(Topic ID: 263970)

2020 Funhouse Resto

By Jjsmooth

4 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 119 posts
  • 22 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by pencilneck
  • Topic is favorited by 26 Pinsiders

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There are 119 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 3.
#51 4 years ago

Man that looks sweet. Grr...to restore mine or not...

#52 4 years ago

I scored a set of Phoenix decals for my CFTBL. Can't wait to install them.

I'm a little surprised you didn't paint the top plywood edge of the front blue, and up 3" on both side edges, as well. Maybe you did, just didn't seem like it from that angle.

Those decals look amazing! Nice job!

#53 4 years ago

Thanks.
And point taken. I use a piece of 1/4" plywood to protect inside of cabinet while painting the outside, and it covers that edge.
I fixed that today

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#54 4 years ago

SWEET!!!! That's what I'm talking about

#55 4 years ago

You mentioned:

You put lock bar in evap-o-rust for a couple days... did they come out like your last picture, or did you paint or refinish them?

You said you use "Spackle" on the inside & exterior of cabinet... is that the Spackle used for drywall paste / repair?

#56 4 years ago

Question, why did you populate the topside of the playfield before the bottom? Recommendations I've seen have said start with the bottom. I'm assembling parts right now to do my first playfield swap, and it's on a Funhouse too, so I'm super curious about your process. Thanks!

#57 4 years ago

Lockbar put in evaporust to eliminate corrosion. Then, I cleaned it up with wire wheel, and sprayed it with this.

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#58 4 years ago

I use this stuff to fill wood grain.
Get it at Depot.

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#59 4 years ago
Quoted from nwpinball:

Question, why did you populate the topside of the playfield before the bottom? Recommendations I've seen have said start with the bottom. I'm assembling parts right now to do my first playfield swap, and it's on a Funhouse too, so I'm super curious about your process. Thanks!

No real reason to do top or bottom first. A rotisserie gives u the option to work on what u feel like. I usually get all the ramps and plastics off the top, then flip it over and get the harness off to clean. Then all mechs off to lighten things up.
This time I left almost all hardware, posts, switches, etc on old pf. Then put new pf on rotisserie. Then I cleaned, polished, replaced all the small parts one at a time, and installed. Worked well.

#60 4 years ago
Quoted from Jjsmooth:

95% of hardware in place. Will start attaching rebuilt mechs tomorrow.[quoted image]

This is back from the first page. But did you try to place all the fin nuts first?
That seems like a logical first step since you’d have all the space to hammer them in
Thanks

#61 4 years ago

If u mean t-nuts, then yes, those get hammered in early on. I have the perfect tool for that.
Use new t-nuts (Depot) and make sure the prongs are perpendicular to the base before u start banging on them.
Buy a bunch of #6 and #8.

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#62 4 years ago

Got some interior stuff done today

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#63 4 years ago

I've doing a couple of cabinet decals and noticed that thumbs and fingers tend to rub the edges of the decals. Given enough time, this will start to peel them back. To prevent this, I'm using clear plastic corner guards. The legs have those metal spacers behind them so there is a thin gap for the bottom of the corner guard to fit right into and the lock bar fits over the top of the corner guard without issue.

It is nice to see your attention to details, thanks for taking the time to post.

#64 4 years ago

The Rustoleum you painted the lock down receiver with: won't this begin to show dings once the pf is lowered into it a few times?

Just curious why you'd paint it as opposed to replacing it if the original can't be restored well enough.

#65 4 years ago
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#66 4 years ago
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#67 4 years ago

Stripped and repainted coin door today.

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#68 4 years ago

What paint and/or technique do you use to get the textured look on the coin door? Thanks. Mike

#69 4 years ago

I used a wire wheel to remove all of the old paint. Sprayed on a coat of satin black, then used semi gloss black for specks. It's hard to explain, but you barely push the button on the spray can, from about 2' above, and it creates the specks.

#70 4 years ago

There’s a video on YouTube showing the speckle technique.

Q: why spray paint the lockdown receiver? Won’t that chip with all the lowering of the pf back into it?

#71 4 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

There’s a video on YouTube showing the speckle technique.

Do you have a link or exact wording for search?

#72 4 years ago

Q: why spray paint the lockdown receiver? Won’t that chip with all the lowering of the pf back into it?

No. I make sure the tabs on the pf mounts fit properly into slots on bar.

#73 4 years ago
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

Do you have a link or exact wording for search?

I believe it’s here.

#74 4 years ago

Awesome... Thank You!
I watched the whole thing.

#76 4 years ago

@pinballinreno... not sure what your post is about?

#77 4 years ago
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

pinballinreno... not sure what your post is about?

Lol,

Im working on my flood damaged funhouse.

I have everything working except all the optos are down.

I ordered a new 3 opto board but wonder if its something simple.

What connector or wire might be bad or plugged in wrong?

A couple hints would speed me up.

#78 4 years ago

Kinda off topic, but did you build your rotisserie yourself? It looks really robust. I'm getting far enough along in this hobby that I need to consider buying/building one here in the next few months.

#79 3 years ago

I built it from a design here on pinside.
I believe skypilot did it originally.

#80 3 years ago

Backbox stripped, ready to sand and refinish. I screwed the corners to firm things up a bit.

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#81 3 years ago
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#82 3 years ago

Paint looks perfect.

Is it a custom blend?

#83 3 years ago

Nope

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#84 3 years ago
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#85 3 years ago
Quoted from Jjsmooth:

[quoted image]

Its beautiful!

I hope mine comes out that good.

My only problem will be refinishing rudy's head.

I really like what you did on yours.

My optos are still down.

I got a new opto board today.

Ill try it tomorrow.

Great work on these!

#86 3 years ago

I can help with Rudy paint if you need.

#87 3 years ago
Quoted from Jjsmooth:

I can help with Rudy paint if you need.

Really!
WOW!

i can send you my head pieces.

Ill pm you.

#88 3 years ago

Fitting plastics, assembling new ramps

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#89 3 years ago

For $20 in parts, how good do these new lenses make the coin door look.

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#90 3 years ago
Quoted from Jjsmooth:

For $20 in parts, how good do these new lenses make the coin door look.[quoted image]

Looks like a new door!
I think pinball life has the little 25 cent papers for the reject buttons.

#91 3 years ago

Ramps in.

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#93 3 years ago
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#94 3 years ago

Ooh, pretty!

#95 3 years ago
Quoted from Jjsmooth:

[quoted image]

Looks good. Don't forget to add the balloon plastics to the right locations. The blue one next to trapdoor belongs to the right VUK (above the plastics with yellow stars), the other blue moves next to trapdoor.

#96 3 years ago

My FH had balloons over the popcorn plastic. When I replaced the playfield I put two of the popcorns over that plastic.

I got some extra plastic popcorn and balloons from one of the suppliers and covered some of the switches with them. Popcorn on the left switch and balloon on the right.

#97 3 years ago

Going to repaint a faded Rudy.
Removing old finish with oven cleaner.
Takes an hour or so, but a lot gentler on the irreplaceable plastic face, than paint stripper.

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#98 3 years ago

Paint removed, scuffed, and cleaned with paint prep spray

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#99 3 years ago

Skin tone applied

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#100 3 years ago

Impressive

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