agreed systematic i am not. i believe i have it narrowed down to just the mpu board as everything else is either working or intermitent. feel free to give more direction.
thanks
blake
agreed systematic i am not. i believe i have it narrowed down to just the mpu board as everything else is either working or intermitent. feel free to give more direction.
thanks
blake
It sounded like it might have been booting into audit (dead batteries)...the quick on/off twice is supposed to bypass that but that game might not even have an interlock switch.
When you apply power, what do the LEDs on the CPU board do?
they both usually come on and stay on. but i have noticed sometimes they come on along with the display then go out and the score display follows.
OK, have we verified all power supply voltages are correct as well as test points on CPU?
Remove the driver board from the game. Power up and press the diagnostic button on CPU. What do the LEDs do?
driver board removed:
when the display is lit /both leds are on and i push diagnostic switch the bottom light goes out and the top stays. the display also stops.
if i power on and the display is not on:
both leds may be on but will not change if i hit the diagnostic button
ok this time when i powered on both leds came on but the display was not: i hit diagnostic and both leds went out and display came on and the main display is no longer counting up from 1-24
display is coming on almost everytime now. i have the display flickering as if the mpu board is testing for it.
so now if i turn the self test to manual and press the advance button i can cycle through the display numbers on the master display
Quoted from Blake:so now if i turn the self test to manual and press the advance button i can cycle through the display numbers on the master display
while this happens both leds are off
The first thing to do is get the CPU booting reliably. That means at power up the LEDs come on and go out. If one or both remain on the CPU didn't boot properly.
If it did boot properly and is working, pressing the CPU Diag button should result in the LEDs blinking twice then going out.
Until you get the CPU stable, fiddling inside the coin door is wasting time.
now on the test points marked 12v and 5vdc i have 11.2 and 4.8 as expected. but what should the values be for the other test points marked? or are they not important right now.
also i reflowed and added solder to all socketed chips.
I just suffered through your exact problems on the same game last night. I had a spare driver board and got the MPU to boot, but something was wrong with it. Then I replaced the MPU with another I had. It booted so I switched out the roms and ended up with a working game. I am convinced that these sys3-9 games just need the headers and connectors completely replaced if you want a dependable boardset.
Fix the battery or install a cap so you can repeatably boot without the audit annoyance.
i purchased a remote battery holder but have not installed it yet. i also replaced a half dozen chips on the mpu. i have heard there are kits for replacing the connector between the mpu and driver??
Have you also re-capped the power board? Great Plains Electronics sells a Williams 3 cap kit if you need one.
I'm working on a World Cup restore as well... need replacement decals for the spinner. Don't want to derail this thread so if you can help just PM me. Thx & good luck!
Did you put new ROMs into your game? Are you sure you have the right IC17?? This game uses a special IC17 White 2 ROM. If you have the stock standard white 2 at IC17, the game will not go into attract mode. There are still places still hosting the incorrect IC17 ROM for this game. I just went through this issue and figured it out the hard way... IF anyone needs the ROM, send me a message and I will email it.
i know my mpu does not have any white roms. i replaced a bunch of ic's but non of the roms. i think anyway. i will identify what i changed and get back to you. i know i still have the scanbe sockets which need replacing.
thanks
blake
Quoted from Blake:i know my mpu does not have any white roms. i replaced a bunch of ic's but non of the roms. i think anyway. i will identify what i changed and get back to you. i know i still have the scanbe sockets which need replacing.
thanks
blake
Don't take this as me being harsh, just truth.
You are wasting your time trying to trouble shoot faults while having scanbe IC sockets on the MPU board. These IC sockets are the absolute worst of all of them. Maybe even worse then those crappy brown ones on the frist bally generation. If you pry the top off of a scanbe socket, you quickly see why they are terrible.
Quoted from SadSack:I just suffered through your exact problems on the same game last night. I had a spare driver board and got the MPU to boot, but something was wrong with it. Then I replaced the MPU with another I had. It booted so I switched out the roms and ended up with a working game. I am convinced that these sys3-9 games just need the headers and connectors completely replaced if you want a dependable boardset.
Fix the battery or install a cap so you can repeatably boot without the audit annoyance.
when replacing with a remote battery holder does anyone know which lugs to put the positive and negative leads on?
thanks
blake
Quoted from barakandl:Don't take this as me being harsh, just truth.
You are wasting your time trying to trouble shoot faults while having scanbe IC sockets on the MPU board. These IC sockets are the absolute worst of all of them. Maybe even worse then those crappy brown ones on the frist bally generation. If you pry the top off of a scanbe socket, you quickly see why they are terrible.
do most places sell replacements? which would you recommend?
Quoted from Blake:do most places sell replacements? which would you recommend?
Plenty and places sell IC sockets. For a System 3-4 MPU/Driver boards could use 40pin IC socket, 24 pin IC socket, and sometimes even the clock generator is in an 16pin scanbe socket.
here are some great plains electronics part numbers
IS-640-TL
IS-624-TL
IS-316-TL
Unless you are well practiced in board repair, I can't recommend you trying to replacing IC sockets on your computer board yourself.
Quoted from barakandl:Plenty and places sell IC sockets. For a System 3-4 MPU/Driver boards could use 40pin IC socket, 24 pin IC socket, and sometimes even the clock generator is in an 16pin scanbe socket.
here are some great plains electronics part numbers
IS-640-TL
IS-624-TL
IS-316-TL
Unless you are well practiced in board repair, I can't recommend you trying to replacing IC sockets on your computer board yourself.
i cant say im well practiced but i have replaced at least a half dozen ic chips on this board. two with sockets. certainly helps having the proper tools. thanks for the part numbers, i will check into the pin sizes. what about the white rom? should i be replacing mine?
thanks
blake
Quoted from Blake:no real changes when shutting on and off twice with the coin door open. but i blew fuse f2 before trying. wont be able to replace until tomorrow.
f2 (solenoids) is common to blow when the cpu board is locking up. The software/cpu runs wild and turns on too many solenoids.
Andrew,
I am going to be attempting to run my WC on a Jungle Lord Sys7 board. It's the early version with the DIPs fitted. I understand that it will work with a special WHITE ROM? Is there a document I can reference for anything special I need to do to make this work?
Thanks for any info!
It is pretty easy to run sys 3-6 software on a sys 7 MPU despite what you might read on the internet. I have seen some write ups for doing so get really complicated when it can be done really easily without needing to change jumpers.
IC17 on the system 7 board is typically jumpered for a 2532 ROM. For Green and earlier flipper ROMs on system 7 you need to combine ROM1 and ROM2 into a single 2532 or 2732 EPROM. That combined flipper ROM goes in IC17. The stock normal 2716 game ROM goes in IC14. Then you are using just two EPROMs instead of three.
So the cmd line prompt for combining the Green, yellow, or white flipper roms would look like this.
copy /B GREEN1-IC20.716+GREEN2-IC17.716 GREENCOMBO-IC17.532
Beware the world cup uses a special white 2 ic 17 rom too.
Quoted from barakandl:It is pretty easy to run sys 3-6 software on a sys 7 MPU despite what you might read on the internet. I have seen some write ups for doing so get really complicated when it can be done really easily without needing to change jumpers.
IC17 on the system 7 board is typically jumpered for a 2532 ROM. For Green and earlier flipper ROMs on system 7 you need to combine ROM1 and ROM2 into a single 2532 or 2732 EPROM. That combined flipper ROM goes in IC17. The stock normal 2716 game ROM goes in IC14. Then you are using just two EPROMs instead of three.
So the cmd line prompt for combining the Green, yellow, or white flipper roms would look like this.
copy /B GREEN1-IC20.716+GREEN2-IC17.716 GREENCOMBO-IC17.532
Beware the world cup uses a special white 2 ic 17 rom too.
you said you have this white rom correct? my wc does not have this.
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