(Topic ID: 291899)

2021-Hot Hand to Stargazer

By Jjsmooth

6 months ago


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  • 110 posts
  • 19 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 25 days ago by Jjsmooth
  • Topic is favorited by 20 Pinsiders

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There are 110 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 3.
#1 6 months ago

This thread will document my conversion of a Stern Hot Hand to a Stargazer.
Having one less Hot Hand in existence should upset no one.
Playfield and backglass coming from Greatwich. Harness from Third Coast.

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#2 6 months ago

If anyone needs any of these plastics or pop caps, hit me up.

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#3 6 months ago

You could sell the playfield complete. Nothing on it applies to Star Gazer except for the trough parts and the slings. The apron is good for a Quicksilver build.

#4 6 months ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

You could sell the playfield complete. Nothing on it applies to Star Gazer except for the trough parts and the slings. The apron is good for a Quicksilver build.

Yeah that playfield is waaay too nice, I'd definitely just sell the whole thing to someone with a beat up playfield. You'd probably make more and have a lot less stress selling all of the parts off of it along the way.

#5 6 months ago

I'll put the pf up for sale. I honestly didn't think there would be any interest in it.

#6 6 months ago

Hot Hand is a good game, most people don't get past the goofy spinning flipper though.

People do seem to like "different" when going for the classic sterns.... Hot hand just isn't there yet.

$10k by Christmas......

......2042.....

1 week later
#7 6 months ago

Cabinet stripped of parts.
I'll be putting a new bottom in this one.

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#8 6 months ago

I cut the cabinet right at the top of bottom panel (11/16" on old Sterns) using my track saw.

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#9 6 months ago

Next I'll pull staples, fill, sand, and paint inner cabinet.

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#10 6 months ago

Sanded inside and out.
Spackling applied to inside of cabinet.
I'll use bondo and glaze to smooth exterior.

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#11 6 months ago

2 coats of automotive primer, sanded with #800 after each, interior ready for color.

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#12 6 months ago

Color applied. I really like this color.

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#13 6 months ago

New bottom panel made from 1/4" pre-finished cabinet plywood, secured with staples.
New lower edge cut from 3/4" plywood, glued and pinned.

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#14 6 months ago

First layer of bondo applied at seam and corners

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#15 6 months ago

New panels made from 1/2" plywood for bottom of cabinet

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#16 6 months ago

And interior.

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#17 6 months ago

Cabinet smoothed with glaze, ready for primer.
I use 2 part auto primer. 3 coats, sanded between (#800)

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#18 6 months ago
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#19 6 months ago

Jerry ain't playing around, y'all. Looking good sir.

#20 6 months ago

Ain't got time for playin round, son.

#21 5 months ago

Fantastically clean job Jerry!!

#22 5 months ago
Quoted from Jjsmooth:

If anyone needs any of these plastics or pop caps, hit me up.
[quoted image]

What was the serial number for this Hot Hand before it’s lost forever?? At least record it (or let me)

Great job on the cabinet
If you haven’t sanded the head yet then the serial should still be on the head

#23 5 months ago
Quoted from Jjsmooth:

New bottom panel made from 1/4" pre-finished cabinet plywood, secured with staples.
New lower edge cut from 3/4" plywood, glued and pinned.
[quoted image]

Any concern with the new edge being a weak point? If the game was on it's belly, and slid across the floor it seems like the seam would give up.

#24 5 months ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

What was the serial number for this Hot Hand before it’s lost forever?? At least record it (or let me)
Great job on the cabinet
If you haven’t sanded the head yet then the serial should still be on the head

Here you go

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#25 5 months ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Any concern with the new edge being a weak point? If the game was on it's belly, and slid across the floor it seems like the seam would give up.

I used to build custom cabinetry and furniture. I've done around 15 machines using this process, without issue.
The combination of staples, glue, and bondo is at least as strong as the 3/8" notch in the original cabinet.

#26 5 months ago
Quoted from Jjsmooth:

I used to build custom cabinetry and furniture. I've done around 15 machines using this process, without issue.
The combination of staples, glue, and bondo is at least as strong as the 3/8" notch in the original cabinet.

That makes sense. The woodglue is usually stronger than the wood anyways.

#27 5 months ago

Yessir, and as long as pieces fit together properly, the glue will do its job.

#28 5 months ago

Base coats applied.
I use base coat/clearcoat on exterior.
Interiors I use single stage.

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#29 5 months ago

I'll be using an F2K backbox, as there is one here in my shop (thx Athens95) that is in better shape than the Hot Hand.
For those interested, it's this one.
That is some fantastic artwork there...really pulled out all the stops.

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#30 5 months ago

Stencils applied, ready to spray the white.

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#31 5 months ago

This is taking shape, looks great!

#32 5 months ago

Thank you.
Took 4 coats of white to cover.
I'll set this aside until backbox in paint, then I'll clearcoat them at the same time.

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#33 5 months ago

I'll stencil this tomorrow.
Just got word from Greatwich that pf and bg shipping next week.
Yes..

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#34 5 months ago
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#35 5 months ago

Wow, I just found this thread, incredible work.

#36 5 months ago

Thank you, your FH is going to be sweet.

#37 5 months ago

For legs, I'm going to use these, which were off of my TNA. I have no idea why Spooky used these shorter legs. I replaced with modern Stern legs, and that picked it up 2", which made it correct height.

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#38 5 months ago

I use Rustoleum hammered silver for old Stern legs and coindoor, with clearcoat.

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#39 5 months ago
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#40 5 months ago

3 coats of 2 part auto clear applied to cabinet and legs. I did this for protection and feel. I dont polish this out.

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#41 5 months ago

As always, I use this rectifier board kit from Andrew at nvram.weebly.
Good product at good price.

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#42 5 months ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

Wow, I just found this thread, incredible work.

cosmokramer amd Jjsmooth , you guys do incredible work. I’m following both your threads!

#43 5 months ago

Thx, Matt.
Painted/cleared legs mounted over cabinet protectors and new mounting plates.

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#44 5 months ago

New siderails from pinball life. I have found that once u pull the protective coating from them, u are left with this at all the edges.
Removes fairly quickly with xylene.

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#45 5 months ago
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#46 5 months ago

Playfield should be here in couple days. I'll go ahead and get the drop units cleaned up and sprayed.
1 down, 2 to go

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#47 5 months ago
Quoted from Jjsmooth:

I'll go ahead and get the drop units cleaned up and sprayed

You have any tips on making sure the drops work properly with the new targets? I’ve got a Galaxy and a Stars which will eventually be getting restored, but the drops in both have been replaced and I have issues with them not re-setting or bricking when hit that have me scratching my head...

#48 5 months ago

I've had both good and bad luck with the repros. I have a Seawitch with all repro targets, no issues.
I have found that targets that refuse to stay up consistently are usually slightly bent. A little heat, and bend the other way while they cool takes care of it.
Bricking happens because repros flex more than originals. This requires notching the back of target, and epoxying a 2" brad nail into the notch to stiffen. Make sure target is straight while epoxy curing.

#49 5 months ago

Flipper units from Pinball Life.
Pops rebuilt.
New solid oak rails made and painted.
New speaker from Parts Express.
Playfield should be here tomorrow.
And yes, a Bally transformer..

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#50 5 months ago

Looks like all the parts are lined up!

There are 110 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 3.

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