Cool, Definitely has many possibilities. Really good for unique part mechanisms under the playfield, standoffs and actuators.

u may try and hollow them out if they are too heavy

Would the 3d printing work with vacuum formed plastics like that of Escape from the lost world , black water 100 to name a couple?

You can build whatever, keeping in mind if you're going to make a mold base for vacuum formed parts you would want to sand/bondo it smooth beforehand. Honestly the best way to reproduce vacuum formed plastic is to get an original, fill it in with clay, carefully pop it out (so it doesn't distort), 3d scan it, then print out a positive. That way someone has an archive of the original if more are ever needed.

Yeah, my buddy just set his up. He does restorations on anything arcade and is using it to make impossible-to -find parts like on bowlers, woodrails, etc. Really cool stuff.

I'm very excited. I just made an order for a Prusa i3 printer. Unfortunately it's supposed to be a month before I get it (purchased as part of a Massdrop group buy). I've been planning to start building a machine from parts and this should open up some options for me that are a bit more difficult to find. Once I actually get a machine built from existing parts I'm going to give a whirl at a nearly all 3D printed one just to see how much of the machine could be done. I know it's probably a small group of people that actually care, but it'd be fun to have as close to an open source machine as possible.

I'm anxious to see if it will hold up for several plays. If so, the Game Plan sharpshooter drop target issue may be solved.

While 3D printing is pretty awesome, I doubt any of those pieces will hold up long term inside a machine. IMO the best way to utilize a 3D printer would be to make one part, sand down all the 'stepping' that occurs, seal it, then use that to cast the actual part out of a stronger resin or plastic. Simple injection molds can be made using syringes to help eliminate bubble or air pockets in the pieces.

We have a 3D printing store here in Denver. I just sent an email to them asking if a 3D printed part would have the same strength of plastic targets in a pinball. We will see.

One interesting thing that's come up in the last 6 months, the new connix 3d printers from stratasys (I'd imagine pricing on the printer alone is $100k) is that it can print a new material that can handle up to 400°F, so that means you can make your own injection molds (yes molds, not molded parts). Also the resolution is so great that you almost don't need to clean up the steps (unless you're doing clear parts, then you'll need to polish). Granted you won't be shooting glass filled nylon, but I doubt most pinball parts are. Polypropylene is still much stronger than a 3d printed part.

Granted you can only get maybe a hundred shots or so off a 3d printed mold, it's still about 1/10th the cost of a real steel mold, and is great for proving something out (or running a short run of pinball parts). Plus this is brand new technology, eventually the printers and material will come down in price. If you can design your own mold (which isn't terribly hard if you're not worried about optimizing fast mold time or precision parts), this is not a bad option. Once you have a mold you can throw in a standard sized mold base, there's lots of shops that wouldn't mind running parts while machines aren't in queue (as long as you're not in a rush).
3d_printed_part[1].jpg

I have a connex 500 and have used that material. It's about £2000 for 3kg.

No it wont. RP parts are stronger in compression than in shear. Different properties to an injection mold.

There are several people here on pinside that do 3D printing. I'm one of them. I don't have my own printer, because I think a service like Shapeways is a little more cost effective and has much better materials than deposited abs.

So far, their plastic has held up in a few machines. Here is a bracket I did for pinbot.

http://shpws.me/py5J

The cost of 3D printing a material with strong properties is still way to high and not cost effective. Not only that but the time it takes to do one part on a 3D printer vs injection molding is also a factor. Using a 3D printer to make molds and parts to be molded is a great idea !

Have you tried a Acetone vapor bath? It will smooth out the layers.

in for updates.

That's awesome. For a small run that would be really nice to have as an option.

I think that we are already to the point of make your own ramps out of 3d castings. 3d printing plastics can handle tin alloys and even aluminum. Making a ton of metal parts using castings is pretty easy in comparison to doing it through lost wax.

Making a spoon out of tin alloy

Pewter

If you don't like those metals, send your 3 printed design to companies that do a lot of lost wax work for jewelers. Some companies, I believe will create the wax model themselves if you supply them with a computer model. They are cheap and what they charge is sometimes less than what you would spend on vestment material if you did it yourself, excluding metal cost.

Here is a list of usable (as in reasonably similar in appearance) factory pinball parts on Thingiverse found in a "pinball" search as of 1/15/2018. Not a bad list at all! Many aren't exact replicas but if you want to save money or don't care about the absolute details, this list will be helpful. It's also not all inclusive but covers at least 90% of the good models available.

Gottlieb C13150 Flipper Bat
Attack From Mars/Revenge from Mars Saucer
Sega Drop Target
Data East Drop Target
Stern Post
Gottlieb Lamp Cover/Plastic Nut
Bally/Williams Star Post
Addams Family Fester Chair
Williams Plastic Lane Guide
Bally/Williams Flipper Bat
Bally/Williams Jet Bumper Parts
Bally Drop Target
Bally Playfield Insert
Cabinet Leg Protector (Large)
Kickout Saucer
Light Weight Ball
Data East Flipper Bat (No Logo)
Bally/Williams Drop Target 03-8750
Cabinet Leg Protector
Bally/Williams Plunger Link
Data East Autolaunch Solenoid Pad
Rocky & Bullwinkle Hat Trick Mechanism Arm
Rocky & Bullwinkle Hat Trick Mechanism Rail Guide
Molex Pin Extractor Tip
Spotlight Lamp Reflector & Bracket
Bugs Bunny's Birthday Ball Ramp Protectors
Stern Spinner Washer
EM Plunger Parts
Solenoid Armature Link 03-8085 / 545-5293-00
Bally EM Chime Box
Chicago Coin/Hollywood Pinball EM Score Reel Wiper Arm
Chicago Coin/Hollywood Pinball EM Score Reel EOS Switch Spacer
Chicago Coin/Hollywood Pinball EM Relay Finger Support Bracket
Chicago Coin/Hollywood Pinball EM Ball Kicker 464-2514-R
Bally/Williams Flipper Opto Curtain
Bally/Williams Flipper Opto Interrupter
Apron Mount Replacement
Williams System 7 Corner Bracket
Millionaire Pinball Roulette Puck
Fire! Ladder Motor Trapezoid
Gottlieb Trough Switch Bracket
Williams Drop Target Catch B-11225 / C-11223-1
Gottlieb EM Insert
Williams EM Plunger Housing
Williams System 11 Flipper Bushing
Stern Drop Target Rest Ledge 545-6163-01
Gottlieb Flipper Bat
Gottlieb Drop Target
Bally Jeweled Posts
Allied Leisure PCB Clip
Bally/Williams Plunger Coil Stop
Stern Backbox Light Baffle
Party Zone Dancing Dummy Body
Williams Outhole Plunger Link 01-4251

Just found out my local library has a digital media lab with 2 printers! Would love to see models for Williams Space Shuttle toy and Pin*Bot vortext ramp (with point values embossed!).

I've been successful using additive manufacturing (FDM & SLA). I've given drop targets to friends and it's been over a year without any issues. I added material at weak areas to improve durability.
here's a list of some of the parts I've made (there's probably 10 more I haven't added)

Screen Shot 2023-11-30 at 12.11.10 AM (resized).png