(Topic ID: 291899)
Linked Games
Hot Hand
Stern Electronics, 1979
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You could sell the playfield complete. Nothing on it applies to Star Gazer except for the trough parts and the slings. The apron is good for a Quicksilver build.
Quoted from dothedoo:You could sell the playfield complete. Nothing on it applies to Star Gazer except for the trough parts and the slings. The apron is good for a Quicksilver build.
Yeah that playfield is waaay too nice, I'd definitely just sell the whole thing to someone with a beat up playfield. You'd probably make more and have a lot less stress selling all of the parts off of it along the way.
Hot Hand is a good game, most people don't get past the goofy spinning flipper though.
People do seem to like "different" when going for the classic sterns.... Hot hand just isn't there yet.
$10k by Christmas......
......2042.....
1 week later
Sellersburg, IN
Quoted from Jjsmooth:If anyone needs any of these plastics or pop caps, hit me up.
[quoted image]
What was the serial number for this Hot Hand before it’s lost forever?? At least record it (or let me)
Great job on the cabinet
If you haven’t sanded the head yet then the serial should still be on the head
Quoted from Jjsmooth:New bottom panel made from 1/4" pre-finished cabinet plywood, secured with staples.
New lower edge cut from 3/4" plywood, glued and pinned.
[quoted image]
Any concern with the new edge being a weak point? If the game was on it's belly, and slid across the floor it seems like the seam would give up.
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:What was the serial number for this Hot Hand before it’s lost forever?? At least record it (or let me)
Great job on the cabinet
If you haven’t sanded the head yet then the serial should still be on the head
Here you go
16197916467909152545657319219358 (resized).jpgQuoted from djblouw:Any concern with the new edge being a weak point? If the game was on it's belly, and slid across the floor it seems like the seam would give up.
I used to build custom cabinetry and furniture. I've done around 15 machines using this process, without issue.
The combination of staples, glue, and bondo is at least as strong as the 3/8" notch in the original cabinet.
Quoted from Jjsmooth:I used to build custom cabinetry and furniture. I've done around 15 machines using this process, without issue.
The combination of staples, glue, and bondo is at least as strong as the 3/8" notch in the original cabinet.
That makes sense. The woodglue is usually stronger than the wood anyways.
Quoted from cosmokramer:Wow, I just found this thread, incredible work.
cosmokramer amd
Jjsmooth , you guys do incredible work. I’m following both your threads!
Quoted from Jjsmooth:I'll go ahead and get the drop units cleaned up and sprayed
You have any tips on making sure the drops work properly with the new targets? I’ve got a Galaxy and a Stars which will eventually be getting restored, but the drops in both have been replaced and I have issues with them not re-setting or bricking when hit that have me scratching my head... 
I've had both good and bad luck with the repros. I have a Seawitch with all repro targets, no issues.
I have found that targets that refuse to stay up consistently are usually slightly bent. A little heat, and bend the other way while they cool takes care of it.
Bricking happens because repros flex more than originals. This requires notching the back of target, and epoxying a 2" brad nail into the notch to stiffen. Make sure target is straight while epoxy curing.
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