C23 big blue capacitor on driver board may be the culprit on the rebooting issue.

The fuse next to the flippers is supposed to be a 1 amp slo-blo.

Have you checked for the proper voltage on your power supply rectifier? If I had a c23 I would replace it. You can get them for about 10 bucks at great plains electronics.

The silver capacitor that is vertical is C23 and probably needs to be replaced in order to stop your resetting issues.

As suggested, C23 is the most likely culprit, but also wiggle J4 on the MPU and see if the machine locks up or reboots. This connector should always be repinned.

dothedoo is right. Only I would say ALL connectors need to be rebuilt. Then start troubleshooting if problems remain. 30 years is plenty long enough to expect them to work. Every game of this vintage I've worked on had numerous problems that magically went away after rebuilding connectors.

Agreed. All of the .100 connectors become brittle and break instead of flexing like they should. J3 and J4 on the MPU are especially prone to failure due to corrosion. Replacing all of the header pins is equally important.

While the filter cap and connector pins are old and probably needs replaced. You can't really just blame them for the resets without some testing.

Test the filter cap by putting your DMM on VAC. Measure across the cap leads. You should see a quarter volt or so or less. If there is more, the cap is not filtering enough ripple.

Next check... 5vdc / 12vdc. Check the 12v on the rectifier board and the 12v on the driver board. They should be within a few tenths of a volt.

Check the 5v on the driver board both test points. These should be identical.

Check the 5v at the MPU board. It should be at least 4.75v and within a few tenths of a volt of the driver board TPs

If the fuse under the PF by the flipper mechs is blowing, a solenoid is probably locking on at some point. When the software crashes, it could be possible that it locks on a coil.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-quick-bally-driver-board-repair-bulletproofing

This is absolutely true, but if the connectors aren't rebuilt properly you can chase intermittent problems for years, repining again and again as each connector pin dies.

It also makes lamps brighter and solenoids snappier and reduces heat at the connection point.

Rebuilding connectors may not affect his problem, but it will definitely help the game's stability.

Measure resistance across the lugs on all of your coils, and don't forget the outhole coil. Flippers should be 3 ohms for the high power winding and 350 or so for the hold winding. All other coils should be at least 10 ohms. That 3A fuse should hold just fine if everything was ok so either there's a shorted coil or shorted driver transistor(s) on the SDB.

Easier just to measure coil resistance since all the coils are daisy chained and you don't necessarily know by disconnecting coils that you are starting at the top and going "down the line".

A shorted transistor will cause a solenoid to lock on which will in a short time blow the fuse, which kills the rest of the coils. You have a split second to shut power off and save the coil/fuse. A shorted coil will blow the fuse immediately.

The flipper and chime coils are only protected by the fuse on the rectifier board, they are separate from the 1A slow blow under the playfield.

Just had the same problem on a Mr. and Mrs. PAC-man I was working on. Rebuild the MPU and the first game I ran was great, then all the coils died and only the flippers were working. After screwing around with testing every fuse and test point trying to see where voltages were, it tested the voltage at the lugs and had current. Turns out the j4 connector on the solenoid driver board was bad (wiggled it while in coil test mode and everything started working). Try checking for cold solder joints and re-pin all the connectors like suggested.

True that. First thing that i do to a bally is fix the connector plugs. the early rectifier boards are always a mess. Single sided lamp, sound, driver boards have cracked joints all over.