That looks great, especially knowing how the camera brings out all of the detail in 3D prints.

Wondering if anyone in here owns a JJP guns and roses and can make the linkage that goes on the spotlight servos for the up and down motion. These are prone to breaking and servos are easy to find on the internet, but the linkages however are not

Back from the in-house paint shop.

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I probably could if I had access to a GnR to take measurements. They are selling into private collections like crazy here is the SF Bay Area

The spot it breaks is circled. I tried to super glue it but it failed

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Besides doing a 3D printed part...try some epoxy maybe?

Yes thanks. I’ll try some jb weld.

JB Weld makes a version that is rather strong. I've used it, but I looked their web page but wasn't sure which one I used.

Looks like the slower cure time products have a higher strength than the quicker setting ones. You could maybe reinforce with some metal too.

Might have been this one:
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Perfect thanks. I will give that a try

Yes you rock! Exactly what I was thinking. Saved me a ton of time.

I wonder if you could also use one of those kits that has the fiberglass bonded with resin. Perhaps just a thin piece of fiberglass pressed on that area would reinforce it and make it rock solid for the future.

I’ve used them to fix and reinforce opaque ramps that are cracked, and the file cabinet bash toy on X Files. It works well. Not sure if it would add too much thickness to that spot on the servo linkage though.

I’ll look into that thanks. I appreciate the advice guys!

That's sounds like a really good idea. I was thinking along the lines of some thin sheet metal, like what they use for HVAC.

This is the stuff I used:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y5R9UA0/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_7JYSFVWWM7VTNFG5SRX3

I was actually just looking at that! I tried the jb weld. We’ll see. I am having a hard time keeping the pieces together while is sets

I haven't used this yet but I use Smooth On's other products for reproducing parts using silicone molds and casting resins. XTC-3D is their two-part product for smoothing and finishing 3D prints and can be colored...

https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/xtc-3d/

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That's interesting. Wonder if you can use this w/o sanding? Some of my 3D prints have small details, would be hard to sand all the nooks and crannies.

Any issues if you paint (i.e. bleeding thru)?

I created that.
Part 2 is easier to print and works

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4854563

Wow thanks!! I have a buddy that has a printer

I tried XTC-3D for another situation where I had rough-ish surfaces and it really takes multiple layers to see any significant smoothing effect. It's essentially a resin epoxy. A few heavy coats and it REDUCES the smaller layer lines, but I was never able to get it to be 100% smooth like a sanding approach yields. Obviously your mileage may vary and it has alot to do with the kind of detail in the piece itself.

Bottom line: No easy way out... 8-)

Might want to tell your buddy to do 100% infill.

Will do

My son wanted a Zelda sword, but rather than the Master Sword, he wanted the Fierce Deity sword from Majora's Mask:
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Finishing for that was a whole bunch of sanding (200-1000) followed by drywall compound to fill (and more sanding), and then I used a spray filler/primer before painting with a metallic acrylic and then spraying with clear. The spray primer won't smooth out everything, but it does a decent job with a few coats. Main takeaway though is that you should expect to sand...a lot. Power sanders are also liable to melt PLA if you haven't tried that already. You can do it if you're careful, but I ended up doing everything by hand.

Man, that's quite the project. Mine will be a pinball part, so won't be too much effort priming/filling and sanding a few coats.

Needed to plug the hole in my POTC playfield I made into wall art, made a disk

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Now you just need to figure out how to print one with 3 discs that spin in random directions and you'd be a hero on the JJP POTC threads!

Snapmaker finally released a firmware update that supports M600 (pause at layer), so I started messing around with filament changes. First experiment was OK:
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I didn't really like the white/red transition, so I reworked it to use three pieces (black/white, black/red, and silver), and made it 400% bigger for a wall decoration:
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Fits nicely on the narrow bulkhead in the game area. Being able to reliably change things out mid-print is a game changer.

JJP Spotlight spare Parts

New Version

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4854563

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Been doing this for a few years with Slic3r/Prusa Slicer (initially with manual code inserts, and in the last year or two with the feature built into the slicer) and it really opens up the ability to do multi-colored prints (in vertical layers). You have to think a little more creatively during the design phase, but I do prints on a regular basis with several different colors and/or color changes and they come out great. Combine this ability with designing more detailed items in pieces that can be assembled, and you really open up the possibilities without moving to a multi-material printer. Of course you still can't intermix multiple colors in a given layer and color changes are manual, but still well worth learning how to think/design/print in terms of multi-color prints.

Thanks for making these and sharing!

Happy with your snapmaker? Considering taking the plunge for the laser engraver and cnc cutter, but hard to justify the price just for these two functions, as I already have a CR10S. Can't figure out if the 3d printer part is better than my CR10S to justify upgrading and swapping

I am thinking about upgrading from my Lulzbot mini to perhaps the Ultimaker S5. One of the reasons I like my Lulzbot is the self leveling function. Does anyone have any other recommendations? What's good between $5k to $15k? Thx!

The Ultimaker is a nice machine but I personally hated that you could only use the large 2.85 mm filament. Just tough to get when 1.75 is the standard everywhere especially in unique colors or materials.

Good point. What printer do you have or recommend?

Have owned dozens of printers. You get what you pay for is what I found. We now have several Raise3D Pro2 units and have never looked back. Professional quality and as good as you can get reliable. Just don't bother with the E2 as that was a flop for us. Pro2 or nothing.

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Is the difference between the Pro2 and Pro 2 Plus just print size?

I think I may have found my next machine! Thanks!

It's my first printer, and the modularity was a selling point for me, so hard to say. It's really expensive if you're just using it for CNC/Laser. Both work pretty well though-I've done some wood engraving with the laser, and it works really well on paper if you want to do layered pieces. I haven't tried acrylic yet, but that's next on the list. I've only done a few things with CNC, and it seems to be OK, but again, even my 350 is pretty limited in carve size. Neat as a "toy" CNC, but you won't be doing playfields on this (limit is I think 300x300mm). I also got in at a preorder price last year, so it was a little cheaper than it is now. They're also still adding new stuff, so the firmware only just added the M600 pause for example. They also have a dual extruder module in development (which many other printers already have), but then there's also stuff like the CNC rotary module that just got released that's a little more unique.

Plus is double the height. Don't make anything that big myself so the standard Pro 2 is perfect. Great people to work with also and great service in the US.

Ordering one today! Thanks!

Recreated the often broken playfield kickout disk aka "saucer." Also made the tabs thicker so hopefully stronger that the original part

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4863393

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Also tossed a Creature From the Black Lagoon light Baffle I remade for my restore on Thingiverse. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4863461

Disclaimer: I'm sure someone will criticize me for offering something for free that others would like us to pay for... but I believe in supporting others in the hobby and sharing the wealth.. not individual bottom lines.
Enjoy
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You will find no criticism here sir, well done and thanks for sharing!

I would love to see someone model the BOP light panels some day. Mine are so old and brittle I feel like if I look at them wrong they'll crumble away.

My Raised3D arrived today!

Shout out to Yelobird for the rec. Can't wait to start printing!

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Sweet. Good luck!!

It will be your fault when one sits on my porch. Made me go check them out. Sweeeeeet

That thing looks badass. Jealous of you guys able to afford toys like that!!! I looked it up when Yelobird recommended and nearly choked. Getting into used premium stern territory!

Plenty of cheaper ones out there to get your feet wet, if you don't so already.

It's not that I can afford it, I can't afford to buy cheap.