(Topic ID: 257859)

3 things I learned about my Hakko FR-300 desolder gun.


By cottonm4

59 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 11 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 59 days ago by DumbAss
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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    #1 59 days ago

    First, The FR-300 was discontinued effective March 20th,2018. Replacement/repair parts are only guaranteed for 3 years. And we are already 18 months into that 3 year guarantee.

    I just bought a couple of extra nozzles. I may buy a new heating element, too.

    Once these parts are gone your FR-300 will be junk if you have no replacement parts.

    Screen Shot 2019-12-20 at 9.18.39 AM (resized).png

    The replacement for the FR-300 is the FR-301. Parts will not interchange.

    https://www.hakkousa.com/products/desoldering/hakko-fr-300-desoldering-tool.html

    Spare parts or the FR-300

    https://www.hakkousa.com/products/desoldering/hakko-fr-300-desoldering-tool.html
    =================================================================

    Second, I bought my Hakko as a refurbished unit. It did not come with instructions. What I learned is that you are suppose to wet sponge the nozzle just as you sponge a soldering tip. You are also supposed to sponge and add a dab of solder to the nozzle as you would a solder tip. Doing these two items sure did help with my desolder task.

    If you already knew this---BRAVO. If you did not know, give it a try on your next desolder job. You will be glad you did.
    ==============================================

    Three,

    My Hakko seemed to be slowing down in the vacuuming-the-solder-away department. I replaced my filters regularly and made sure my nozzles were clean but the vacuum action was substandard. Here is why:

    The clear vacuum tube located under the yellow cover was clogged with solder. I don't know how the solder gets past the ceramic filter but it does. So, if your your solder vacuum seems lackluster, check this tube. If it is full of solder, unplug it from your gun and run a small nail or drill bit through it to clean it out. Replace. And your vacuum action will improve tremendously.

    IMG_2607 (resized).jpg

    #2 59 days ago

    Oh it's the greatest thing ever

    #3 59 days ago

    There is still plenty of distributors for parts. China is also making replacement tips and from reports they are pretty good quality.

    Here are a few good threads that I have frequented over on KLOV. They cover a lot of solutions to common issues with desoldering. Some of which you mentioned.

    https://forums.arcade-museum.com/sho...d.php?t=451957
    https://forums.arcade-museum.com/sho...d.php?t=421210
    https://forums.arcade-museum.com/sho...d.php?t=413194
    https://forums.arcade-museum.com/sho...d.php?t=393060

    Here are a couple of common parts to grab too:

    filters - https://www.bdent.com/hakko-a5044.html

    Pin for cleaning - https://www.zoro.com/hakko-cleaning-...87/i/G0707817/

    Thanks
    Blake

    #4 59 days ago
    Quoted from Blake:

    There is still plenty of distributors for parts. China is also making replacement tips and from reports they are pretty good quality.
    Here are a few good threads that I have frequented over on KLOV. They cover a lot of solutions to common issues with desoldering. Some of which you mentioned.
    https://forums.arcade-museum.com/sho...d.php?t=451957
    https://forums.arcade-museum.com/sho...d.php?t=421210
    https://forums.arcade-museum.com/sho...d.php?t=413194
    https://forums.arcade-museum.com/sho...d.php?t=393060
    Here are a couple of common parts to grab too:
    filters - https://www.bdent.com/hakko-a5044.html
    Pin for cleaning - https://www.zoro.com/hakko-cleaning-...87/i/G0707817/
    Thanks
    Blake

    I appreciate the links but the 4 links for forums.arcade seem to be dead links. Do you have another source for them, please?

    #5 59 days ago

    Glad my 808 is still going strong!

    #6 59 days ago
    Quoted from cottonm4:

    I appreciate the links but the 4 links for forums.arcade seem to be dead links. Do you have another source for them, please?

    Looks like they were just copied incorrectly; the shortened text, rather than the full url.

    https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=451957
    https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=421210
    https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=413194
    https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=393060

    #7 59 days ago

    I bought a FR-301 a few months ago and I absolutely love the thing. Previously I couldn't remove chips from a board without cutting the legs off. I've had to still cut a few with the FR-301 but it's not frequent at all and that's strictly because I'm probably not that good soldering/desoldering.

    #9 59 days ago

    Excellent tips for us newbies! Thank you!

    #10 59 days ago
    Quoted from Nikrox2:

    Excellent tips for us newbies! Thank you!

    One other item I learned the hard way. The size of tip you use for a job is important.

    I have two sizes of tips. I have a 1mm tip for the smaller connector pins. I also have a tip for the larger .156 connector pins. DO NOT try to remove the smaller connector pins with the .156. It just does not work well, at all.

    Also, for the newbies, find and read the instructions on how to heat up and remove the solder. It is real easy to overheat a pin and you can fry the traces and pads right off of your board; Then you have the opportunity to learn how to repair traces and pads and your other screw ups.

    #11 59 days ago
    Quoted from cottonm4:

    So, if your your solder vacuum seems lackluster, check this tube. If it is full of solder, unplug it from your gun and run a small nail or drill bit through it to clean it out. Replace. And your vacuum action will improve tremendously.

    I have also seen flux gum up the diaphragm beyond the tube. I have cleaned the diaphragm twice and each time I clean it the tool behaves just like new. It is a small job to clean it but I recommend doing that periodically.

    Quoted from cottonm4:

    The size of tip you use for a job is important. I have two sizes of tips. I have a 1mm tip for the smaller connector pins. I also have a tip for the larger .156 connector pins. DO NOT try to remove the smaller connector pins with the .156. It just does not work well, at all.

    I can attest to this. I generally use the 1.0mm tip and pretty much only use the 1.6mm tip for the 0.156" connector pins, bridge rectifiers and snap-in radial capacitors.

    Don't forget to drill out the nozzles as well to keep them clear of debris.

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