(Topic ID: 276163)

3D Modeling Question

By GPS

3 years ago



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#1 3 years ago

Ok, bear with me. Not a expert in this field, hence my questions.

Was working on my CV this eve and noticed that while the back box “animated box” is in decent shape, it would be nice to see what would be involved to 3D model a new plastic box that the lights mount in as well as the motor and ball etc.
the machine I am working on had incandescents in it as it probably did it’s entire life and the heat did not do the plastic any favors. I am sure that this is a common issue in this area of the game.

So, 3D gurus, what would we be looking at to duplicate this part?

Thank you

George

#2 3 years ago
Quoted from GPS:

3D model a new plastic box that the lights mount in as well as the motor and ball etc

Someone would need to 2d scan the back (possibly the front too) in sections, something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/HP-ScanJet-4600-Flatbed-Hi-Speed/dp/B0000DIODD/ref=sr_1_3

I could photo-merge them, then trace it and create a 3d model. That plastic box is most likely vacuum formed (based on the shape, and low cost for an object that big). I would want to 3d print it in sections and glue them together to test fit before pulling the trigger on a mold.

I do have one of these scanners.

cvbell2 (resized).jpgcvbell2 (resized).jpg
#3 3 years ago

Again, bear with me. So you could not use a 3D printer to make the plastic box, only a mold that would then be used to make it? Sound like that would be a lot more costly as opposed to just 3D printing it if possible. I would want to make some improvements to the original design. Is this something that you’re capable of doing?

#4 3 years ago

3d printing something that big would have to be done in pieces (my professional printer at work couldn't even handle something that big), which would be a challenge to make strong for a final part. Also thermoplastics would have better wear properties than FDM printer material. I wouldn't 3d print a mold, I would 3d print it as-is in chunks (and glue together) just to check fit. Once you know it's good, you could send that 3d model to a vendor that would CNC a mold and make as many parts as you want. Chuck Emery from spooky has both an in-house vacuum former and CNC to make the molds.

Once the original is 3d modeled, I'm sure I could make any improvements you need (within reason)

#5 3 years ago

I agree with toyotaboy , and use a 3d printer to proof the design in pieces as that is large component and then get it routed out and from there could vacuum form and then machine out the holes.

as for home 3d printers the plastic is not great with heat and would warp in areas of bulbs (incandescent), so process 3 printers would be better and can alot more heat and is solid but even professional printers are not larger enough and would cost a bomb.
https://www.shapeways.com/materials/versatile-plastic

#6 3 years ago

I had a congo at one stage that had this type of backbox panel at the plastic that they used will age and get brittle in time. If I were to model this I would get someone to measure from the back all the holes in a X and Y all from one corner so to be more accurate and wouldn't bother with scanning. It is a easy design once you have the dimensions.

here are some other pics to help the cause.
image_110538.jpgimage_110538.jpgimage_110548.jpgimage_110548.jpg

#7 3 years ago

I think a homemade vacuforming set up would make these relatively easily. Build a box around the part, line it with saran wrap, fill it with plaster of paris to make a cast. There are articles on Pinside and elsewhere about vacuforming that would give details. Then flip the mold over and put a sheet of the appropriate kind of thermoplastic over it. Apply heat (heat gun or ?) and suction (it sits on a sheet of pegboard - you make some kind of manifold box under the pegboard and use a shop vac for suction) and pull the soft plastic down against the mold . Trim it out, cut out the speaker holes with an X-acto, maybe use some kind of leather punch to punch out the light bulb holes.
There are probably some ramp-makers on Pinside that know a lot more about this that could share some info and tell us if it's as easy as I think it is.
I would make a mold like a ring that had a big hole in the middle where the bulbs are. When it's dry, put a piece of pegboard in the hole to allow airflow to suck the plastic sheet down against the mold.

#8 3 years ago
Quoted from DCP:

I think a homemade vacuforming set up would make these relatively easily. Build a box around the part, line it with saran wrap, fill it with plaster of paris to make a cast. There are articles on Pinside and elsewhere about vacuforming that would give details. Then flip the mold over and put a sheet of the appropriate kind of thermoplastic over it. Apply heat (heat gun or ?) and suction (it sits on a sheet of pegboard - you make some kind of manifold box under the pegboard and use a shop vac for suction) and pull the soft plastic down against the mold . Trim it out, cut out the speaker holes with an X-acto, maybe use some kind of leather punch to punch out the light bulb holes.

Vacuum forming is not as easy as you think. I've worked with vendors and you are constantly fighting wrinkles on corners (even on professional machines that have much higher heating elements and higher suction). I've thought about making a system, but there are 2 pinsiders on here making ramps (and spooky pinball isn't terribly far away).

Quoted from DCP:

There are probably some ramp-makers on Pinside that know a lot more about this that could share some info and tell us if it's as easy as I think it is.

Neither of those pinsiders have a vacuum forming system large enough for a backbox, I've followed both of their threads. Freeplay keeps talking about getting his larger system up, but he's so busy making smaller ramps (and dealing with life) I don't know if that's ever going to happen.

1 year later
#9 1 year ago

Someone up for forming these backbox pans?

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