(Topic ID: 33445)

1976 Gottlieb Surfer worth fixing?

By brad_c6

11 years ago


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  • 19 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 years ago by Chrisbee
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#1 11 years ago

Hi,
I have no past experience with pinball maintenance/repair/restoration and was given a really beat up 1976 Gottlieb Surfer. I found it in a old barn the guy said that if I could get it out it's mine. So after working back to get it transported back to my shop I found how bad of shape it really was. The playfeild paint is peeling/flaking off and probably needs to be completely repainted. Is it worth fixing/saving?

I created a torrent with the papers I found
https://www.dropbox.com/s/b6m300phcm97z4o/GottliebSurferPapers.torrent?dl=0 I

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#2 11 years ago

I picked up one of those last month and it's a really fun game, definitely worth restoring.

#3 11 years ago

Hell yeah!

#4 11 years ago

The paint is really shot (at least I think) If you move a cloth over it the paint flakes right off.Do you have a potential solution?

#5 11 years ago

Look here for info on fixing the mechanical stuff:
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index.htm

Look here for tips on restoring:
Www.pinrepair.com and scroll down to see restoration info.

That site has a wealth of info. It's a lot to digest, but it will save you a lot of aggravation!

#6 11 years ago

I am thinking about sending the playfield to a professional and have them do all the paint and I'll do all the EM my self (Got a compsci degree myself and a Electrical Engineering buddy). Is there a resource that is well trusted in the community for doing that. (I live in Eastern Washington State and hopefully get someone along the west coast)

Thank You all for being so prompt and helpful

#7 11 years ago

Great Game! Definitely worth saving.

It will be a lot of work but it will be a fun process for you to learn.

Ken

#9 11 years ago

Ditto what way2wyrd says:

Save it Save it Save it Save it !!!

I see no reason at all why this pin can't be restored to playable condition. There's plenty of people willing to help you every step of the way here at Pinside. If you don't mind me asking, how would you judge yourself as a do-it-yourself'er, generally speaking? If you can disassemble things, clean them and reassemble things the same way they came apart then the game is on!

The more time you spend restoring this, the more rewarding it will be in so many ways. I guess I spent maybe 150 hours on my Gottlieb Spirit of 76 and probably +200 hours on my Williams Space Mission. That's gobs of time but both my machines are absolutely beautiful, a joy to play and 100% reliable.

If I had a machine like your Surfer I'd be really excited about it! :-O

-1
#10 11 years ago

I think I am a pretty good do-it-yourself'er, some of the projects I have done include

*~40 Odd complete laptop tear downs (Replace LCD, Motherboards, Repaste Processors), with no "missing" or "extra" screws
*JTag all sorts of different microchips
*Solder new electrical components (Normally capacitors) on TVs, Computers, Consoles, pretty much everything with a pcb.
*Reflow/Reball RRoD Xbox 360s
*Build walking robots from scratch (No kits or premade software)

I am worried that I hail from the digital side of things so much that moving over is a whole different sport altogether; also I am worried about causing damage to the board cosmetically (more paint flaking). Basically I am confident I can get it functioning as it originally did, but I can't paint or retouch the artwork

#11 11 years ago

popular game - who knows you might really enjoy the effort

#12 11 years ago

Surfer is a game that will really benefit from a PF teardown and clearcoat. It's one of Gottlieb's fastest EM games and takes on a new life when it's shopped and tweaked.

#13 11 years ago

Well I clean the playfeild as best as I can with 99% and a magic pad.
Dropbox
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/3514611/IMG_0175.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/3514611/IMG_0176.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/3514611/IMG_0177.JPG

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#14 11 years ago

Here's my $.02

Clean it up (playfield looks a lot better after your cleanup already)

Get some novus2 and use it on the playfield and plastics.

Get new rubbers and ball

Get it working (shouldn't be too difficult, plenty of resources and help here if you need it)

And PLAY IT!

Worry about restoring the playfield later.

Think of it as a "road worn" vintage strat...

#15 11 years ago

That's a great start already.

#16 11 years ago
Quoted from Prmailers:

Here's my $.02
Clean it up (playfield looks a lot better after your cleanup already)
Get some novus2 and use it on the playfield and plastics.
Get new rubbers and ball
Get it working (shouldn't be too difficult, plenty of resources and help here if you need it)
And PLAY IT!
Worry about restoring the playfield later.
Think of it as a "road worn" vintage strat...

I agree. Get it working and play it. Keep an eye on ebay for a NOS playfield. It actually looks pretty good after you cleaned it. And I've had a lot of fun playing machines that looked a lot worse.

#17 11 years ago

I agree with the general consensus on here, definitely save it, but just make it a players game first. One thing you have going for you mechanically is that the interior shot of the cab looks really clean. It doesn't look like a lot of hacked wiring, burnt coils, loose pieces, dirty mess, etc. I'd take a little TLC cleaning issues over an under p/f mess any day.

#18 11 years ago
Quoted from Prmailers:

Here's my $.02
Clean it up (playfield looks a lot better after your cleanup already)
Get some novus2 and use it on the playfield and plastics.
Get new rubbers and ball
Get it working (shouldn't be too difficult, plenty of resources and help here if you need it)
And PLAY IT!
Worry about restoring the playfield later.
Think of it as a "road worn" vintage strat...

+ .02
Make it 4 cents now
Play it now to workout any bugs then down the road either look for another playfield or repaint the current one.
The only plus is if you were to scratch anything working on it in this state no biggie (except the BG)just get an idea how things are assembled without the worries.
Do not wax it to prevent paint refinishing issues.
Keep all silicone products away from any paint too.

#19 11 years ago

Here is another opinion, based on my personal preference based on having a great looking and working pin. Not necessarily having a beautiful factory finish but a fun game to be truly proud of. This would be my plan of action.

1. Find out what's working and what's not working.
2. Resolve those electrical problems. Consult the skilled people at Pinside for help if necessary.
3. Once everything is working properly and reliably (which will necessarily mean a few games played on a bad playfield) consider the machine is really a number of sub-sections. These are:

a. Cabinet
b. Lightbox insert (Wood electronic board in the head)
c. Playfield
d. Relay board (In bottom of the cabinet)
e. Cabinet wiring and devices such as chimes, flipper switches, tilt bob, front door

Those are the 5 major subsections of a pin. Each of these sections can be further broken down within themselves but those are the 5 sections.
4. I would tackle each of those sections individually and not move onto another until the last one gets done. Me? I like to start with the playfield because that gets the most eye time.

Playfield:
I'd remove every post, every screw, every guide, flippers, bumpers etc which are fastened onto the playfield side. Then I'd identify which parts protrude up from the underside such as slingshot pushers, lamp bases, switches etc and make them no longer protrude. That means unscrew switches on the underside, push them through, disassemble kickers and tie the (now) loose dangling solenoid underneath so it doesn't damage.
I'd make the playfield top so bare you could slide a stick from top to bottom and not hit anything. Just wood and paint. If there's empty exposed light sockets I'd stuff balled up corner of a paper towel in each to protect the lamp contacts.

I'd use 98% alcohol with a Magic Eraser and go to work cleaning as much as possible, followed up with Napthia. It should look a lot better at this point, except for holes in the paint.

Then I'd take it outside, preferably on a cloudy day and take TONS of photographs of the playfield. I'd isolate colored areas in my view finder which appear closest to original (not dirty or faded) and snap photos of that particular color. For the Surfer it looks like only 3 colors... Red, Blue and Yellow not including Black and White.
I'd view the photographed colors in my camera's screen and compare it to the original and make sure the two match. (Some screens are off color)
Then I'd take my camera to the art store and buy acrylic paints according to the colors presented in my camera screen. I'd get the Liquitex band, heavy body along with the tiniest brush I could find, and one a bit bigger.

I found that playfield touch-up is really a boogy-man. It can be scary and intimidating at first, but I guarantee you'll get into it moments after you begin. I had a mindset that I was going to ruin and destroy my playfields, expecting to do so which made everything I did look fabulous.
Perfection is NOT necessary. Just fill in the original paint cracks and chips. The original paint will have a sheen to it while the acrylics will not. That's OK. Fill the missing colors, do the black highlight trim etc. I used a good magnifying glass for some tight areas.

If you need to repaint text then do that last, after you've gained experience using the paints and brush. Acrylics are a **dream** to work with because they're water soluble and you'll need a damp rag nearby for mistakes.
You can spend a few days doing the touch-up or a few weeks. The time spent in this is proportionate to the outcome. I also found there is no "done" when it comes to playfield touch-up. There comes a point in time when you have to stop and say "good enough" and stop.

Please know that I am not an artist by any means. Other than my two pins, I don't recall the last time I ever brush-painted. But I am far and away more satisfied redoing my own playfields, knowing I did it myself rather than staring into a dilapidated mess, or paying someone else.

The inserts are probably going to be dished and sunken. I fill those in with Miniwax Polycrylic, dripped in on the end of a brush, and slowly worked to the edges. Usually a 2nd application is necessary.

Once that point is reached I let the paint dry very well, then a quick final wipe with Napthia and spray about 1.5 cans of Varathane Crystal Clear water-based paint to seal it all.

I let it sit until the Varathane smell disappears and wallah! While it's not perfect, it's incomparably far superior to before and will stay that way in the far future. A job very well done.

Your Surfer playfield looks to me as very fixable. You know how to disassemble and reassemble things so why not? Here's a couple before-after pics of my SO76 playfield. Remember I had not done this before and questioned my ability:

DSCN0598.jpgDSCN0598.jpg IMG_3580.JPGIMG_3580.JPG

My complete SO76 restoral thread is here with step by step progress reports: http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/first-em-pin-in-30-years

#20 11 years ago

Oh, and I found The Pinball Resource to be a great place for new and used parts. Steve Young is particularly great to work with. Highly recommended.

http://www.pbresource.com/

#21 11 years ago

Here is a video on what I have got (EM Wise) working.

The only em things I can't get is the ball return (hit the ball back to start), player 1 scores never reset and it seems to "false start" frequently; I think it believes the ball is instantly out of play and something connects just well enough to work sometimes.

Thank You everyone for the AWESOME support

#22 11 years ago

Hey, should save any EM that can be saved! They have this particular machine at the Silverball Museum, and it's one of the few Gottlieb's that I can't consistently beat! You can't get a clean shot at the target to the far right, because the post for the spinner gets in the way. Makes it really tough to rack up the bonus score.

#23 11 years ago

thanks for posting Brad and all the responses as has revved me up to pull my Surf Champ out of Storage to do the same thing.

Keep up the great work

#24 11 years ago

Brad did your game come with a schematic?

#25 11 years ago

I went back and found all the original paperwork schematics, order forms, a ton of card slips. Is there a database that I should upload them to?

#26 11 years ago

If you're willing to scan the schematics and make it available to the people here we will be able to better help you.
The scans can be sent via email or uploaded to a file sharing service like RapidShare.

#27 11 years ago

here is a schematic for a surf champ (4 player version of Surfer)

#28 11 years ago
Quoted from SteveFury:

Here is another opinion, based on my personal preference based on having a great looking and working pin. Not necessarily having a beautiful factory finish but a fun game to be truly proud of. This would be my plan of action.

That game come looking good, u should be proud, well done.

-1
#29 11 years ago

A little acrylic touch up, cleaning, and maybe clear coat, and it will be a wonderful game... looks very good already.

#30 11 years ago
Quoted from keith20mm:

A little acrylic touch up, cleaning, and maybe clear coat, and it will be a wonderful game... looks very good already.

this is the biggest plague and false information within in the pinball community...

all playfields that were silkscreened were done in oil/solvent based inks. by using a water based paint (most people recommend the use of the crappiest acrylics) you never get a proper bond to the ink below. clearcoating doesn't solve the problem either, as most clearcoats are incredibly adhesive and only aid in the lifting process. look up acrylic over oil based paints if you don't understand or believe me. I've been in the paint and printmaking industry for too long and remained too quiet over this issue. i appreciate the willingness for the community to help each other but am tired of repairing bad advice and poor practice.

if you are seriously interested in doing restoration to the playfield, message me and i can give a complete breakdown. just please, please, please don't put acrylic over anything on your playfield!

#31 11 years ago

My advise is go ahead and fix it the way you want.

BTW I had great results with high quality acrylics and clear.

#32 11 years ago
Quoted from ne1:

My advise is go ahead and fix it the way you want.
BTW I had great results with high quality acrylics and clear.

i agree with "ne1" that you (the owner) the have every right to fix, repair, or restore your machine to any condition you want. I was just trying to give advice from more than an opinionated aesthetics sense. "high quality acrylics" by the way are only found by one manufacturer these days...Golden is the only producer of archival professional grade acrylics. they have a wonderful set of resources for those interested in mixing colors, color theory, calculations for those of you that prefer to airbrush, and more resources than any pinhead could utilize.

i admit my perspective is skewed...i became aware of pinball restoration after being a master printer and making a living as an artist. i volunteered my skill-set every weekend for over six months at a venue dedicated to providing pinball to the public (30+ pins in arcade and 80+ pins on route). it's amazing what kind of wear appears when professional players (not asshole abusers) are flipping away for hours on end. if aesthetics is all that is wanted, photoshop tutorials should be the standard along with how to dispose of destroyed pins.

i restore pins to play...i apologize if i'm in the wrong forum...i'm new here.

#33 11 years ago
Quoted from brad_c6:

Here is a video on what I have got (EM Wise) working

Looks to me like this is very close to working properly. These are the things I noticed in your video:

*Playfield switches need cleaning, causing them to be intermittent
*Drop target unit needs servicing. (Disassembly, cleaning, reassembly)
*Missing pinball

The missing pinball is important, there's likely a switch it rolls over on the path to the shooting lane. If your pinball is really missing there may be one in the critical tilt trough near the tilt plumb-bob you could use for testing.

If it were mine I'd get a flex stone from PinballResource and lightly go over the switch contacts. All of them including relays etc and learn how to properly adjust a relay. I'd bet that will fix almost, if not all of the problems.

I don't see any problem what so ever with using Varathane over Acrylics on an old junk otherwise crappy and uselessly trashed playboard. They turn out absolutely beautiful proportionate to the time spent on them. It may not be technically correct, but the combination has worked very well for a lot of people for a long time.

#34 11 years ago
Quoted from SteveFury:

The missing pinball is important, there's likely a switch it rolls over on the path to the shooting lane. If your pinball is really missing there may be one in the critical tilt trough near the tilt plumb-bob you could use for testing.

I don't see any problem what so ever with using Varathane over Acrylics on an old junk otherwise crappy and uselessly trashed playboard. They turn out absolutely beautiful proportionate to the time spent on them. It may not be technically correct, but the combination has worked very well for a lot of people for a long time.

the bearing in the tilt assembly is smaller than a normal pinball...it's best to use another pinball as the adjusting of switches would be incorrect if the smaller tilt ball were used as reference.

also, the problem is you don't see a problem with acrylics and varathane. i've clearly mentioned a few problems and the fact you ignore them or bother to do minor research is beyond comprehension. i've never been one for excess waste of time or resources, clearly that's a minority mindset. please quit spreading invalid information based upon opinion.

#35 11 years ago
Quoted from kchroma:

this is the biggest plague and false information within in the pinball community...
all playfields that were silkscreened were done in oil/solvent based inks. by using a water based paint (most people recommend the use of the crappiest acrylics) you never get a proper bond to the ink below. clearcoating doesn't solve the problem either, as most clearcoats are incredibly adhesive and only aid in the lifting process. look up acrylic over oil based paints if you don't understand or believe me. I've been in the paint and printmaking industry for too long and remained too quiet over this issue. i appreciate the willingness for the community to help each other but am tired of repairing bad advice and poor practice.

I hope to see the alternative method posted, but here is my 0.02:

1. You rarely, if ever paint acrylic over the top of an "oil" based ink. The factory silk screened the ink on - not sure of it's composition - then screened a layer of LACQUER over the top of the ink. So, your composition is wood, ink (likely two colors), lacquer. In order to put acrylic directly over the ink, you would need to be sanding exactly where the lacquer stops and the ink starts.

2. Almost anything is fine over lacquer (either nitro or acrylic). Lacquer has the hottest solvent. You can google this if you like, but that is a pretty universal truth in the auto and wood. refinishing trade.

3. Once you have the acrylics down, you can top coat it with auto clear or a water based top coat. With zero issues. You can even carefully spray lacquer on it if you go slow and thin.

The only issue I ever had was with a water based top coat reacting with and washing out some red ink on a machine once. I called the manufacturer and we discussed it for a bit. His take was that the ink was water based and this caused the issue.

Durability and longevity of all these methods are of course as questionable as the longevity of laser eye surgery. Will they last 30 years? I don't know. I DO know that I have been at this for 5 or more years and most my PFs look about as good as the day I did them.

Christopher Hutchins has been using a process like this for over 10 years and to my knowledge, I have heard no complaints.

I do wonder a bit about the cheapie acrylics. I like to use Liquitex, but I believe Golden is considered a bit better. Liquitex actually invented the acrylic paint.

Anyway, as I mentioned, I am always open to a "better way", but I don't see a lot of issues with the current way:

https://plus.google.com/photos/118003252068396696045/albums/5639759235180684705

https://plus.google.com/photos/118003252068396696045/albums/5575848510877539617

https://plus.google.com/photos/118003252068396696045/albums/5566345902205787201

https://plus.google.com/photos/118003252068396696045/albums/5675423082838631793

https://plus.google.com/photos/118003252068396696045/albums/5339560841686274513

https://plus.google.com/photos/118003252068396696045/albums/5577106063034850945

https://plus.google.com/photos/118003252068396696045/albums/5348125781821314289

https://plus.google.com/photos/118003252068396696045/albums/5339584811833327121

Lots of good restoration stuff in those albums beyond the PF.

#36 11 years ago
Quoted from kchroma:

the bearing in the tilt assembly is smaller than a normal pinball...it's best to use another pinball as the adjusting of switches would be incorrect if the smaller tilt ball were used as reference.

Regarding the pinball, it really is brand and era dependent. For this game it does indeed use a 1 1/16" ball in the tilt mech, same as the PF. Other brands and eras use smaller balls.

I often break up the start sequence by pulling the PF and getting a complete reset. You will need to index one or more of the score reels to get this to happen. Then, once that is all set, I add the PF, sans most the top pieces (rubber, etc.) then when that is fine, I add the rubber and finish the job.

#37 11 years ago
Quoted from newmantjn:

I hope to see the alternative method posted, but here is my 0.02:
1. You rarely, if ever paint acrylic over the top of an "oil" based ink. The factory silk screened the ink on - not sure of it's composition - then screened a layer of LACQUER over the top of the ink. So, your composition is wood, ink (likely two colors), lacquer. In order to put acrylic directly over the ink, you would need to be sanding exactly where the lacquer stops and the ink starts.
2. Almost anything is fine over lacquer (either nitro or acrylic). Lacquer has the hottest solvent. You can google this if you like, but that is a pretty universal truth in the auto and wood. refinishing trade.
3. Once you have the acrylics down, you can top coat it with auto clear or a water based top coat. With zero issues. You can even carefully spray lacquer on it if you go slow and thin.
The only issue I ever had was with a water based top coat reacting with and washing out some red ink on a machine once. I called the manufacturer and we discussed it for a bit. His take was that the ink was water based and this caused the issue.
Durability and longevity of all these methods are of course as questionable as the longevity of laser eye surgery. Will they last 30 years? I don't know. I DO know that I have been at this for 5 or more years and most my PFs look about as good as the day I did them.
Christopher Hutchins has been using a process like this for over 10 years and to my knowledge, I have heard no complaints.
I do wonder a bit about the cheapie acrylics. I like to use Liquitex, but I believe Golden is considered a bit better. Liquitex actually invented the acrylic paint.
Anyway, as I mentioned, I am always open to a "better way", but I don't see a lot of issues with the current way:
https://plus.google.com/photos/118003252068396696045/albums/5639759235180684705
https://plus.google.com/photos/118003252068396696045/albums/5575848510877539617
https://plus.google.com/photos/118003252068396696045/albums/5566345902205787201
https://plus.google.com/photos/118003252068396696045/albums/5675423082838631793
https://plus.google.com/photos/118003252068396696045/albums/5339560841686274513
https://plus.google.com/photos/118003252068396696045/albums/5577106063034850945
https://plus.google.com/photos/118003252068396696045/albums/5348125781821314289
https://plus.google.com/photos/118003252068396696045/albums/5339584811833327121
Lots of good restoration stuff in those albums beyond the PF.

here's the real problem...everyone is looking at this issue from a personal and egocentric perspective.

if you want to keep collecting pinball machines, if you want manufactures to continue making pinball machines, you have to have them in the public eye. pinball has seen a recent resurgence due to public venues opening and providing a location to learn and experience them. the methods you described above are based upon home use games. I sought out and played a few different "Christopher Hutchins" pins when my curiosity of current restoration started. the owners were even kind enough to let me check out the details glass removed. Chris and High End Pins gets my utmost respect. he's found a market niche and i respect that. all this being said, i've seen his work lift and leave what looks like white lines around certain areas (it's lifted touchups). one game was really unimpressive but it wasn't played in a home, it was played by the top 100 ranked pinball players.

truth is, i just can't support something that excludes others due to negligence. if a pin can't be played extensively by the public, (pins were created for this purpose) then all you have is a pretty collectable suitable for a turntable.

#38 11 years ago

Well, I truly would like to see other techniques, as I am always looking to improve. Regarding routing games etc., Most, if not all the pins I work on will never be out in the wild again. These are 30 - 40 year old games, and they are set up to drop a quarter for two games. It isn't all that economically feasible to route them. Sometimes the operator removed all the mechs and wiring for coin drop. Yes, it could all be replaced, but it isn't going to happen. Also, there are plenty of games that can be cleaned up and routed if somebody wants to do that. The Surfer in question is really not one of those games. It really is a rat. BUT it could be a beauty if the PF was restored. It could have 20 years in somebody's basement and what is wrong with that.

Not sure exactly where you are coming from, but I get the feeling from looking at your posts that your experience is more with DMDs, possibly in an arcade or something. Your point seems better aligned with that experience. The ball speed etc., on the DMD games is quite a bit higher than the EMs, and DMDs can be successfully routed.

I do bring my pins to shows and unlike a lot of people, I try to bring my best stuff. It gets whoopped on in tournaments etc. The Volley, Hit the Deck and Roto Pool all received a best in show award (Volley for both best EM and best overall). This isn't like an arcade to be sure, but it is pretty heavy use for 4 days.

#39 11 years ago
Quoted from newmantjn:

Well, I truly would like to see other techniques, as I am always looking to improve. Regarding routing games etc., Most, if not all the pins I work on will never be out in the wild again. These are 30 - 40 year old games, and they are set up to drop a quarter for two games. It isn't all that economically feasible to route them. Sometimes the operator removed all the mechs and wiring for coin drop. Yes, it could all be replaced, but it isn't going to happen. Also, there are plenty of games that can be cleaned up and routed if somebody wants to do that. The Surfer in question is really not one of those games. It really is a rat. BUT it could be a beauty if the PF was restored. It could have 20 years in somebody's basement and what is wrong with that.
Not sure exactly where you are coming from, but I get the feeling from looking at your posts that your experience is more with DMDs, possibly in an arcade or something. Your point seems better aligned with that experience. The ball speed etc., on the DMD games is quite a bit higher than the EMs, and DMDs can be successfully routed.
I do bring my pins to shows and unlike a lot of people, I try to bring my best stuff. It gets whoopped on in tournaments etc. The Volley, Hit the Deck and Roto Pool all received a best in show award (Volley for both best EM and best overall). This isn't like an arcade to be sure, but it is pretty heavy use for 4 days.

funny enough most my experience is in the timeframe between your expectations...i've helped keep many of wedgeheads on route and offer support to as many operators that can do so. a good friend has a hit the deck he was going to put out for public use just so people could experience it. these are the same people that got me into pinball...the ones that shared. a local who owns a krull machine is adamant about everyone experiencing it and has brought it to many public events and shows. i love this mindset!

i'm working on some write-ups for some of these processes i support and use. unfortunately some are only achievable with high levels of practice and particular skillsets.

yes, dmd's do tend to receive the highest level of impact wear...also the most played type of game as you previously mentioned. successful routes is completely operator dependent. I know strict EM operators who are more successful than dmd operators, and of course the opposite exists.

#40 11 years ago
Quoted from brad_c6:

Is it worth fixing/saving?

Any updates?

#41 11 years ago

Yes, I ended up sending the playfield in.(I tried but quickly realized it was not in my abilities).
I scanned all the documents and posted them to my server @ http://codeprogrammers.net/files/1976GotliebbSurfer/

I am working to photostitch the schematic together but I can't get the last piece together (They are also on the server. Sorry for not responding for so long, I have been working on my game programming project @ https://github.com/bradc6/StrataExtract

#42 11 years ago

Really awesome find! These old EM's are some of the coolest pins to own, especially your Surfer pin. Really fun game and pretty popular too! It sounds like you are on the fast track to bringing this game back to life! Great work so far, keep us updated with videos/pictures! I remember an old local surf shop close by had a Surf Champ, the 4 player version of your game, and it never worked. It was always just covered in dust and boxes. When my brother would be buying surf wax or anything else, I'd just be taking boxes off of the game and staring at it hahah. Really good find once again, once this guy is going strong, you will feel pretty dang proud of all of the time/work you put into it! Keep it up!

#43 11 years ago
Quoted from newmantjn:

The only issue I ever had was with a water based top coat reacting with and washing out some red ink on a machine once. I called the manufacturer and we discussed it for a bit. His take was that the ink was water based and this caused the issue.

A friend of mine ran into this same problem clear coating a Jack in the Box playfield - the reds changed color. Any recommendations on how to deal with this?

#44 11 years ago

The guy recieved the playfield and said it is too far damaged. The pictures hide the damage I think, as really the whole thing needs to be repainted top to bottom. So I am looking for a Surfer playfield to replace it with a NOS playfield (if the stars align just right) or the best available one I can find. I figure that if I really get collecting machines my first one ought to look good. Thank you everyone for all the feedback!

#45 11 years ago

Why not attempt it yourself. From the perspective of someone doing this for money. I agree it's too much work.

If you are learning, why not learn on this. If you ruin it, well you're in the same boat you're in now. If it turns out ok, or better than you might think. Then you win.

#46 11 years ago

Agreed with ne1. Finding a good playfield laying around sounds like a slim probability. If there is a good pf out there then it would most likely be in a working game.

I've never tried to do playfield touch up until this week. I got an EM Cleopatra last year and the playfield needs work, similar to what you have going on.

Yours isn't the worst I've seen and it is worth trying to save.

I picked up a few different shades of each color of the playfield as well as a light tan and white, off-white and black for mixing and matching. Takes a little time and patience to match colors, they just need to be close, as a perfect match is very tough to get.

After doing some work on the playfield last night I had my wife in front of the machine and asked if she saw anything that didn't look right. She had no idea any paint touch up was done and she did not realize it until I pointed it out. That was a sense of accomplishment, as many things are with EM pin repair.

Give it a shot. You already have some money into this game. You have nothing to lose.

#47 11 years ago

That Playfield can be touched up and saved. If you do not or cannot do it you may want to contact Capt.Neo on Pinside and see if it is something he can restore for you. He does great work with Playfields and is a guy you can trust to do it right for you.

Quoted from Garrett:

Agreed with ne1. Finding a good playfield laying around sounds like a slim probability.

I agree as well.

Ken

#48 11 years ago

Interesting he is after one as well....
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wtb-used-or-nos-surf-champ-playfield

I need one as well, maybe John Greatwich can do direct ink ones, probably get a few sales.....
http://greatpinball.com/services.html

#49 11 years ago
Quoted from brad_c6:

Is it worth fixing/saving?

Check this restoration, may give you some inspiration.

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-playboy-restoration

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