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(Topic ID: 139856)

1986 Williams High Speed Restoration


By bumpnthump05

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 49 posts
  • 11 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by Freeplay40
  • Topic is favorited by 9 Pinsiders

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#1 5 years ago

Hey everyone, I just figured i would finally start to post my restoration photos of my high speed pinball machine. I purchased it back in April 2015 for $200 AS-IS. It didnt have playfield glass, didnt boot other than some background music from the audio board (which was rare to get it to fire off) and REEKED of cigarette smoke like it had been sitting in a smoke chamber for 20 years. Here are some of the photos of when i first brought it home.

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#2 5 years ago

Started opening it it up and seeing what was wrong with the machine. Well ovbiously by these pictures you can see whats wrong. No need explaining. LOL

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#3 5 years ago

After realizing the GI light plug was toasted i finally fired up all the GI other than just one side.
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#4 5 years ago

I started tearing it down and cleaning anything and everything with bleach to get the stench of smoke out and it worked pretty dang good!
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#5 5 years ago

As i started stripping the game, i started re-working some metal parts. Coin door, speaker grills, coin box brackets and vent pieces. Also got my playfield rubber kit in for when the playfield work commences.

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#6 5 years ago

Some time with my flatbed scanner and some time for pinball pimp to work his magic i now own a stencil kit for repainting this cabinet!

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#7 5 years ago

Started doing the body work on the head of the machine! Bondo, Tack Cloth, Primer, Spot Filler, Sand, Tack Cloth, More primer, And Applying Paint and stencils!
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#8 5 years ago

Great thread. Got a HS of my own that needs some attention. I'll be following this and good luck!

#9 5 years ago

That rootbeer IS AMAZING!!!!! Oh, good work on the machine so far as well

#10 5 years ago

Great project! Mine was $400 as-is and when I was done the playfield looked like this...
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#11 5 years ago

Thats what im cringing over. You see my inserts were raised, and i had to peel off the crappy mylar. Im trying to decide what i should do after i fix the inserts. If i should have it cleared, or just clean the hell out of the playfield, lay down a new mylar and wax the hell out of it. but i still gotta figure out how to remove that mylar glue, Flour and alcohol and goo gone have NOT worked =/ But im going to finish restoring the cab before i cuss large amounts at that playfield. =(

Quoted from BadBrad97:Great project! Mine was $400 as-is and when I was done the playfield looked like this...
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#12 5 years ago
Quoted from bumpnthump05:

but i still gotta figure out how to remove that mylar glue, Flour and alcohol and goo gone have NOT worked =/

Uff not what I wanted to hear...that's exactly what I'm doing to start doing soon

#13 5 years ago

I've always had good luck using just goo gone.

Some pins take more work than others, but goo gone has always done the trick for me.

#14 5 years ago

That's what I did. Just Goo-gone and plastic razor blades. Only lost a little black around a few inserts.

#15 5 years ago
Quoted from bumpnthump05:

Started doing the body work on the head of the machine! Bondo, Tack Cloth, Primer, Spot Filler, Sand, Tack Cloth, More primer, And Applying Paint and stencils!
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Let us know how the stencilling goes. My experience with the Painter's Touch 2X was terrible. It dries quickly and pulling the stencils creates a lot of stringy paint the ruined the job. The normal Painter's Touch is worse because it does not cover black well and you need a ton of coats. The first coat is on there for at least 30 minutes before the stencil starts getting pulled.

#16 5 years ago

Thats what ive used for primer and the first coat of satin black (3rd to last pic) and its smoother than a baby's bottom after tack clothing it prior to painting. Im really liking how its turning out. That picture was still semi wet and makes it look uneven but after drying it looks amazing.

Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

Let us know how the stencilling goes. My experience with the Painter's Touch 2X was terrible. It dries quickly and pulling the stencils creates a lot of stringy paint the ruined the job. The normal Painter's Touch is worse because it does not cover black well and you need a ton of coats. The first coat is on there for at least 30 minutes before the stencil starts getting pulled.

#17 5 years ago
Quoted from bumpnthump05:

Thats what ive used for primer and the first coat of satin black (3rd to last pic) and its smoother than a baby's bottom after tack clothing it prior to painting. Im really liking how its turning out. That picture was still semi wet and makes it look uneven but after drying it looks amazing.

I should have clarified that I meant the quick dry paint is an issue during stenciling. The base coat can be any paint.

#18 5 years ago

$200 is a steal for that game. The mylar is going to be the biggest issue.

So did you make your own cabinet stencils? If so, can you outline the process? Mine needs help.

#19 5 years ago

I pulled the Mylar from my F-14 without much trouble using Goo-Gone. I think the trick is to not rush it.

#20 5 years ago

Thats why i couldnt complain! I still wish it was less due to the money ive been sticking into it, but hey this puppy will be mint. But i scanned my cabinet so jeff pinballpimp could make stencils available for people to purchase. http://pinballpimpstencils.com/?page_id=1539

Quoted from TrainH2o:

$200 is a steal for that game. The mylar is going to be the biggest issue.
So did you make your own cabinet stencils? If so, can you outline the process? Mine needs help.

#21 5 years ago

Mylar glue is one of the few uses for WD-40 on a pinball machine. Spray it on, wait 5 minutes and literally wipe off the glue.

Do any of you have shop out photos of the wiring for the flippers and end of stroke switches?

Thx.

#22 5 years ago

Thanks ill have to give that shot!

Quoted from donjagra:

Mylar glue is one of the few uses for WD-40 on a pinball machine. Spray it on, wait 5 minutes and literally wipe off the glue.
Do any of you have shop out photos of the wiring for the flippers?
Thx.

#23 5 years ago
Quoted from donjagra:

Do any of you have shop out photos of the wiring for the flippers and end of stroke switches?

Try this link Alex. amazon.com link »

First time, crossing fingers.

#24 5 years ago

Wow, thanks Lee. That is a great looking game. I should have bought it instead of this one.

#25 5 years ago

Thanks! It's funny because I'm contemplating a sale. Next to Rollergames it's just a very similar game. It has a lot going for it, beautiful backglass and very nice cabinet but the PF is pretty standard. I was able to get the mylar off ok, but still. I just tried to replace every part I could with new ones.

#26 5 years ago
Quoted from bumpnthump05:

Thats why i couldnt complain! I still wish it was less due to the money ive been sticking into it, but hey this puppy will be mint. But i scanned my cabinet so jeff pinballpimp could make stencils available for people to purchase

I wish someone could do that on an 8 ball deluxe LE.

The only stencil kits available are made by twisted....

#27 5 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

I wish someone could do that on an 8 ball deluxe LE.
The only stencil kits available are made by twisted....

Check in with this thread, he might be in the works of doing so. Or maybe request it? https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-pinball-pimp-cabinet-stencils-available-now

#28 5 years ago

Doing some stencil work tonight on the head!
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#29 5 years ago

More paint progress!!!
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#30 5 years ago
Quoted from bumpnthump05:

More paint progress!!!

*POOF* It's like magic!

#31 5 years ago

Looks awesome !!! Do the stencils tell you the exact paint code colors, or brand of paint to buy?

#32 5 years ago
Quoted from TrainH2o:

Looks awesome !!! Do the stencils tell you the exact paint code colors, or brand of paint to buy?

Nope i had to go find paint to match

#34 5 years ago

Well, i had a hiccup with the paint. The paint was cured and dry but i guess this spot wasnt adhered to the black when i pulled off my yellow stencil on the other side. Talked to Jeff @ Pinball Pimp Stencils and he said to cut some 1/8" strips of blue painters tape, and slowly tape the edges and then tape around that and spray some paint on it. Another set-back but i guess i gotta do what i gotta do.

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#35 5 years ago

sorry to see that happen....you'll recover

#36 5 years ago
Quoted from bumpnthump05:

Well, i had a hiccup with the paint. The paint was cured and dry but i guess this spot wasnt adhered to the black when i pulled off my yellow stencil on the other side. Talked to Jeff @ Pinball Pimp Stencils and he said to cut some 1/8" strips of blue painters tape, and slowly tape the edges and then tape around that and spray some paint on it. Another set-back but i guess i gotta do what i gotta do.

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Oh yeah. I had that happen too once. I found if I really lightly sanded the black after the stencil was down, then it stuck a little better. If I remember, I used something really fine like 600 and was careful not to roughen up the edges of the stencil.

#37 5 years ago
Quoted from bumpnthump05:

Well, i had a hiccup with the paint. The paint was cured and dry but i guess this spot wasnt adhered to the black when i pulled off my yellow stencil on the other side. Talked to Jeff @ Pinball Pimp Stencils and he said to cut some 1/8" strips of blue painters tape, and slowly tape the edges and then tape around that and spray some paint on it. Another set-back but i guess i gotta do what i gotta do.

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Just curious about cure time. I was paranoid. The shortest wait time I did was 3.5 days. and usually 4 or more. Until it cures through to the bottom it will peel off. After 2 days it is only cured enough to topcoat but it is not fully cured.

#38 5 years ago

Getting ahead of myself but decided to print the apron cards

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#39 5 years ago

cool cards.

#40 5 years ago

Started working on re-assembling the pieces on the head. I started hunting down new labels to re-label the inside of the backbox. Going to clean, prep, and put the new labels on tonight i hope. I printed them on 67lb cardstock. Ive got it saved as a PDF if anyone needs the file, just message me. Keep in mind these labels only apply to high speed.

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#41 5 years ago

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3 weeks later
#42 5 years ago

Just got the display board repainted, displays reinstalled and led bulbs!

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#43 5 years ago

Back panel repainted, new labels installed and boards ready to be screwed down!

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#44 5 years ago

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#45 5 years ago

The head is complete minus the harness. FINALLY!! Now the bodywork and stenciling needs to commence on the cabinet.

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#46 4 years ago

Tonight, Got the Backbox wired up and a couple of new molex put on minus a couple of loose ends from the last owner that i will take up tommorrow.

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#47 4 years ago

I decided to try and rig it up on my floor and see if i could get this $140 untested ebay board works plus also see how my leds for the back glass looks. It finally works! At first i couldnt get my displays to work, i had -100v but no +100v. Come to find out 3 hours of trouble shooting later, i saw that there was a new resistor i forgot to solder one leg on. A few issues i have to iron out, like why the music wont play, when im in the settings it acts like a button is stuck, the siren light wont work, and a few other things but this is BIG progress!
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#48 4 years ago

Excellent thread! Doing the same as you know so this will be interesting to follow! =)

#49 4 years ago

I went a little further with LED's in that back box. (SR liked my new ramp!)

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