(Topic ID: 264626)

1976 Williams Space Mission - First Restoration

By cbartal

4 years ago


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  • 52 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by mrm_4
  • Topic is favorited by 9 Pinsiders

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#5 4 years ago

Looks like a very rewarding project. Mine only needed some touch up on the key lines, insert filling and a complete clear coat. How do you plan to do the painting? Are you airbrushing?

#7 4 years ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

My SM does not have mylar.
I am surprised to see one that did. Do you think it was factory installed?

Mine only had Mylar at the pop bumpers. The Mylar on this one looks like an attempt to slow the wear.

#10 4 years ago
Quoted from cbartal:

That's what I'm hoping to do, but I haven't got an airbrush yet. I like the Iwata Neo from what I've seen, and it's in my budget - which is key right now. There are some really large blocks that need covered the same color, so my thought was to lightly sand, airbrush, and get some waterslide decals for the black lettering spots. I haven't quite figured out how to do the turquoise plaid on the yellow by the kick-out holes. There seems to be a lot of discolored wax on there, so right now I've been wet sanding it with De-Solv-It and 1200 grit sandpaper. It's a little slow, but it's showing promise.

The mylar here was definitely after market (pop bumpers aside)because it was covering up bare wood in many spots.

You don’t need to spend money on the Iwata Neo. A cheap Harbor Freight unit works fine. I did three playfields with the Harbor Freight unit. Have you read the Vids Guide to playfield restorations? It is the ultimate source to learn. Spend some time in each section. It’s not the only way to do it, but it will put you on the right path. Here are a few examples of following his guide.

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#15 4 years ago

Use magic eraser and 91% isopropyl alcohol to get that playfield clean then Novus 2 and more Naptha before you start painting. Keep in mind you can remove some more paint if your not careful, although that may not be an issue at this point. You will need to clear coat after this to lock it down. Do you have spray equipment? What are you using for clear coat?

#19 4 years ago

The alcohol helps the magic eraser to work. It won’t do much without it. Stay away from water based cleaners.

You need a pretty big compressor to run the high volume paint gun. A normal size compressor won’t do it. I use SprayMax and have been very happy with the results. You will need multiple cans to do the job. You will also need can of two part auto clear to fill the cupped inserts. Earlier you mentioned cost is a consideration. A project of this size can get expensive pretty fast especially if you are starting from ground zero.

If you use SprayMax or 2 part auto clear you will need to buy goggles, gloves, a 3M mask and a tyvek suit. PPE is very important. This stuff is nasty.

#25 4 years ago
Quoted from mof:

I'm not an expert on these matters, (others are) but my understanding is that naptha won't strip the clear (if there is any left) and alcohol most definitely will.
So use that idea as you go.
If I am going to be touching up and clearing the PF, perhaps I don't care about diminishing the clear coat. If I am just cleaning things up to play, perhaps I am thinking more about saving art and clear, and stick with naptha.
My first few years in pinball, I used alcohol to clean everything, and I made some mistakes doing so for sure. I can see streaked clear on some cabinets at certain angles, and some playfield areas. Big oops. Live and learn.
-mof

He said he planned to clear the playfield and is leaning towards Spraymax

2 months later
#31 3 years ago

Do you have an update?

1 year later
#49 2 years ago
Quoted from Jelly429:

cbartal, I have been at a standstill as I took on a a deck replacement project.
Other than the occasional continuation of gradual lacquer removal. I also have a lot of dimpled up wood at the areas where the hardware post screws go in. I have been using a wood block and clamp to try to get those areas flat before trying to do any sanding or repair. Did you have any of this and have a recommendation how to get these areas flat-ish?

I use the round end of a ball peen hammer several times over the course of a few days or when I think about it. After that I sand it flat and paint to match.

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