(Topic ID: 309594)

3D Printing Gottlieb Edge Connectors

By ChrisHibler

2 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 13 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by Frax
  • Topic is favorited by 5 Pinsiders

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#1 2 years ago

Sometime in the recent past, I saw a post about 3D printing Gottlieb edge connectors.

Can anyone point me to that?

We really need a source for some of the NLA connectors. Ed at GPE has some, but the 19 pin (for instance) is OOS and will be forever.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#2 2 years ago

I had it bookmarked. I didn't have much luck but I think the material is important to getting a good final product here.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5149428

#3 2 years ago

Not sure I have seen the 3D Printed, but I bought all new connectors for Black Hole from these people not too long ago. Quality was good and so was communication. Ordering was a little strange, but my game plays flawlessly now!!

https://www.docentelectronics.com/httpdocs/AmusementGames/Pinball/Gottlieb/system%2080.htm

#4 2 years ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

I had it bookmarked. I didn't have much luck but I think the material is important to getting a good final product here.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5149428

So you tried to 3D print at least one connector Cheddar ?

Was the part produced usable?

Can you post a pic of it?


Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com/ - The new place for pinball repair info

#5 2 years ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

So you tried to 3D print at least one connector Cheddar ?
Was the part produced usable?
Can you post a pic of it?

Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com/ - The new place for pinball repair info

My issue was I printed in PLA (the only thing I had on hand) and the crimp channels were too tight. This is a pic of a failed one. You can see it cut off too short
PXL_20211212_194212769.MP (resized).jpgPXL_20211212_194212769.MP (resized).jpg

I spent a lot of time cleaning the inside of the housing and only got a couple of crimps in. If I had messed with settings and materials I could have done better. The creator had his printed in vinyl.

#6 2 years ago

The designer on thingiverse printed using a resin printer which is a lot different than a normal 3D printer. Resin printers print smoother much higher detail.

#7 2 years ago

The designer is on pinside if you have any questions, Lucxor

#8 2 years ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

So you tried to 3D print at least one connector Cheddar ?
Was the part produced usable?
Can you post a pic of it?

Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com/ - The new place for pinball repair info

My issue was I printed in PLA (the only thing I had on hand) and the crimp channels were too tight. This is a pic of a failed one. You can see it cut off too short
2021-12-12 11.42.12 (resized).jpg2021-12-12 11.42.12 (resized).jpg

I spent a lot of time cleaning the inside of the housing and only got a couple of crimps in. If I had messed with settings and materials I could have done better. The creator had his printed in vinyl.

#9 2 years ago
Quoted from John_I:

The designer on thingiverse printed using a resin printer which is a lot different than a normal 3D printer. Resin printers print smoother much higher detail.

Yep. I have a resin printer I've used a few times for small little things. I hated the hell out of my PLA printer. It was a cheapo model, super finicky, no heated bed.... it sucked balls. The resin printer? It just worked for the most part. The build volume is small, but it was WAY easier to get results I was happy with.

I'm not sure what the temperature tolerance needs to be for one of these edge connectors....do they tend to get hot like molex? There's some high temperature resins out there, but they're not cheap. Like 80 bucks for 1kg of resin, some of that will likely end up as waste material.

The biggest problem I see is if I'm picturing the internal structure of these (without being able to load the model above and actually look at it in a modeler) is that while resin will print thin walls....it's not ideal, or very strong. I did a Mechagodzilla print that had some pretty thin little parts after I scaled it down to fit the build volume, and some of them ended up snapping off relatively easily. Definitely not strong enough to support the insertion of any kind of pin or pressure fitting. Depending on what these actually look like internally (and I could look at it with a slicer....er....maybe Wednesday. Monday and tuesday nights are busy for me..), I might be able to offer a more informed opinion of how I think it would do on a resin printer.

I'm a rank noob when it comes to 3d printing in general, but if I can help out.....it would give me an excuse to get the thing set back up and doing something.

I'm definitely willing to give it a shot. The Thingiverse link above was printed on a Photon....I have a Photon S, so should be pretty straightforward. Technically, it should be better, and faster, on the S. *shrug*

Quoted from John_I:

Not sure I have seen the 3D Printed, but I bought all new connectors for Black Hole from these people not too long ago. Quality was good and so was communication. Ordering was a little strange, but my game plays flawlessly now!!
https://www.docentelectronics.com/httpdocs/AmusementGames/Pinball/Gottlieb/system%2080.htm

Nice front page they have there.

#10 2 years ago

Excellent @frax. I'd love to see and hear about your results.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#11 2 years ago

Hello everyone

I don't think it's possible to print this part with a FDM Printer. The guiding for the crimpd are to detailed. I Printer some and they worked for me. Also a guy in the German forum had a company printed them for him for 1 dollar per plug. The only thing he stated was the the barb does not holt enough under pressure. I did lift the barb on the crimp a bit and didn't had the problem then.

It's still a work in progress so if there is something that doesn't fit, let me know.
I only had a Janin Platine to designe them.

I used the normal anycubic transparent resin from anycubic for 30Dollar 1Liter.

I did tried the though resin from anycubic, but you can see that the part wasn't holding his Form it got bent after a week so I don't recommend the expensive material here.

1642762512233.png1642762512233.pngIMG_20211111_124140.jpgIMG_20211111_124140.jpgIMG_20211203_123731_edit_147632329595181.jpgIMG_20211203_123731_edit_147632329595181.jpgIMG_20211206_123515_edit_229705125004010.jpgIMG_20211206_123515_edit_229705125004010.jpg

#12 2 years ago

Lucxor Thanks for the pics. The process looks promising. Just a little fine tuning with materials perhaps.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#13 2 years ago

Wall thickness looks good to me in those top down shots. With these being 100% infill (Kind of a contradiction...that just means it's a solid part with no internal supports or hollowed out areas to reduce material useage. This isn't typical for resin prints, because generally you want to minimize the area that contacts the FEP sheet in the resin vat.). There's an irony of resin printing that you want as little cross-sectional surface area for each layer as possible......but this also leads to more printed layers and thus longer print times. Will be interesting to try this out as he suggests PCB-facing side down) as well as playing around with it in a slicer to see what would happen if you try to print it vertically, or at an angle. Less contact area = more simultaneous prints on the same run. Small ones could easily be printed as suggested, but the longer pieces like the 19 pin are going to put a good amount of pressure on the FEP being a solid part and all, even printing as a solo piece. I've seen some people put a bit of teflon lube or something on their FEP sheets so the cured layers don't stick as hard and extend the life of the FEP, but I haven't tried it yet.....but now would be a good time as I've got it mostly drained from moving and just need to clean it out and then do whatever.

Once I get one printed, I'll show you a comparison versus the Godzilla and Mechagodzilla models I printed, that I'd scaled to fit the largest volume I could manage on the Photon S, hollowed out, put holes in for drainage and cleaning, etc.

Unfortunately, I don't have any of the games that use these connectors, or the pins that go in them, so I won't be able to offer any insight there, but I'd certainly be happy to toss them in a flat rate box at cost (Just the shipping...I have more resin than I know what to do with currently!) for someone else to test if I can get a set printed on my machine.

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