(Topic ID: 246329)

3D printing sharing thread.... Lets better the hobby

By hoby1

4 years ago


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#901 2 years ago

I wanted to share a shout out of Heartfelt Thanks to Mr. Tantrum for offering his help, and succeeding with flying colors, in his help with a printed project!

He made it so easy, and supplied printing of exceptional quality, bringing great Joy to me and my family!

#902 2 years ago
Quoted from BrewNinja:

...From your pics, it looks like the prints are failing pretty early on as well, so they shouldn't be too hot yet...

I made the comment above about running some air across the driver FET's to try to keep them cool. I was thinking along the lines of perhaps a less than perfect solder connection on the FET's thermal connection, allowing the part to eventually heat up. Or maybe no thermal pad between the back of the PWB and the case (assuming they use one).

Granted, I think the driver part would outright fail - but who knows. So a simple test would be to run some air across the FET's and see what happens.

#903 2 years ago

The drivers could fail in a way they just don't provide the same hold (voltage), but again, that would be easy to test. You could tell it to pause and see if any of the axis were movable by hand (they shouldn't be), or stick on a DMM and see if its outputting the same voltage. Honestly, I think Oldfart was just venting maybe and not really in search of an answer. There are a lot of simple things to try to figure out what it is. I guess if the company is willing to send a new board, that may fix it. But I feel like its better to know exactly what is wrong instead of shotgunning something if its possible.

#904 2 years ago

Hi everyone! I'm looking to buy a resin 3d printer.. is anyone familiar with the differences between the elegoo models?

For my business I only need a small surface printing area, but since I’m in the market for a printer I’d like one that can also handle some medium size projects (like a light baffle etc.) Any advice on softwares, resins, UV lights etc greatly appreciated- thanks!

#905 2 years ago
Quoted from alyssa:

Hi everyone! I'm looking to buy a resin 3d printer.. is anyone familiar with the differences between the elegoo models?
For my business I only need a small surface printing area, but since I’m in the market for a printer I’d like one that can also handle some medium size projects (like a light baffle etc.) Any advice on softwares, resins, UV lights etc greatly appreciated- thanks!

These are less about specific hardware and more about covering what you need (and how to use it), but here are a couple general resin printing guides that I had saved as reference. Both are good reads:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oSVmJOj3e0xDMEifjiK97duhsr8f5I__/view

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1AR6NY7mEYC_szR-VR3gtrB5rSWMV7LRG

#906 2 years ago

hey guys,

hope you can help me...

I'm looking for a Bracket to Mounting the Pingulp (picure). I would Print it 3D but I don't have a file and I'm not good enough to design me a new one, cause I have problem with the angle.

Would be cool if we can find a design and share it with all

Thank you

RM_PINGULP (resized).jpgRM_PINGULP (resized).jpg
#907 2 years ago
Quoted from MightyGrave:

hey guys,
hope you can help me...
I'm looking for a Bracket to Mounting the Pingulp (picure). I would Print it 3D but I don't have a file and I'm not good enough to design me a new one, cause I have problem with the angle.
Would be cool if we can find a design and share it with all
Thank you[quoted image]

The closest I found is a cup colder with integral bracket.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2268960

#908 2 years ago

I know Popeye is hated by most here, but I like the game play. I designed and printed the lamp cover for the upper playfield. Playing around with integrating the sticker into the print. I'll have a few of these with me at Pinfest along with lamp baffles and Bally pop bumper bases.
BDE4FDD4-BCAB-4ABE-ABC9-499830025413 (resized).jpegBDE4FDD4-BCAB-4ABE-ABC9-499830025413 (resized).jpegE2F380C5-83C0-4E44-B4F8-C8D25A0D2103 (resized).jpegE2F380C5-83C0-4E44-B4F8-C8D25A0D2103 (resized).jpeg

#909 2 years ago
Quoted from yfz450:

I know Popeye is hated by most here, but I like the game play. I designed and printed the lamp cover for the upper playfield. Playing around with integrating the sticker into the print. I'll have a few of these with me at Pinfest along with lamp baffles and Bally pop bumper bases.
[quoted image][quoted image]

You did a great job, that looks great!

#910 2 years ago

Can someone print and sell the below piece? If not can someone provide a model I can print?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=Bookcase+link+arm

#912 2 years ago
Quoted from yfz450:

I know Popeye is hated by most here, but I like the game play. I designed and printed the lamp cover for the upper playfield. Playing around with integrating the sticker into the print. I'll have a few of these with me at Pinfest along with lamp baffles and Bally pop bumper bases.
[quoted image][quoted image]

What Filement did you use?

#913 2 years ago

I commissioned a Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles Blimp. Initially I was thinking I would make a topper with it, but ultimately, I wasn't happy with the results of printing it in pieces. My printer's volume isn't big enough and even though it's a cool model, I think it needs some paint and decals to really look good. Maybe when I have more time to work on it, I can do something with it. If you have a TMNT, check it out: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4918827

Screen Shot 2021-07-27 at 10.27.01 PM (resized).jpgScreen Shot 2021-07-27 at 10.27.01 PM (resized).jpg
#914 2 years ago
Quoted from plasticbugs:

I commissioned a Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles Blimp. Initially I was thinking I would make a topper with it, but ultimately, I wasn't happy with the results of printing it in pieces. My printer's volume isn't big enough and even though it's a cool model, I think it needs some paint and decals to really look good. Maybe when I have more time to work on it, I can do something with it. If you have a TMNT, check it out: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4918827[quoted image]

I am just on the other side of the caldacot. I have a cr10s and might be able to give it a go. FYI, check out The Flipper Room.

#915 2 years ago

Awesome, thanks. Someone was able to print and send me one.

#916 2 years ago

Just joined the 3D printer club though our business owns a half dozen they’re always busy. My partner also does all the engineering and I just ohh and ahh so it’s good to get some real hands on time on one. Picked up the new Anycubic Vyper for $359. The build and setup was dead simple. Auto leveling bed is a huge plus and prints so far looks fantastic.

B2EC73ED-081D-4349-AA09-BA1CC045B6CA (resized).jpegB2EC73ED-081D-4349-AA09-BA1CC045B6CA (resized).jpegC107F236-044A-4D78-8DB8-6E00C17D8013 (resized).jpegC107F236-044A-4D78-8DB8-6E00C17D8013 (resized).jpeg

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#917 2 years ago

That lookS verry nice ! Now have fun printing all the shit you don’t need but just want to print haha

#918 2 years ago

How do I go about paying someone to 3D print Pinball parts for me? I know I can probably pay someone locally to do it who isn't into Pinball and they'd do a one off and probably never make another unless it was for me. I figure if I can pay a pinsider to do one they can save the file and print and sell more to others. Can I pay someone here to print me a part? I'm looking for a drop target for an allied leisure cocktail pin. I know there are other people looking for these and if someone would print the plastic pop bumper rings apparently people need those as well. Please message me if you offer printing services or can recommend a Pinball enthusiaist who does. I can supply a sample of the part I need.

#919 2 years ago

Picked this up off Facebook yesterday for $60 with 4 rolls of PLA+. I think I did pretty good for my first printer. If I like it I am going to buy a good one.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#920 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinbub:

How do I go about paying someone to 3D print Pinball parts for me? I know I can probably pay someone locally to do it who isn't into Pinball and they'd do a one off and probably never make another unless it was for me. I figure if I can pay a pinsider to do one they can save the file and print and sell more to others. Can I pay someone here to print me a part? I'm looking for a drop target for an allied leisure cocktail pin. I know there are other people looking for these and if someone would print the plastic pop bumper rings apparently people need those as well. Please message me if you offer printing services or can recommend a Pinball enthusiaist who does. I can supply a sample of the part I need.

You are asking two things:

1. Someone needs to design a part as a 3D model
2. Someone needs to print a part from a 3D model

The first question is tougher as designing ANY part is time consuming. You'll need to find someone with time on their hands, or someone with the same need for the same part. They need to create the 3D model, with exact dimensions, which takes a fair bit of time and usually requires access to the original part to get it right. Good that you have an old one to get the designer started. They essentially are copying the physical part into a 3D model with some kind of CAD 3D drawing tool. My guess is several hours to copy a simple part, or longer for one with lots of detail.

For the second question, try https://craftcloud3d.com/
Once you have the 3D model, it's easy to print it. Today, many 3D printing shops are low cost, and from time to time have free shipping. It's basically a clearing house for 3D printing shops. I have used a few times with great results. You can choose the color, material and which location you want it printed from. (hint: consider choosing one close to you)

#921 2 years ago
Quoted from BowlingJim:

Picked this up off Facebook yesterday for $60 with 4 rolls of PLA+. I think I did pretty good for my first printer. If I like it I am going to buy a good one.
[quoted image]

The rolls of material alone are worth the > $60!! You did good, even if the printer is dead!

#922 2 years ago
Quoted from BowlingJim:

Picked this up off Facebook yesterday for $60 with 4 rolls of PLA+. I think I did pretty good for my first printer. If I like it I am going to buy a good one.
[quoted image]

A good score! That Monoprice Select Mini goes for just under $200 on Amazon. It's a good starter printer, and there are lots of online resources from other users sharing their experiences with it. I used one for a couple of months, but outgrew it pretty quickly. It's become a standby unit for small builds since I got my Prusa.

#923 2 years ago

The vyper is FANTASTIC.

You made an excellent choice.

Quoted from Kevin_LHeureux:

Picked up the new Anycubic Vyper for $359

#924 2 years ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

The rolls of material alone are worth the > $60!! You did good, even if the printer is dead!

It seems to work great I am on my second print of the morning.

#925 2 years ago
Quoted from BowlingJim:

Picked this up off Facebook yesterday for $60 with 4 rolls of PLA+. I think I did pretty good for my first printer. If I like it I am going to buy a good one.
[quoted image]

Congrats on a great deal!

One thing I'd like to point out (and I'm not familiar w/the Monoprice other than when I considered it for my first printer) - see if it has thermal runaway protection. And if it does, make sure it's turned on. Maybe someone can chime in that owns one.

Thermal runaway is when the hotend thermistor fails and the printer then thinks the hotend isn't hot enough, resulting in the heater power being continuously applied. Worst case result is it could start a fire.

#926 2 years ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

see if it has thermal runaway protection.

Judging from the build plate, he has a v2 MP Select Mini. It may have thermal runaway protection (I think from version 40 firmware and later.)

Monoprice does not support user upgraded firmware, but you can find downloads and instructions here:
https://mpselectmini.com/firmware/motion_controller

#927 2 years ago

Anyone out there happen to have a 3d print file for a classic Stern start button?

#928 2 years ago

Hey thought I'd share my score covers for TNA, they help to hide the display when the machine is off and also allow you to change the colour of the display.

I've been using these for about a year now and they're solid, they sit nicely against the display and haven't moved since installing them.

I printed mine in purple to fit in with the colours on the backglass.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4927475

I've also got ports for the TNA sub, you can either add the ports or plug them or port one hole and plug the other. I also recommend removing one of the outputs on the amp (it has 2 sub outputs) this opens up the sweet spot a little more for tuning.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3309874

7d8760aabd8dc8819d30c4194b09d7b5_preview_featured (resized).jpeg7d8760aabd8dc8819d30c4194b09d7b5_preview_featured (resized).jpegPhoto 8-8-21, 12 12 51 pm (resized).jpgPhoto 8-8-21, 12 12 51 pm (resized).jpg
#929 2 years ago

made some more inserts and also some brackets for ws2811 leds, you can find them on my thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/meesterpieter/designs

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#930 2 years ago

Anyone know of someone that likes to paint 3D parts. Someone that enjoys painting details.

I have about 20-30 parts about the size of a thumb. Of course I would pay for the help.

Just don’t enjoy this part.

Any leads would be appreciated.

#931 2 years ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

Anyone know of someone that likes to paint 3D parts. Someone that enjoys painting details.
I have about 20-30 parts about the size of a thumb. Of course I would pay for the help.
Just don’t enjoy this part.
Any leads would be appreciated.

Consider making a 3d printed mask (thin) negative of the part your painting with that area subtracted. Snap it on and just dust with spray paint. Simple and pretty accurate.

#932 2 years ago

I’m looking to pick up a 3d printer and am looking for suggestions in and around the $1000 range.

Thanks in advance

#933 2 years ago
Quoted from Lopa:

I’m looking to pick up a 3d printer and am looking for suggestions in and around the $1000 range.
Thanks in advance

Prusa I3 MK3S+ is my vote.

#934 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Prusa I3 MK3S+ is my vote.

Seconded

#935 2 years ago

That was my assumption but I wasn’t sure if I was overlooking something.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Prusa I3 MK3S+ is my vote.

#936 2 years ago

Anycubic vyper.

The MK3 is the most popular opinion for newbs because it has a reputation for just working.

With all the features on the vyper, it’s in line with the MK3. It just works, but it also has more features.

What isn’t equal is support. Prussa has much better support. But at $369, you can either buy two of them for the kit price, or three of them for the fully built price.

Don’t spend $1k on your first 3D printer. The vyper just works. If you have any issues with it, you can PM me and I’ll do my best to help out. It’s a new printer, it’s very very good.

Quoted from Lopa:

I’m looking to pick up a 3d printer and am looking for suggestions in and around the $1000 range.
Thanks in advance

#937 2 years ago
Quoted from Lopa:

I’m looking to pick up a 3d printer and am looking for suggestions in and around the $1000 range.
Thanks in advance

We run the ender-3, have four of them running almost non stop. Occasional clog and releveling, but these have been workhorses. We’ve upgraded things like the fans and bed overlay, which are cheap, and a few other parts, highly recommend as a first printer. Tons of you tube videos to help out too. I think we’ve paid as low as $164 and as high as a little over $200 for them. Looks like it’s currently about $175.

#938 2 years ago
Quoted from Lopa:

I’m looking to pick up a 3d printer and am looking for suggestions in and around the $1000 range.
Thanks in advance

I guess a basic question is: have you ever done 3D printing before? Even to those of hs with a few years under our belts, there can be frustrations. It’s VERY important to find the Pinside equivalent of your particular printer. Facebook groups for example. The companies Will provide support (some far better than others) but the community often responds faster and with more detail. As always YMMV

#939 2 years ago

There are a multitude of Prusa clones on the market that incorporate Prusa developed technologies (e.g. auto-bed leveling, resume on power loss, filament layer changing in prints, sprint steel print surface (flat and textured), etc. Some of these clones are not so good, but some are very good. Just make sure you do your research before purchasing any 3D printer. I can't speak for others, but if you want a printer that is guaranteed to work, be reliable, have excellent tech support, etc. then Prusa is an excellent choice. If you are more budget conscious then you can find very good printers at a fraction of the cost.

Also, I forgot to mention that one of my favorite features of the Prusa is that it supports WiFi enabled SD cards. If you are not aware, 3D printers require a constant connection to a computer that is always on while printing (what could ever go wrong?) or they use some type of memory card (typically SD). What a WiFi enabled card allows you to do is connect it to your local network. Now you can map the WiFi card as a drive on your PC and easily transfer files to and from the card via WiFi with no physical connection and not having to constantly move the SD card to and from your printer/computer to copy/delete gcode files.

Also, one of the key critical pieces than 3D newbies overlook is the slicer software. Prusa was not always the best when they utilized Slic3r. However, they purchased the software a couple of years ago and their development on it has been superb. I was an avid Cura user when I first bought my Prusa and the 3 other 3D printers I used before then. I was slow to adopt Prusa Slicer, but now I wouln't use anything else for a multitude of reasons. Good news is that Prusa Slicer is free to all, and you can use it with any brand of 3D printer (it just won't have all of the default optimizations like it does for the Prusa brand printers).

#940 2 years ago
Quoted from Lopa:

I’m looking to pick up a 3d printer and am looking for suggestions in and around the $1000 range.
Thanks in advance

Hard to go wrong with Ender 3, it is the leader in sales volume, low price, performance per dollar, and retail availability of parts in the USA at Micro Center. Not the greatest build quality, but you can buy two and keep both of them running most of the time. Good choice if you just want to dabble without a big investment.

But I'm still going to say Prusa MK3S+, no contest. The price looks out of line with the Creality lineup until you see they use name brand bearings, belts, and even connectors, instead of price conscious imitations. Hardened machine rods for alignment instead of Delrin rollers on the frame. Auto bed leveling and magnetic PEI sheet, which should be minimum standard features, not upgrades. After 4 years of MK3 production, they are still maintaining and improving the firmware. Prusa is committed to an upgrade kit to the next model (if that's important to you), just like the last 5 in the series.

Ender is the Wal-Mart Black and Decker special that will get you through projects. Prusa is the DeWalt or Milwaukee. I saved up for the better 3D printer, and I am glad I did.

Another recommendation for PrusaSlicer; it is shaping up to be an industry leading slicer, and comes with both Creality and Prusa printer profiles.

#941 2 years ago

I have a question for you guys, I'm thinking about getting a 3d printer, but am wondering about the fumes and smell they give off. I know the resin printers are bad, but I'm looking at getting a filament printer. I see some are enclosed and some are open, is one better then the other? Could i use it in the spare bedroom, or would it have to be used in the garage?

I read a lot of reviews talking about the Ender 3, or Voxelab Aquila being good, and of courses prusa Mk3s being top of the line, but I also saw that prusa also makes a mini, Does anybody have any experience with it? Thanks for any help in advance, especially on the smell issue, that is what's making me be hesitant on buying one.

#942 2 years ago

Hammerhead1550

Both the prusa mini and and the 3s are perfect machines for what you need. A enclosed printer is most of the time better as it has less temperature swings, But is a bit bigger .

I have about 5 printers in 1 room and to be honest the smell is almost none . Also most enclosed printers have a filter to get all the particles out the air. My suggestion is . Start off with let’s say a prusa mini/ender and try the printing. The reason is I say get a prusa/ ender is those do all you need almost right out of the box. If you get a unknow brand or cheap thingy. The adjustment part and bad prints can really get to you to bail on this verry quick.

#943 2 years ago

I do know one person who won't own a 3d printer because they think PLA is toxic. Of course, everything is relative. Anything and everything is technically a little bit toxic. When you get a printer, just don't freak out from the smell, most printers smell the first print or even two or three, but that goes away.

I just recommended it, but the Anycubic Vyper is by far the best beginner 3d printer out there. The main thing it does better than any of the Creality stuff like the Ender 3 is that it has auto bed leveling that really works. It sounds so easy, but leveling your bed is by far the biggest pain for people new to 3d printing.

The Prusa MK3 has less features and is $600 more, but you get really good support. The Vyper just works, 4 screws and a few plugs to assemble, real auto bed leveling, and is very reasonably priced. Prusa gets big money for support because nobody else really offers it. If you get a defective part in your Vyper, you will be expected to troubleshoot, they will send you a new part, but you will be expected to know how to install it.

Quoted from Hammerhead1550:

but am wondering about the fumes

#944 2 years ago
Quoted from jalpert:

I do know one person who won't own a 3d printer because they think PLA is toxic. Of course, everything is relative. Anything and everything is technically a little bit toxic. When you get a printer, just don't freak out from the smell, most printers smell the first print or even two or three, but that goes away.
I just recommended it, but the Anycubic Vyper is by far the best beginner 3d printer out there. The main thing it does better than any of the Creality stuff like the Ender 3 is that it has auto bed leveling that really works. It sounds so easy, but leveling your bed is by far the biggest pain for people new to 3d printing.
The Prusa MK3 has less features and is $600 more, but you get really good support. The Vyper just works, 4 screws and a few plugs to assemble, real auto bed leveling, and is very reasonably priced. Prusa gets big money for support because nobody else really offers it. If you get a defective part in your Vyper, you will be expected to troubleshoot, they will send you a new part, but you will be expected to know how to install it.

Yep, all of the filaments are toxic . ABS is apparently the highest emissions, and therefore more dangerous, but I just read on Forbes that technically PLA is the most toxic! However, since it doesn't really give off much in terms of emissions, unless you are *eating* it, you should be ok. PETG is similar in terms of emissions to PLA.

#945 2 years ago

I went with the Ender3 v2 (with BLtouch auto-leveling sensor) for my first (and only) printer and I'm very happy with my choice. Load up the current jyers firmware and it has been very reliable and performs well. This is the only printer I have ever used so I can't comment on others. I see these go on sale occasionally for about $220, and plan to spend another $40-50 on the BLtouch which is easily installed.

#946 2 years ago

I really have gotten my money's worth out of my Prusa MK3S, and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it, with some caveats.

The cable management is kinda brute force, just a simple wrap and zip tied to the extruder and electronics box. The movement has worn through my heater wires twice. Replacing it requires completely disassembling the cabling harness.

The hotend is a pain to get to if you have a clog.

The wifi SD is a workaround, and mine rarely works. I've added a pi running Octoprint to give me network access for dropping files on it.

That said, it's far better than the Maker Select I had previously. I wouldn't wish that thing on anyone.

I'm building a Voron 2.4 now, and I have high hopes for it. It addresses all the complaints I have about the Prusa. It is certainly not cheap, though.

#947 2 years ago
Quoted from LateCenturyMods:

Hard to go wrong with Ender 3, it is the leader in sales volume, low price, performance per dollar, and retail availability of parts in the USA at Micro Center. Not the greatest build quality, but you can buy two and keep both of them running most of the time. Good choice if you just want to dabble without a big investment.
But I'm still going to say Prusa MK3S+, no contest. The price looks out of line with the Creality lineup until you see they use name brand bearings, belts, and even connectors, instead of price conscious imitations. Hardened machine rods for alignment instead of Delrin rollers on the frame. Auto bed leveling and magnetic PEI sheet, which should be minimum standard features, not upgrades. After 4 years of MK3 production, they are still maintaining and improving the firmware. Prusa is committed to an upgrade kit to the next model (if that's important to you), just like the last 5 in the series.
Ender is the Wal-Mart Black and Decker special that will get you through projects. Prusa is the DeWalt or Milwaukee. I saved up for the better 3D printer, and I am glad I did.
Another recommendation for PrusaSlicer; it is shaping up to be an industry leading slicer, and comes with both Creality and Prusa printer profiles.

You are doing a VERY big dis-service to the ender 3. Keeping it running most of the time? I have an original ender 3 and put I have no idea how many thousands of hours on it. I added a few mods (that are now standard) to help out (like belt tensioners and heavier bed springs). But other than that, I have added/changed nothing. The heavier bed springs help the bed stay leveled by not letting the wheels turn as easy. I haven't leveled my bed in probably 2 years. I also cut a mirror to use as a build plate (the 1st run build plate material was pretty terrible). Other than that, I can run circles around what most other people can print. The thing about 3d printing is the quality of the print is directly proportional to the operator. You need to take time to understand what your slicer settings are doing, and how the nozzle prints, etc. I had a buddy who got a Prusa MKS3 and broke one of the pieces. He asked me to print him a new one to get it back up. When I gave it to him, he was shocked at how nice it looked off of a "crappy" ender 3.

Honestly, to any beginner who wants to get their feet wet, the Ender 3 is the perfect first printer. Its inexpensive and can give phenomenal quality prints. Its a great printer to learn on and see if you even like it.

#948 2 years ago

Attention Star Wars Fans! Here is your chance to own a truly one-of-a-kind Star Wars Han Solo DL- 44 Blaster Replica. Highly detailed. This is a 3d printed model that has been hand sanded, painted, and weathered with excrutiating dcetail. This blaster is worthy of the most impressive mantles or display cases (maybe a topper?).

This looks like the real deal, must see in person to believe.

50% of the proceeds are going to Dolphin Project: https://www.dolphinproject.com/

ebay.com link: itm

totan-167 (resized).jpgtotan-167 (resized).jpgtotan-172 (resized).jpgtotan-172 (resized).jpg
#949 2 years ago

Does anyone have the Lauren Belle model for Maverick ?

#950 2 years ago

You guys that are running 5+ 3D printers all day every day: What are you printing? Curious who is actually out there making money with these things.

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$ 12.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
UpKick Pinball
Toys/Add-ons
7,450
Machine - For Sale
Orange, CA
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
Shooter rods
$ 49.99
From: $ 8.99
Cabinet - Other
NO GOUGE PINBALL™
Other
$ 95.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Pinball Mod Co.
Sound/Speakers
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
Shooter rods
3,195
Machine - For Sale
Livermore, CA
From: $ 8.00
Cabinet - Other
NO GOUGE PINBALL™
Other
$ 10.00
Playfield - Protection
UpKick Pinball
Protection
From: $ 17.99
$ 15.00
Playfield - Other
RobTune
Other
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
Shooter rods
From: $ 3.50
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
Other
$ 2.50
Lighting - Led
Pinballrom
Led
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
Shooter rods
$ 10.00
Playfield - Protection
UpKick Pinball
Protection
$ 69.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Pimp
Decorations
$ 44.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Pinball Shark
Shooter rods
$ 15.00
Playfield - Decals
Metal-Mods
Decals
$ 35.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
Eproms
$ 27.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
Eproms
$ 15.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
RobTune
Toys/Add-ons
$ 15.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Gweem's Mods
Sound/Speakers
$ 53.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
Eproms
$ 20.00
Cabinet - Decals
Pinball Haus
Decals
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
San Francisco, CA
$ 35.00
Cabinet - Other
Rocket City Pinball
Other
$ 12.50
Lighting - Led
RoyGBev Pinball
Led
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