Hi Brewchap,

Lots of folks will chime in, I'll start.

First concentrate on one issue at a time. Fix that, move to next. I would start with the score motor. Resetting to zero is good, but if the normally closed switch on each and every score reel does not open at position 0, the score motor still thinks it has work to do.

I'd check all those first. If you pull out a score reel and manually advance it, it should be apparent which switch should open at 0. There are others that close at 9 (which tells the next reel up to fire, i.e. moving from a score of 99 to 100)

Once we get the score motor fixed, it will be easier to move onto the pop bumpers.

Clay's guide is the bible to pin repair:
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index1.htm#top

And Mark's site is also super cool, and has a specific section on reels that may help:
http://markgibson.zenfolio.com/fun-with-pinball/small-boards#ScoreReels

good luck

Well my first recommendation is open a beer and remember that almost anything electrical in these machines can be fixed, and it's often something quite simple but annoying to track down.

Very difficult to know what's happening here but my first guess is some playfeld switch is stuck on. Maybe a rollover switch or maybe a pop bumper switch. I would check every playfield switch to ensure there is a clear gap on all.

Take some deep breaths (and a few swigs) and you'll get there.

Well, Mr. Brewchap, if the score motor has stopped running and chime coils are no longer stuck on I would say you have made great progress. Plus I think your two latest issues are fairly straight forward. And may even be linked, see below.

Ball not kicking out: You will need to study the schematic for something like Outhole solenoid, or Outhole Kicker solenoid. Maybe post that part of the schematic here. If like the machines I own (sorry, I dont have a Sonic) is it probably engaged when a switch on the Outhole Relay is closed. So you need to find the Outhole Relay (post that bit of schematic here too). Good to find where the physical Outhole relay is in the machine too so you can see if its is pulling in when ball goes into the outhole.

But, that relay usually pulls when a number of things happen: first the ball closes the outhole switch on the playfield, then there's often checks like it's not the last ball, but also, and I think this is where "maybe" there's a link, when the bonus unit has finished counting down.

Anyway, my advice, concentrate on one thing first, e.g. the outhole kicker. post the two relevant parts of the schematic here, and see how we go then.

To give you and idea, this is from a Bally (Space Time)

here's the part of the schematic around the outhole solenoid
Capture (resized).JPG
and here's the part around the outhole relay
Capture1 (resized).JPG

Let me see if I can help here. you don't sound stupid. Took me about 3-4 months of asking questions before the basics of schematics sunk in - then it sort of clicked (and the only knowledge/experience I had was an O level* in physics 35 years ago...*UK thing)

First, if you are going to stick this machine, and therefore will acquire others (yes, you will) its worth getting the actual schematic and reading these:

http://www.pinrepair.com/em/ (Clays, and my favorite)

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/em-pinball-circuits-basics-to-not-so-basic

http://danny.cdyn.com/russTSG.htm

OK, on to yours - see below.

First the two vertical lines in pink is the circuit coming from your transformer that drives the various solenoids, relays, etc (just not the lamps, thats a lower voltage circuit, usually on the other side of the schematic)

Look at my "1" - that's the ball release solenoid (kicks it out). It pulls in when the its "connected" to the 2 pink wires. Well one is already, the right hand side (see green circle), but the left hand side has to go through a couple of switches before it hits the other side (brown circle):

a. first switch 4B on the score motor has to closed ("yellow 2"), its normally open, so as the score motor turns it will close it at some point - you will need to read Clay's site for details
b. a switch on the Outhole Relay (which will be on the base of your cabinet) has to be closed ("yellow 3"). this switch has a yellow white and a Grey wire if my eyes dont deceive me (and if this schematic's applies to yours!)

So, what causes the Outhole relay to close? The outhole relay coil must get pulled in - thats marked with a blue arrow. For that to pull in:

a. There is a normally closed switch on the "Top Eject" relay ("blue A)
b. There is a switch on the bonus unit that has to be closed when they unit is as zero ("blue B")
c. There is a switch on the score motor, Index D, that has to be closed ("blue C")

Here's how I would approach it. Given you suspect your bonus unit, physically look at the switches on it. there should be one with 3 connections (a make/break switch) the colors of the wires to that switch are on the schematic. Make/break means a switch with three "blades" with the middle one either making a circuit with the top or bottom one. (See Clay's guide again!)

When the unit counts back the bonus to 0, the blades with "W-R" wire and "B" wire (see schematic for legend on colors!) have to be closed. When the bonus is being accumulated (as you play) the wheel moves so those two blades open, but the W-R one now connects to the blade with the "something" colored wire (cannot read it - see large blue circle).

Check that make/break is correct. If it is, I'd check the all the switches I have marked (1-3, A-C). You'll figure it out - in the end its just finding out how to get voltage to both sides of something - in this case a relay then gets voltage to a solenoid.

I'll stop there - its a lot to take in, I hope it made (or will in time) make some sense

good luck

Untitled (resized).jpg

Ah, I must have been writing while Rolf posted.

Rolf is great at these! Brewchap, you are in good hands!

Rolf. I always like your help and you've helped me lots. So I'm pleased you are here too. The more the merrier!

Something looks weird here. There is no pin near the make break switch from what I can see. Bonzo71 would you post a picture of yours so Brewchap can see if that's the issue. I sort of suspected it was on my previous post.

Brewchap. I think we are going to solve this

You need to adjust your switches so that in the zero position that bottom switch is closed

If you are not sure what to do here then as per your PM I'm happy to call and talk you through it tomorrow.