(Topic ID: 170750)

1979 Bally Kiss - Playfield Clear Coating on Mylar Overlay

By pinteresting

2 years ago

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  • 53 posts
  • 16 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 months ago by boydsc331
  • Topic is favorited by 12 Pinsiders


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There are 53 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 2 years ago

I've restored the entire machine minus the playfield. The playfield has had a mylar overlay applied to it but it is peeling and bubbling. I'm looking at redoing the mylar. Has anyone clear coated over top of these graphic playfield overlays?

I would look at touching up the playfield but the old artwork has been sanded off.

#2 2 years ago

If there's an overlay already there with bubbles under it, it has to go...

Can you post a good pic of your field?

#3 2 years ago

This is the worst area on the play field. There are other areas where it is wrinkling and peeling up.

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#4 2 years ago

I have cleared over overlays. It can be done and comes out nice but you have to be carefull. and I'm with cody_chunn you should remove the whole overlay and start with a fresh one.

#5 2 years ago

Looks like the problem is with the translucent laminate. Or is a mylar that was applied after to install the overlay?
The cupped inserts can repeat this problem installing a new overlay, or a new laminate if you can remove only the original mylar/laminate.

#6 2 years ago

A friend of mine applied this mylar a few years ago. He sanded the old play field down, clear coated and applied the new mylar graphic overlay. For some reason, it's lifting all over the place. Being that I have to redo it, I'm going to flat sand and re-clear the whole thing, apply the mylar and clear again.

boydsc331 Thanks for that link. VERY helpful.

#7 2 years ago

Screw the Mylars. You can get in the cue now for a brand-new CPR Kiss playfield.


#8 2 years ago
Quoted from pinteresting:

A friend of mine applied this mylar a few years ago. He sanded the old play field down, clear coated and applied the new mylar graphic overlay. For some reason, it's lifting all over the place. Being that I have to redo it, I'm going to flat sand and re-clear the whole thing, apply the mylar and clear again.
@boydsc331 Thanks for that link. VERY helpful.

I would say if you do the overlay again, clear over the top of the overlay too. I think it helps keep it flat and locked down to the playfield.

#9 2 years ago

If you're going to fer sure pull that one up...try a heat gun on that center grid. See if you can get it to shrink flat. You have nothing to lose (don't hold it so long it damages the inserts underneath!), and it might work. That may help others down the road.

Or not..just an idea that popped into mind.

#10 2 years ago

Ok. This is where I am.... I've finished the cabinet and I pulled everything off the top of the playfield. I built a box to support the playfield which sanding and clear coating is in progress.

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#11 2 years ago

The plan is to shoot a clear coat on the playfield as it is, block sand that sucker flat as all get out, apply the new mylar, color tint the mylar so the white is not pure white and then throw some heavy coats of clear over top of that. Clear coating will start on Monday.

#12 2 years ago

Oh here are the rest of the pictures of this process. Just too many to post here.

#13 2 years ago

I would try and block all the holes that go through to the under side of the playfield . you wouldn't want the clear to coat any of the contacts on the switches under the playfield. Or solenoid plungers.

#14 2 years ago

looks good so far. do you know what kind of clear youre going to use ?

#15 2 years ago

I'm not sure yet. I'm going to do a test first. I'll let you know as soon as I do my test.

#16 2 years ago

Get those pop bumper nails out of the playfield before you do all that work! You also need to level and fill all of those inserts!

#17 2 years ago

Hah. Thanks vdojaq! I'm glad you told me.

#18 2 years ago

I'll knock out the spiral shanks before I clear coat. The painter at my work is going to do the clear coating. He is going to use PPG DC3010. I'm going to bleach the shooter lane before the first clear coat to remove the dark crevasses. Ben used a stripper on the shooter lane to remove all traces of the original clear coat.

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#19 2 years ago

Boy. They didn't bother using good plywood for these playfields on these pins.This is something like 3-ply with a veneer. I think they painted the backs so they wouldn't suck up moisture and warp.

#20 2 years ago

I'm going to be applying a new mylar overlay down to this playfield. There are a couple mods that I want to do prior to applying the mylar and the clear coats. If you look at the original playfields, they have white that was silkscreened around the lane guide and the top corners of the playfields. With that in mind, here's the plan...

1. Remove parts from playfield and sand down - DONE
2. Paint white in corners and areas where lane guides are
3. Apply first coating of clear, fill low spots and sand
4. Apply mylar overlay
5. Spray lightly tinted clear coat over mylar and white areas to "warm" up the white
6. Apply two additional heavy coats of clear to playfield
7. Buff and polish if necessary

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#21 2 years ago

You may have a hard time getting rid of the dirt in the crevices in the shooter lane. Some folks paint it when everything else fails. See for instance https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-taf-restoration/page/2#post-3384580.

#22 2 years ago

Is that your playfield ? Looks nice if it is. Wish my projects moved as fast as yours.

#23 2 years ago

hah. No. Thats not my playfield. I wish. Mine is sanded blank at the moment.

#24 2 years ago

Interesting to see the lighter areas where the Mylar was. Is this light/UV filtering related?

#25 2 years ago

Here's Ben working on the inserts to make them as clean as possible. They have some bulb yellowing and the old clear coat that had caused some discoloration. Tomorrow, we throw down clear... I hope.

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#26 2 years ago

I'd like to start repopulating the playfield this weekend but chances are look slim. I might be looking at Monday. Ugh. I hate waiting.

#27 2 years ago

Don't forget if you have any bulb sockets left under the playfield, put some bulbs in them before you clear. I forgot to do that on my comet and made a lot of extra work for myself. They were so coated with clear I couldn't even force a bulb in them lol.

#28 2 years ago

LOL. Yeah. I'm actually going to replace them all. It's about $100 worth of sockets

#29 2 years ago

Can you actually clear the sanded playfield, apply the decal and clear over it and start repopulating the playfield within this short of a time frame? I thought you needed at the very least a couple weeks before starting to put anything back on the playfield.

#30 2 years ago

I've done this whole process on a kiss, I hope you checked all the inserts and reglued them. Otherwise in about a month your going to have some nice ghosting. Any wiggle or slightly lose insert will ghost because the clear as it cures pulled on the insert, the clear is actually shrinking. I would wait a few weeks before sanding flat and installing the overlay.

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#32 2 years ago

My friend bought it. I'll ask him. Not sure.

All the inserts have been glued using water thin CA glue. I'd be surprised if they ever come loose.

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#33 2 years ago

The playfield is under heat in the spraybooth. This is just the first coat. This will get sanded and the inserts will get leveled.

#34 2 years ago

Interesting process, thanks for documenting.

#35 2 years ago

Ok. So Ben is 4 coats in on this playfield. He's done the coats thinner and kept it under heat all week to cure the clear coats. He will sand this weekend to bring it flat and then the mylar will be applied. The mylar will get a light warm tint applied to knock the white down a bit. 3 more heavy coats will be sprayed over the mylar over the course of this coming week. I'm excited to see how this goes.

#36 2 years ago

After flat sanding, you can see the low spots (shiny). These will all get filled and sanded again. Once this is done and the inserts are level, the mylar will get applied.

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#37 2 years ago

Further sanding and additional clear.

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#38 2 years ago

Ben's workmanship is amazing. I work with him making props for movies. He's a really fine painter. I'll show you what he does to the shooter lane to fix the crappy looking layered plywood. Clear coating over mylar isn't my ultimate fix for this machine. I'd rather get a reproduction playfield or touch up an original but in this case, the original was already sanded down.

We'll see how this goes.

This is all prep work prior to applying the vinyl BTW. There will be several coats of clear after the mylar is applied.

#39 2 years ago

Thanks for documenting. I wish I had a booth at my disposal ...


#40 2 years ago

Looks very similar to the pictures I've been taking for my Bally Joust overlay effort. Similar, but mine are not in a professional booth and all that. I still had the cupping and insert edges that had to be filled. All of that is now done and it looks so nice. One more coat of clear before I can put the overlay on. Overlay isn't ready though because I redid the art in autocad and the local printer's machine can't import that and get it to play nice with their software. Efforting that part still.

#41 2 years ago

If you can video tape the actual application of the overlay, wet or dry. I really want to see how you deal with the air bubbles while applying

#42 2 years ago

Will do. I'll video the application.

Are you at about the same point I am in my playfield restoration? This will be interesting....

#43 2 years ago

I did the same as your doing when I put an overlay on my kiss. I sanded down to bare wood and replaced all the inserts. My inserts were total crap and had to go. I pre-sanded all the inserts to get them close to flat and then flattened again after they were installed. Once everything was flat I used some west system epoxy to seal the wood. I spread it over, let it soak and squeegee all of the excess off. Once that had cured I wet sanded to achieve a super smooth base for the vinyl overlay. Installed the overlay with the wet method to get all of the bubbles out and get it straight. Alignment was off on some holes but I found a happy medium. I ended up keeping everything on the lower playfield lined up great and there are some insert holes up top that are slightly off....best I could get it.
Next I did a light coat of two part auto clear (I used Nasons) and then two medium coats with sanding in between. The final coat turned out so well that I decided not to do a final sand and buff in fear of screwing it up. Turned out great for my first time doing an overlay and spraying clear.
Its good enough that I wouldnt buy a new playfield to swap. Much more satisfying then just swapping a PF.
I relied heavily on Vids playfield restoration guide while researching before the project. I had never done any kind of playfield work before. Give me a shout if there is anything I can help with.
Check out the inserts with art still intact after sanding(2nd pic). Yeah I would say they were cupped quite badly. 3rd pic shows new inserts installed.

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#44 2 years ago

....And the famous before pic. This machine had been stored outside for an undetermined amount of time. I built an entire new lower cabinet and all metal parts were replaced. The coin door was one big chunk of rust....what a mess.

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1 week later
#45 2 years ago

any updates ?

1 year later
#46 1 year ago

It just dawned on me that I never updated anyone with how that thing turned out. I'll take some pictures of the machine fully assembled in a few weeks. It came out really great. My opinion.

This is it baked with 8 coats of clear. 4 coats sanded below mylar. 4 coats over top the mylar sanded and polished.

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#47 1 year ago

These pictures are from mid project. I'll take some better pictures of the inserts after they had been leveled and sanded.

#48 1 year ago

Very nice I just finished one to.

#49 1 year ago

I wish I had taken the time to paint the white back in but not a big deal.

#50 1 year ago

If anyone is looking for a really great guy to clear coat their playfield, contact Ben at playfieldrestoration@gmail.com

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