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(Topic ID: 92559)

3D Printer options


By toro1966

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 19 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by swinks
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

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    #1 6 years ago

    Hey guys - looking at potentially buying a 3D printer. Was wondering what some of you recommend. Especially those that are already using them to make your mods. Appreciate any info/advice.

    #2 6 years ago

    I have both a Makerbot Thing-o-matic and a reprap Prusa.

    I'm looking at getting a newer model myself as these are already 3 or 4 years old. I was leaning heavily towards the new Makerbot Replicator 5th Gen, but they appear to be having some issues with their new "smart" extruder so I'm still exploring other options.

    Make magazine did a decent sized (ie: full issue) on 3D printers and reviewed quite a few of them, so that might be a good place to start.

    Ultimaker 2 has gotten a good reviews too.

    #3 6 years ago

    Thanks. Anything I should look out for when buying one of these - i.e. what kind of plastic they use, etc?

    #5 6 years ago

    The two I currently have I print with ABS, which is the same stuff Legos are made with.

    But it's fumes are toxic, and ABS generally needs a heated bed or chamber to print successfully as it shrinks more when it cools than PLA.

    PLA is made out of corn and is biodegradable and is non-toxic from my understanding. And it doesn't shrink much when cooling so a heated build plate and chamber is usually not necessary. It does melt at a lower temperature though, so it's generally not used for things that may get hot after printing.

    All of the newer Makerbot stuff is PLA only because it is generally less hassell for it's users. I started with ABS, so I'm not afraid of it, but would prefer not to inhale it's fumes anymore.

    #6 6 years ago

    I would advise actually looking and touching the final product of the any machine you buy. Make sure your happy with it. These final products are 'ridgy' like a nail file and won't produce translucency the same way as molding them. Also consider a 3d scanner which you can get a mocked up part into an image file which can be sent off to Shapeway.com or a similar place and have them print it on a much more sophisticated printer.

    Mike V.

    #7 6 years ago

    I am waiting on a kick starter to start shipping and see some reviews for Rigidbot. The rigigbot big has a 16x12x10 build volume I think for $800 (plus shipping and addons)

    #8 6 years ago

    Choose a machine that can print both PLA and ABS. A heated bed make things a lot easier. Think about the parts you want print. Size your printer to your needs. Ask about print times. A simple flipper bat on some well known printers can take up to 4-1/2 hours. Others can do it in 2 hours.
    Take a look at Lultzbot for large size parts. SeeMecnc.com for Delta bots. You can save some $$$ and buy a 3D printer in kit form.
    If you are thinking about Makerbot, read the fourms about their return policy/customer support.

    #9 6 years ago

    I had a form 1 and it is pretty badass. it is a resin based printer that prints very high resolution.
    formlabs.com

    #10 6 years ago

    I'm still waiting for the market to calm down. Seems like every month there's a new kickstarter startup.

    A smaller company can be good because you can get a printer for under $250, but then you have to think about support (and of all the professional 3d printers I've used over the years, they do develop issues). One thing you want to be sure of is that the spools aren't proprietary (can use a standard spool) otherwise material will kill you on cost.

    #11 6 years ago

    Find a 3d printing co-op. You can get access to better equipment than you could otherwise. CNC machines I think would be a lot better for pinball stuff because you can make stuff out of stronger plastic. CNC is way underrated

    #12 6 years ago
    Quoted from StrangelovePhD:

    Find a 3d printing co-op. You can get access to better equipment than you could otherwise

    Yes, this.. use a place like shapeways.com, or if you're on a budget find a local guy that prints from his home:
    http://www.makexyz.com/

    #13 6 years ago
    Quoted from toyotaboy:

    Yes, this.. use a place like shapeways.com, or if you're on a budget find a local guy that prints from his home:
    http://www.makexyz.com/

    Depending on how much infill you use, just the cost of the material is around 3 cents. You'll see guys on makexyz that will print for $0.12 per cm3. Those guys aren't going to help you with your model but a lot of people who want to start a hobby business are printing almost for free.

    3 weeks later
    #14 6 years ago

    This was just posted to a 3D Printer thing I've been following. Where one of the other 3D printer efforts is in a death spiral (MakiBox A6)

    

    Being a negative nancy for a second.. wondering when we're going to see one of these from one of the many botique pinball efforts. Sounds like this guy has a cashflow problem.

    #15 6 years ago
    Quoted from sd_tom:

    This was just posted to a 3D Printer thing I've been following

    I almost bought one of those, glad I didn't. I don't understand how you don't have funding to ship them out unless like he seems to be saying, he banked on funding that didn't come through, and he already spent what he had on units (hence ran out of money because he didn't balance things). At the same time, if you plop money down, which should cover the cost of the unit + shipping, how do you run out of money in the first place?

    #16 6 years ago

    I use one of the Flashforge printers. The dual extruders are nice for always being able to have 2 colors loaded, but it doesn't work well for printing two colors at once like you'd think. Also, while the price is much cheaper than other comparable options, you're using web communities for support. The support guy in China is nice and helpful but sometimes things are a bit lost in translation.

    I always print in PLA with it and have been happy with the results. There was a lot of learning! The quality of the plastic also matters. I've been buying from makergeeks.com and their stuff is awesome (and from MO).

    amazon.com link »

    #17 6 years ago

    So a couple weeks ago I bought my 3rd 3D printer, a Makerbot Replicator 2.

    Things have come a long way since I started with a Makerbot Thing-o-matic kit, then building a reprap Prusa, and now this guy.

    My first two were pretty much ABS printers exclusively, this Replicator 2 is basically PLA exclusively unless you do a few upgrades to it.

    Quite impressed with it's prints right out of the box, and if you put Sailfish firmware on it, it's even more wicked.

    Defineatly a different experience buying it from a local store too, Microcenter, instead of a kit.

    Overall quite impressed with it so far.

    They've released their 5th Gen replicators now, but I've been hearing lots of extruder issues with them, so the 4th Gen, which is more user serviceable and upgradable was the best choice for me.

    #18 6 years ago
    Quoted from pkiefert:

    My first two were pretty much ABS printers exclusively, this Replicator 2 is basically PLA exclusively unless you do a few upgrades to it.
    Quite impressed with it's prints right out of the box, and if you put Sailfish firmware on it, it's even more wicked.
    Defineatly a different experience buying it from a local store too, Microcenter, instead of a kit.
    Overall quite impressed with it so far.

    I have been very impressed with my Replicator 2. I've had to do lots of upgrades (bottleworks heated bed, aluminum arms, aluminum extruder, etc) but the print quality is great once you get it dialed in.

    I still need to try Sailfish.

    #19 6 years ago

    I have been impressed with my rep 2, but like Chrisvw I added the aluminium arms and a glass bed which aided in print quality. But like many other people between 250 - 300 hours I had issues with the x axis and narrowed down to the x axis cable being pinched (printer design problem) which even the experts could not solve or didn't want to acknowledge. I did a cut and re-join of the cable but changed the cable route and the printer has been doing faultless high quality printing now for the next 200 hours. I would recommend this mod (cable re-routing) if getting one before getting to the 250 - 300 hour mark.

    here is my mod
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:262166

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