(Topic ID: 113463)

3D Printing candidate

By chad

9 years ago


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  • 37 posts
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  • Latest reply 9 years ago by dothedoo
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

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#28 9 years ago

nice work wolf and good on you for helping.

agree some designs are better suited for shapeways because of the binding process they use. With the models I have uploaded there I have added U versions. U signifies an upgrade in the design to strengthen the design where possible. Checked out the model images and simply adding a small radius in corners helps add strength to the design and reducing shear (fail) points.

Hope that helps

below is the bally ball launch arm standard and U version
https://www.shapeways.com/search?q=bally+ball+launch

Quoted from HHaase:

Oh, one thing about the light shields. The plastic used on original pieces is soft enough you can just staple through them. Almost any of the 3D printer friendly plastics wouldn't be able to do that, you'd have to put in holes and mount with screws. Not that it's a bad thing, just something to be aware of.
The good thing is you've also got choices in plastic colors. Natural ABS would be closest to original in looks and translucence, but you could also go with black and get much better control over light location.
A lot of options for colored light shields with filaments such as Taulman's T-Glase, for any place you can think of in a machine.

I did these for a restorer in Aus

https://www.shapeways.com/search?q=bally+light+shroud

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