Should run you about 60.00 at a glass shop or this place has a good price, if the dimensions are the same.

https://www.hollandcomputers.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=8147&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=1o1&scid=scplpRA-COCKTAIL-GL-4&sc_intid=RA-COCKTAIL-GL-4&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgLi8yqnm3wIVAxBpCh2j1QrfEAQYASABEgIBxfD_BwE

That's fucking brilliant right there.

Make a Bubble Bobble cab and I'm buying for my wife.

one of the few arcade cabs i regret selling

I'd buy it in a second.

I have a PCB for it, but not a spare cab to really use it in, too many other higher priority games that get used running.

I can't quite figure out the arcade1up mechanism for holding the plexi in place on the cocktails. Looking at pics, are those 4 thumb screws? Do they stick out above the plexi? Don't standard cocktail cabs use some kind of edge bracket/clips? Maybe if converting to glass you'd be able to convert to edge clips, but I would think getting glass to the exact specs with screw holes might end up being more complicated and costly.

Edit: there are pics in this post with a side view of the SF2 cocktail cab. It appears to me that it does have raised thumb screws:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/299-new-arcade-cabinets-street-fighter-centipede-tempest-/page/31#post-4777967

I see a mistake on that SF2 cocktail. On the tabletop artwork, the red box that says "play as a boss" is cut off. Hopefully that's fixed before release.

Should be easy to convert

IMAG0357 (resized).jpg

IMAG0358 (resized).jpg

I hear you, but if it's is just plexiglass it will be scratched up in no time, Maybe they used lexan, it would be a lot more scratch resistant. Anyway, the idea was brought up, so I just wanted to give people a idea of what it would cost to use glass.

Aurich, saw this at Portland Retro Gaming Expo last fall.

IMG_20181019_135007 (resized).jpg

What jacks up the price is the tempering, it about doubles the price. The polished edges don't help either. Of course if you can get lucky like I did, I got about a 100.00 invested total in the cocktail cabinet in my post. Got the empty table with glass for 50.00 and got all the controls for another 50.00 off ebay, had the old CPU laying around.

So, I added the Spintrak spinner from Ultimarc. The installation is janky because the hole is too big so it’s not too secure at the moment but it feels amazing! I used the big flywheel. I will need to locate or fashion an adapter at some point.

I did the USB mod which is required as this spinner is WAY too sensitive. I was able to enter the MAME settings and compensate by dialing down the sensitivity setting which I had to reduce to the lowest setting. Tempest plays like a dream with this spinner. HOWEVER....

Contrary to what was reported elsewhere, my settings are NOT retained if I exit the game and select it later, let alone if I turn the machine off.

Anyone know of a fix for this issue? If not, I’ll have to do the optical disc mod, which looks like a real pain.

52DAEA91-E372-4ED3-9A41-BDB7A404F4FD (resized).jpeg

The only problem with this, would be how do decide if the game is co-op or vs. I’d like to have a selector switch on the pass through cable switching between one cab having player 1+2 the other with 3+4, or one cab having 1+3 the other 2+4. It would suck not having the choice available.

In my experience with Mame... go to the menu and set your settings... make sure they are what you want by playing the game, go back to the settings and then load a different game from the settings menu... doing this saves the settings to the games personal ini file.

Doing a hard exit from a game usually does not save the games settings with mame.

On my !!! Those buttons and joystick placement is oh so crazy

I sell Lexan professionally , and always need to tell customers not to ever wipe it with a dry rag, always spray glass cleaner on the lexan or the rag first before cleaning it.

I think PETG is possibly the best plastic for scratch resistance , but cracks easily.

Plexi is fair, cracks easily and yellows over time

Lexan; polycarbonate; will not yellow or crack, but can be cut and drilled like wood, but scratches and hazes from micro scratches easily.

Just flame polish it every year.

...might want to take it out in the yard first.

And off the cab too

Interesting, didn’t realize there was a dedicated cab option for it. I always just had the MVS version. My 4-slot rotates most games through but always has puzzle bobble (aka bust a move) loaded.

Not talking Puzzle Bobble, Bubble Bobble predates Neo Geo by years.

And if I recall, Bubble Bobble was only sold as a kit through Romstar in the U.S.

I have a cnc machine, so I figured I'd take a stab at making my own control panel protector for SF2. It would be easy to make a completely new control panel, too. Heck, it wouldn't be too far-fetched to make a complete cab using my SF2 as a model, but it's so much easier and probably cheaper buying the pre-made cabinets from arcade1up.

sf2 cp protector (resized).PNG

Isn't it easier to just clear coat it??

Well, that almost worked. If I loaded another game and later reloaded Tempest from the MAME menu, it would keep the settings. However, if I exited to the Arcade 1up menu and reloaded Tempest, it reverted to the stock settings.

Bummer.

Look up the hot keys for saving settings in mame, I believe they exist, maybe that could be the trick

Or maybe there’s a hot key for rebuilding or saving the nvram with a hard key press??

Good work! Wonder if yours will fit nicer. They left way too big a hole at the joysticks.

Looking over arcade 1ups games at ces. Their clear protector and control panels alignment was really hit or miss :/ so I wonder if their control panel cuts are off.

Laminating the control panel before use is the best option.. should have been a factory install

I've been measuring to make it fit my control panel panel as close as possible. Some buttons are slightly skewed left or right a tad, so I guess there were loose tolerances in their manufacturing process, meaning they had to create a protector that would account for all the slop.

I would prefer not to mess with clear coating. There was a YouTube video of someone recommending how to spray it, and he was saying how well it turned out. It looked pretty bad to me.

Ya, almost seems like you have to make it on an individual basis :/ if they had designed it from the start, the. The plexi could of been the top so not loose holes.

Maybe a better option is thin pteg then the clear top could be a tight fit and no holes around buttons/joystick?

I clear coated my control panel, but I *think* I know what I'm doing, so it came out great.

Ya, I trust my abilities more then most youtubers.

2019 CES interview with dave Macintosh from tastemakers (aka. arcade 1up)

I dug through the MAME menu but couldn’t find a command for “save settings”. I did find a command for “save state”, but I think that has to do with saving game progress.

Anyone know of where I can find a good MAME resource?

Further MAME observations.

It seems that some of the menu settings are saved. If I go into “Input (general)” and make changes, those will be saved. But changes to dip switches, slider controls, analog controls are all lost.

Is it the non-usb Spintrak spinner? I assume so but making sure.

Yes

I’m kinda surprised that I seem to be the only one beating this drum. Maybe everyone else is just waiting for the Arcade 1up upgrade version.

I’m kind of thinking I will go with that spinner too but if I have to replace the spinner as well as the track ball, I’m probably just going to wait and see what the upgraded one is like or build my own cabinet.

How are you guys liking these cabs? I'm considering collecting most of them to make a little garage arcade. I'm torn between getting real cabs, but the price, multiple games and size are very tempting. Thoughts on getting these vs spend much more on dedicated cabs?

Lots of owners' thoughts in this thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/299-new-arcade-cabinets-street-fighter-centipede-tempest-

LMFAO thanks needed that

I’m loving my Centipede one. The side graphics look great. While the size is smaller than a real cab even with the riser, you completely forget you’re not playing an original when you play it. It feels authentic, and the controls work well. Definitely a good buy for the money, even if you can’t find one on sale.

Thanks for the input.

Hilarious . Sorry some of us don't want to waste time screening 30+ pages looking for opinions. Easier just to ask and save time sometimes. Thanks again for your help.

Regarding the upcoming cabinets, I wish they would put Burger Time within a cabinet with additional late 70s/early 80s games rather than mid to late 1980s