(Topic ID: 252412)

3D printer recommendations

By Clnilsen

4 years ago


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  • Latest reply 4 years ago by PinMonk
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    #2 4 years ago

    They're all finicky, headache inducing machines much of the time. Jams, adhesion issues, leveling, setting adjustments, fire hazards...

    I currently have 2 CR-10 printers (recommend Creality branded version over the Hictop--I have one of each) and would recommend them with a better glass top and PEI plastic cover (sanded). Many other mods exist that can be 3D printed (levelers, fan assemblies...) or added (metal extruder, hotend, etc.).

    My Monoprice Select V2 is more reliable overall and cheaper (recommended for small projects, but the CR10 and larger versions would be needed for large parts), but needs several connections to be hard soldered to the board and/or a Mosfet board upgrade. Works fine out of the box, but WILL have burnt connections at some point (mine has progressively melted more connections that lead to failure and a fire hazard, and it's a universal issue on these). Also recommend a PEI plastic right on top of the metal base (included bed covers become damaged quickly).

    #6 4 years ago
    Quoted from tmontana:

    I have a bunch of different brands and have found this to be true with all except for one. My Lulzbot mini 2. I've printed hundreds of student creations and have only had one failed print and that was because the student had overhangs and didn't generate a support for it. It's seriously the best lower-mid end model I've ever dealt with.

    Quoted from PinMonk:

    They're not ALL that way. If you pay more for some of the better FDM printers with more preventative features, you can get rid of most of the problems, although the occasional adhesion problem still happens. But it's a SUBSTANTIALLY better experience, so worth it, IMO.
    For FDM type, I recommend the Prusa i3-MK3S with an 0.25 nozzle. I started with Crealty Ender3 printers, but they were just too much hassle, and you had to add things to them to give basic features like auto bed-leveling. Granted, you can buy 3 Ender3 printers for the price of one Prusa MK3S and have money left, but the MK3S is fantastically trouble-free and has a bunch of features you can't get on the Enders, or have to buy and add-on to the Ender3. I eventually ended up changing all the printers over to MK3S printers. Oh, they're also super-quiet. Night and day compared to the Ender3s. In my experience, the Prusaslicer is better than Ultimaker CURA or even paid ones like Simplify3D (which sits unused next to Prusaslicer now). Dunno if that's because it's optimized for PRUSA printers or not, but it puts out very nice prints.

    Depending on how detailed your tabletop characters are, you may not even be able to get good enough prints and would have to go to something like the SL1 SLA printer that uses liquid resin and makes incredibly high-res prints without the layer lines you see on additive filament printers like the Ender3/MK3S. But that's another huge jump in price to over $1700, and a much messier setup with more dangerous fumes in an enclosed space like a room. But the prints are amazing.

    Perhaps the text lacks emphasis. but that was mostly there for humor

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