(Topic ID: 252412)

3D printer recommendations


By Clnilsen

18 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 16 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 days ago by vireland
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    #1 18 days ago

    I’m looking to get into trying a 3D printer, but don’t know much about them. I’m interested in printing some pinball parts, some car parts for interiors, and tabletop gaming miniatures. Any recommendations or experiences are appreciated! I’m moderately technically capable, but I’ve never messed with something like this. If it makes any difference, I use apple products as well! Any thoughts are appreciated!

    Thanks!

    #2 18 days ago

    They're all finicky, headache inducing machines much of the time. Jams, adhesion issues, leveling, setting adjustments, fire hazards...

    I currently have 2 CR-10 printers (recommend Creality branded version over the Hictop--I have one of each) and would recommend them with a better glass top and PEI plastic cover (sanded). Many other mods exist that can be 3D printed (levelers, fan assemblies...) or added (metal extruder, hotend, etc.).

    My Monoprice Select V2 is more reliable overall and cheaper (recommended for small projects, but the CR10 and larger versions would be needed for large parts), but needs several connections to be hard soldered to the board and/or a Mosfet board upgrade. Works fine out of the box, but WILL have burnt connections at some point (mine has progressively melted more connections that lead to failure and a fire hazard, and it's a universal issue on these). Also recommend a PEI plastic right on top of the metal base (included bed covers become damaged quickly).

    #3 18 days ago

    I have been quite happy with a Tevo Tornado (basically a Creality CR-10 clone but with 110/230VAC bed heater so it doesnt burn connectors so easily.).

    #4 18 days ago
    Quoted from Medisinyl:

    They're all finicky, headache inducing machines much of the time. Jams, adhesion issues, leveling, setting adjustments, fire hazards...

    I have a bunch of different brands and have found this to be true with all except for one. My Lulzbot mini 2. I've printed hundreds of student creations and have only had one failed print and that was because the student had overhangs and didn't generate a support for it. It's seriously the best lower-mid end model I've ever dealt with.

    #5 18 days ago
    Quoted from Medisinyl:

    They're all finicky, headache inducing machines much of the time. Jams, adhesion issues, leveling, setting adjustments, fire hazards...

    They're not ALL that way. If you pay more for some of the better FDM printers with more preventative features, you can get rid of most of the problems, although the occasional adhesion problem still happens. But it's a SUBSTANTIALLY better experience, so worth it, IMO.

    For FDM type, I recommend the Prusa i3-MK3S with an 0.25 nozzle. I started with Crealty Ender3 printers, but they were just too much hassle, and you had to add things to them to give basic features like auto bed-leveling. Granted, you can buy 3 Ender3 printers for the price of one Prusa MK3S and have money left, but the MK3S is fantastically trouble-free and has a bunch of features you can't get on the Enders, or have to buy and add-on to the Ender3. I eventually ended up changing all the printers over to MK3S printers. Oh, they're also super-quiet. Night and day compared to the Ender3s. Also, in my experience slicing the models for print, the Prusaslicer is better than Ultimaker CURA or even paid ones like Simplify3D (which sits unused next to Prusaslicer now). Dunno if that's because it's optimized for PRUSA printers or not, but it puts out very nice prints.

    Depending on how detailed your tabletop characters are, you may not even be able to get good enough prints and would have to go to something like the SL1 SLA printer that uses liquid resin and makes incredibly high-res prints without the layer lines you see on additive filament printers like the Ender3/MK3S. But that's another huge jump in price to over $1700, and a much messier setup with more dangerous fumes in an enclosed space like a room. But the prints are amazing.

    #6 18 days ago
    Quoted from tmontana:

    I have a bunch of different brands and have found this to be true with all except for one. My Lulzbot mini 2. I've printed hundreds of student creations and have only had one failed print and that was because the student had overhangs and didn't generate a support for it. It's seriously the best lower-mid end model I've ever dealt with.

    Quoted from vireland:

    They're not ALL that way. If you pay more for some of the better FDM printers with more preventative features, you can get rid of most of the problems, although the occasional adhesion problem still happens. But it's a SUBSTANTIALLY better experience, so worth it, IMO.
    For FDM type, I recommend the Prusa i3-MK3S with an 0.25 nozzle. I started with Crealty Ender3 printers, but they were just too much hassle, and you had to add things to them to give basic features like auto bed-leveling. Granted, you can buy 3 Ender3 printers for the price of one Prusa MK3S and have money left, but the MK3S is fantastically trouble-free and has a bunch of features you can't get on the Enders, or have to buy and add-on to the Ender3. I eventually ended up changing all the printers over to MK3S printers. Oh, they're also super-quiet. Night and day compared to the Ender3s. In my experience, the Prusaslicer is better than Ultimaker CURA or even paid ones like Simplify3D (which sits unused next to Prusaslicer now). Dunno if that's because it's optimized for PRUSA printers or not, but it puts out very nice prints.

    Depending on how detailed your tabletop characters are, you may not even be able to get good enough prints and would have to go to something like the SL1 SLA printer that uses liquid resin and makes incredibly high-res prints without the layer lines you see on additive filament printers like the Ender3/MK3S. But that's another huge jump in price to over $1700, and a much messier setup with more dangerous fumes in an enclosed space like a room. But the prints are amazing.

    Perhaps the text lacks emphasis. but that was mostly there for humor

    #7 18 days ago
    Quoted from Medisinyl:

    Perhaps the text lacks emphasis. but that was mostly there for humor

    Text can be an imperfect medium, especially for humor and sarcasm.

    #8 18 days ago

    I have a flashforge creator pro, and a flashforge guider II s. Both enclosed, and the guider has a carbon filter for when you print things like abs that smell. Both easy to use. Guider is a nicer machine, large build volume and wide variety of plastic that can but used. The creator pro can hold its own, smaller build volume but still a decent amount of plastic it can use.

    #9 17 days ago

    I've got a Creality Ender 3 which has been nothing but a joy. I followed a detailed video on youtube on how to put it together to avoid common pitfalls and make sure everything is perfectly square. I have printed tons of stuff on it with no issues.

    The only regret I have is installing the BL touch for auto bed leveling. I thought it was going to be this magic thing not having to level the bed anymore but it ended up being more of a pain than just manually doing it. Maybe there are better products out there but I have to constantly mess with the BL touch to keep the bed level. It just doesn't work that well for me.

    1 week later
    #10 8 days ago
    Quoted from fattdirk:

    I've got a Creality Ender 3 which has been nothing but a joy. I followed a detailed video on youtube on how to put it together to avoid common pitfalls and make sure everything is perfectly square. I have printed tons of stuff on it with no issues.
    The only regret I have is installing the BL touch for auto bed leveling. I thought it was going to be this magic thing not having to level the bed anymore but it ended up being more of a pain than just manually doing it. Maybe there are better products out there but I have to constantly mess with the BL touch to keep the bed level. It just doesn't work that well for me.

    I have the Ender 5 and the BL Touch is the biggest pain in the butt ever to get working proper and STILL I end up with issues even doing a 7x7 bed level mesh

    #11 8 days ago

    If you have an interest in a Prusa i3 MK3 I could work you out a great deal on a fully dialed in new last month unit with 5 hours on it. Sticking with my Raise3D Pro units as a production type model. Prusa is nice but more for tinkering. Like an advanced Lego set in my opinion. Let me know.

    #12 8 days ago
    Quoted from Yelobird:

    If you have an interest in a Prusa i3 MK3 I could work you out a great deal on a fully dialed in new last month unit with 5 hours on it. Sticking with my Raise3D Pro units as a production type model. Prusa is nice but more for tinkering. Like an advanced Lego set in my opinion. Let me know.

    I'm actually running a pair of Prusa's right now. One Mk3 and a Mk3s been super happy with them. Leagues better than my old Rostock Max V2. Plans are to add the MMU2S to the older Mk3 at some point.

    If I had any extra scratch right now I'd be asking how much you want for that one. But at the moment I just can't afford another unit.

    -Hans

    #13 8 days ago
    Quoted from HHaase:

    I'm actually running a pair of Prusa's right now. One Mk3 and a Mk3s been super happy with them. Leagues better than my old Rostock Max V2. Plans are to add the MMU2S to the older Mk3 at some point.
    If I had any extra scratch right now I'd be asking how much you want for that one. But at the moment I just can't afford another unit.
    -Hans

    Let me know anytime. It really is a nice machine with a deep cult following just not really made for a production environment in my view. For making one part runs a great option. They did Amazing with the marketing no doubt just wish for the price they would have invested in some technology and interface. Having to heat the print bed each run just seems goofy to me. And god for bid you get a clog and you need to fully disassemble the entire machine to get it back online. Haven't honestly figured out what the hype is on this model but for the right user I am sure they will love it!

    #14 8 days ago
    Quoted from Yelobird:

    And god for bid you get a clog and you need to fully disassemble the entire machine to get it back online.

    What? You only have to unscrew the extruder tip, heat and push the clogged material through, then unload the filament, clear the tip, and re-attach it. Takes like 2 minutes, tops. I've had one clog in a year across 3 MK3 and MK3S machines, and zero since upgrading to a hardened extruder tip (the "ultimate" one).

    #15 8 days ago
    Quoted from vireland:

    What? You only have to unscrew the extruder tip, heat and push the clogged material through, then unload the filament, clear the tip, and re-attach it. Takes like 2 minutes, tops. I've had one clog in a year across 3 MK3 and MK3S machines, and zero since upgrading to a hardened extruder tip (the "ultimate" one).

    Fair enough I’m just spoiled by the high end units that make every task simple and effortless. Just depends what your planning to use it for I guess. As I do a lot of ABS and Nylon this just didn’t work out for my needs.

    A different level:

    42B5086E-C804-44FA-B819-9EDC10178284 (resized).jpeg
    #16 8 days ago
    Quoted from Yelobird:

    Fair enough I’m just spoiled by the high end units that make every task simple and effortless. Just depends what your planning to use it for I guess. As I do a lot of ABS and Nylon this just didn’t work out for my needs.
    A different level:[quoted image]

    Yeah, I haven't used Nylon in them, so maybe that's a different story. But for ABS and PLA, just changing the extruder tip out to a hardened 0.25mm one rather than the stock softer 0.40mm one makes all the difference. And there's no dual-extruder option for the Prusas (the MMU seems to be a disaster so far, so that's out).

    I totally understand spoiled, though. I'd never go back to an Ender3. Just way too much hassle. The price multiple from the Ender3 to the MK3s is about the same as from the MK3S to the Raise3D Pro2. But if I was going that route, I'd probably move to SLA for the massive resolution bump.

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