(Topic ID: 215145)

1974 Out of Sight tens relay and coil stuck on startup

By fattybobattyyo

3 years ago

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  • 10 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Runbikeskilee
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#1 3 years ago

I’m working to restore this machine that I bought not working... I think I’m really close but the tens relay and reel coil are sticking on as soon as a new game starts and won’t release. I’ve checked all I can think of... the playfield switches, score motor switches, EOS switches on score reels. Everything appears to be in good shape from what I can tell (no shorts etc). Any other thoughts or ideas for what could be causing this?

After startup everything seems to work fine... the ball ejects the pop bumpers slingshots rollovers and flippers all work. I just can’t leave the game on for long because the tens are stuck on and won’t release.

Note, even if I manually set score reels to zero, it still triggers that tens unit to advance and holds it on.

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#2 3 years ago
Quoted from fattybobattyyo:

the tens relay and reel coil are sticking on as soon as a new game starts and won’t release.

Temporarily unplug the playfield to see if the problem is a stuck switch there.

#3 3 years ago

A non obvious switch to check is on the kicking slingshot, not the pf contact sitting behind the rubber but the contact mounted on the kicker mounting foot. These (both left and right sides) need to be normally open and only close momentarily at the top of the rebound. i had a game where the return spring wasnt seated properly pushing the rod away from the coil. Check it out..

#4 3 years ago

Also, don't neglect to check out the tab ends of every single 10-pt switch, where the wires solder on. A bent tab at that end that is touching another tab or wire is the same as a closed contact.

#5 3 years ago

Pinhead52... I think you’re onto something... those switches and tabs behind the slingshots are normally open like they’re supposed to be and the tabs aren’t touching, but with my meter I’m only measuring 1.5 ohms between the contacts (on both sides). The switches have same colored wires connected on both sides so I’m guessing they both connect back to the same place, but I can’t tell where that is from the schematic... maybe that’s the culprit wherever they connect back to?

#6 3 years ago

You are looking at the contacts that are opened by the elbow of the kicking arm? (they are sneaky little devils)

Its right there on the diagram, kicking rubber sw's but they are all in parallel with the rest of pf 10 pt switches. with power off, and pf unplugged measure again. if a direct short you'll see 0 ohms etc. If you have 0 ohms them remove the rubbers on all the pf 10pt contacts and as Rum said, inspect the tabs to all the switches

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#7 3 years ago

here's a pic of the contact with a post off of the kicker arm opening the contact at rest, non energized

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#8 3 years ago

Cool, thank you for the pics and additional explanation. That makes more sense now. Those were the switches I was inspecting under the playfield, but I was measuring resistance/continuity with the playfield still connected to the rest of the machine. I know... probably rookie mistake
When I’m back, I’ll disconnect the playfield then meter everything again. That should help narrow it down. I’ll provide an update after I have the chance to do that. Thanks guys!

#9 3 years ago

Yes... finally found it!
I disconnected playfield then metered each switch individually to narrow it down (had to unsolder a wire from each switch to narrow down properly since they are all in parralel). Finally found a switch behind the drop targets with a bent support blade (that was semi-concealed where the switch passes through the play surface)! Thanks for the help and guidance... I appreciate it!

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#10 3 years ago

Aaah, the old short from the mangled blade stiffener. Often, you end up having to disassemble the switch in order to properly straighten/re-tension the switch blades and the stiffener. Just goes to prove that even when a switch contact appears to be open, there are other places on the switch that need to be inspected to rule out a shorted switch.

Great that you got it working properly.

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