I have a WH2O and noticed that three flashers in the game don’t work. They happen to be three in a row. Not sure where to start other than confirming that it’s not the bulb.
Yes. They are regular 89’s. Just checked the connector going back to the board and confirmed that the wires are punched down in there correct slots. Maybe transistors?
Haven’t done voltage test yet from the socket.
The three that are causing me problems tie into J126. I have confirmed that others on J126 work.
Look in your manual,inside cover,usually,those flashers will have a transistor tip number. Find them on the driver. Diode test the legs of each.Should be between .5-.8 .Any other reading
means replace. They are cheap. Check all connections on the sockets,make sure they are seperrated,usual cause.
OK. Good. No power at the socket lugs.
...blown fuse as noted above. Top center of the driver board has five fuses. Remove each one and buzz it. Those are 3ASB fuses.
...break in the daisy chain wiring to those lamps. Easy test. Meter on continuity. Buzz from a non working flasher to either a working flasher with identical wire color or to the header connection on the driver board. BTW-if some flashers powered by that wire work, then the fuses are fine.
...this is NOT a transistor issue. Lack of power to the sockets is the issue.
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info
Ok. I will check these things. I will say what’s interesting about the daisy chain is that a flasher works after those three non working flashers. I would think that if that was the problem, wouldn’t nothing work after those three? Bigfoot Cave works.
Yes...if those flashers were actually wired AFTER the working flashers, that would be quite a situation.
But, the way that the coils and flashers are documented, and numbered, in the manual, is not the way that they are wired in the actual game. Wiring in the actual game follows the path that yields the least amount of wiring, complexity, and cost. Flasher number 20 may be wired upstream of flasher number 19.
Now that I see the documentation, combined with your comment at some flashers work, we can deduce this.
...all flashers receive power from J107-6.
...since some work and some do not work, a fuse isn't the problem. The connection at the power/driver board isn't the problem either.
...the wiring almost certainly has a break in the daisy chain.
The break in the daisy can occur in several ways.
...one of the power wires (that will look like two wires at the solder lug) has broken free from the other wire/solder lug (most common)
...a crimp in a molex connection that crimps two power wires into the same crimp may have failed.
...an actual break in the wire. This is the least probable, and hardest to find.
Examine the wires at all =working= flashers. Most of them will have two wires leading to one solder tab. Theoretically, the last socket in the daisy chain will have a single wire. That's because there are no more lamps to power. In actuality, this isn't often the case. A couple/few of the lamps may have a single wire going to them. Again, it depends on the most economical way to wire a game.
Ok, so after looking at all the connectors again closely, I found a red wire that was loose inside the molex connector. How do I get crimped back in?
I got it working. Used the same connector but spliced the red wire, solder, and electric tape it. Thanks everyone for your help.
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