3 years of work in one post ... my Bride of Pinbot

(Topic ID: 128550)

3 years of work in one post ... my Bride of Pinbot


By MT45

3 years ago



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  • 64 posts
  • 34 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by MT45
  • Topic is favorited by 12 Pinsiders

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There are 64 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
30
#1 3 years ago

Bride of Pinbot: Restored!

I love this game. I just spent months rebuilding, repairing, repainting and remaking my Bride from scratch. $2,300 in parts alone. So, yes, I am biased as you wouldn't do this unless you loved the game. Airbrush hand painted/touched up the play field, added new pops/switches, new clear coat, new ramps, new sling parts, new rubber, new helmet, new glass, new flipper mechs, new LEDs, new apron decals, new plunger mech, new gates, wires, glass, subwoofer, legs, coil sleeves, and more. Tore it down to bare play field and started from scratch. It's now done and looks/plays like new again.

I literally tore it down piece by piece and rebuilt it to almost new condition. I literally can't believe how much harder the game is with fresh parts. The pops sound like machine guns and the slings are faster than my eyes are! I can tell that of all the games I've played, I've never played one "as new" ... and it sure makes a big difference.

I own 11 games and have played a total of 34 including many top 25 games over just the past year. BOP is one of my faves. It's fast, it's beautiful, it's got a very clear "mission" (build the machine) and the music and sound is arguably a perfect match to the theme. Double entendre are everywhere and are both purposeful in their incorporation and just subtle enough that 99% of youngsters (and honestly most adults who did not have them pointed out) would never "get it". The voicing and quality of the sounds (for a pin this age) is outstanding. You can really hear the Machine/Brides voice and call-outs easily.

Highly recommend to anyone on the fence on LEDs for this one, just DO it! It looks fabulous outfitted with the full LED set with only the back box suffering a little for the changeover. I will likely source and place some much warmer whites for mine.

One of the few pins I've payed that allows almost every "trick in the book" flipper skill that I know. Easy to pass the ball from left flipper to right. By cradling, then short flick into the base of the sling to bounce it right over to the right flipper in order to then drive the shuttle ramp. The in lanes on both sides allow you to pass from flipper to flipper and bounce passes also work well on both sides.

Love the way the lights and sounds react when you run the loops at least 4x. Nice light and sound show as it really makes you feel like you accomplished something! The subwoofer upgrade made a big difference in being able to hear and feel the lower registers.

The pop bumpers are tight up in the corner so be prepared for lighting fast movement up there. Sounds and feels perfect each time. I added the pop bumper LED rings and really like the way they light up the playfield.

Other mods are the addition of 3 small astronauts from a shuttle playset (see images). Also converted the pops and GI lighting to purple. Added a custom cut piece of mylar back into the pops area (it's brutal up there on BOP).

Advice FWIW? Just pay somebody to do this for you (insert smiley here). If you decide not to follow my advice ... take notes, take pictures, baggie everything and write your best description of what it was on the baggie. Take your time, walk away if getting frustrated. Take no shortcuts cause it will cost you later. Buy the proper equipment, especially if working with clearcoats.

So I put final clearcoat on last weekend and put it all back together (25 hours from a blank playfield). Plugged all my marked wires back in and ... I could not believe it, it came on! I literally played a game! Still some minor tweaks like adding the big shuttle mod but as far as I'm concerned, I'm done!

Attached are many before and after pics. 99% of the work I did, I learned from Vids playfield restoration thread and some great folks on there. Special shout out and thanks to them all. No way I could have done it without you guys.

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#2 3 years ago

wow

#3 3 years ago

This is amazing! Nice job and........is it for sale? Just kidding. I really would love to find me a BOP.

#4 3 years ago

Great!

#5 3 years ago

Looks really nice. Well done. What type buffer did you use? random orbit electric, air tool foam pads?

#6 3 years ago

Great job, I'd like to do the same to mine someday.

#7 3 years ago

Hey Chet - sander was air powered (cheap one from Harbor). The buffer I used is a Rigid brand 2,700 RPM drill with the Treasure Cove attachments. Use the foam pads for every grit polish until you get to machine glaze, then switch to wool pad for a high shine. PM me if you want further details

Treasure Cove kit here
http://www.treasurecovepinball.com/polishing-kit.htm

Rigid drill here
http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-3-8-in-8-Amp-Corded-Drill-Driver-R70011/100546220?MERCH=REC-_-NavPLPHorizontal1_rr-_-NA-_-100546220-_-N

#8 3 years ago

I like what you've done there!

#10 3 years ago

Just did this with my pinbot, minus 2 years and 10 months more work. But you have the right idea. Chip away at it slowly. Do it right. Haste makes waste. I rush because that is my personality, I need instant gratification. If these restore jobs lately have taught me anything, it is to take my time with everything to get it right the first time. You've got patience.

#11 3 years ago

If there is one pin that deserves the FULL restore job....it's BOP!!!

The machine is a beauty to look at afterwards....and this one is a shining example. Grats dude!!

#12 3 years ago

Had some folks ask about the little astronauts ...

They are here:
amazon.com link »

#13 3 years ago

Looks great!

#14 3 years ago

With 3 years in the making, I am sure you have lots of stories to tell. Your hard work and perseverance has paid off. Awesome job. Looks fantastic.

#15 3 years ago

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#16 3 years ago

Thought I'd post the step by step. I kept a running expenditure list too but it's painful to read :-/

BOP Repair step by step:

DONE: New coat of paint on steel face frame left
DONE: JB weld the steel ramp flap areas (4 holes)
DONE: Polish all steel ball guides
DONE: Replace bulbs with LED set from Cointaker
DONE: Replace all rubber and red mini-posts on mini-PF
DONE: Head edges paint peeling
DONE: Side rails rusty and were replaced
DONE: Lock down bar rusty top and bottom, polish and decal
DONE: Dirty apron scratched and re-decal
DONE: Wash/vaccum inside cab
DONE: replace right eye switch in head (missing trigger wire)
DONE: Fix light string on Pinbot body
DONE: Replace legs & added pin cab protectors
DONE: Rebuild lower popper bumper out (not firing)
DONE: Relamp all pop-bumpers (dark)
DONE: Wash coin mech (has metallic corrosion)
DONE: Wash operator pad (greasy)
DONE: Front right side coin door (hole in cab, fill int)
DONE: Paint coin door (chipped rusty)
DONE: Repair bayonet coin door light
DONE: Rebuild, replace shooter rod
DONE: Replace shooter rod chrome housing
DONE: Polish inserts after mylar removal
DONE: Repair back box bonus light string that is out (except last light)
DONE: Lock down mech rusty (brass brush to shine)
DONE: Replace cabinet head hinge bolts
DONE: Fill large elliptical hole with JB weld
DONE: Fill all lane guide holes with JB weld
DONE: Polish all tall steel posts
DONE: Q-tip polish & clean all electronics in face
DONE: Polish all steel parts in face
DONE: Pull roller guides from face frame (stuck), free up, polish and replace
DONE: Add decals set to hearbeat ramp
DONE: Add decals set to shuttle ramp
DONE: Pull all switches and replace on brand new shuttle ramp (required resoldering)
DONE: Pull all switches and replace on brand new heartbeat ramp
DONE: Polish and clean machine face, free up and polish 3 bearings
DONE: Remove old screen graphics from apron and add new decal, polish apron rail
DONE: Clean and restore round skill shot rubbers (5 total of GS-BOP23-6654)
DONE: Polish and rust removal lockdown mechanism
DONE: Replace 3 old/bent and corroded round red targets (solder in place)
DONE: Magic eraser grimy spots on PF
DONE: Black spray paint the left head shroud
DONE: Black spray paint the right head shroud (at mini PF)
DONE: polish all steel ball guide sets (12 total)
DONE: Drop all 3 sling switch sets, polish copper switches
DONE: Drop tall center post to allow CC of PF
DONE: Pull sign behind min PF and polish legs
DONE: Polish habitrails (2)
DONE: …wait one whole year before doing anything else…
DONE: Repaint (airbrush) chest lane rainbow areas
DONE: Sand clean all holes and switch slots
DONE: Pull old plastic cover and replace on left habit rail
DONE: Repair light bars in helmet, add LEDs, add missing spacers
DONE: Mark, photograph and disconnect PF from back box for removal
DONE: Clean play field using naphtha and magic eraser
DONE: Order purple 44 bulbs for GI from LED (backordered)
DONE: Drill & pin ball gate wire at top of skill shot to stop from falling out
DONE: Color match using acetates and naptha: Red/Orange/D&L Blue/White/Yellow/Gray/Black
DONE: Airbrush both multicolor half moon areas (red/orange/white/blue)
DONE: Frisket cover and cutout astronauts, Williams logo and shuttle
DONE: Airbrush gray areas around robot hips/legs (large)
DONE: Hand paint grays and blues in upper PF (25K/50K/100K)
DONE: Hand paint all insert seams and cracks
DONE: Airbrush bright blue areas on robot legs and over switch slot areas
DONE: Hand paint touch up all black wear areas
DONE: Airbrush white strips in outlanes both left and right
DONE: Frisket cover, cut and then airbrush the robot "feet" (white)
DONE: Hand paint narrow white and blue lines on both outlanes
DONE: Hand paint blue vents on each robot hip
DONE: Pull ball trough switch plate and sand polish corrosion
DONE: Zip tie all loose switches under playfield
DONE: Buy parts and build a playfield rotisserie
DONE: Buy parts to spray Clear Coat 2pac
DONE: Handpaint shuttle body white
DONE: Hand sand the edges of "Williams" copyright
DONE: Mount playfield on rotisserie
DONE: Airbrush farthest outlines gray
DONE: Hand paint gray on shuttle body
DONE: Screw mount PF to rotisserie
DONE: Remove large VUK
DONE: Install subwoofer
DONE: Clean upper speaker panel
DONE: Remove and clean rear metal vents
DONE: Rusty outside play field  bolts (repaint)
DONE: Spray cab sidewalls black (cover scratches)
DONE: Remove and clean flipper buttons
DONE: Rebuild Pop bumpers new sleeves, new lower bracket
DONE: Heat shrink seal frayed wire on J106 IDC connector
DONE: Replace burned IDC connector on mother board at J121
DONE: Complete rebuild flippers stops/shafts/springs/solder in new EOS switches
DONE: Polish lock down bar, remove old and install new beer seal
DONE: Re-sleeve, wash every solenoid under playfield
DONE: Desolder, clean, polish ball mechanism, remove from playfield top
DONE: Clean, polish ball sensor switch, remove and bag
DONE: …wait for at least 6 months before doing anything else …
DONE: Plumb up HVLP gun and air compressor
DONE: Sand off bad extra ball art
DONE: Paint black spots lifted by Orsamask
DONE: Dremel out every switch and post hole to prevent CC fisheye
DONE: Tape reverse of playfield, plug all holes and bulbs to prep for CC
DONE: Set up paint booth, put on protective gear and add first coat of clear coat
DONE: …wait 6 months to do anything because of cold weather
DONE: Sand playfield with 800 grit to knockdown ridges at heartbeat areas and flatten PF
DONE: Add "Extra Ball" waterslide to right side of PF, paint black line on shuttle, rocket red dots
DONE: Set up paint booth, add 2nd and 3rd coats of clear- fix fisheyes with eyedropper
DONE: Spot sand fisheye areas using block and 1000 grit paper
DONE: Power sand entire PF, using 1500 grit sandpaper
DONE: Power sand entire PF using 2000 grit sandpaper
DONE: Power buff entire PF using Novus 2
DONE: Power polish entire PF using Meguiar's Machine glaze
DONE: Wipe clean all lamp sockets and switch slots, remove blue tape
DONE: Put it all bac together (25 hours over 2 days)
Play some pinball!

#17 3 years ago

Looks awesome great work

#18 3 years ago

Nice, nice job! Congratulations.
Wally

#19 3 years ago

Wow! Thanks for sharing!

#20 3 years ago

Great Job! Congrats and Enjoy!

#21 3 years ago

I like your idea of taking long breaks in between, gives you a chance to return with a fresh set of eyes. If I had more space, I'd probably do that as well.

#22 3 years ago

friggin gorgeous, every little detail!

I'd bet its fantastic to play and a video might show the differences to people who know how a typical BOP machine behaves, no doubting what you've done being tons livelier.

#23 3 years ago

WOwe - that is gorgeous!

#24 3 years ago

A few folks were asking for a video of gameplay. I've done a few and here is the first. Ignore my crappy playing
One of the things you'll notice is how fast it plays ow with all new sleeves, pops and flipper mechs ... wow, it's way harder to play than it was!
It's in HD 1080p if you select that option in youtube

#25 3 years ago

Something happened to the vid, it went out of focus about 20 seconds in.

#26 3 years ago

I just watched fom this link and it was focused all the way thru. I'll replace it if someone can confirm it's hosed up

#27 3 years ago

Vid is perfect for me and wow what a labor of love. Enjoy!

#28 3 years ago

Thanks TDK, appreciate that ... here is the next Vid I shot.

#29 3 years ago

Great job, well done. Now you can enjoy the game after all your hard work.

#30 3 years ago

dang she's a meannie, watched PAPA video of gameplay as comparison, it seemed much more tame.
he was doing better with sends to right flipper for face ramp shots, your redo work looks like it doesnt give time to get control like that as often.. it's fast!

#31 3 years ago

something ive noticed in your video.. there seems to be a delay with the ball going from the skill shot to the pop bumpers. my bride doesnt have this delay running L-6. any thoughts ?

#32 3 years ago
Quoted from zizzlemeplease:

dang she's a meannie, watched PAPA video of gameplay as comparison, it seemed much more tame.
he was doing better with sends to right flipper for face ramp shots, your redo work looks like it doesnt give time to get control like that as often.. it's fast!

You were able to see EXACTLY what it feels like to play it now ... it's got no mercy!

#33 3 years ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

something ive noticed in your video.. there seems to be a delay with the ball going from the skill shot to the pop bumpers. my bride doesnt have this delay running L-6. any thoughts ?

Hey ... thanks for reminding me about something I noticed when reassembling. The very first switch ahead of the sling in the skill channel seemed to be non-functional. I'll check next time I fire it up and see. The delay may be the game recognizing that the skill shot was completed (the ball hit the scoring switch on way back down to the skill sling) but is getting no feedback from the first switch, so it simply launches after period of a few seconds. The eye switches will do the same if they get broken. Thanks for the heads up.

#34 3 years ago

That is beautiful.

#35 3 years ago

Finished the hero card for my BOP.

Below is link to my earlier post explaining what they are ...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinball-hero-cards

Bride.jpg

#36 3 years ago

I notice on your cards, the backglass photo does not show any scoring areas, obviously BOP doesn't have one but are all the others like that or are you filling in the missing part of the graphics?

#37 3 years ago

lol forgot to mention.. the lighting on yours is totally great too!

#38 3 years ago
Quoted from mark532011:

I notice on your cards, the backglass photo does not show any scoring areas, obviously BOP doesn't have one but are all the others like that or are you filling in the missing part of the graphics?

Great question. I actually do have one with scoring area in the image because it's part of the backglass - All my other machines do not have scoring in the bg, but rather either below it in an alpha display or below it in a dmd - see my DES card below...

DES.jpg

#39 3 years ago

With that much uv you need glo-balls. ModMyPin.com

#40 3 years ago

NICE BOP!

#41 3 years ago

Fantastic work!

Do you recommend the pinball pro speaker now that you've been using it in BOP?

I have a BOP and loved the sounds so I was considering upgrading the speakers.

#42 3 years ago

This is truly a labour of love. Well done.

#43 3 years ago

Anyone ever figure out why Pinbot is marrying such a strumpet?

#44 3 years ago
Quoted from Det_Deckard:

Anyone ever figure out why Pinbot is marrying such a strumpet?

Because she's hot and has an amazing voice.

#46 3 years ago

Great job

#47 3 years ago
Quoted from Geocab:

Fantastic work!
Do you recommend the pinball pro speaker now that you've been using it in BOP?
I have a BOP and loved the sounds so I was considering upgrading the speakers.

I need to play with the settings a little more. I'll post back later

#48 3 years ago
Quoted from Geocab:

Fantastic work!
Do you recommend the pinball pro speaker now that you've been using it in BOP?
I have a BOP and loved the sounds so I was considering upgrading the speakers.

i had these in my FUNHOUSE which the same as BOP and i thought they sounded like crap ! i went back to the oem set up.

#49 3 years ago

the speakers I like are the inexpensive (not junk) very efficient paper cone cloth surround woofers from MCMelectronics.com, typically 94+ db from the 1st watt of power input for 8-ohm voicecoils is a lot of bark, even if the original was 4-ohm thats tough to beat.
you can get bigger thump from same amp, and it's running cooler doing it.

my experience is running them with small power 12v Lepai audio amps, about on par with whats inside most pinball machines. with small power, speaker efficiency is everything!
backbox speakers are likely decent enough, so it's about 15-20 bucks for a better 8-10" woofer that might get some people wondering how theres so much bass without external sub..
(especially if you can slip one of their 10's or 12's in there)

#50 3 years ago
Quoted from zizzlemeplease:

the speakers I like are the inexpensive (not junk) very efficient paper cone cloth surround woofers from MCMelectronics.com, typically 94+ db from the 1st watt of power input for 8-ohm voicecoils is a lot of bark, even if the original was 4-ohm thats tough to beat.
you can get bigger thump from same amp, and it's running cooler doing it.
my experience is running them with small power 12v Lepai audio amps, about on par with whats inside most pinball machines. with small power, speaker efficiency is everything!
backbox speakers are likely decent enough, so it's about 15-20 bucks for a better 8-10" woofer that might get some people wondering how theres so much bass without external sub..
(especially if you can slip one of their 10's or 12's in there)

Thanks for that. Wondering if you have installed one of these in a BOP or similar? If so, does it need the blue resistors that were on my old woofer or is it a straight "wire in"?

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