(Topic ID: 337627)

1975 Recel S.A. 'Criterium 80' - Restoration

By lint

10 months ago


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#1 10 months ago

I have had this one for a while and finally decided to get her up and running. I have never played one so I am interested in seeing how the rules go. I have the legs soaking in evapo-rust right now (can anyone confirm the leg size on these?). Once I have it on it's legs I will dig into the bottom board, then the backbox and finally the playfield. I notice a problem straight away. The plastic coating that I have read these use is all shrunk and bubbling. I am trying to figure out a way to remove it without effecting the beautiful artwork. Any tips? It is not mylar.

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#2 10 months ago

would say the legs will be 31" - looking at the cab, it's like a circa 1975 gottlieb in size

#3 10 months ago

The leg bolts are metric.

#4 10 months ago

IPDB needs photos of this game

#5 10 months ago
Quoted from lint:

I have had this one for a while and finally decided to get her up and running. I have never played one so I am interested in seeing how the rules go. I have the legs soaking in evapo-rust right now (can anyone confirm the leg size on these?). Once I have it on it's legs I will dig into the bottom board, then the backbox and finally the playfield. I notice a problem straight away. The plastic coating that I have read these use is all shrunk and bubbling. I am trying to figure out a way to remove it without effecting the beautiful artwork. Any tips? It is not mylar.
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Cool Game. I am going to be following. I also have a criterium 75 in my project queue. The game is littered with cold solder joints. So always tug!

#6 10 months ago

Legs are 31". So glad I have the correct ones. They are coming out of the Evapo-rust pretty nice so I will get those coated with some oil and hopefully have the machine up on it's legs this weekend. This MDF/pressed wood cabinet weighs a TON. No water damage thankfully. I plan on coating any exposed wood ends with sealer to hopefully keep it safe as long as it can. Would love a plywood donor though. Transferring that side art would be a must.

#7 10 months ago

Legs derusted and back up on her feet. Lots more photos posted in the Gallery here: https://pinside.com/pinball/machine/criterium-80/gallery
I also uploaded to IPDB.

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#8 10 months ago

Hello I am a big Recel fan, and can only advise against the removal of the foil. Haven't seen such a change in the foil yet, but the Criterium series seems to have a problem with the foil. Have 6 of them and only one has a usable playfield. There are some PDF files of the playfield but not of the Criterium 80. So foil down means repaint, this is possible as there are no color gradients but a lot of work.
I would first try to warm up the foil very slowly (hair dryer is enough) and press it back on with a roller.

#9 10 months ago

By foil I assume you mean the plastic coating? There is no way it will stick back down so I will have to work on getting it up. It is bubbled, cracked and brittle. I have a local who removed his from a Crit 75 without any paint loss but I hear the glue residue took about a month to remove working on it everyday.
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#10 10 months ago

so many cold solder joints I am almost afraid to tug on anything else. ill have to reflow nearly everything just for piece of mind.

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#11 10 months ago
Quoted from lint:

so many cold solder joints I am almost afraid to tug on anything else. ill have to reflow nearly everything just for piece of mind.
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Like I said before. Welcome to criterium 75/80. Mine is the exact same way with the cold solder joints. Keep tugging away!

Also how did your art turn out after the mylar pull. Any loss?

#12 10 months ago
Quoted from Gundam_Pilot_:

Like I said before. Welcome to criterium 75/80. Mine is the exact same way with the cold solder joints. Keep tugging away!
Also how did your art turn out after the mylar pull. Any loss?

You think I work that fast?! I have started using the freeze method and so far so good. Only tiny amounts of loss and only under where posts were crushing the mylar into the paint. I am going to go very slow. As excruciating as getting the mylar up is I fear the glue residue will be even worse of a job.

#13 10 months ago
Quoted from lint:

You think I work that fast?! I have started using the freeze method and so far so good. Only tiny amounts of loss and only under where posts were crushing the mylar into the paint. I am going to go very slow. As excruciating as getting the mylar up is I fear the glue residue will be even worse of a job.

haha no no. I do agree that the glue remove will be terrible. i am not sure what will be the best solution to remove it, but i would try naptha in a spot with no art and see how it breaks through

#14 10 months ago

Good news, Lacquer thinner works great at loosening the glue for removal. Bad news is it liquefies the paint. Glad I tried on a small area first. all the solid colors will make touch up easy. Still on the hunt for something to loosen the glue but not effect whatever this paint it.

#15 10 months ago

Did you try flour and 90%+ aclcohol? That works well for most mylar glue.

Put the flour on the playfield and soak it. Then it typically just rolls away.

#16 10 months ago
Quoted from Garrett:

Did you try flour and 90%+ aclcohol? That works well for most mylar glue.
Put the flour on the playfield and soak it. Then it typically just rolls away.

haven't tried yet. will be the next thing I attempt.

1 week later
#17 10 months ago

been working on other projects but had a chance to go out and remove all the ball guides yesterday.

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2 months later
#18 7 months ago

Alcohol and flour are a good method to remove the glue.
Do not let it soak in too long, this will dissolve the paint.
Have already implemented twice, patience is the most important, was punished each time with detachments if it is done too quickly.
If it is to remain original, a film should be applied again.
Painting is also possible, but the pin will run a little differently.
From the car area I also like to take the best stone chip protection films.
Greetings Pit

#19 7 months ago

Looking forward to following along. Love the playfield art on this game.

#20 7 months ago
Quoted from Pit-in-the-Box:

Alcohol and flour are a good method to remove the glue.
Do not let it soak in too long, this will dissolve the paint.
Have already implemented twice, patience is the most important, was punished each time with detachments if it is done too quickly.
If it is to remain original, a film should be applied again.
Painting is also possible, but the pin will run a little differently.
From the car area I also like to take the best stone chip protection films.
Greetings Pit

thanks for the info. What kind and what grade of alcohol have you had success with? what is your method?

#21 7 months ago

Use pure alcohol, in Germany it is also called methylated spirits.
Place with flour dust nows with alcohol soak. Leave to act briefly, the flour binds the dissolved glue. Remove the flour by hand, instead of flour you can also use a clean cotton cloth. But always take a new place to absorb the glue.
It never all goes away immediately, man must often work in shifts.
All in all, a big punishment.
Only aid to not visible places in no plastic cake spatula.
Greetings Pit

#22 7 months ago
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#23 7 months ago
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