(Topic ID: 35010)

1977 Gottlieb Mustang Clean Up and Preservation

By ne1

11 years ago


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There are 54 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 11 years ago

Having just completed a clean up and preservation of a 1975 Spin Out. It's time to start a new project.

Unlike my previous project, this Mustang is in a lot better starting condition. I hope to have to do very little touchups in comparison. I would also say the backglass is a solid 9/10. There is some small bubbling and a small flake in the upper left window of the Saloon and a small crease in one of the cowboys pants (had to really look to find this).

The front of the cabinet has some heavier scratches but there are very few else where.

There is the typical wear by the kick outs on the playfield. The worst part of the playfield is it is dirty and has deep ball swirls. I hope that a good cleaning brings the playfield back into shape.

The plan is to verify that the game plays generally as it should before disassembly. I have had it powered on and most of the playfield worked so hopefully only a couple hours to get this done. I will clear coat the playfield as I did on the previous project. If I have to level inserts they will be removed, levelled and reinstalled. The backglass will get coated with triple thick with hopefully no touchups. I will touchup the cabinet as required. It's too nice to repaint. And, I will take more pictures!

So far I have ordered the bulk of the parts required to rebuild the pop bumpers and replace the lane guides etc. I've learned from the previous restore that there will always be more parts required

Enough chatter, on with the pictures.

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#2 11 years ago

More

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#3 11 years ago

Wow, the overall condition is pretty good IMHO.

#4 11 years ago

RWH, for sure. I would take this as a starting point any day of the week!

#5 11 years ago

Very nice shape indeed.

I agree that you will have a much easier time with this project cosmetically than your last.

Looks like a fun one to play too.

Time for more excitement, enjoy!

Ken

#6 11 years ago

Great looking game

#7 11 years ago

Wow, you're going to have fun with that one!

#8 11 years ago

So I had some time tonight to do a quick evaluation electronically and mechanically on the machine. So far this is what I have to deal with.

Clean the player unit
Weak left hand flipper
Hum (not too loud but more so than the other 2 games)
Ball doesn't always make it into the shooter lane
Never seems to game over
I thought I saw both score reals score at the same time (pretty sure)
Player 1 score real looks "sticky"

Need to figure out the Bonus 3000 object of the game. There are 2 sets of of 3 lights on each side that lead to a kickout hole. Hitting the drop targets lights up each of the 3 lights but it seams sometimes it is the right hand side sometimes the left. I'm not sure of the rules for this so if someone knows let me know!

Seems like it is a fun game. All in all I don't think too much is wrong so far.

#9 11 years ago

Anyone happen to have a schematic for this machine? I will order one but I want to look through a couple things a soon as I can.

Thanks

#10 11 years ago
Quoted from ne1:

Anyone happen to have a schematic for this machine?

Pinball resource: Yep ---> http://www.pbresource.com/mansch.html

#11 11 years ago

Looks great. I like the "Mustang". I have someone who keeps trying to sell me that game. Have my own problems, if you know what I mean. Can you use enamel on backglass or should you stick with acrylic. Their about the same thing true. I don't know the difference.

#12 11 years ago

Looks good will be nice to see it preserved. Those kickouts like to make wear after all those years . I have a Bronco and have exactly the same wear there. Its really a fun game but really have to shoot the middle drop target on an angle to avoid a drain.

#13 11 years ago

Got the player unit cleaned up as well as the match unit. Incredible how gunked up the player unit was. Someone must have sprayed lubricant or something on it during it's life.

I was able to play a couple one player games from ball 1 through 5 including game over. So far this is working as I would expect. The match unit also works now and I can see how it interacts with the playfield.

Add to my list is clean the credit unit. It's sticky for sure. Good thing about EM's after the first game or two, things just start working again.

Going to continue to work through the list until I am at the point I am satisfied that things more or less work as designed then I will start the clean up.

#14 11 years ago
Quoted from ne1:

Good thing about EM's after the first game or two, things just start working again.

Like Rip Van Winkle a little coaxing gets them moving just be patient and keep a good eye on whats supposed to happen and not happen and it will be up & running 100% in no time.

#15 11 years ago

Got flipper working right. EOS switch was way out of shape. Also got the ball coming out into the shooter lane properly. Worked a bit on the credit unit, its a lot better but I'm going to have to completely remove it to thoroughly clean. Will probably wait at this point until I start cleaning and working on the back box.

Played a couple 2 player games and everything seems to work that I can see. I think at this point I'm happy enough with it mechanically that I will start the teardown. I will go through everything more thoroughly in this process.

Seems to be a fun game.

#16 11 years ago

Congrats on the game and have fun with the project! Post more pictures of the fix-it-up process, if you have the chance.

#17 11 years ago
Quoted from ne1:

I think at this point I'm happy enough with it mechanically that I will start the teardown.

Great job on the repairs!

Now it's time for a clean machine!

Ken

#18 11 years ago

Starting the playfield cleanup. Couple pics of some elbow grease and magic eraser. You can see the white coming back on the top section of numbers in the pics. I plan on re-clearing so I try to go to the point that I'm just about to go through the old clear and then I stop (some spots don't require as much cleaning).

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#19 11 years ago

Looks good NE,
If you are planning to seal/clear after you are done cleaning, I would strip everything off. It's amazing how much grief this will save in the long run. One area I have found troublesome is removing wire forms (inlanes, etc.) I use a small piece of 1/2 inch plywood with a little notch cut near one end. If you put the notch right up to the wire where it enters the field, then work the wire up with a claw hammer (both sides alternately) it will come out with little paint/wood loss.
Keep those updates coming, fun to see others work!

#20 11 years ago

You can also get fresh bumper caps from them. Looks like they stock the exact ones.

#21 11 years ago

I plan on stripping the playfield clean, I did that on the last pinball as well.

I have all new bumper parts, lane guides bought already. Need to get a few extra pieces but I'm waiting to see if something else looks like it should be replaced.

#22 11 years ago

I guess I didn't quite say what I meant-just to strip it now, before cleaning(?)

#23 11 years ago

Trying to take a few more pictures than I did on my last project. Pop bumpers all removed and a magic eraser cleanup. I am going to have to order new leaf switch assemblies for the pop bumpers. For whatever reason, except for one, they basically fell apart. Cleaning the contact on one switch and it fell right off. On the other unit a leaf broke right off with no force. They disintegrated! Better now than when reassembled.

The pop bumpers assemblies and coils were so dirty I am positive they helped make the play field ball marks as bad as they were.

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#24 11 years ago

Using spot putty to fill the deep spots on the playfield. No point in painting when there is wear through into the wood. Once they have been sanded down I will put an off white primer down before any colour matching.

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#25 11 years ago

NE,
This seems obvious, but make sure those bumper 'rod and ring' assembly do not have loose rods where the pressed connection is. Also those rods/shafts need to be clean and smooth. PBR has those in stock for a few bucks. I have had several switch stacks with broken leafs before. I sometimes just add a leaf right into the stack without even having to do any soldering. I see the star rollovers are still in the field as well. They are easy to remove. I have found a quick light tap from the back will do the trick (move switch stack out of way of course). That way your clear coat will go on smooth. If you are concerned about it getting in the slots, just run a small exacto knife thru there afterward. I really haven't found it a problem, but I try to go light coats. Good progress!

#26 11 years ago

Stashyboy,

The rod and ring assemblies look good and tight. Were as the ones on my Spin Out, I had to replace. Funny thing is these ones where so much more dirtier.

#27 11 years ago

It's fun to play detective & try and figure out where/who played the game when it was on location. Was it a bowling alley? Bar? Arcade? other? Clues like yellow smoke grunge on cabinet, goo inside coin box area, wear on field, etc say a lot about the game's history. Of course one of the biggest factors would have been how much routine maintenance the operator might (or might not have) done to it!

#28 11 years ago
Quoted from ne1:

I am going to have to order new leaf switch assemblies for the pop bumpers.

I just build my own from scratch and order the leaf switches and contacts from PBR and it is cheaper that way too. Every time I order a switch assembly I end up having to customize it to work with the specific game anyway so to me it's pointless, but maybe you will have better luck then I have.

Ken

1 week later
#29 11 years ago

Starting on the touch ups

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#30 11 years ago

Looks good, Did you do the whole blue section on the left kickout hole wear? If I have to ask, that means you are good at color matching!

#31 11 years ago

Hi Stashyboy,

Nope, just the wear spot.

#32 11 years ago

When you get the new Mylar Pop Bumper Rings get the non-adhesive as the factory did as it will be much easier down the road if you need to change them. Apply wax under then when you are ready to to the friction from causing any more wear.

Also with the Mylars it will really enhance the the red color under the Pop Bumper and help your touch ups blend in nicely and really make it pop! No pun intended...much.

Ken

1 week later
#33 11 years ago

WHAT KIND OF PAINT DO YOU USE?

#34 11 years ago

I'm using acrylic paints. And will clear coat the playfield once all touch ups are complete.

#35 11 years ago

What kind of putty are you using?

#36 11 years ago

It's Bondo brand glazing putty.

#37 11 years ago

Looks really good ne1

#38 11 years ago

Reminds me of the old Nitro-stan glazing putty (lacquer base)

#39 11 years ago

Touchups done. Levelling of the inserts. Just need another can of Varathane, and some time, and I will be ready to clear the playfield. I need to get a part order into PBR, so it can be shipping while I'm waiting for the clear to dry. Last time I waited 2 weeks after the last coat before final sand. I am planning the same this time.

1 month later
#40 11 years ago

Finally warmed up enough I could get the clear coats done. Now the hard part, waiting the 2 weeks for it to cure before I can sand it out. I'm attaching a close-up to show how the colours seem to pop more after the clear.

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#41 11 years ago

Looks really good...love my Mustang!

#42 11 years ago

Great job so far!

You'll have a great machine when it's done.

Ken

3 weeks later
#43 11 years ago

Clear sanded out and starting to reassemble. Waiting 2-3 weeks to make sure that the clear dries is a killer. Might brave automotive clears one day. Photo not too great, I'll get better ones up soon as the room brightens up

Hopefully updates will come more frequently now.

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#44 11 years ago

Looks really nice.

#45 11 years ago

Started work on the back box. Backglass out finally (was stuck). Very good shape, some small touch-ups will be required. Will carefully wipe off and then triple thick it.

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#46 11 years ago

It's annoying how they put those little pads behind the backglass that were probably intended to protect the backglass from touching the wood backing and they end up deteriorating and sticking to the paintwork...at least they did on mine

Your backglass looks amazing for its age!

#47 10 years ago

Backglass touchup and preservation done. Nice box of parts arrived mid week. Lots to do now!

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#48 10 years ago

Very sweet work indeed. What brand of acrylic paint did you use?

4 weeks later
#49 10 years ago

Got time today to install the new bumpers. I haven't turned on the machine in a couple months and now I have a problem. With the ball out of the machine I can reset the machine and it starts normal. With the ball in the machine in the drain. The machine continuously counts 1000's. Also on reset the 5000 light is always on.Both these are new issues so something must have gotten tweaked while apart. I don't have a schematic so it's hard to track down. Anyone with a Mustang schematic?

#50 10 years ago

I know its just me but I would have put painters tape in the windows that show the score and put the triple thick everywhere else. Anyways that is a nice backglass.

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