(Topic ID: 308686)

1985 Williams Sorcerer Pop Bumper locks on

By hjh632

10 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 8 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 days ago by drewbo81
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 10 months ago

I'm starting to understand EM games and schematics to the point that fixing my EM games is possible. BUT I am a total Noob when it comes to SS games. My Sorcerer is working except for two pop bumpers. One of them locks on as soon as the game is turned on.

I notice that the 22uF 25V axial electrolytic capacitor on the bumper that locks on has broken off. WOULD THAT FAULT MAKE THE BUMPER LOCK ON? I'd sure love to have an easy fix. (I think the other bumper that never works has a bad transistor, but I'm mostly for now interested in getting the lock-on bumper working.) Henry

#2 10 months ago

Look in the manual, find the driver transistor for that pop bumper and test it. It’s probably bad and it’s always providing a path to ground.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11#Special_solenoid_problems

#3 10 months ago

Thanks YeOldPin and thanks for the link. I kinda knew replacing the capacitor wasn't going to solve it.

9 months later
#4 8 days ago

Resurrecting this thread. My sorcerer pop is locked on as well. It was 100 and all I did was go to adjust gap on switch cuz they were a bit sluggish. Anyways left pop is locked on. Transistor tests fine. I replaced cap resistor and diode on switch stack. Not sure where to go from here.

#5 8 days ago

Drew the next thing I would try is unplugging the connector at the motherboard and testing at the board. That way you’ll know if it’s a playfield issue or a motherboard issue.

#6 8 days ago
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

Drew the next thing I would try is unplugging the connector at the motherboard and testing at the board. That way you’ll know if it’s a playfield issue or a motherboard issue.

If I unplug special solenoid ground it still locks on. So I think its playfield but after changing out parts...still stumped

#7 8 days ago

If by unplug the special solenoid ground you mean the input from the pf to the board, and it still locks on, it's the board. (Or at least where you would start).

Unplug both the input and output you can then measure the output connector pin that goes to that pop - if it has continuity to ground, the transistor, predriver, or logic chips are bad. You can test those with a logic probe to see which one has the errant signal that it shouldn't be. You can even get clever and ground the input pin and make sure the logic levels change.

Did you adjust the switch with the power on?

For others' future reference, the cap/resistor combo just provides a minimum length pulse so that the pop can react. One lead cut will not cause the circuit to lock on (but if it were connected and the cap was shorted, it would)

#8 7 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

If by unplug the special solenoid ground you mean the input from the pf to the board, and it still locks on, it's the board. (Or at least where you would start).
Unplug both the input and output you can then measure the output connector pin that goes to that pop - if it has continuity to ground, the transistor, predriver, or logic chips are bad. You can test those with a logic probe to see which one has the errant signal that it shouldn't be. You can even get clever and ground the input pin and make sure the logic levels change.
Did you adjust the switch with the power on?
For others' future reference, the cap/resistor combo just provides a minimum length pulse so that the pop can react. One lead cut will not cause the circuit to lock on (but if it were connected and the cap was shorted, it would)

Thank you for that. I think I narrowed it down to shorted transistor and yes I stupidly adjusted switch with power on that caused the short.

-Drew

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