FunHouse
Williams, 1990You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Jjsmooth.
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I will be documenting the process of restoring a Williams Funhouse. This was a well routed piece in need of some freshening up.
And a paint job for Rudy..
Current state of machine
IMG_20190908_115800600 (resized).jpgIMG_20190908_115708056 (resized).jpgIMG_20190908_115713878 (resized).jpgIMG_20190909_112250907 (resized).jpgGetting all under pf mechs cleaned and parts replaced. All coils get new sleeves and coil wraps. Pops get these plus plunger polished (doesn't sound right), new fiber and metal yokes (every metal yoke was broken). This will make a huge improvement, and they will react like new.
IMG_20190913_192057817 (resized).jpgHaha. I only put him in there because he had a bad couple days. Vet said he must have hurt his back, jumping from couch maybe. We could not touch him without him yelping. Felt horrible, but Percy is almost back to himself.
He is a great dog. Half Pomeranian, half Chihuahua.
Full badass
IMG_20190919_201202295 (resized).jpgThanks. The Taxi is mine and will be put on the mkt when I am finished.
I try to have a machine in progress all the time.
This is the 6th Mirco I've used, and haven't had the issues you had. If so, I'd have a problem too.
I'll be doing a resto thread on the Taxi in a few weeks, and let you know what I see.
Thank you. I appreciate that.
I totally enjoy making these old machines look and play like new again.
Quoted from Blackbeard:You must be taking a large amount of pictures. You just using a smart phone? Or a normal camera?
I just looked back and saw that I didn't respond to your question. I use my phone camera. I don't take as many pictures as I used to, as I have done a fair number of restos. Hell this is FH #3.
I take about 8 pics of bottom of pf as it sets on rotisserie. Up top, take off ramp assemblies and plastics, and get 8 or 10 shots of posts, hardware, etc. I lose patience anymore if I have to sort thru 100 pictures.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Random thought. Would it be too risky to put holes for the optos so they don’t phantom register when the ramp gets dirty?
I see no risk in that.
Quoted from arcadenerd925:How did that end up working out for you? any guess on how long it took to strip all the decals off?
When i restored my FH (first restore) I heated up the decal and peeled off sections at a time. It took forever. So I am looking for better options for next time.
About an hour per side. I have noticed that my local Home Depot doesn't carry the Kleenstrip in theyellow/brown can anymore. That is the good stuff. Put a tarp down, wear gloves, and make a mess.
Don't do it in the sun, it dries too quick. Spray it, give it half hour, scrape it, then do it again.
Quoted from MLmotorsport:-- Do you have a must-get-new list like t-nuts to switches, coils, opto's, and plastic spoons and how many of each? I would rather just replace if in doubt than have something let go shortly after I'm finished with it.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Hardware, tnuts, spoons, etc, are inexpensive items that I just keep plenty in stock. Almost all nuts, tnuts, screws are #6 or #8. Buy them at home Depot or Boltdepot.com. Buy coil sleeves 20 at a time in longest length u can and cut to fit. All above pf plastic parts should be replaced, if u can get them
Coils only replaced if they are bad (burnt). If u can't get the old coil sleeve out, replace that coil.
Quoted from dudah:Have you tried CitraStrip? Works great and no fumes, can even use it inside!
Never tried it. I like the oven cleaner because it's not too aggressive.
I'm waiting on replacement decals now.
Owner made mistake of supplying decals from Classic Arcades...what was supposed to be the blue color was almost purple. What was supposed to be red was orange.
Sent them back.
Quoted from bobukcat:Dry method I see, did you use to do wet but got so good at it you don't need to anymore?
I did do wet awhile back, but umm, yeah..
Seriously tho, I recommend dry, as long as u can control the decal. Dont let it touch the cabinet until u want it too.
The straight edge is key (or have a helper).
Quoted from mollyspub:No upgraded cabniet braces?
These looked like they were put on by owner in last 6 months. Like new. Same amount of thread in brace type mounts. And this cabinet is solid, needs no extra bracing, so no need to waste owners $.
Quoted from Blackbeard:Dumb little question: how did you remove/reattach the label on the backbox door after you painted the door?
Complete resto decal kits from pinsider Athens95.
Quoted from russdx:Note to the gut selling the $7k fun house, this is how you restore a machine and justify that price!!
Great work! Did you just not finish a dinner?
Thank you.
And yes I did just finish a Diner. It now resides in Florida.
Taxi is up next.
Quoted from Davi:Unless you would not like to see the GI dimming feature - for example before multiball. Without GIOCD board, you will loose the dimming effect.
I'm just speaking in general. Lighting is personal preference.
Quoted from Blackbeard:I noticed your pic of the backbox, and all the filler on the corners.
How do you get your corners to come out just right during sanding? Are you just eyeballing it?
I use a random orbit sander (with firm pad) connected to vacuum. I will detail the process I use on next resto thread (either another FH or Taxi).
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Bethel Park, PA