(Topic ID: 246329)

3D printing sharing thread.... Lets better the hobby

By hoby1

4 years ago


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There are 6,472 posts in this topic. You are on page 18 of 130.
#851 2 years ago
Quoted from mikepmcs:

Here's my direct fit replacement for the captive ball plastic (-04) on Willy Wonka Pinball. JJP was happy to send me a new one but it was going to cost $9 to ship it. I made one while I was thinking about the shipping cost until I remembered they owed me some new drones for my Dialed In so I paid the shipping at that point. Wouldn't have made sense otherwise for 20 cents worth of plastic.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4679354
[quoted image]

Does anyone have a pic of where to place the replacement piece that would have come from JJP? Barry sent me a replacement piece but I don't know where to put it. Will reach out to him but typically can get a quicker response on here(no knock on Barry, just faster sometimes on here). The 3d printed piece you created looks slightly different in thickness. Based on what I can tell, even replacing the -04 piece won't stop the captive ball from getting hung up because mine seems to get stuck further back in the channel. Thanks in advance for your insights.

#852 2 years ago

Any tips on printing with TPU? I can't finish a print without it messing up.

#853 2 years ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

I shared a first pass version in an earlier post. I think I'm done. A little 3D printed, a little bit from Walmart (plants, fence wire), and a little bit from Michaels (Raptor). Just slips over the original flat plastic raptor.
Stern JP Pro:
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That’s bad ass!!

#854 2 years ago
Quoted from marioparty34:

Any tips on printing with TPU? I can't finish a print without it messing up.

Filament drive gear needs to be loosened compared to regular plastics. I'm new to TPU and I'm finding it rather stringy. What's your machine doing?

#855 2 years ago
Quoted from marioparty34:

Any tips on printing with TPU? I can't finish a print without it messing up.

you have to print really slow, turn off retractions, hard to do with bowden extruders, sticks to the bed so shouldn't have any first layer issues (sticks too well sometimes...)

what kind of failures are you seeing and with which printer?

#856 2 years ago

Lots of good deals with Prime day today. Got a filament dryer, BLTouch, and a metric hardware kit

#857 2 years ago
Quoted from LateCenturyMods:

Filament drive gear needs to be loosened compared to regular plastics. I'm new to TPU and I'm finding it rather stringy. What's your machine doing?

Quoted from RobF:

you have to print really slow, turn off retractions, hard to do with bowden extruders, sticks to the bed so shouldn't have any first layer issues (sticks too well sometimes...)
what kind of failures are you seeing and with which printer?

The first layer is good. But when I come back a few hours later, it's just crazy stringy. It's like a T-1000 getting shot.

I will try to print slower and turn off retractions and see if that is any better. I am not having any issues with the bed.

Thanks for the input. Stay tuned!

#858 2 years ago
Quoted from marioparty34:

The first layer is good. But when I come back a few hours later, it's just crazy stringy. It's like a T-1000 getting shot.
I will try to print slower and turn off retractions and see if that is any better. I am not having any issues with the bed.
Thanks for the input. Stay tuned!

I would suggest to start with 1/2 or 1/3 typical speed and once you get it to consistent, dial it up slowly until you find the reasonable max. I am a big fan of TPU. The layer bonds are super strong and the prints come out near indestructible. Also note, that different formulations yield different durometer (harness) values, so you can find some variability in how flexible the end results are.

#859 2 years ago

Sorry if this is a repeat but pertaining to the Prime deals today. Any recommendations on a 3D Printer purchase to include any of the basic items to get started + mitigate potential issues?

Novice w/ decent amount of model design experience looking to learn to print. In addition, have two kids that would like to get involved which have had some basic use at school.

Maybe two price point options / packages, entry $ to recommended $ please?

Thanks for your time.

https://www.amazon.com/s

#860 2 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

Lots of good deals with Prime day today. Got a filament dryer, BLTouch, and a metric hardware kit

What deal did you get on a bltouch? I didn’t see any cheap ones. Might grab one to play with instead of cobbling inductive sensors together.

#861 2 years ago
Quoted from slicknick13:

What deal did you get on a bltouch? I didn’t see any cheap ones. Might grab one to play with instead of cobbling inductive sensors together.

$40. Be careful, there are a lot of knockoffs on eBay and such, be sure you are getting a genuine v3.1 BLtouch. I installed it last night with the Jyers firmware on my E3v2, took about 10 minutes. The bed level map is pretty sick. I thought it was a little unnecessary as I was already pleased with my prints but the bench and few first test prints have really blown me away.

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#862 2 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

$40. Be careful, there are a lot of knockoffs on eBay and such, be sure you are getting a genuine v3.1 BLtouch. I installed it last night with the Jyers firmware on my E3v2, took about 10 minutes. The bed level map is pretty sick. I thought it was a little unnecessary as I was already pleased with my prints but the bench and few first test prints have really blown me away.
[quoted image]

I will have to give that jyers firmware a shot! I'm still using the Smith3D firmware since I got my v2 a few months ago and it works well, but it doesn't have the bed level map and I'm sure other features.

#863 2 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

I will have to give that jyers firmware a shot! I'm still using the Smith3D firmware since I got my v2 a few months ago and it works well, but it doesn't have the bed level map and I'm sure other features.

Same, I like that map. I use inductive sensors for leveling but I have to use the BLTouch for my new bed since it has magnets and will screw it all up. Plus it seems to me that the touch sensors are congealing as the winner of the z end stop wars.

Even though you do auto level, it’s still important to have your bed leveled and axes trammed, a nice map would help.

#864 2 years ago
Quoted from slicknick13:

Same, I like that map. I use inductive sensors for leveling but I have to use the BLTouch for my new bed since it has magnets and will screw it all up. Plus it seems to me that the touch sensors are congealing as the winner of the z end stop wars...

It seems like more vendors are incorporating the hooks in their motherboard for almost a 'plug and play' implementation of the BLTouch.

I think one other reason BLTouch might be pulling ahead is the use of third party build plates (i.e. glass) that set on top of the vendors build plate. Just a guess, but I would assume the farther the inductor sensor is away from the actual metal build plate - the more the inductive sensor struggles.

I have a BLTouch, is rather cool to see it map the build plate.

14
#865 2 years ago

Made a small side project, i used the cap, body and ring from thingiverse
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2748623

Made the rest myself, and put some rgb leds inside.

IMG_20210622_143807.jpgIMG_20210622_143807.jpgIMG_20210626_104703_2483393994932.jpgIMG_20210626_104703_2483393994932.jpgIMG_20210626_104823.jpgIMG_20210626_104823.jpgIMG_20210626_104904.jpgIMG_20210626_104904.jpgIMG_20210626_105157.jpgIMG_20210626_105157.jpg
#866 2 years ago

3D printing ... getting more intriguing.
Can anyone print the trigger button for the Demolition Man handles?
Marco is out of stock but the description says that it exists.
Thanks

#867 2 years ago

Is there an index with listed items or games for this thread?

I think that would be incredibly helpful.

#868 2 years ago

Anyone would have designed a holder for small size fans to cool the coils (especially useful for those pinball machines where the flipper coils get hot and lose in power) ?

Cheers

#869 2 years ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

Anyone would have designed a holder for small size fans to cool the coils (especially useful for those pinball machines where the flipper coils get hot and lose in power) ?
Cheers

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4715685

#870 2 years ago
Quoted from WannaPinball:

3D printing ... getting more intriguing.
Can anyone print the trigger button for the Demolition Man handles?
Marco is out of stock but the description says that it exists.
Thanks

It's available here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4213398
I printed one to see how it comes out. Send me a pm and I can get you a set.
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#871 2 years ago

I’ve got these on my Guns N’ Roses. No nonsense, works great.

#872 2 years ago

Servo holder JJP GnR is now also available

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4898252

Greetings Peter

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#873 2 years ago

recreated some inserts for my prototype playfield:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4894398

i dont have any spare originals so im not yet sure if the fitment is 100% but with the dimensions i could find i think theyre pretty close

2021-06-25 10.28.36 (resized).jpg2021-06-25 10.28.36 (resized).jpg
#874 2 years ago

While I am not new to 3D fabrication, it has been at least 8 years since Ive paid attention to it.

In an off topic question, I wish to purchase an existing stl file, and have someone print it for me to assemble.

In the Past, it was shapeways, and a few others to upload the file and get a quote.

I was wondering today if there are any new recommendations for quality and cost effectiveness, or there was anyone here
interested in providing the service and print, to be paid for, of course.

I havent purchased the file yet, found here:
https://www.etsy.com/shop/CrypticPuzzles

But this is a pic of the final print....lots of individual pieces, but I imagine they have been optimized/grouped for printing already.

If successful, its possible Id like to print more.

Immediate small info found "If printing with 20% infill, 0.4mm nozzle, 2 proximity wall, 4 top and bottom layers like the instruction says, 1KG of filament is cutting it really close."

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#875 2 years ago

Thats going to be an expensive print no matter what way you slice it. 1kg of filament plus all that time (probably a few days of print time if it all goes well by looking at it). Without having the files to slice everything, its going to be hard to get any estimates as well.

#876 2 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

While I am not new to 3D fabrication, it has been at least 8 years since Ive paid attention to it.
In an off topic question, I wish to purchase an existing stl file, and have someone print it for me to assemble.
In the Past, it was shapeways, and a few others to upload the file and get a quote.
I was wondering today if there are any new recommendations for quality and cost effectiveness, or there was anyone here
interested in providing the service and print, to be paid for, of course.
I havent purchased the file yet, found here:
https://www.etsy.com/shop/CrypticPuzzles
But this is a pic of the final print....lots of individual pieces, but I imagine they have been optimized/grouped for printing already.
If successful, its possible Id like to print more.
Immediate small info found "If printing with 20% infill, 0.4mm nozzle, 2 proximity wall, 4 top and bottom layers like the instruction says, 1KG of filament is cutting it really close."
[quoted image]

You need to buy the file and after that you can download for free let’s say prusa slicer

Put in all the files . And with the specs you need and count all the time the slicer program tells you. Then it’s easy r to see if someone is willing to do that and what the costs are

#877 2 years ago
Quoted from AMSNL:

You need to buy the file and after that you can download for free let’s say prusa slicer
Put in all the files . And with the specs you need and count all the time the slicer program tells you. Then it’s easy r to see if someone is willing to do that and what the costs are

I'll add to this that Cura is a well known free slicer program as well. The quoted specs look like the default standard quality settings, so just slice it up and see what sort of time you're looking at.

1kg of PLA retails for about $20, give or take depending on what it is. Personally I search for sales and pay about $10-12/kg.

#878 2 years ago

Thank you all.

A Fellow Pinsider has reached out, and has the files, and offered to help.
Very grateful to all.

Thanks for letting me interrupt the thread.

Art

#879 2 years ago

Awsome!

#880 2 years ago

I just tried to log into thingiverse and got a message that my account is locked for moderation. Has anyone else ever gotten this? Who did you have to contact? I've never received any emails from them and all of my designs are still up so I'm not sure what they are moderating.
ThingiverseModeration (resized).pngThingiverseModeration (resized).png

#881 2 years ago
Quoted from latenite04:

I just tried to log into thingiverse and got a message that my account is locked for moderation.

I just tried to log in and got the same error. I haven't posted anything in months, so hopefully this is just a bug on their side...

#882 2 years ago
Quoted from waveman:

I just tried to log in and got the same error. I haven't posted anything in months, so hopefully this is just a bug on their side...

That's kind of what I'm thinking, thanks for the reply.

#883 2 years ago
Quoted from latenite04:

I just tried to log into thingiverse and got a message that my account is locked for moderation. Has anyone else ever gotten this? Who did you have to contact? I've never received any emails from them and all of my designs are still up so I'm not sure what they are moderating.
[quoted image]

Thingiverse is an under-funded, string-and-chewing-gum type of situation. This stuff happens once in a while - I’m sure it is a bug and will be fixed.

#884 2 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I’m sure it is a bug and will be fixed.

I just tried and it seems to be fixed already

#885 2 years ago

I'm all good as well. I've seen plenty of errors with that site but usually they are the garden variety 404/timeout, not the kiss your account goodbye type.

Sorry for everyone who saw the new post count so here's something pinball and 3d printing related:
Soulrider911 did a great mini model of a pin cabinet and I modified the base to hold my keys with the playfield as a keychain.

featured_preview_20210704_004838 (resized).jpgfeatured_preview_20210704_004838 (resized).jpg
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4899491

#887 2 years ago

I don't know why, but the arcade guys make 3D models of EVERY cabinet.
Thinking it could be a fun print/paint project
https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/ua0590137-53b7-475c-841e-f96a47124e99/Blaster-Duramold-arcade-game

#888 2 years ago

I'm having a problem printing and was hoping someone has ideas. In May I build a large scale printer (Tronxy x5as). This is a core xy printer. I am gettig shifting when I print. The
X and Y axis belts are tight and have tensioners. I've tried slicing with Cura 4.10 and 4.9.1. I have used these stls before and they printed fine. Print bed adhesion is also not a problem.

20210709_153033 (resized).jpg20210709_153033 (resized).jpg
#889 2 years ago
Quoted from Oldfart:

I'm having a problem printing and was hoping someone has ideas. In May I build a large scale printer (Tronxy x5as). This is a core xy printer. I am gettig shifting when I print. The
X and Y axis belts are tight and have tensioners. I've tried slicing with Cura 4.10 and 4.9.1. I have used these stls before and they printed fine. Print bed adhesion is also not a problem.
[quoted image]

I had a problem with shifting on my prusa once, it was a firmware problem. Short time solution was exporting the files again and sliced new. That worked sometimes. But Firmware update solved the problem completely.

#890 2 years ago
Quoted from stefanmader:

I had a problem with shifting on my prusa once, it was a firmware problem. Short time solution was exporting the files again and sliced new. That worked sometimes. But Firmware update solved the problem completely.

Good comment stef.

OP - Are you running Marlin for the firmware? Can't say I've seen that. Does it happen 100% of the time, same layer?

#891 2 years ago

Are you using Octoprint? If so, which plugins? There is a known issue with one of the popular ones that causes shifting for some people. I spent a long time trying to figure that out. Removed the plugin and it worked fine after that.

#892 2 years ago
Quoted from Oldfart:

I'm having a problem printing and was hoping someone has ideas. In May I build a large scale printer (Tronxy x5as). This is a core xy printer. I am gettig shifting when I print. The
X and Y axis belts are tight and have tensioners. I've tried slicing with Cura 4.10 and 4.9.1. I have used these stls before and they printed fine. Print bed adhesion is also not a problem.
[quoted image]

Just a suggestion guess but I would try Really slowing that print down. Only time I ever had that happen was on a cheap printer we tried years ago going to fast over drove the servos and would do this. Slowing it way down stopped the problem till we just threw the crap printer in the dump.

#893 2 years ago

I had a problem with my jerk settings in the slicer that needed to be turned down when I was getting layer shift like that

#894 2 years ago

Thanks for all the suggestions. I've made dozens of prints with this printer including some very large ones. Nothing has changed,same settings, same filament, same everything. Tech support suggested I adjust the pots on the control board thinking the voltage is off. I think the board has failed and I will keep you posted on what happens.

#895 2 years ago
Quoted from Oldfart:

Thanks for all the suggestions. I've made dozens of prints with this printer including some very large ones. Nothing has changed,same settings, same filament, same everything. Tech support suggested I adjust the pots on the control board thinking the voltage is off. I think the board has failed and I will keep you posted on what happens.

I sure hope you have a DMM that you can test it with before you just start adjusting the pots. Its really easy to see if they are right or not. Adjusting them without a DMM could be really really bad.

#896 2 years ago

I have 3 of them, 2 of whick are made by Fluke. I was a certified printer tech for 18 years.

#897 2 years ago

Update, I checked the pots and they were good. I swapped the X and Y steppers and it still shifted on the Y axis. Tech support thinks the Y driver chip has failed and will send a new board from China. I think it failed because I do large prints (up to four days) and there are no heatsinks on these chips. The new board will get them and an extra fan. It might be worth checking if your printer has them. I think it would be a cheap investment to help keep the chips cooler.

#898 2 years ago
Quoted from Oldfart:

Update, I checked the pots and they were good. I swapped the X and Y steppers and it still shifted on the Y axis. Tech support thinks the Y driver chip has failed and will send a new board from China. I think it failed because I do large prints (up to four days) and there are no heatsinks on these chips. The new board will get them and an extra fan. It might be worth checking if your printer has them. I think it would be a cheap investment to help keep the chips cooler.

You could always place a small fan nearby and run some air across the driver chip. Might not give a definitive answer, but a simple test that might help point to a thermal issue.

#899 2 years ago

That doesn't make sense either. Either they work or don't. If they work when you do movement tests, then they should be fine. From your pics, it looks like the prints are failing pretty early on as well, so they shouldn't be too hot yet. Does this happen on every print? You never answered, are you using Octoprint? Have you tried (or maybe you are) printing directly from the SD card? Have you tried a different SD card? Do you happen to have an old gcode file that worked previously that you could try to reprint?

#900 2 years ago

There aren't many likely things that can cause layer shifting, I know you said you checked your belts, how are you verifying they are good? Do you have other printers that work that you can compare the belt tension to and then go a little tighter? Are you 100% sure the belts are tight enough?

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