1979 Gottlieb Hulk - Sound Issue

(Topic ID: 172038)

1979 Gottlieb Hulk - Sound Issue


By Zero-One

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 73 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by Zero-One
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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There are 73 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 2 years ago

Lynn ,
Thanks for that information.

Something else Ive been wanting to ask., are the fuses in these games anything special or can I buy replacements at a local hardware store?

#52 2 years ago

Ok update,

I got the main connector re-pinned that I wanted to do but it did not change anything.......(that's fine it needed to be done anyway)
BUT......I'm embarrassed to say (I swear I checked this) the 1 amp Primary fuse was blown. All of the other fuses tested ok,.
I ran and grabbed a replacement 1 amp slow blow and as soon as the game is powered on the fuse pops. So if I can find the source of the short I'm sure the game will work.
Any ideas?

#53 2 years ago

All the fuses are standard.

My recommendation would be to attempt a power up with various pieces disconnected. Start with all boards disconnected, then move to connect power supply board, MPU, driver, displays, and sound, powering each time. Basically, you want to see at which point the fuse pops, so you can narrow down which piece is the culprit.

#54 2 years ago

Ok. Now that I think about it, when it all started the first tip was some strange noises it was making.....like R2D2 type noises and then it quit. Hmmm...I will start with the sound board.

#55 2 years ago

Make sure you do all these swaps with power off.Connectors don't like being plugged in with power on.

#56 2 years ago

Will do thanks Dave.

I tried the sound board and no luck. Need to go purchase a handful of fuses. At $2.60 a "pop" lets hope it reveals something soon lol.

#57 2 years ago
Quoted from Zero-One:

At $2.60 a "pop" lets hope it reveals something soon lol.

$2.60 per fuse? Good grief, where are you getting your fuses?

Quoted from Zero-One:

BUT......I'm embarrassed to say (I swear I checked this) the 1 amp Primary fuse was blown. All of the other fuses tested ok,.

http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=532&picno=43310&zoom=1

There are no 1 amp fuses on the transformer panel.

The primary fuse is a 5 amp slow-blow fuse. Using a 1 amp fuse there instead will blow every time.

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#59 2 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

Oh, I almost forgot--do you have the additional fuse mods installed? One of those is 1 amp.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-system-1-small-transformer-issues#post-2392905

The later systems came with the 1 amp on them from the factory, I know both my Count-Down and Pinball Pool have them so I would assume Hulk would as well (yeah, I know what happens..)

#60 2 years ago

I see on clay's site, it's labeled as "primary fuse".

http://www.pinrepair.com/sys1/#addfuses

Ok, so that fuse protects the transformer from input voltage, but it's likely that something is going wrong on the power supply, causing it to draw too much and/or short the voltages.

Can you post some photos of your power supply?

[edit]: Nevermind, I see that you posted some photos on page 1. Yeah, that power supply is a mess. Either refurbish it with new parts, or replace it with an after-market board.

http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_1#Recommended_Power_Supply_Updates_.26_Repairs

[edit2]: Nevermind again, lol. I see that you said you replaced the power supply and MPU. What exactly did you use to replace the power supply? There are multiple people creating these power supplies. GPE's power supply has been out of stock for a long time, so it may actually be someone else's that just looks like GPE's design.

#61 2 years ago

Another thing I thought of--is the A2-J1 power connector plugged in the correct way? It's easily reversible, and it can cause problems/damage if it's plugged in the wrong way.

http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_1#The_Upside_Down_A2J1_Power_Supply_Connection

#62 2 years ago

Here are some pics. I appreciate all the information however my frustration level is getting to high and its mostly from me not being smart enough with electrical diagnosis to be able to fix this. I want to apologize for wasting so much of everyone's time with this. I will probably just have to take it to the local pin repair guy. He is a super guy and really knows his stuff, my only issue is not having the $300 its going to cost to repair it so it will have to sit for awhile and that really sucks. He said on the phone it sounds like one of the bridge rectifiers or whatever they are could be bad on the bottom board.
I do appreciate all the help, I'm just not smart enough for this. Sorry guys.

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#63 2 years ago

On the power supply, disconnect J2 and J3, and try powering up the game then and see if the power supply still blows.

#64 2 years ago

Yes, the fuse still blew with J2 and J3 unplugged.

Also while performing this test I noticed another fuse on the under side of the play field I have not seen before. A 2 Amp slow blow. I pulled it out and it is blown also. I'm really not sure where to go now.

#65 2 years ago

The fuses under the playfield are for the solenoids. You can ignore them for the moment.

Disconnect the power supply completely and see what happens.

If the fuse still blows, there's definately a problem with the transformer panel.

If it doesn't blow, the issue may be with the wires or voltages feeding into the power supply, or something wrong with the power supply itself--possibly one of the rectifier diodes.

#66 2 years ago

The fuse does NOT blow with the power supply completely unhooked.

#67 2 years ago
Quoted from Zero-One:

The fuse does NOT blow with the power supply completely unhooked.

Ok, check the voltages on the J1 connector.

Check all the diodes on the power supply with your multimeter.

If you recently bought it, maybe contact the supplier, and explain that the primary fuse on the transformer when just the power supply is connected. It'd possible a component failed or was installed incorrectly during assembly.

#68 2 years ago

I contacted the maker of the power supply and told him what I was experiencing and the didn't even hesitate and emailed back that I had a bad bridge rectifier. That is also what the local pinball repair guy said. I had the wife swing my and pick up a couple replacements.
I got home late tonight so instead of jumping in an soldering in the new ones I figured i would test the old ones and they test GOOD

I guess there is no reason to replace them at this point.

#69 2 years ago

Are you sure they were tested properly? Sometimes it's a little confusing.

http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_a_Bridge_Rectifier

I've heard of a few cases where a diode would test ok with a multimeter, but fail while under load, so there's that too.

#70 2 years ago

I believe I tested it correctly. I followed the guide on Pinrepair.com

Should I go ahead and replace them just to see if they might still be bad (failing under load)?

#71 2 years ago

Ok so now the guy I got the power supply from said if the fuse does not blow with the power supply unplugged that it is a "damaged" power supply. Said if I sent him the power supply he would test/repair and send me another good power supply. Seems willing to help and like a nice guy so that's good. I'm going to take the machine in to the local pin repair guy and let him fix it.

Thanks everyone for all of the help.

#72 2 years ago

Thank you for the great information!
Here is an update:

I boxed up the new power supply to send back for a replacement since the 1 amp fues only blows with the power supply plugged in.
While it was out I got a wild hair and decided to reinstall the original power supply.......the game works!

Now, it acts different but I think that's the new MPU board. One thing I'm having trouble with now is that the "shooters" (that's what they are called in the parts book), do funny things. The left one will actuate twice at times. Once to shoot the ball out and a second time a second later. The right one will stick with the ball in it and then blow the 2 amp fuse on the underside of the playfield lol.
This is really helping me learn about these machines lol. I was told that you need to constantly tinker with them but wow, I play one game and then work on it for three weeks lol.

(Note....the game really sounds different when you play a test game with the glass off!!! Wow!)

1 week later
#73 2 years ago

The game is up and running again. Thanks for the input.

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