I've only done 4 machines, three of which were covered in thick gunk. What I've done (as long as there is no bare wood) is that I blew off the PF with air and then used Windex to get the grime off and then Novus2. I recently did a worn out lacquered playfield with bare wood in parts and still used Windex but I only sprayed onto the cleaning rag and then wiped.

Magic eraser and alcohol is what I use for cleaning. Then novus 2, then wax.

Yeah, I'm not too sure about old playfields and lacquer but for newer PF It seems to have 0 effect if wiped off completely. Anyway that has been my experience. It's always a good idea to try things out in an inconspicuous area are first.

I know people hate it but i use millwax to clean heavy grim off then novus 2 then wipe with novus 1 also. then good wax 2-3 coats

For my EM's that are Really Dirty this is what I do which involves taking off all the posts, plastics, rubbers, and what ever else I feel needs to be removed so I can get around the Playfield to clean it pretty easy:

1) I vacuum the Playfield very carefully. You can just blow it off with a can of air duster or from a compressor if you wish too.

2) Use a Magic Eraser with at least 90% alcohol and go over it twice. Check every so often to make sure it is not removing the paint and if it is STOP! (Note: you want as little water based products as possible when cleaning a Playfield).

3) Magic Eraser leaves a white film when it dries and is best to get up the residue with 90% alcohol and Novus Wipes. When the white haze is gone you are good to go to the next step.

4) Use one coat of Novus 2 for polishing while checking for possible paint removal. (Note in areas with heavy ball swirl I may go over with the Novus again, but be careful!).

5) Use Johnson's Paste Wax and do 3 coats making sure each one has completely dried. Carnauba Wax is great also but just make sure you are using 100% wax with no other cleaners or polishers! (Note on my final coat I like letting sit over night to make sure I have a super hard finish when I buff it out by hand the next day)

I myself have never had any kind of paint removal doing it this way and the results are fantastic!

Ken

Novus 2 followed by Novus 1. I have never used wax on a 90s or newer machines.
Great shape to start and keep them very clean.

I'm one of the passionate arguers. Novus 2 is a polish not a cleaner. Big difference in how they're made and how they work (I won't get into lifting agents and all that stuff).

Start as you said so you get as much grit off as you can without wiping. Otherwise you're just scratching the playfield while cleaning it.

Then I use ZEP Heavy Duty Citrus Cleaner/Degreaser available at Home Depot. As previously stated spray on the rag and then wipe. The advantage of a citrus cleaner is it will remove any old wax also. I don't know that this wouldn't work on an EM, but have never tried it.

Always use micro-fiber towels since they lift away the grit and reduce scratching.

If after cleaning you still have ball tracks I use a Magic Eraser with alcohol. The Magic Eraser is abrasive so don't rub any area more than say 20 seconds or you will start removing paint. If there's any haze after cleaning with the ME, clean with Naptha and then polish if necessary.

The advantage of the Magic Eraser is the micro-fibers get down into microscopic cracks and clean them out. Nothing else will do that. See the following for more info.

http://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/pinball-101/routine-maintenance/139-cleaning-playfield

I'm a bit new to this also,
is taking everything off the pf necessary to clean and or wax?

Depends on your objective.

I wax my games every six months am not going to strip them to the playfield every time since on a newer game that's a couple of day project.

When I get a new game, which probably hasn't been cleaned in years, I completely strip the playfield, clean it and then polish and wax with an orbital buffer. After that I just remove enough stuff to clean and wax.

If I ever kept one long enough I might do the full boat again after a few years.

Not a problem! Now you have some info if you ever do get an EM and need to clean it.

Ken

Really? For just regular cleaning?

Alcohol with Magic Eraser is a dangerous combination in the wrong hands. For general cleaning its overkill. You can very easily destroy the finish on a playfield unless you are really careful.

I think ME with or without alcohol is fine for a first cleaning on a really, really dirty game. If the game is not super dirty with dirt swirls I would recommend just using Novus 2 to remove most of the dirt. Yes its a polish but it does a great job and is very gentle.

I've cleaned well over 30 playfields so far. I first use simple green to cut through the gunk, then I go over it with Novus #2. The I put 5-6 coats of Mother's carnuba wax.

I guess I should have been clearer, I use magic eraser and alcohol when I take everything off of the playfield. If I am just spot cleaning, I agree with you, I just use novus 2 and then a light coat of wax.

The OP's question was specifically about the 1st time cleaning on a dirty machine.

Hi all,
What if you are a new pin owner and your machines are clean and you just want to rewax?
Do you need to polish again with Novus or just blow, wipe and rewax with Caranuba?

If a WPC just use Novus2 and wax.

If you just want to relax just wipe down with some novus as a quick clean and then wax.

Magic eraser is a commitment if you use it. The white crap from the eraser getting used up will get everywhere. You must strip the playfield or when things dry you will see white film all over the place that is a huge pain to clean up. The white Magic Eraser film does not just wipe off, especially when it dries (which happens pretty much instantly with 90% IPA), it is a real effort to get it out of the cracks/crevices and off any posts you were to lazy to remove. You really want to get rid of the film since it has an abrasive in it. Not something you want hanging around inside your game.

Were it me, I would just use 90% IPA on a something like Mill wipes or equivalent and change them often as they got dirty and see where that gets you. Especially if you don't want to fully take the playfield apart. Then move onto one of the standard Mill wax or Novus #2 cleaning regiments.

But if something is really awful the magic eraser will do wonders, just make sure you are ready for the commitment.

It soaks into the wood of the inside of the cab if it drips in there. I got some in there and it doesn't clean off. It makes a hell of a mess but it cleans up ball swirls and the like very well, but it also dulls the finish. I planned to clear coat after using it and did the entire PF, stripped completely but I'm sure I'll never get all of the residue out of the nooks and crannies.

This is what I do as well.

Magic Eraser+Alcohol is basically sandpaper, and thus it removes the top layer of the playfield, so it should only be used in extreme circumstances like ball swirl marks, and playfield restorations.

Wasn't meaning to jump on your post its just that I have seen people on RGP recommend ME to a newbie and they proceeded to significantly damage their playfields. Once you add the alcohol it greatly intensifies its effects. If you take it deep enough no wax will bring it back. If I ever recommend ME to someone I always put out that disclaimer just in case.

I typically use the most gentle cleaner and step it up a bit at a time. Water based cleaners like Simple Green are perfectly fine to use as long as you spray it on the rag and not the playfield itself and follow behind with a dry cloth. Even cleaner waxes work great for removing dirt. ME is the very last step. If its a 90's game with Diamondplate or a similar clearcoat I have never had the need to use ME. Older games with lacquer clears ME works great. I took ME to a Gottlieb Genie and it did wonders.

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Hey metahugh, I also mentioned ME earlier and your clarification is well worth making so that people don't do unintended damage through a lack of understanding.

Not sure if you guys have this product over in the States but I was recently looking around at various places to buy a pin back here in Australia and I asked the guys who restore their games before selling them on, what they use to clean their PF.I was told unequivocally to use Mr Sheene. So that's what I did and my very, very dirty PF came up a treat. No harmfully chemicals, feels like its polished when finished and even smells good too. I then used a two part procedure of Bowdens (Aussie made product for old cars), car pre-wax product to remove the old wax, followed by two coats of a carnauba wax. All natural products without any chemicals. The PF hardly felt any better after the pre-wax and waxing than it did after the initial Mr Sheene treatment. In saying that I will now only use the carnauba wax from now on but for my next dirty pin that I buy...I'll give it the once over with Mr Sheene first that's for sure!

Your disclaimer is definitely worth it.

CP-100 for spot cleaning and I agree with the Wolf on any major cleaning I use 99% alcohol and Magic Eraser. Works really well.