It could be the make/break sw. on A. E is the Bonus Score relay.

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AS is usually for match and I don't see one in this machine.

I don't have a schematic, but from another thread it looks like they use an AS type stepper to control the bonus arrow lights and awards.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/royal-flush-bonus-arrows-not-lighting

Right you are. If it is AS-like, it's small and a PITA. Basically check for cleanliness on the little board and tight sw.

Check the M/B on KX as well (Double Bonus)

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after ball drain you must hit switch that ball would normally trigger going back to shooter lane

The E relay and the score motor cause the bonus count down. The O relay makes sure that the bonus is reset and ejects the ball. Seems like the O relay is firing before the bonus is done. There’s a make-break switch on the AX relay that’s involved in choosing between E and O. I’d check that. Is also figure out how to get it the happen with the playfield up because you need to see the I, E, O, and score motor sequence when this goes wrong.

How are you simulating the ball drain? You need to hold down the outhole switch until the eject fires. That lets the score motor run and complete the sequence before ejecting the ball to the shooter lane.

Good luck,
Dave

Isn't that the A relay that I pointed out in post 2?

Yes, you’re right, sorry for the confusion with AX.

What's the Ball Return Control (A) doing when this happens?

Yep.

Here's my read of how the bonus is awarded at end of each ball. Comments?

1. During play, any bonus earned trips 4B, 5B, 6B and/or 7B
2. Any of these 4 Sequence bank relays energizes A relay
3. Ball drains closing Ball Return switch at schematic 20.5G
4. If A relay is energized, the Ball Return switch activates E relay
5. E relay starts the motor running
6. I relay gets one pulse per 1/3 revolution motor cycle through a switch on motor 4C and E relay
7. L relay gets various bonus pulses through the logic at schematic 6.5F depending on earned bonus
8. After 4 motor cycles, I relay finds its way back to position 4, which trips the 8B relay
9. 8B relay breaks circuit to A relay
10. A relay changes from activating E relay to activating O relay
11. O relay activates Ball Return solenoid
12. Ball Return solenoid kicks ball across Trough switch
13. Trough switch activates P relay
14. P relay activates Sequence (and Drop Target) bank reset solenoids etc.
15. Ball is now ready for player to launch it with the plunger

Legend:
A Ball Return Control relay
E Bonus Score relay
I Bonus Unit mini stepper
L 1000 Point relay
O Ball Return relay
P Add Player Unit relay
4B 2 Jacks relay (on sequence bank)
5B 2 Kings relay (on sequence bank)
6B 3 Queens relay (on sequence bank)
7B Royal Flush relay (on sequence bank)
8B 4th Position Bonus Unit relay (on sequence bank)

Are steps 6 and 8 working correctly?
6. I relay gets one pulse per 1/3 revolution motor cycle through a switch on motor 4C and E relay
...
8. After 4 motor cycles, I relay finds its way back to position 4, ...

This sounds right to me. After watching the video I think this is the part that's not working:

As HowardR points out the I relay needs to pause for a complete score motor cycle (1/3 turn) to allow all the possible points (up to 5000) to score at each stop. Instead in this case the I relay steps multiple times per score motor cycle and at the cadence where the points should be scoring. That tells me that the I relay isn't firing once per cycle on the score motor 4C switch as it should but is instead firing on a 1A or 4A position switch which closes 5 times per cycle. That would be possible with just one switch being in the wrong position:
Royal Flush I relay (resized).jpg
If the I relay zero position switch were closed at any other position it would allow pulses from the Score Motor 1A switch to advance the I relay prematurely. We know that the O relay should be active and that the O switch above should be closed.

You could test that theory by clipping your meter (with the power off) to the blue-white-red and green-black wires and measuring the resistance between them. When the I relay is in the zero position the resistance should be an ohm or less. In any other position the resistance should be much higher.

/Mark

Hmm. HowardR pointed out offline that the O relay shouldn't be active while the bonus is counting so the theory in reply #25 would require that either the O relay switch in the schematic is stuck closed, or the O relay is firing prematurely in addition to the I Zero Position switch being wonky.

Probably. Check the wire colors.

As MarkG said in his most recent above post, the I relay zero position switch would need another malfunction to be the problem.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/1976-royal-flush-bonus-issue-as-relay#post-5378766

The way to fix this is to slowly and carefully work through the bonus sequence I listed above to find the first step in my list that doesn't work as it should.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/1976-royal-flush-bonus-issue-as-relay#post-5378558

If you can report back the first step number that doesn't work the way I said it should then I can help you.

Ok, my bad. I misinterpreted the schematic and picked the wrong switch. Let me try again:
Royal Flush I relay 2 (resized).jpg
The I relay Zero Position switch is only open when the I relay is in the Zero Position. In other words, it's open whenever the game isn't counting up a bonus. When the bonus count starts, the game adds points for the first score motor cycle (with the arrow in the first position) then the I relay takes a step to position 1 and the Zero Position switch closes and remains closed until the bonus count is over. Once the Zero Position switch is closed the I relay could be getting extra pulses from the score motor 1A switch if the O/Ball Return relay switch were stuck closed, or closed too soon. That could explain why your bonus count starts off correctly and goes wonky after the arrow moves to the 2nd position.

So my apologies to the Zero Position switch. It's the O relay switch in the same circuit that should be inspected carefully.

Hi TeaHaus +
may I read from Your post-1 "The bonus-feature did function - but then all of a sudden the fault showed up - I, TeaHaus show it in the video" ?

I do have problems fully understanding the feature (looking at the schematics having in mind the relays and the switches changing - changing ...) but HowardR 's sequence of operation in his post-22 is plausible - most likely true --- I would focus on the one and only threebladed M&B-Switch on A-Relay --- TeaHaus, toggle-off the pin, unplug the main power cord (Safety Reasons) - look at the switch - A-Relay non pulling is "middle-blade has connection ONLY to outside-blade-having-soldered-on-wire-WH-OR" - then manually press the armature on A-Relay (You simulate A-Relay pulling) is "middle-blade has connection ONLY to the other outside-blade-having-soldered-on-wire-GR-mingled-with-WH --- the working hypothesis is: "A-Relay-pulling - middle-blade has connection to BOTH outside-blades which is faulty". Do not only look at the contact-points on the long blades - also look on the short studs where wires are soldered-on - a short piece of crap wire fallen there, a drop of solder, one of the studs heavy bent --- making faulty contact ? (((Faulty the O-Relay also activates when only the E-Relay shall activate)))

I found some JPGs - maybe of general interest (?). Greetings Rolf

0Royal-Flush-Manual_07 (resized).jpg

0Gottlieb-1978-Catalog-P-page-58 (resized).jpg

0Gottlieb-1978-Catalog-P-page-59 (resized).jpg