(Topic ID: 259812)

1973 Williams Gulfstream Restoration

By Blake

4 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 114 posts
  • 19 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Bakchos
  • Topic is favorited by 13 Pinsiders

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#7 4 years ago

looks great! Don't forget to lightly lube the contact plate and metal ratchet teeth with superlube or similar dielectric grease.

#13 4 years ago

Yes nice... just curious, are you cleaning your coil sleeves or replacing? If your game has a ton of plays And you plan on keeping it, I’d replace them... at least the 10 and 100 point counters, flippers, kickers, and pop bumper sleeves.

#17 4 years ago
Quoted from Blake:

All metal sleeves get replaced with nylon. If they already have nylon I clean, inspect and then decide whether or not to replace. I have had to replace 3/4 of all coil sleeves so far.
Thanks
Blake

That’s perfect!

#18 4 years ago

I actually think 70s Williams score reel units of are a lot easier to get dialed in than Gottlieb units of the same period. Nice job on those units, Gulfstream is an underrated game; You’re getting me pumped to get mine shopped and playing 100%.

#25 4 years ago

Looks nice! I found that my Gulfstream's fuse holders were intermittently failing over time... ordered some from PBR; they can be screwed directly into the game's current fuse block, easy squeezy and highly recommended. I also replaced the one under the playfield.

2 weeks later
#33 4 years ago

looking great... when you reassemble the mechs and fire it up, you will be excite at the quickness of this game; I think it plays better at a 6-8 degree angle.

#37 4 years ago
Quoted from Blake:

Thanks for all the kind words. I have spoke with a few folks who own this table and they all love it. One of them said at parties it gets played more then their DMD's. I thought that was interesting. I will try the steeper pitch when its all said and done and report back.
All coil stops, worn out plungers, worn links, steel sleeves, exc. are getting replaced. Coils that are not up to spec will be replaced too.
Here are a couple more pics from last night. Reassembled kickout mech and a start on the other flipper assembly.
Thanks
Blake[quoted image][quoted image]

I see that coil with the Segasa logo... do you have the Spanish version of this game, or did you buy a replacement coil? Curious about where this coil came from.

#41 4 years ago

Gulfstream was THE GAME that got me hooked on pinball back in 1973... I thought it was the perfect game providing success for ball control and made shots; I still have mine today. I've never seen a Segasa version in the field... examples of all versions of this game are on the IPDB; it's a great resource.

#46 4 years ago

Great work with the skewer sticks... I did the same on mine, but bypassed the old chewed up areas by drilling new holes.

#49 4 years ago
Quoted from Blake:

Replaced a burnt up coil last night for the left flipper. Still worked and tested good ohm wise but it had heated up to the point of choking the sleeve.
Don’t mind the flux residue on the new coil. It got a good cleaning.
Thanks
Blake[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice soldering!

#53 4 years ago

Nice pix! Not sure if you're aware, but PBR has those white ball stops reproduced... I used them on my Gulfstream and really helps those kickout holes pop when the lights are on underneath.

#58 4 years ago

Just curious, do you plan on removing those pop surrounds? Mine were pretty chewed up, and then removed. I ended up clearing the PF later so it was necessary step.

#62 4 years ago

What type of touchup paints are you applying to those areas? Not sure if you know, but just in case, acrylics won't last long at all if not protected with a clearcoat. If no clear is planned, I'd go with Testors or similar enamel.

Your PF looks really nice all cleaned and shiny!

#64 4 years ago

Great idea; would love to see a few pix of the protector installed. Keep up the great work on an awesome pin!

#67 4 years ago

Nice! Can you share any tips for making sure that new leg support bracket lines up perfectly to accept the leg bolt with no binding? I've heard that this can be a bit tricky. Thanks for sharing your vids!

2 months later
#70 3 years ago

Damn good for your first one... I've touched up three Gulfstreams, and it's never got easier... the purple, blue, and skin tone color match is absolutely brutal to get correct. My experience for purple was that a really good color match on one side didn't match the other areas... that purple was extremely subject to fade, and fade differently on different sections. Blue was almost as tough... took me forever to nail it; fortunately I've never had to touch up the bodies of the playfield characters.

#78 3 years ago
Quoted from Blake:

Upper apron is now finished. Sanded, primed, top coat, sand, second coat.
All other steel apron parts got cleaned, sanded and will get a clear coat.
Thanks
Blake
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Looks great!

2 weeks later
#87 3 years ago

Looks great! I did notice your flipper angle is just a bit too steep... I can see the lighter wood color hinting where the flipper alignment should be.
Reason I bring this up is that a steeper flip angle limits center shots and makes the game harder than it was designed to be IMO. I grew up playing Gulfstream, and its the game that got me hooked, so I've played a bevy of them, and have one in my collection today. I remember playing an example years and years ago with a steep angle, and even with timed passes and bounce-overs, the center target was much more brutal than designed, limiting the fun factor. Don't get me wrong, I love a game set on conservative settings, and my example is set brutally hard, with a steep playfield angle, and I actually moved the posts next to the center target even closer than the most conservative setting.

I like your treatment of the SPECIAL insert lights... what type of lamp did u use for the green?

#89 3 years ago
Quoted from Blake:

I believe you 100% when you say you played this pin a lot because your description of how hard it is to hit the center target is dead on. Great observation and thank you for pointing it out. I will be changing them.
I’m not sure what you’re talking about with the inserts but all of the bulbs used on the machine were #47 bayonet incandescent.
You may have some good insight into this as well. Flipper bounce back. I’m assuming you know exactly what I’m taking about owning this era of Williams EM.
Flipper in upright cradle position. Ball strikes end of bat and engages the power winding of the coil sending the ball flying up the playfield.
On my Gulfstream it pushes the ball pretty far (ave. 6-10”). I have read many places where this is the behavior of the this era’s mechs. What are your thoughts and how is your machine in regards to this behavior?
I have done the following:
- new coil stop, spring, link, pawl, sleeve, EOS, bats/shafts, flipper button switches
- EOS gapped at 1/8” at very end of stroke
- Flipper button switches gapped 1/8”
- One coil is brand new. Resoldered all connections on each coil.
- installed spring washers behind coils
- played around with tension of spring on plunger. No change
- spent some time aligning plunger/coil stop for good seating. (Need to spend more time on this)
I still get buzzing. Which again sounds like is a result of A/C powered flippers. 60 cycles/second of back and forth results in vibration and hence the buzzing noise.
It sounds like this can be minimized by alignments and EOS positioning.
So am I crazy for looking into this further? Does your Gulfstream perform the same way?
My flippers are very powerful too note.
Thanks
Blake

Not exactly sure that I understand what your flips are doing... could you attach a short video?

4 months later
#106 3 years ago
Quoted from kibitzer:

Hi Blake, Gideon here. We've chatted a while back on FB about both our Gulfstream PF restorations. So I recently rebuilt my flippers. Various parts needed to be replaced, but not all. While getting the parts that I was sure I needed, the sales guy talked me into getting new plunger stops that sit at the rear end of the coils. After I installed everything, I got extreme buzzing on both flippers. It was really strange, so I replaced the back end plunger stops with the old ones again and that got rid of the buzzing. There's some minor buzzing that no longer bothered me. The old back stops were slightly mushroomed but not too bad so I decided to leave them in.
Regarding the flipper bounce when extended and hit hard by a ball, I think increasing the gap slightly (3/16 ?)might help, especially if your flippers are very strong to begin with.
Cheers.

DEFINITELY READ UP on the proper flipper parts... there's great info on pinrepair, and other sites on how to correctly rebuild them. Also, Pinball Resource has the proper parts for ALL your flipper restoration needs, including the correct coil stops.. in fact they're better than the original design! I'd save some money, time and aggravation and buy the correct parts/kits from PBR for your Williams EMs... I've done a ton of WMS games, including my Gulfstream restoration, a 2nd restoration for a friend, and several partial restorations/shop jobs for others... great game!

1 year later
#107 1 year ago
Quoted from Dono:

DEFINITELY READ UP on the proper flipper parts... there's great info on pinrepair, and other sites on how to correctly rebuild them. Also, Pinball Resource has the proper parts for ALL your flipper restoration needs, including the correct coil stops.. in fact they're better than the original design! I'd save some money, time and aggravation and buy the correct parts/kits from PBR for your Williams EMs... I've done a ton of WMS games, including my Gulfstream restoration, a 2nd restoration for a friend, and several partial restorations/shop jobs for others... great game!

Just to add, your flips are too low... notice the small shallow holes just past the flipper ends... line up your flip tips with those holes, crank 'em down and you're good to go... any lower and the game is not fun, since popping that center target is much harder than the engineers designed it to be.

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