Check the sound board and driver board for cracked solder joints.

Make sure the edge connectors are clean--they should be shiny, not dull (use a pink rubber eraser to clean them)

I would start with the edge connectors. With the power off, pull of the connector to the sound pcb and reseat it (pull it off, put it back on) and see if that clears it up. If not, reseat the other end of that cable in the driver board in the back box. If that doesn't work, pull the sound board and look for cold solder joints, then look at the driver board for cold solder. When the boards are out, you can 'eraser' the fingers clean to improve the connection.

Just what they said. Always clean or preferably replace connectors on these old gottliebs. I'm in Lincoln, so we'll have to play pinball sometime. Welcome to pinside and the hobby. Let us know what you find out.

He means repin the connectors. You can usually reuse the plastic housings.

If the game is working fine, you may not need to do that, but it can be a source of issues of you are having problems.

If you don't have the same pins, then look at pinball resource and also Marco specialties online. Both are great resources gottlieb machines. Glad you got it working

I usually head for greatplainselectronics.com, bigdaddy-enterprises.com, mouser.com, digikey.com, and a few other places for connectors, pins, and electronics components. Marco & PBR tend to be more expensive when it comes to components.

I'm guessing what you're looking for might be a quick disconnect terminal like these:

pasted_image (resized).png

There's a brass or phosphor bronze quick disconnect terminal that is a good match to the original terminals--I'll try to grab the part number later tonight.

Using an automotive connector with a bright color on the insulation just looks odd to me in an older game.

^good to know these other dealers. Thanks

Be aware that the repinning is easily a couple of hours, even with the proper tools. Much, much longer if you don't have the proper tools.

Also, I had an issue repinning our Solar Ride where the extractor tool didn't fit the original housings. I just wound up ordering replacement housings for those I hadn't managed to repin the hard way, cut the original connectors off and stripped, pinned and seated into the new housings. Marco Specialties actually carries most of them, although in two cases I had to order one position larger than required, and cut out a key in each one (still keyed though), as they didn't have the exact size in stock. The extractor does fit the new housings, interestingly enough, so I suspect the specification changed slightly, or the original housings had some dimensional shift.

Here's the link. You want the single sided, .156 inch types. http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/ELEC-CON?S_CAT2=GOTTLIEB

I wanted a hulk for a while. Probably still would get one someday. It's a beautiful Machine. We need pics of this pin.

No laughing man. I seriously want a hulk for the same reasons. I had a want ad for one at beginning of this year. Eventually decided against it per my wife's opinion(lol) but now I want one again. I think it's one of the best looking pins along with gottlieb spiderman. Gameplay is a little slow, but with multiple players competing for score, it's a blast. Looks great man. Also, I started with only one a few years ago with a black hole. I love the old gottliebs. Beautiful game, welcome to the hobby, and we'll have to meet up sometime. Congrats on getting hulk.

Whoops, It seems I got distracted and forgot to follow-up earlier, so here it goes:

quick disconnect terminal .205" 18-22awg Part# 42198-1

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/42198-1/A111180CT-ND/4142566

This is what will match the quick disconnect terminals in a system 1 game.

It doesn't sound like a connector issue to me either.

Does all sound appear to drop out, or just certain ones?

Does it gradually fade out, cut out suddenly, start getting garbled before cutting out in some way, or something else?

Can you post a video of what's happening as the sound cuts out?

A couple of things to try:

Is the connection between the sound board and the speaker solid? And is the voltage to the sound board consistent? The former should be reasonably easy to check, the latter requires at least a multimeter, and quite possibly an oscilloscope so you can actually watch the waveform.

Sorry to hear you are having sound issues with the pin.Youve come to the right place to get it figured out.

Man, sorry to hear. With my gottlieb BH I ended up just taking the time to install all new connector pins. That alone fixes a lot of problems you wouldn't expect it to fix. Second, I ended up just buying all new rottendog boards so that I will probably have fewer issues. My machine has had zero issues in several years now. Costly up front and time consuming, but worth it in the long run. Let me know if you want any help sometime with anything on it.

Pull the MPU and check for cracked solder joints on the back.

I would also take a look at the ROM chip legs for tarnish/corrosion and the socket to make sure it makes contact with all the legs.

Yes, the main board in the backbox. Some people use the terms interchangeably. However, "CPU" usually refers to the actual processor chip on the board.

That power supply should really be refurbished or replaced. Those diodes that are sticking off the board make me nervous.

As for the MPU, it looks like the two chips (Z8 and Z28) in the lower left were hit with alkaline, but not replaced. The first thing I would do is replace anything with corrosion on it. Z8 interacts with the CPU a little bit, so I might suspect there could be something going wrong there.

http://www.pinrepair.com/sys1/#tools

But, if you'd rather just replace the board and not deal with it, that's fine too. Just let someone else have the old MPU if you don't want to keep it--they can sometimes be repaired, the ROM chip can reused to fix other games, or sometimes those spider chips can be used to fix other boards. I pick up boards like this all the time.

I have the Ni-Wumph in my Hulk and it works great. I also replaced my power supply board with this: http://rottendog.us/GPS002.html

Keep at it. Let me know if you need any pics or other help. Also, look at your fuses. i had one go out during a party and it took out the slingshot kickers. Worth a shot before you pony up the cash for replacement boards!

Here's a pic of mine and ASM. Signed on the apron by Stan Lee and Lou Ferigno (Spidey only Stan, natch). These are my "never leaving" pins!

IMG_3909 (resized).JPG

It's a widebody, and older, so it's slow compared to modern dmd pins, but I love it! Lots of shots, and when dialed in a lot of fun. Plus the art (for me, who owns over 13,000 comic books) is just fantastic! I find Hulk plays faster, but ASM is just as fun.

Be aware, however, that System 80s need ground mods, capacitor replacements, and TLC to be "bulletproof". There are guides online that show how to do this. But, like you are finding with your Hulk, all pinball machine have their quirks and issues--fixing and tweaking almost gets to be as fun as playing.

Here's a pic from MegaCon in Orlando last year--the guys from Free Play Florida had a gameroom set up to promote the show, and asked to borrow my machines. They both were played all weekend almost non-stop, so they CAN be fixed and be enjoyed--don't give up!

IMG_5464.PNG

I would probably wait for a new power supply, like forceflow said that one looks kind of sketchy. As far as Rottendog, I read in another thread that Ace at Ni-wumpf had told someone that it is NOT compatable, but i have one in my Joker Poker along with a ni-wumpf and it seems to work fine. Might be worth an e-mail to ni-wumpf just to double check before ordering.

Nice looking Hulk, i look forward to adding one to my collection one day, fun game.

Cool, that's good to know, straight from the source.

GPE power supply -> https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=125-101

RE-pin it, get a pascil board and you'll never mess with it again

Thats the way to go on these system 1 games and get a new sound board from pascal

Yea you could have some bad conectors or sound board . Pascal is 60 euro and not sure if there are any others available . Its on the lower right side of cab by coin box . I have a original in my hulk and pascal in buck rogers

IMG_1383 (resized).JPG

IMG_1384 (resized).JPG

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=77

This is where I got the connector housings for our Solar Ride. As near as I can tell, the specification for the connectors was changed slightly at some point after the System 1 was made, and the extraction tool also changed. My extraction tool fit the new housings just fine, but not the old housings. It was cheaper (time and money) for me to just CUT the wires off as close as possible, strip the ends, and crimp/install into the new housings.

As a note, a couple of the connectors, you'll have to order one position larger, and cut one of the "keys" out so that it will fit. It'll still be keyed enough that you can't really mess it up unless you misinstall one of the points.