(Topic ID: 3327)

Please help me fix this switch - Earthshaker

By Bole909

13 years ago


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  • Latest reply 5 years ago by moonraker
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#1 13 years ago

Hi everyone,

I'm new to the site and hobby!
I just got my first pinball machine!!! It's a Williams Earthshaker.
I can send you some pics if you want. I'm enjoying playing it very much.

I have few problems though I need your opinions/help with.
In the test (machine is on german language so I don't understand everything, will get a new english ROM next month) it reports switches : 11 and 12 (Ball Through 1 (right) and Ball through 2 (left). It seems that swiches are closed, can you help me find them? Where are they located? (I couldn't figure it out using the manual as they are not labeled on the playfield picture).

Second problem is : when I lock the first ball it says (Ball 1 locked). It stays in the drop hole and as soon as the new ball from the plunger hits any target on playfield - the locked ball kicks out of the hole and I get some kind of 2 ball multiball. I never get a 3 ball multiball no matter what I do.

What could be the problem?
I'm not that technical at all but I don't have access to a service man so I would probably do it myself. I'm hoping it's just a dirty switch or something. Can you guide me through it?

One more noob question - how to lift the playfield? I managed to remove the glass but when I try to lift the playfield it only moves few centimeters and stops. Is there a lock or something?

p.s. the shaker motor seems not to be working too

Thanks a lot guys for any feedback. I'll be able to post pictures and videos if you need them...

[b]Please look to my last post bellow with the new insights and pictures[/b]

Cheers,
Bogdan

#2 13 years ago

My earthshaker does the same thing with the 11 and 12 switches. Like you, I cannot see them in the manual. Maybe all earthshakers are like this? When you pull up on the playfeild, pull the plunger out a little bit. I'll bet that's your problem with the playfeild not lifting. Also, make sure to take the balls out when lifting the playfeild. There is a little prop bar on the inside right of the cabinet to hold the playfeild up. I prefer to lift it all the way up though.

#3 13 years ago

My earthshaker does the same thing with the 11 and 12 switches. Like you, I cannot see them in the manual. Maybe all earthshakers are like this? When you pull up on the playfeild, pull the plunger out a little bit. I'll bet that's your problem with the playfeild not lifting. Also, make sure to take the balls out when lifting the playfeild. There is a little prop bar on the inside right of the cabinet to hold the playfeild up. I prefer to lift it all the way up though.

Thanks for such a fast reply!

Do you know what are those (11 and 12) switched for?
It's funny how they are not labeled in the manual....
Do you have problems with the multiball I mentioned in the post (I'm only getting strange 2 ball multiball and never 3 ball one)?
Any one have ideas what could be behind this?

YES - It must be the plunger blocking it! And yes - I saw the prop bar inside the cabinet! I'll try it tomorrow.

Thanks a lot for replies guys - this is really helpful

edit: I think I found a way how to remove the balls.

#4 13 years ago

There is a two ball multi ball on earthshaker. If you hit the ball into the shelter during play, the match up mode happens and you can get quick multi ball which is only two balls. Maybe you are not locking two balls correctly to get the three ball multi ball.

#5 13 years ago

There is a two ball multi ball on earthshaker. If you hit the ball into the shelter during play, the match up mode happens and you can get quick multi ball which is only two balls. Maybe you are not locking two balls correctly to get the three ball multi ball.

I'm doing it correctly (I know about a quick multiball). But I'm getting this strange 2 ball multiball every time I complete the predicted zones and light the locks.

I've also noticed that there is a delay after I shoot the shelter (it does it's thing on display) and then I have to wait at least 5 seconds before ball is kicked out of the hole. It seems like a dead time and not normal.

#6 13 years ago

Ok, new symptom : When strange 2 ball multiball starts, drop hole upkicker is continuously firing even though the hole is empty?

Is there a switch directly bellow the drop hole kicker that could be malfunctioning?

#7 13 years ago

I get a 2-ball multiball with my Swords of Fury every once in a while. I don't know if this is supposed to happen, or it's just a bug in the software. It's not something I can duplicate. It just simply happens sometimes for no apparent reason. Very strange.

#8 12 years ago

Ok guys I think I located my problem. It's the right Bottom Ball Popper that should be causing this weird 2 ball multiball. When multiball starts, the bottom ball popper keeps firing even though there is no ball in the cup holder so I think it's somehow stuck or something.

Can you guys help me fix this switch. Here are some pictures of it. I'm not sure how it's suppose to look/work exactly so I don't want to touch it until you guys tell me which metal contact should be touching/be open.

Please help me fix this )

Also if anyone knows where the Ball Through 1 (right) switch is - I would be really grateful.

HERE ARE THE PICTURES :

http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/7012/sany0052v.jpg

http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/3783/sany0054p.jpg

http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/7475/sany0055c.jpg

Please let me know if you need more pictures etc...

Thanks a lot for all the help - It means a lot to me since I'm new to the hobby!

#9 12 years ago

From what I can see, it looks like the switch is fine. I assume when a ball lands in it, it pushes the switch down and the leads make contact, completing the circuit. I'm still new to this hobby as well, but I would say to run a switch test and see if that is working (hopefully you didn't already do this). If that is fine, then it may be a bad transistor? I hope someone more knowledgeable can jump in and help you out.

The only other thing I see is that maybe it shouldn't be making contact with the metal above it?

#10 12 years ago

Thanks for answer! I'm also wondering if its normal for switch to make the contact with the metal above it. And yes - when ball lands it makes contact with the metal bellow.

When I enter switch testing and press down on the cup (where ball lands) nothing happens! It doesn't register it.

Can someone comment on if the metal above should be making contact with the middle "leg" of the switch or also should I bend the upper "leg" in order not to touch the metal construction above it?

Thanks for all the help, as I can't get a serviceman in my area - all your advices are gold!

#11 12 years ago

I tried to isolate the upper metal part in order not to make contact with the metal housing above and it didn't work.
Test does report a bottom ball popper as malfunctioning switch.

Any one has any ideas (please look at the pictures)?

Thanks in advance.

EDIT: after further examination I can see that diode seems missing on the switch? Am I right and if so, which diode is it (what do I say when I go to the radio shack).

Thanks guys.

#12 12 years ago

It looks like the pads might be a little too close together, so it is popping without the ball touching it. You could also file them a little to get a better contact. You should also buy new roms to get it back to English, this stuff is hard enough without the language issue.

#13 12 years ago
Quoted from donjagra:

It looks like the pads might be a little too close together, so it is popping without the ball touching it. You could also file them a little to get a better contact. You should also buy new rooms to get it back to English, this stuff is hard enough without the language issue.

Thanks a lot for your answer!

Can you please just answer me these question as I'm not sure how this switch works.

PICTURE with labeled parts by numbers : http://img855.imageshack.us/img855/8629/switchproblempic.jpg

1# Should the top two metal pads labeled in the picture as number 1. be touching each other when the switch is in the resting position?

2# When you said the pads seem a little too close together are you referring to metal parts distance labeled in the picture as number 2. ?

3# When you say "pads" you mean the metal parts as labeled in the picture as number 4. ?

4# Is there maybe a diode missing as labeled in the picture as number 3. ?

Thanks a lot for answers, I'm not a native speaker and even though I'm new to the hobby I think I'm getting hang of things.

This switch seems like the only issue on my game (except for the shaker motor which I intend to take care of later) and it's very annoying as it prevents normal gameplay

I'm ordering new Roms from ebay - I need the English language ))

Thanks for help, means a lot to me.

#14 12 years ago

Number 2. When the ball comes in contact with the bumper skirt, it will push 2 together. If they are too close together, the machine will think a ball is always there.

The shaker motor is probably turned off, I'm not sure what menu item it is, so you might need the updated rooms to read it.

#15 12 years ago
Quoted from donjagra:

Number 2. When the ball comes in contact with the bumper skirt, it will push 2 together. If they are too close together, the machine will think a ball is always there.

The shaker motor is probably turned off, I'm not sure what menu item it is, so you might need the updated rooms to read it.

Thanks man. I just tried it and it doesn't seem to work

Just to be precise, it's not a bumper in question - rather bottom vertical up kicker.

I'm running out of ideas

Is there maybe a diode missing in the switch??? If so, do you know which one is it (part number or something)?

#16 12 years ago

Sorry, I misread the thread, and the two work exactly the same way. When the ball pushes the gap together, the coil will fire. If the machine can tell when the ball is in there, then the switch is fine. Did you check it with the switch edge menu? Is the switch sticking?

If the switch is working and the coil keeps firing, it is often a transistor or driver on the circuit board that is wearing out. This is where the schematics come in handy. If you don't have them, you can get a copy here.

http://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=Earth+shaker&sortby=name&search=Search+Database&searchtype=quick#753

#17 12 years ago
Quoted from donjagra:

Sorry, I misread the thread. If the machine can tell when the ball is in there, then the switch is fine. Did you check it with the switch edge menu? If the switch is working and the coil keeps firing, it is often a transistor or driver on the circuit board that is wearing out. This is where the schematics come in handy. If you don't have one, you can get it here.

That is the thing. I was able to find the test menu (remember its in German) where I can press down on switches and they will show up on display when activated.

When I press down on the top ball popper it works just fine. BUT when I press down on the bottom ball popper it doesn't register at all
(That is the one I'm having trouble with and it's on the pictures).
So coil keeps firing when the strange 2 ball multiball starts (which shouldn't start) and since the switch doesen't seem to function when I test it - I guess that is the source of my problems (with the 2 ball multiball).

EDIT : When I start the machine it does test and then when I enter report - there is Bottom Ball Popper reported there.

How only thing left is - how to fix this switch?

#18 12 years ago
Quoted from Bole909:

EDIT : When I start the machine it does test and then when I enter report - there is Bottom Ball Popper reported there.

How only thing left is - how to fix this switch?

Check for broken wires first, then loose connections. If you have to, you can replace it.

#19 12 years ago

I don't have an Earthshaker but I do have a BK2000 which should use the same VuK.
Mine is supposed to have a Diode on it and it does. The banded side of the diode is soldered to the fork's lug (which seems to be missing on yours.) The non banded side of the diode is soldered to the bottom most lug which sticks out of the side of the switch. Not sure which diode it needs, probably a 2n4004 (someone please correct me if I am wrong.)

The manual lists the entire "Switch and Diode Assembly" as part # A-11658.

Adjustment 41: Quake Intensity (Beben Intensitaet?) turns the shaker to Off, Street(Strasse)=moderate shaker, Arcade(arkade)=maximum.

IMG_2767.JPGIMG_2767.JPG IMG_2768.JPGIMG_2768.JPG

#20 12 years ago

Thanks a lot for your time SealClubber!

I think I'll have to order a A-11658 switch and replace it.

Now - I'm really getting worried as it seems that on your switch and on my Earthshakers top ball popper (second VuK on my machine) there are 4 wires soldered to it.

On my (As you can see in the picture) there are only 3 wires and I can't find any loose ones beneath the playfield...

#21 12 years ago
Quoted from Bole909:

Now - I'm really getting worried as it seems that on your switch and on my Earthshakers top ball popper (second VuK on my machine) there are 4 wires soldered to it.

On my (As you can see in the picture) there are only 3 wires and I can't find any loose ones beneath the playfield...

I don't think that is an issue. The bottom ball popper is at the end of the switch row. This means that there is no other switch after this one. So there should only be one wire going in. (3 total)

#22 12 years ago
Quoted from SealClubber:

I don't think that is an issue. The bottom ball popper is at the end of the switch row. This means that there is no other switch after this one. So there should only be one wire going in. (3 total)

Thanks a bunch!!!
I think I have all the info now I need to fix this one.
I'll buy a new switch (or get a diode for this one) and resolder the wires.
Hopefully it will solve the problem.

Thanks a lot for support guys!

p.s. I'll open a new thread about the shaker motor later on (after I fix this switch).
I'll go ahead now and see if it's turned off in the settings though I think I did find the setting and turn it on there (still didn't work).

Thanks again,
Bogdan

#23 12 years ago

Hey guys, just to keep you updated - I have finally fixed this problem! ))

It was the switch missing the diode - I had to make a workaround as the lug was broken off. I installed 4007 diode because there were no 4004 ones in the local shop and it worked!!!
I'm going to order now a new switch to replace this "workaround" one I just did.

Strange thing is that once I fixed my bottom ball popper switch, game got stuck on the 3rd ball launch and kicker that sends the new ball to the plunger was constantly firing and that caused top ball popper not to send the ball into 3 ball play. Really strange.

But, I found out that ball through 1 switch was constantly closed causing this problem and that fixed the whole multiball thing and I had an opporunity to play my first normal Earthshaker gameee!!! WEEEE

Only thing left now is to fix the shaker motor and right drop target, everything else works.

Thanks a lot for your help guys, I couldn't do it without you!

#24 12 years ago

Glad you got it working.

7 years later
#25 5 years ago

Thank you for this post! I’ve been working on my earthshaker for about a year. I finally finished and then the two ball multi ball issue started happening. Also lower vuk holding onto ball too long. Realized after this post, diode came off switch prob in all the messing around with the playfield. Soldered back on and all good. Thanks!

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