(Topic ID: 246329)

3D printing sharing thread.... Lets better the hobby

By hoby1

5 years ago


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#6751 32 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

You can print again, but it doesn't recall your AMS settings and it goes through the entire pre-print routine again.

If i run an 8 color print, it finishes, I go to cache and start again. it prints correctly with all colors no issue.
But yeah, if you move shit around and try a few more prints in-between, it's probably not gonna turn out so well.
We use this for multiple prints back to back in ones sitting. We never scroll down the list for an old print to start. It's more of an "in the moment" reprint option.

Edit: I also don't have the bed leveling or timelapse selected on print preview. Just the use AMS is selected.

#6752 32 days ago

had the [fun] of dealing with a piece of broken filament at 3am this morning. the piece was about a foot long and stuck exiting the 4-way hub so I had to remove the hub from the back of the printer to get at the release to remove the short run of PTFE tubing leading into the printer.

I've printed the tool that allows you to disengage and remove the PTFE tubes leading into the hub from the AMS units (which works fantastic) but I haven't seen one for releasing the tube exiting the hub. is there one?

#6753 32 days ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

new bambu software and new firmware for p1s. New software changed some things looks like.

P1P got one too, but I have no idea what they changed. I searched the web and couldn't find anything.

I order my AMS a couple days ago, now just waiting for it come in. Now I don't have to be so jealos of all these multi-color prints? Looks like for P1P all I need is a couple AMS stands so it will fit up top and that's it.

Thanks latenite04 for letting me know AMS was $50 off. I knew about the 2nd anniversay sale, but didn't see the AMS discount. They didn't do that for Black Friday.

#6754 32 days ago
Quoted from j_m_:

had the [fun] of dealing with a piece of broken filament at 3am this morning. the piece was about a foot long and stuck exiting the 4-way hub so I had to remove the hub from the back of the printer to get at the release to remove the short run of PTFE tubing leading into the printer.
I've printed the tool that allows you to disengage and remove the PTFE tubes leading into the hub from the AMS units (which works fantastic) but I haven't seen one for releasing the tube exiting the hub. is there one?

No tool that I know of for the spring side. It sucks taking it off. Most of the time I just discount the tube up at the top coupler and use a long piece of filament to push it through.

#6755 31 days ago

AMS arriving today.
What cool pin related multi color item should I print first?

#6756 31 days ago

Here's a simple little stand for displaying Attack from Mars Martian figurines on a shelf, on your desk, etc. As far as I know, the Revenge from Mars versions should work too. I might make a slightly fancier one later.

The interface in the back is shaped differently than the bracket in the game so that the post and tab fit into the socket more precisely and gently, without stretching the material. Since the Martian I want to display is going to go in a cloche (display dome), I might make a version of the post that goes straight back so that it can be attached to the inside of the glass dome using silicone, hiding the stand entirely from most angles. Alternatively, I might simply glue the end of the post to the cloche's base to remove the need for the stand's own base.

The post does need a tiny bit of support on the tip when printing it on its side, so it's important to get the sharp, abrasive bits of support off before attaching the Martian. The inner tab that necessitates the support might not be strictly necessary, so I might make a "no support" version at some point with just the outer tab.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6658100

IMG_8590.jpegIMG_8590.jpeg

#6757 31 days ago
Quoted from altan:

AMS arriving today.
What cool pin related multi color item should I print first?

Are STl files available for those cool light boxes people have been making? I'll have to check Thingiverse.

#6758 31 days ago
Quoted from j_m_:

had the [fun] of dealing with a piece of broken filament at 3am this morning. the piece was about a foot long and stuck exiting the 4-way hub so I had to remove the hub from the back of the printer to get at the release to remove the short run of PTFE tubing leading into the printer.
I've printed the tool that allows you to disengage and remove the PTFE tubes leading into the hub from the AMS units (which works fantastic) but I haven't seen one for releasing the tube exiting the hub. is there one?

Stinks when a jam happens.

I swear I used a tool from. This set to release the spring tube

https://makerworld.com/en/models/14462?from=search#profileId-37136

#6759 31 days ago
Quoted from RyanStl:

Are STl files available for those cool light boxes people have been making? I'll have to check Thingiverse.

check out Makerworld as well

#6760 31 days ago
Quoted from ManbearpigOG:

If i run an 8 color print, it finishes, I go to cache and start again. it prints correctly with all colors no issue.
But yeah, if you move shit around and try a few more prints in-between, it's probably not gonna turn out so well.
We use this for multiple prints back to back in ones sitting. We never scroll down the list for an old print to start. It's more of an "in the moment" reprint option.
Edit: I also don't have the bed leveling or timelapse selected on print preview. Just the use AMS is selected.

I have latest Bambu slicer (just upgraded today) and latest version of X1C firmware. After a multi-color print is finished, I receive a prompt screen to print again. When pushed I'm presented with the options screen and none of the filament slots are set as they were in the previous print. However, if you designate what colors you have in the slots then it will work correctly. I do too much printing and filament swaps to be setting colors all of the time. I just keep the slots set to PLA (most of what I do) then swap out spool colors as needed. I do have my primary 4 colors fixed in AMS-1 but AMS-2 is where all the swapping occurs.

#6761 31 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I have latest Bambu slicer (just upgraded today) and latest version of X1C firmware. After a multi-color print is finished, I receive a prompt screen to print again. When pushed I'm presented with the options screen and none of the filament slots are set as they were in the previous print.

Yea, I dont get it, they need to add a "Print again with same settings" option after a print is finished, its really annoying.

I posted this many months ago on the Bambu forum and was met with crickets, cant imagine it would be that hard to add this feature.

12
#6762 31 days ago
Quoted from altan:

AMS arriving today.
What cool pin related multi color item should I print first?

First AMS print turned out amazing!
Used the colors I had, but still like it.

IMG_5052 (resized).jpegIMG_5052 (resized).jpegIMG_5053 (resized).jpegIMG_5053 (resized).jpeg

#6763 31 days ago
Quoted from altan:

First AMS print turned out amazing!
Used the colors I had, but still like it.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks great!

#6764 30 days ago
Quoted from nerbflong:

Stinks when a jam happens.
I swear I used a tool from. This set to release the spring tube
https://makerworld.com/en/models/14462?from=search#profileId-37136

thanks. I just found this one as well.
https://makerworld.com/en/models/81075?from=search#profileId-86228

#6765 30 days ago

This morning was my last print error on an ender3.

I gave up and ordered bambu x1c with ams.

#6766 30 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I have latest Bambu slicer (just upgraded today) and latest version of X1C firmware. After a multi-color print is finished, I receive a prompt screen to print again. When pushed I'm presented with the options screen and none of the filament slots are set as they were in the previous print. However, if you designate what colors you have in the slots then it will work correctly. I do too much printing and filament swaps to be setting colors all of the time. I just keep the slots set to PLA (most of what I do) then swap out spool colors as needed. I do have my primary 4 colors fixed in AMS-1 but AMS-2 is where all the swapping occurs.

I’m on a little vacation right now, but I’ll have to check this when I get back. I updated 2, but didn’t reprint before we left. We only have P1Ps, so not sure of the difference. I get that the X1C screen has AMS settings.

#6767 30 days ago

Had my first “big” problem with P1S yesterday. Spent 5 hours on it, but could resolve it much faster now (just like pin repair!). Long story short, i had a big clog in the extruder, which I fixed, but also had a special clog in the hot end that required a funky sequence of steps (heating a 1.5mm allen wrench and sticking it in the hotend, per Bambu's instructions). Of course I didn’t know that both problems existed so I took it all apart, put it back together, then needed to take apart again. Plus various tests (which really add up).

But all is well. Printed this as a final test.
IMG_5058 (resized).jpegIMG_5058 (resized).jpeg

#6768 30 days ago

Anymore when I have a clog I just swap the nozzle, it's 3min and back up and going. Sometimes if it's an especially new printer I'll do the heat it to 300 degrees and poke it with the pokey thing but for the most part that seldom works and swapping the nozzle works 90% of the time....otherwise it's that AND the extruder which is just a couple more screws. What filament caused the clog altan

#6769 30 days ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

Anymore when I have a clog I just swap the nozzle, it's 3min and back up and going. Sometimes if it's an especially new printer I'll do the heat it to 300 degrees and poke it with the pokey thing but for the most part that seldom works and swapping the nozzle works 90% of the time....otherwise it's that AND the extruder which is just a couple more screws. What filament caused the clog altan

Makes perfect sense and I bought into that approach already! I ordered an extra extruder and hotend yesterday

I think I caused the problem because of how I was using my new AMS. I had ABS in slots 1, 2 and 3. I had PLA in slot 4. I know you cannot mix them in a single print job. However, I thought it would be fine to print something with ABS (slots 1,2,3) and when done, print something with PLA (slot 4).

When I did that (started a PLA print), that's when the problem occurred. I expected Bambu+AMS would ensure everything was at the proper temp. Maybe it does and this was just a fluke.

All Bambu brand filament in this case -- it's really nice the AMS automatically knows what you put in there!

#6770 30 days ago

That bambu filament is high as giraffe pussy though. I'm averaging about $9.40 a roll for PLA+ and PETG across all colors. Bambu sent me a few rolls of their filmament as way of an apology for taking a month to send me a repaired AMS back and I've still got it in the boxes here someplace. Will have to run it through and see if it looks like unicorns and rainbows or what LOL

Quoted from altan:

Makes perfect sense and I bought into that approach already! I ordered an extra extruder and hotend yesterday
I think I caused the problem because of how I was using my new AMS. I had ABS in slots 1, 2 and 3. I had PLA in slot 4. I know you cannot mix them in a single print job. However, I thought it would be fine to print something with ABS (slots 1,2,3) and when done, print something with PLA (slot 4).
When I did that (started a PLA print), that's when the problem occurred. I expected Bambu+AMS would ensure everything was at the proper temp. Maybe it does and this was just a fluke.
All Bambu brand filament in this case -- it's really nice the AMS automatically knows what you put in there!

#6771 30 days ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

That bambu filament is high as giraffe pussy though. I'm averaging about $9.40 a roll for PLA+ and PETG across all colors. Bambu sent me a few rolls of their filmament as way of an apology for taking a month to send me a repaired AMS back and I've still got it in the boxes here someplace. Will have to run it through and see if it looks like unicorns and rainbows or what LOL

Yes, Bambu is more expensive -- Although I didn't think that much more. You have good sources!

I'll certainly look at non-Bambu, but at least wanted to see how nice the RFID sensing works initially. Plus I'm new to this whole 3D printing (March) and figured I'd get started with the "official" stuff.

For non-Bambu, do you need to enter anything special into the configs?

#6772 30 days ago

I'll give you that it's cool when you drop in a bambu roll and it knows what it is, I've only used the demo rolls and the support stuff that comes with the printers though. I do have a PILE of empty bambu spools though lol

for PLA+ I use the very bottom ESUN PLA+ choice and make no changes, for PETG I select GENERIC PETG and make no other changes, for TPU there are some changes and I'm happy to discuss those if you start using that stuff. That is the filament that clogs more nozzles than anything for me, TPU I mean.

Quoted from altan:Yes, Bambu is more expensive -- Although I didn't think that much more. You have good sources!
I'll certainly look at non-Bambu, but at least wanted to see how nice the RFID sensing works initially. Plus I'm new to this whole 3D printing (March) and figured I'd get started with the "official" stuff.
For non-Bambu, do you need to enter anything special into the configs?

#6773 29 days ago

IMO, Bambu is making boat loads of cash off the new users who know nothing about the 3D printing world. Buying their filament that’s just rebranded common stuff (sunlu or something very common) and all the spare parts. Yes we need access to spare parts, but fixing a clog is something every person who prints should know how to do versus just throwing away the hot end and putting a new one on. jrcmlc if you want to save your bad ones in take them . I’ve only replaced 2 on our 4 machines, and one was bent. But I’ve fixed clogs so many times and just keep printing.

#6774 29 days ago
Quoted from ManbearpigOG:

IMO, Bambu is making boat loads of cash off the new users who know nothing about the 3D printing world. Buying their filament that’s just rebranded common stuff (sunlu or something very common) and all the spare parts. Yes we need access to spare parts, but fixing a clog is something every person who prints should know how to do versus just throwing away the hot end and putting a new one on. jrcmlc if you want to save your bad ones in take them . I’ve only replaced 2 on our 4 machines, and one was bent. But I’ve fixed clogs so many times and just keep printing.

I agree. To tie to pinball machines, you should know how to fix if you own. But that can come with time.

In my case, to clarify, I ordered the new hotend and extruder to have around in case everything goes upside down and I need to print something. I might even swap a good one while I fix one.

Bambu gets thumbs up from me just because their stuff works so well. But I suspect their business model is somewhat like a razor and blades model or the HP printer + ink.

#6775 29 days ago

100% you're welcome to them. Pm me your address I probably have a a dozen unless the guys have chucked them. All yours. No reason at all to spend anymore than basic time on a nozzle with 1000+ hours that's clogged that costs $12 or whatever they are (and we get an extra with every printer even). Time cost is a real thing.

Quoted from ManbearpigOG:IMO, Bambu is making boat loads of cash off the new users who know nothing about the 3D printing world. Buying their filament that’s just rebranded common stuff (sunlu or something very common) and all the spare parts. Yes we need access to spare parts, but fixing a clog is something every person who prints should know how to do versus just throwing away the hot end and putting a new one on. jrcmlc if you want to save your bad ones in take them . I’ve only replaced 2 on our 4 machines, and one was bent. But I’ve fixed clogs so many times and just keep printing.

#6776 29 days ago

I think I told tantrum this privately but some months back I got a shipment of sunlu pla+ from sunlu directly and it arrived in a Bambu box. Lol

#6777 29 days ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

I think I told tantrum this privately but some months back I got a shipment of sunlu pla+ from sunlu directly and it arrived in a Bambu box. Lol

LOL!
Wonder where the RFID gets added in the process...

#6778 29 days ago

It was still sunlu rolls in sunlu boxes and bags but the outer box was Bambu. Direct from sunlu.

Quoted from altan:LOL!
Wonder where the RFID gets added in the process...

#6779 29 days ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

It was still sunlu rolls in sunlu boxes and bags but the outer box was Bambu. Direct from sunlu.

Ah, well -- not surprised they do some sort of drop ship variation it seems.

Made me think of the Reddit thread (I think it was Reddit) where a guy was getting weed wacker string to work as filament!

#6780 29 days ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

100% you're welcome to them. Pm me your address I probably have a a dozen unless the guys have chucked them. All yours. No reason at all to spend anymore than basic time on a nozzle with 1000+ hours that's clogged that costs $12 or whatever they are (and we get an extra with every printer even). Time cost is a real thing.

I'll take whatever he doesn't

#6782 29 days ago
Quoted from altan:

Had my first “big” problem with P1S yesterday. Spent 5 hours on it, but could resolve it much faster now (just like pin repair!). Long story short, i had a big clog in the extruder, which I fixed, but also had a special clog in the hot end that required a funky sequence of steps (heating a 1.5mm allen wrench and sticking it in the hotend, per Bambu's instructions). Of course I didn’t know that both problems existed so I took it all apart, put it back together, then needed to take apart again. Plus various tests (which really add up).
But all is well. Printed this as a final test.
[quoted image]

I did this with allen key and got the clog out, but must have damaged the thermistor with the lighter metod because it wasn't working afterwards. With no spare thermistor I bought a replacement nozzle already wired and spare thermistors. The replacement head is hardened so I tell myself it was an upgrade

#6783 29 days ago
Quoted from altan:

Had my first “big” problem with P1S yesterday. Spent 5 hours on it, but could resolve it much faster now (just like pin repair!). Long story short, i had a big clog in the extruder, which I fixed, but also had a special clog in the hot end that required a funky sequence of steps (heating a 1.5mm allen wrench and sticking it in the hotend, per Bambu's instructions). Of course I didn’t know that both problems existed so I took it all apart, put it back together, then needed to take apart again. Plus various tests (which really add up).
But all is well. Printed this as a final test.
[quoted image]

How did you print that? is the raised lettering part of it? It seems like you would have to have a ton of supports no matter which way you orient it if it is all one piece.

#6784 29 days ago
Quoted from mark532011:

How did you print that? is the raised lettering part of it? It seems like you would have to have a ton of supports no matter which way you orient it.

I cannot take any credit other than fixing my P1S. It’s a model available on one of the sites. Using my phone now, but can provide the link later.

Yes, it had a lot of supports.

The lettering is raised. Lots of raised elements. Was an interesting one to print. About 7 hours!

#6785 29 days ago

I'd love a link to that as well, I don't really get into selling all the IP infringing stuff but that's a neat model I might make a couple of those and put them around my place.

Quoted from altan:I cannot take any credit other than fixing my P1S. It’s a model available on one of the sites. Using my phone now, but can provide the link later.
Yes, it had a lot of supports.
The lettering is raised. Lots of raised elements. Was an interesting one to print. About 7 hours!

#6786 29 days ago
Quoted from mark532011:

How did you print that? is the raised lettering part of it? It seems like you would have to have a ton of supports no matter which way you orient it if it is all one piece.

The back of the model is likely flat. It was printed on its back so that the text was on top and flat, thus requiring no support. Printing on its back also necessitated far fewer color changes (and resulting material waste) than if it had been printed in the orientation in which it's designed to be displayed. Designing items for easy printing and finding the positioning that requires the least support and reduces the visibility of overhang defects and layer lines is a large part of 3D printing. Sometimes, you might decide to cut the model into multiple parts before printing and then assemble it afterwards in order to get the best result.

#6787 29 days ago
Quoted from Tux:

Here's a simple little stand for displaying Attack from Mars Martian figurines on a shelf, on your desk, etc. As far as I know, the Revenge from Mars versions should work too. I might make a slightly fancier one later.
The interface in the back is shaped differently than the bracket in the game so that the post and tab fit into the socket more precisely and gently, without stretching the material. Since the Martian I want to display is going to go in a cloche (display dome), I might make a version of the post that goes straight back so that it can be attached to the inside of the glass dome using silicone, hiding the stand entirely from most angles. Alternatively, I might simply glue the end of the post to the cloche's base to remove the need for the stand's own base.
The post does need a tiny bit of support on the tip when printing it on its side, so it's important to get the sharp, abrasive bits of support off before attaching the Martian. The inner tab that necessitates the support might not be strictly necessary, so I might make a "no support" version at some point with just the outer tab.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6658100
[quoted image]

Is that martian figure printed? Has anyone scanned one to print out there?

#6788 29 days ago
Quoted from altan:

Yes, Bambu is more expensive -- Although I didn't think that much more. You have good sources!
I'll certainly look at non-Bambu, but at least wanted to see how nice the RFID sensing works initially. Plus I'm new to this whole 3D printing (March) and figured I'd get started with the "official" stuff.
For non-Bambu, do you need to enter anything special into the configs?

I use generic PLA settings with my lower fan speed modifications I've posted in this thread. These settings work great with all my third party PLA/PLA+ filaments (Prusament, Sunlu, 3D Solutech, and a couple of others).

If you're swapping colors out on a regular basis then don't jack with setting the colors on the AMS slots. Just set them all to PLA black. When you either print from the slicer or from the panel, you can designate which slot each color in the model should be assigned to (i.e. colors don't have to match as long as you know you want to pull red from slot 1, blue from slot 2, etc.)

#6789 29 days ago
Quoted from altan:

Makes perfect sense and I bought into that approach already! I ordered an extra extruder and hotend yesterday
I think I caused the problem because of how I was using my new AMS. I had ABS in slots 1, 2 and 3. I had PLA in slot 4. I know you cannot mix them in a single print job. However, I thought it would be fine to print something with ABS (slots 1,2,3) and when done, print something with PLA (slot 4).
When I did that (started a PLA print), that's when the problem occurred. I expected Bambu+AMS would ensure everything was at the proper temp. Maybe it does and this was just a fluke.
All Bambu brand filament in this case -- it's really nice the AMS automatically knows what you put in there!

I've cleared plenty of filament jams but has just become second nature to fix them. Sometimes I have to remove the hotend and bull a broken piece blocking the tube. Other times I've had to full disassemble the feeder assembly with the gears getting jammed due to a small broken piece or enlarged piece of filament. I've replaced the nozzle once on my X1C thus far after what I determined to be a thermister issue on the old one. I could have just replaced it but didn't have any thermal paste on hand, so just went with the entire replacement.

Overall, this printer is pretty simple to work on. The only real pain to me is when I get filament breakage in the AMS and you have to remove the spool holder piece from the shell to get to the underside of things. Has happened a few times, but not in awhile as I've learned to test the last foot or so of my spools for brittleness before I swap them into the AMS. If you're not aware, some filaments (particularly the translucent ones) become brittle when having been fed through the machine, removed, and sit for a few days. You simply snap this section off the spool by hand before using that spool again.

#6790 29 days ago

Printed a PF topper for a friend, scaled up at 200%, and then another at the normal size (8”x4”) for a little accent piece. Internal lights are just USB cob led strips (BTF Lighting)

Longtime cura user, I just absolutely love how easy the cuts are in Bambu slicer! Had a little overflow on my glue, so may reprint the one…but my buddy is happy so that’s what matters

IMG_0627 (resized).jpegIMG_0627 (resized).jpegIMG_0666 (resized).jpegIMG_0666 (resized).jpeg
#6791 28 days ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

I'll give you that it's cool when you drop in a bambu roll and it knows what it is, I've only used the demo rolls and the support stuff that comes with the printers though. I do have a PILE of empty bambu spools though lol
for PLA+ I use the very bottom ESUN PLA+ choice and make no changes, for PETG I select GENERIC PETG and make no other changes, for TPU there are some changes and I'm happy to discuss those if you start using that stuff. That is the filament that clogs more nozzles than anything for me, TPU I mean.

Do you buy your filament in bulk? Any tips on getting the prices you're getting for the esun pla+? Thanks

#6792 28 days ago

We generally only use ESUN for a few colors that are more vivid/correct for them, otherwise it's sunlu and iiidmax for pla+, sunlu for petg (mostly) and various companies for TPU based on the colors we need but priline and overture and sainsmart are the bulk of those.

Quoted from JakePG:Do you buy your filament in bulk? Any tips on getting the prices you're getting for the esun pla+? Thanks

#6793 28 days ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

We generally only use ESUN for a few colors that are more vivid/correct for them, otherwise it's sunlu and iiidmax for pla+, sunlu for petg (mostly) and various companies for TPU based on the colors we need but priline and overture and sainsmart are the bulk of those.

Cool. What filament profile do you use for the iiidmax?

#6794 28 days ago

I use the very bottom one in the list which is listed as e-sun for all pla+ regardless of brand

Quoted from JakePG:Cool. What filament profile do you use for the iiidmax?

#6795 28 days ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

I use the very bottom one in the list which is listed as e-sun for all pla+ regardless of brand

Have you found that to be better than Generic? I did do the k factor and then made a IIIMAX profile, but it’s still hot and miss by color.

#6796 28 days ago

Honestly I've never used the generic one for pla+ lol. I did the K Factor but the most recent firmware update seems to have counterfeited that somehow and it's no longer something I can type in and I haven't had time to fight with it to find out what happened to it my results for the K Factor previously were 020 petg, 035 for pla+ and 020 for tpu those are the settings that I used regardless of brand with really pretty great results

Quoted from ManbearpigOG:Have you found that to be better than Generic? I did do the k factor and then made a IIIMAX profile, but it’s still hot and miss by color.

#6797 28 days ago
Quoted from Viggin900:

Is that martian figure printed? Has anyone scanned one to print out there?

The Martian figure isn't printed; it's the second of two that Brian Eddy threw into the audience during his seminar at the Northwest Pinball and Arcade Show this year. I wanted to display it as a cool souvenir, so I made the stand and a little plaque to allow it to be displayed inside a cloche on my desk. I don't believe there's a publicly-available digital model for it. I do have a 3D scanner that "should" be appropriate for scanning one, but I've had endless trouble with it. I might try anyway for personal use (I want to make a Stretch Armstrong-sized Martian from silicone, but that would probably best be done by traditional sculpting and mold making), but I don't know if I would get in trouble for sharing the scan. I've tried to scan the cactus band from Cactus Jack's before to make more-durable silicone versions, but it wasn't working and I decided that the design is simple enough that I'll just re-sculpt it by hand. This is what one version of the complete display looks like. I'm working on making a 3D-printed base for the dome that looks like one of the saucers from the game, complete with chasing lights.

MartianCloche (resized).jpegMartianCloche (resized).jpeg

#6798 28 days ago
Quoted from altan:

I cannot take any credit other than fixing my P1S. It’s a model available on one of the sites. Using my phone now, but can provide the link later.
Yes, it had a lot of supports.
The lettering is raised. Lots of raised elements. Was an interesting one to print. About 7 hours!

Here's the link. Thank "CloseEnoughMachineShop" for the work.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/462986#profileId-392036

#6799 28 days ago
Quoted from Tux:

The Martian figure isn't printed; it's the second of two that Brian Eddy threw into the audience during his seminar at the Northwest Pinball and Arcade Show this year. I wanted to display it as a cool souvenir, so I made the stand and a little plaque to allow it to be displayed inside a cloche on my desk. I don't believe there's a publicly-available digital model for it. I do have a 3D scanner that "should" be appropriate for scanning one, but I've had endless trouble with it. I might try anyway for personal use (I want to make a Stretch Armstrong-sized Martian from silicone, but that would probably best be done by traditional sculpting and mold making), but I don't know if I would get in trouble for sharing the scan. I've tried to scan the cactus band from Cactus Jack's before to make more-durable silicone versions, but it wasn't working and I decided that the design is simple enough that I'll just re-sculpt it by hand. This is what one version of the complete display looks like. I'm working on making a 3D-printed base for the dome that looks like one of the saucers from the game, complete with chasing lights.
[quoted image]

Very similar to the ones I offer. I wanted something to display my old ones after I bought the Big-O-Jiggly ones with illuminated red eyes for my pin. I ended up making two different designs when I noticed that it looked better with placing the figure high up (e.g. on a shelf, on the backbox, etc.) it looked better to angle them downward a little. Also, while they will stand upright on their own, if mounted to the top of a pin I use clear Gorilla mounting tape under the base.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-remake-afmr-owners-club/page/163#post-5431478
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#6800 28 days ago

How do you like the 20% larger big-o jiggly martians in place of the OEM?

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Very similar to the ones I offer. I wanted something to display my old ones after I bought the Big-O-Jiggly ones with illuminated red eyes for my pin. I ended up making two different designs when I noticed that it looked better with placing the figure high up (e.g. on a shelf, on the backbox, etc.) it looked better to angle them downward a little. Also, while they will stand upright on their own, if mounted to the top of a pin I use clear Gorilla mounting tape under the base.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-remake-afmr-owners-club/page/163#post-5431478
[quoted image]

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