Is it rubbing? Small washers between the flipper shaft and the bushing will add clearance.
You did change out the flipper bushing?

Yes ,its as though you are increasing the height of the bushing itself,which increases the gap of the flipper to playfield gap.
I have done a few ,so your not the first. The washers go on top of the playfield side of the bushing.

Get smaller ones.... If you have the old parts bring them with you to size proper ,ends trips to the hardware store.
Flipper bushing drawing.png
Just so there is no confusion. Also make sure the washers fit inside the flipper in addition to shaft/stem fitment.

Are the thin Black washers curved? If so, they are for mounting the coils. They help prevent the coil bobbin from rattling back and forth between the brackets as some mounting designs don't allow for you to sinch the brackets tight against the bobbin. The can help prevent some of the buzzing when the flippers are held on.

You can't read across the thinner coil without opening the EOS switch. You should also short your meter leads together to get the resistance of your leads. Sometimes, they will be in the 0.4-0.5 range already which would mean your reading is a dead short (the closed EOS Switch).

Also, that A-17875 is a Gottlieb flipper coil, not a Williams. So, don't expect it to read or perform the same as your other one.

Yes, buy a new, correct coil....it will eliminate one of the dozen or so reasons the flipper might be weak plus you'll never have to worry about it again for 30-40 years... . Now there are a couple of things I see....or can't see......first it may be the picture but I can't see the thin coil wire coming off the coil to the green wire lug on the left coil picture so make sure it's there. Second may be the picture again but the left coil EOS switch looks pretty close to the pawl... like it may open too early which will cut power to the coil....

Extracted from Pinball medic:
Solenoid Coil Body Differences
(Flipper and large core bank reset coils are not included in this comparison.)
Bally and Gottlieb use the same standard 1 1/2 inches long coil body. Gottlieb and Bally coils usually use a 1 5/8 inch long coil sleeve.
Replace a Gottlieb coil with a Bally manufactured coil substitution only if a genuine coil is unattainable.
Pinball Medic Amusements Pinball Solenoid Coil Charts A typical Williams or Data East coil uses a 1/16 of an inch shorter coil body then a Gottlieb coil.
Williams coil body length is 1 5/8 inches. Standard length of coil sleeve for Williams coils is 1 3/4 inches long.
Coil Substitutions using a different coil manufacturer then the original coil
It is always best to use a coil with the exact part number of the original. However, this cannot always be found. Specs like coil body length, coil diode (if present on original coil), coil sleeve type/length and coil body style should always be the same between the original coil and its substitute coil. Coil body length, lug placement/length and coil sleeve type should always be considered when substituting coil part numbers. A match can usually be found by comparing the function of the original coil with the typical function of the substitute coil. Pinball game coils have been specifically designed to operate the mechanism they were installed in......

I would.

Great info for when I go through this process as well. Thanks!

You can overpower a game with too strong a flipper coil. Ask anyone who has used Gottlieb yellow dots. At times, they can just be too much.

Snappy is fine. Breaking stuff and having the ball hit the glass all the time isn't.

I'd use what is called for in the schematic. You can always go up if you're not happy with it. But if you rebuild the flippers completely, including the EOS switches, and the mechanism is working properly, the stock coils should give you plenty of power.

I do understand this notion. Coils are entirely solid state. Just wire wrapped around in a loop. There's nothing to wear out (unless of course the wire shorted, in which case the resistance would be way out of whack.)

Have you read this? Will save a lot of time & frustration. Clay knows his stuff.

For extra credit you may want to reverse the hardware to a stud type attachment.
Some may forbid this Mod but i dont care whats underneath as its easily reversible,besides its mine.
Benefits:less likely to strip the bracket hole rather than way the Oem does it running a screw in and out,harder to strip the nut than it is to strip the Phillips head,plus easier to adjust/tighten.
The only catch to this mod is that the flat of the first nut tightened will have to be parallel with the coils length in order for the socket to catch/tighten the 2nd nut.

Just dont over-tighten the nut though, as you could snap off the screws shaft or strip it. Just snug it down.

I also use two toothed type washers (not shown) under the screw and nut.

Hdwr. Mod. (500x281).jpg

you can also use "Hi Tap", for a little more power.

EMs are like cars. They need to be played. They don't like to sit.

Put the socket cleaning stick in a drill and give it a quick spin. It might help, might not. Lamp socket issues aren't always just dirty. Don't really need to use alcohol on it.

Any good carnauba paste wax works well on playfields. Be careful, don't get it under the rollover buttons, hard to get off there.

On the whining sound, without hearing it, impossible to know. Could be the score motor needs a bit of oil. Could be a relay buzzing.

Replacing a socket is simple. By "skinny metal rod" I'm assuming you mean the ground braid. that is soldered to the socket. You just have to desolder the two connections, and remove the screw. Put the new one in, resolder the power lead and the ground, and you're ready to go. You don't have to pull any of the staples.

If the pop bumper lamp is flickering, pull the cap off and make sure the lamp is firm inserted into the pb socket. Also make sure the pb socket connections under the playfield are solid. That socket is totally different from a regular lamp socket.

That playfield is too nice to ruined by those bumper caps. Steve Young has them all. It's not cheap, but replace them. It will look so much better.

Oil or grease in the socket is not the fix.

# 9 → http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/TimArnold/47ThingsYouNeedToKnow.htm

Yes you can buy new ones but try that repair first ↑↑ as it doesnt cost a lot of $$$.

Most likely thats all you need to do,solder a drop between the bracket & base will fix it ,dont over heat it though. Whether you need to solder a tit on the bulb,i usually dont unless its worn down.
But a scuff pad cleaning is a good idea for that. I have done a few and it works great.

Ditto, ↑ Never any Oil or Grease.

9V Bulb test (450x253).jpg
02 (500x281).jpg

Check with a 9 volt for bases and bulbs *sometimes it does not work on all bulb bases because a bunch in series will not make it light.
If that happens you can use a meter on the bracket to base for continuity too.
Just dont bridge over to the hot feed. Test with machine unplugged of course. No welding.

Definitely try the soldering trick first (at least on 1-2 sockets). I've done it and it worked on most of mine. Trick for me was to use some flux - otherwise the solder did not want to 'stick/flow'.

Also agree on the new pop bumper caps. Not that great of a picture, but you can see the new caps on my Heat Wave (also a '64 Williams). They really set off the game.

H Wave.jpg

Depending on the exact cap they can be up to $12/pp but if you plan on keeping the game (and I always do at first!) then they are well worth it.

http://www.pbresource.com/pfbumper.htm

The voltage can be higher and the fuse will perform properly. You still need a 10A fast blow fuse.

Mike O.
Team-EM

Fuse question. Can I get 8 amp fuses locally? I've tried Home Depot, lowes, harbor freight, etc and none has 8 amp fuses. 10, 15, 20, 1-6 amps as well. None that are 8.

Chuck,
I dont think dipsy takes a 8 amp fuse. I dont remember one in mine and i dont see one on teh schematic,

Which fuse are you trying to replace

--Jeff

Don't forget most auto parts stores still sell standard fuses (AGC).

You can fix, by editing you post and rearrange the attachments.

Another option would be to buy a new set of legs for it. Last set of legs I painted was for early SS game cause their legs look like hammertone silver.

I do exactly what you describe when I don't want to invest in a new door skin or leg set. I use the lighter hammer tone paint to replace bad Chrome finish. I use the darker color to re-do Bally legs of the 70's and 80's. In most cases, your finish will be the same with or without primer. If the legs are really pitted, you really need to do the prep work. The point to proper prep and possibly primer is to help the finish remain on the legs. Chrome is not a good surface to paint so it really needs to be scuffed up. And then make sure you get all the contaminants off by using something like Naptha (if still available in your area).