Quoted from Medisinyl:
They're all finicky, headache inducing machines much of the time. Jams, adhesion issues, leveling, setting adjustments, fire hazards...
They're not ALL that way. If you pay more for some of the better FDM printers with more preventative features, you can get rid of most of the problems, although the occasional adhesion problem still happens. But it's a SUBSTANTIALLY better experience, so worth it, IMO.
For FDM type, I recommend the Prusa i3-MK3S with an 0.25 nozzle. I started with Crealty Ender3 printers, but they were just too much hassle, and you had to add things to them to give basic features like auto bed-leveling. Granted, you can buy 3 Ender3 printers for the price of one Prusa MK3S and have money left, but the MK3S is fantastically trouble-free and has a bunch of features you can't get on the Enders, or have to buy and add-on to the Ender3. I eventually ended up changing all the printers over to MK3S printers. Oh, they're also super-quiet. Night and day compared to the Ender3s. Also, in my experience slicing the models for print, the Prusaslicer is better than Ultimaker CURA or even paid ones like Simplify3D (which sits unused next to Prusaslicer now). Dunno if that's because it's optimized for PRUSA printers or not, but it puts out very nice prints.
Depending on how detailed your tabletop characters are, you may not even be able to get good enough prints and would have to go to something like the SL1 SLA printer that uses liquid resin and makes incredibly high-res prints without the layer lines you see on additive filament printers like the Ender3/MK3S. But that's another huge jump in price to over $1700, and a much messier setup with more dangerous fumes in an enclosed space like a room. But the prints are amazing.