(Topic ID: 259812)

1973 Williams Gulfstream Restoration

By Blake

4 years ago


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  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Bakchos
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#1 4 years ago

Started working on bringing my Gulfstream back to life last week. Haven't barely touched it up until now.

Up first is the back box. Issues were mainly gummed up steppers with old steel coil sleeves and over lubed cog assemblies. I will be going back over poor solder joints after everything is functioning smoothly. Much more to come.

Cleaned up and adjusted:

-Ball Count Stepper
-Replay Stepper
-Match Unit

Up Next:

-Score Reels
-Relay Bank

Thanks
Blake

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#3 4 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

What did you have that stepper disk soaking in?

91% alcohol.

Thanks
Blake

#8 4 years ago
Quoted from dmarston:

I hope you'll show this off at Pintastic New England in June!
.................David Marston

Not sure it’s worthy but I would be happy too bring it if people would like to play it.

I’ve been the last three years and have yet to bring a game so I guess it’s about time.

I certainly have enjoyed the variety of pins folks have brought in the last few years.

Thanks
Blake

#9 4 years ago

Thanks for the kind words.

I will be adding Teflon lube. Or the PBR stuff.

I have not heard of folks using ultrasonic cleaners but could see them having value in certain applications.

It really is a nice change of pace after working on SS. I seem to find a calming pace while working in EM’s while SS seem to have a lot of highs and lows.

There’s something about being able to remove a portion of the game (head, lower cab, pf), work on it and then see the improvements made without plugging anything in or having to power up.

Thanks
Blake

#11 4 years ago

Score reels are now clean. Back box has now been completely gone through. I attached the head back to the cab to test my work and we now have a functioning machine.

Lower cab is next. Then the bottom side of the playfield. Lots more to come.

Thanks
Blake

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#15 4 years ago
Quoted from Dono:

Yes nice... just curious, are you cleaning your coil sleeves or replacing? If your game has a ton of plays And you plan on keeping it, I’d replace them... at least the 10 and 100 point counters, flippers, kickers, and pop bumper sleeves.

All metal sleeves get replaced with nylon. If they already have nylon I clean, inspect and then decide whether or not to replace. I have had to replace 3/4 of all coil sleeves so far.

Thanks
Blake

#16 4 years ago
Quoted from Murphdom:

What’s your method of cleaning all of these components? It’s looking great.

I have broken down each unit in full. Then decide what cleaning steps to take based on how bad it is and what it is that I'm cleaning. Bakelite boards have all been cleaned with scotch brite (green) and wiped down with 91% alcohol. Springs, metal gears, and metal actuator arms have been cleaned with some level of degreaser. Different concentrations of simple green for the lighter stuff and brake cleaner for super stubborn, rusty or seized up parts. All which then get cleaned with alcohol and then hit with scotch brite pad or 400 sand paper, then again with alcohol. Plastic pieces soak in alcohol and scrubbed with toothbrush.

Thanks
Blake

#19 4 years ago
Quoted from Dono:

I actually think 70s Williams score reel units of are a lot easier to get dialed in than Gottlieb units of the same period. Nice job on those units, Gulfstream is an underrated game; You’re getting me pumped to get mine shopped and playing 100%.

Yea I have been enjoying the restoration. Should be starting on the lower cabinet this week.

Thanks
Blake

#21 4 years ago
Quoted from Peruman:

I'm working on a Little Chief right now and am about to start cleaning up the steppers and scoring reels. This is the first Williams game I have worked on and the steppers and reels are harder to access than on the Gottlieb EMs I have worked on before.
Did you desolder all of the wires from each stepper unit to pull it off the game? Or did you work within the cabinet/head as needed.
Your cleaning work is amazing! I will be attending my first Pintastic this year, it would be awesome to see this EM there.
Alberto

Thanks for the kind words Alberto.

I did not unsolder. Once you remove the head and get it up on a table in front of you there should be plenty of room to work. Most of the holding brackets can be removed easily if needed for extra slack. I found that it made it more difficult on some of the steppers though and chose to leave them mounted.

If your restricted from the side walls of the back box you can remove the whole board that there mounted to and work flat.

Take your time and take pictures as you work so putting it back together is not a struggle. I am having a lot of fun with mine.

Thanks
Blake

#22 4 years ago

Lower control panel is now done.

- Everything removed from the board and board thoroughly cleaned. (Mice piss was bad)
- All heavy rust spots cleaned (still not satisfied with some spots. Will probably pull and put in tumbler after using Dremel.)
- Score motor cams cleaned. Oil window oiled.
- All switch stacks tightened
- All leaf contacts Cleaned
- All leaf switch gaps adjusted as needed
- Fuse block cleaned. (Proper fuses installed)
- All relays inspected/adjusted for proper full throw
- Male Jones plugs cleaned

Up next is the lower playfield. Will also be rebuilding the chime box and inspecting the coin door and rest of lower cabinet.

More coming.

Thanks
Blake

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#24 4 years ago
Quoted from Silverstreak02:

Huge difference. That looks great.

It’s amazing how much easier it is to track wires down and follow schematics when there’s a nice clean backdrop.

Thanks
Blake

#26 4 years ago
Quoted from Dono:

Looks nice! I found that my Gulfstream's fuse holders were intermittently failing over time... ordered some from PBR; they can be screwed directly into the game's current fuse block, easy squeezy and highly recommended. I also replaced the one under the playfield.

I was expecting the need to replace mine. But after a good cleaning and close inspection they still are very springy with good tension. Not to mention they cleaned up pretty decent so I’ll be keeping them.

Thanks
Blake

#28 4 years ago
Quoted from LeChuck:

Following this thread since I love watching this kind of cleanup.
What did you use to clean the bottom control panel board? I took mine outside and used a Shop-Vac to blow and suck away all the dirt and metal dust. It would have been nice to scrub the wood, but it was too tedious to get in all those nooks and crannies. Mine looks a lot better, but not quite as bright as yours.
I'm also in love now with using the Dremel polishing/cleaning tips for the stepper contacts (and anything else I feel like shining up).
Was your score motor making weird noises? I didn't think they really ever needed to be oiled unless something was acting up.

I removed assemblies as I went around the board and cleaned the wood with a cloth rung out with dish soap and hot water. It certainly was tedious. No getting around it. At times I may have had as many as 3 coils lifted off the board to properly clean but never had to unsolder anything. I did the vacuum job like you did but felt it wasn’t enough in my case. I also really wanted to get rid of the mice piss smell which I think I accomplished pretty well.

My score motor was working perfect, no noise. But adding a few drops to the oil window just ensures it’s continued success. Never add the oil anywhere but the window.

Thanks
Blake

1 week later
#30 4 years ago
Quoted from V_piscopo:

Nice work Blake! Coming along nicely. Always happy to see you (and everyone) giving love to the well deserving EM's. I agree with Dono, even though they look good those fuse blocks on EM's suck hard. That's always one of the first things I do. Even if I know I'm not going to keep it it makes it easier for the next guy.

Thanks buddy,

These older machines are a lot of fun to work on. And the advances that take place as you work your way through a game keep you wanting more. Really is special to get done a head box or control board and have a games score reels all reset to zero for the first time.

I have the fuse blocks and was anticipating changing them as is so common in vids. But man this block currently has no resistance issues and is clamping down nicely around the fuses. Who knows I might end up swapping it regardless. The new style blocks would really throw off the look of the control board too.

Thanks
Blake

#31 4 years ago

Working through the bottom of the PF. Plenty to do. Nearly every mech is gunked up. Lots of bad/dirty/pitted switches. Stripped mounting holes. And mixed bag of hardware.

Not to worry, we will take care of that.

Thanks
Blake
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#35 4 years ago

Thanks for all the kind words. I have spoke with a few folks who own this table and they all love it. One of them said at parties it gets played more then their DMD's. I thought that was interesting. I will try the steeper pitch when its all said and done and report back.

All coil stops, worn out plungers, worn links, steel sleeves, exc. are getting replaced. Coils that are not up to spec will be replaced too.

Here are a couple more pics from last night. Reassembled kickout mech and a start on the other flipper assembly.

Thanks
Blake

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#38 4 years ago
Quoted from Dono:

I see that coil with the Segasa logo... do you have the Spanish version of this game, or did you buy a replacement coil? Curious about where this coil came from.

You know I'm not sure. I did not know there was a Spanish version. I know there is the OXO multiplayer version with different art. Other then the coil what are some other identifying features? I don't recall any of the text or instructions being in Spanish.

Thanks
Blake

#42 4 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

Wow. It looks like there is a full Segasa version! I knew that Tropic Fun is the Add-A-Ball version, but I had no idea there was a Spanish one.
Does yours have the "Segasa" on the backglass, below the score windows?
https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1093

Still have not had a chance to check on this. But I doubt its a Segasa as all the other coils under the PF were Williams. Probably a swap, which on this machine would be par for the coarse.

I will confirm this week though.

Thanks
Blake

#43 4 years ago
Quoted from Redfive05:

Nice work... can't wait to play this if you bring it to Pintastic.
I restored one and brought it to Pintastic a few years ago.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-gulfstream-restored-for-pintastic-2017
Every time I looked there was someone playing it.

If mine turns out as nice as yours I'll be happy!

Love the additions of green and purple you added.

Thanks
Blake

#44 4 years ago

Left flipper bushing holes were really damaged. One was non-existent (An unsharpened pencil could fit in the hole). Holes for the coil mounting bracket and link stop were all a bit sloppy so I figured I would repair the whole section. Wood skewers and toothpics worked nicely. Add your wood glue, find the best fitting skewer, push into hole and cut flush. Results came out clean and I now have a good structure and strong bond to mount too.

Replaced a deck screw or two as well.

Thanks
Blake

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#47 4 years ago
Quoted from Dono:

Great work with the skewer sticks... I did the same on mine, but bypassed the old chewed up areas by drilling new holes.

Good idea with the drilling technique. I was very impressed with how well everything lined up afterwards. Not to mention how secure all the assemblies felt.

Thanks
Blake

#48 4 years ago

Replaced a burnt up coil last night for the left flipper. Still worked and tested good ohm wise but it had heated up to the point of choking the sleeve.

Don’t mind the flux residue on the new coil. It got a good cleaning.

Thanks
Blake

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#50 4 years ago
Quoted from Dono:

Nice soldering!

Thanks! Certainly more challenging on 46 year old wires.

Blake

#51 4 years ago

Getting close to the end on the bottom side mechs. Still have the 3 pops and 2 large bank resets to do. Then its onto cleaning/adjusting switches and relays.

Looking forward to cleaning up the PF art.

Thanks
Blake

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#52 4 years ago

Finished working on the bottom side of the pop bumpers. Same old story: Gunked up, missing screws, bad adjustments, burnt contacts. Check out the mushroomed skirt stem that comes in contact with the spoon. Note that some parts will be getting replaced when I complete the top side tear down.

Thanks
Blake
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#54 4 years ago
Quoted from Dono:

Nice pix! Not sure if you're aware, but PBR has those white ball stops reproduced... I used them on my Gulfstream and really helps those kickout holes pop when the lights are on underneath.

Yes I look forward to putting a nice size list together for Steve. Thanks for letting me know. Very close to turning this PF over and stripping the top side. Really looking forward to that. Still have the two HUGE reset bank coils and assemblies to disassemble and all the switches/relays. I'm excited to power everything back up and see the differences made so far.

Thanks
Blake

#55 4 years ago

Last of the pics from the bottom side playfield. More of the same with gunked up mechs, missing hardware and stripped out screw holes. Sure does look nice now. And will be much easier to work on in the future.

I have reinstalled the playfield and reconfirmed everything is still working appropriately. YAY! This time everything is much snappier as expected. Played a couple games and was pleasantly surprised how fast and great the rule set is. The Add-A-Ball design really drives home the rules too.

But the PF was way to rough to keep playing as is, even with a new ball. So I have stripped the entire topside, right down to nothing. Only the side wood rails and top arch remain. Both of which will probably be coming off at some point for cleaning/refinish.

Topside playfield pics coming soon.

Thanks
Blake

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#56 4 years ago

Topside pics before and after stripping. I've started the cleaning process with what was obviously a frequent hideout of the mice and probably the dirtiest part of the playfield. The whole area was nearly black and felt like sandpaper even after a thorough vacuuming. Between Naptha and Novus 2 I was able to get some good results and was excited to see and feel that the finish was still intact on this playfield.

The rough spot around the left kick out hole will probably be addressed with bondo. And touchups will most likely be done where needed and then the playfield will have to have a final finish to lock in the new paint and help protect the old. Top steel playfield arch will eventually be removed, sanded, primed and repainted.

But for now its all about cleaning.

Thanks
Blake

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#59 4 years ago
Quoted from Peruman:

blake --> Are you applying the naphta and novus 2 with a micro-fiber cloth? Curious as to what your cleaning process is. That is a nice job!
Alberto

Thanks.

- Thoroughly vacuum with brush attachment
- Microfiber or other smooth cloth (I've used old cotton T-shirts with great results)
- Naptha several times (apply directly to cloth NOT playfield) rotating to clean spot on cloth until nothing is removed
- Novus 2 (apply to playfield in small areas) rotating to clean spot on cloth until nothing is removed

Naptha works great for old playfields that have wear or planking (most EM's) as it evaporates quickly and is not water based. It doesn't remove paint or the finish. And has no grit. I personally think it helps to prime a rough area that has caked on dirt/grime for the second cleaning using Novus 2. The Novus 2 has a grit to it (hence polishing) and therefore does a good job removing the stuff Naptha can't remove.

After the area is thoroughly cleaned to my liking I use a clean microfiber cloth to wipe off any of the Novus residue and this usually reveals your finish. Of coarse waxing is your next step if you were just cleaning.

Thanks
Blake

#60 4 years ago
Quoted from Dono:

Just curious, do you plan on removing those pop surrounds? Mine were pretty chewed up, and then removed. I ended up clearing the PF later so it was necessary step.

Are you talking about the Mylar around the pop bumper skirts? If so mine are surprisingly in good shape with nearly no lifting or paint peel. So I will be leaving them.

Thanks
Blake

#61 4 years ago

Playfield cleaned up very nice. Still has a considerable amount of protection from its original finish. Touch ups will be next on the To Do List.

Thanks
Blake

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#63 4 years ago
Quoted from Dono:

What type of touchup paints are you applying to those areas? Not sure if you know, but just in case, acrylics won't last long at all if not protected with a clearcoat. If no clear is planned, I'd go with Testors or similar enamel.
Your PF looks really nice all cleaned and shiny!

Originally I planned on using acrylics and then putting a clear over the whole playfield. And I agree the enamels are the way to go if not putting a finish on the PF. But now I am leaning toward doing the touch ups and installing a custom playfield protector that a friend of mine has got really good at making.

I've played several machines of his with them installed and they all look and play amazing. From SS to EM's from the 60's and 70's. This will also help with the slight cupping of the inserts. And the fact that this machine and others I'm restoring will end up in my future public arcade, the additional protection will prove invaluable.

Thanks
Blake

#65 4 years ago
Quoted from Dono:

Great idea; would love to see a few pix of the protector installed. Keep up the great work on an awesome pin!

I will be sure to post some. Probably be a week or two before that gets done.

Thanks
Blake

#66 4 years ago

Did some cabinet work the other day. Front left joint was pretty bad. Take a look at the linked videos to see where it started and the full process to completion. They are all pretty short. I'm happy how it came out.

Video Links In Order:

Part 1 - https://www.facebook.com/blake.cameron.121/videos/2500524673545494/
Part 2 - https://www.facebook.com/blake.cameron.121/videos/2500584743539487/
Part 3 - https://www.facebook.com/blake.cameron.121/videos/2500644403533521/
Part 4 - https://www.facebook.com/blake.cameron.121/videos/2501375130127115/
Part 5 - https://www.facebook.com/blake.cameron.121/videos/2501414996789795/

Thanks
Blake

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2 months later
#68 3 years ago
Quoted from Dono:

Nice! Can you share any tips for making sure that new leg support bracket lines up perfectly to accept the leg bolt with no binding? I've heard that this can be a bit tricky. Thanks for sharing your vids!

Sorry I missed this.

Yes if you are using a new wood corner brace I simply install with glue and screws if necessary and then drill from the outside in. Staying aware of my angle while using a bit size that provides a little wiggle room. Remembering the screw should not need force to push through and the leg plate threads are what provide the mend between leg and cabinet. With the cabinet corner propped up and exposed you can then screw the bolts into the unmounted plate until secure. Usually at this point you can tell if there is any binding and if the angle of your freshly drilled holes is accurate. If all is good I then screw in my leg bolt plate (if its a screw type) or if an older style that is recessed into the wood brace I then mark my mounting holes and trace out the plate outline so I can remove everything and prep the wood brace.

Hope this helps. New photos of Gulfstream coming very soon!
Blake

#69 3 years ago

Paint touch ups. A good color match is not easy to mix. This won't win any beauty contests. But we blended in the eye sores pretty well. I'm pretty pleased with the outcome considering these were my first touch ups on any playfield.

If interested here is a video with more detail: https://www.facebook.com/blake.cameron.121/videos/2558402674424360/

Thanks
Blake

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#71 3 years ago
Quoted from Dono:

Damn good for your first one... I've touched up three Gulfstreams, and it's never got easier... the purple, blue, and skin tone color match is absolutely brutal to get correct. My experience for purple was that a really good color match on one side didn't match the other areas... that purple was extremely subject to fade, and fade differently on different sections. Blue was almost as tough... took me forever to nail it; fortunately I've never had to touch up the bodies of the playfield characters.

Thanks!
I agree 100% on the purple. Took a long time of me failing before I got a good match. Nearly gave up on that color. Skin tone I got after a couple tries and blue was pretty good as well. The fade is definitely what makes them tricky almost putting a transparency on certain areas. And mine was like yours in that the color tones were different depending on which part of the playfield you were looking at. The worst being the white “cream” color. Which in the end I decided would be mostly unseen and so I left it as is.

Thanks
Blake

#72 3 years ago

DIY playfield protector made of very thin PETG plastic. Super clear after film is removed. No more issues with leveling inserts and no need to clear to protect touch ups.

Thanks
Blake

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#74 3 years ago
Quoted from Peruman:

Do you have a CNC machine or did you hand cut it?
I'm curious as one of my EM's (a Little Chief) could really use one.
Alberto

All by hand using a small pair of high end scissors (otherwise you get rough edges/bending) and several sets of hole punches. With the hole punches you need a surface that is durable but allows the punch to penetrate. We used 3/4" plywood and had good results. Make sure its not warped or you quickly lose all your force from the give of the wood. Also helps to place the plywood on a hard surface again to minimize the play.

Prep work with your tracing and or measurements is the most important part. Small details that become important to the overall shape of the protector are easily overlooked. Double/triple check your work.

Thanks
Blake

#76 3 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

I think you qualify as a dermatologist after cleaning up all the skin cancer on those poor beachgoers. Must be too much sun over the years.
Nice work!

Dr. Van Nostrand hard at work.

Thanks
Blake

#77 3 years ago

Upper apron is now finished. Sanded, primed, top coat, sand, second coat.

All other steel apron parts got cleaned, sanded and will get a clear coat.

Thanks
Blake

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#79 3 years ago
Quoted from Dono:

Looks great!

Still some slight pitting visible. And painting outside with the elements (wind/bugs) is starting to grow old. But it’s what I have to work with as of now.

Plan to build a portable paint booth soon.

Thanks
Blake

#80 3 years ago

Playfield protector film has yet to be pulled off so forgive the haziness.

New rollover guides, pop bumper (bodies, skirts, bases, springs, lamp sockets) I forgot to order the rings WTF, full flipper rebuild, rollover buttons, playfield rubber and a freshly restored upper apron. Lower apron to be reassembled next. Followed by plenty of odds and ends, then fine tuning.

Better pics coming soon. Without PF protector film!

Thanks
Blake

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#83 3 years ago
Quoted from Mikala:

Something you may want to consider. I added cabaret lighting to the top arch. I used amber #44 bulbs along with the amber sleeves. Adds a nice touch to an area that is kind of dark during play. Photos with flash and without.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Hey I like that! Did you have to drill out or use existing holes?
Thanks for sharing.
Blake

#85 3 years ago
Quoted from Mikala:

Your middle apron already has the holes in it. I drilled the holes in the playfield for the sockets. Wiring was a little tricky, it’s best that you tap into the positive and negative where the lights start under the PF. You can’t just find the nearest light socket and tap into it. You will notice some weird wiring going on under the playfield, some of the sockets are wired backwards for some reason.

Right on. I'll look into it. Your machine looks very nice.

Thanks
Blake

1 week later
#86 3 years ago

This one is just about done! Top side is put back together and game is playing 100%. I love Add-A-Ball pins

Added:
- New flipper button switches
- New kickout housings
- New flipper bats
- #47 bulbs throughout backbox

Cleaned up lower apron (no more sticker residue). Dialed in lane guides. Still need to rebuild chimes and swap in new pop rod and rings. Have new bolts to install on legs. May touch up cab and back box. Video of playfield close up: https://www.facebook.com/100007639562581/videos/2574353502829277/

Thanks
Blake

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#88 3 years ago
Quoted from Dono:

Looks great! I did notice your flipper angle is just a bit too steep... I can see the lighter wood color hinting where the flipper alignment should be.
Reason I bring this up is that a steeper flip angle limits center shots and makes the game harder than it was designed to be IMO. I grew up playing Gulfstream, and its the game that got me hooked, so I've played a bevy of them, and have one in my collection today. I remember playing an example years and years ago with a steep angle, and even with timed passes and bounce-overs, the center target was much more brutal than designed, limiting the fun factor. Don't get me wrong, I love a game set on conservative settings, and my example is set brutally hard, with a steep playfield angle, and I actually moved the posts next to the center target even closer than the most conservative setting.
I like your treatment of the SPECIAL insert lights... what type of lamp did u use for the green?

I believe you 100% when you say you played this pin a lot because your description of how hard it is to hit the center target is dead on. Great observation and thank you for pointing it out. I will be changing them.

I’m not sure what you’re talking about with the inserts but all of the bulbs used on the machine were #47 bayonet incandescent.

You may have some good insight into this as well. Flipper bounce back. I’m assuming you know exactly what I’m taking about owning this era of Williams EM.

Flipper in upright cradle position. Ball strikes end of bat and engages the power winding of the coil sending the ball flying up the playfield.

On my Gulfstream it pushes the ball pretty far (ave. 6-10”). I have read many places where this is the behavior of the this era’s mechs. What are your thoughts and how is your machine in regards to this behavior?

I have done the following:
- new coil stop, spring, link, pawl, sleeve, EOS, bats/shafts, flipper button switches
- EOS gapped at 1/8” at very end of stroke
- Flipper button switches gapped 1/8”
- One coil is brand new. Resoldered all connections on each coil.
- installed spring washers behind coils
- played around with tension of spring on plunger. No change
- spent some time aligning plunger/coil stop for good seating. (Need to spend more time on this)

I still get buzzing. Which again sounds like is a result of A/C powered flippers. 60 cycles/second of back and forth results in vibration and hence the buzzing noise.

It sounds like this can be minimized by alignments and EOS positioning.

So am I crazy for looking into this further? Does your Gulfstream perform the same way?
My flippers are very powerful too note.

Thanks
Blake

#90 3 years ago
Quoted from Dono:

Not exactly sure that I understand what your flips are doing... could you attach a short video?

Its basically exactly whats happening on this MET but not for the same reason obviously.

I have read topics about it and many say its normal for Williams EM of this era. Some find it on other makes such as Gottlieb too. But Williams seems to be the worst culprit.

Thanks
Blake

#93 3 years ago
Quoted from Redfive05:

This machine looks amazing! I think it came out better than the Gulfstream I restored!

Do you have pics or a link? Love to see other Gulfstreams and EM restores.

Thanks
Blake

#94 3 years ago
Quoted from Silverstreak02:

Your game looks great. I have a Williams Space Mission that has the same flipper problem that you described. I did all the same things you mentioned with no results. I live with it.

Thats what I have been finding. A select few say it isn't normal but the overwhelming vote which includes quite a few hardcore EM guys, says its the mech design and the fact they are A/C powered.

Thanks
Blake

#101 3 years ago
Quoted from Redfive05:

Here's My Restoration: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-gulfstream-restored-for-pintastic-2017
I did the same thing as Mikala and added a light under each saucer with a red 44 that turns on when you complete three in a row, and the green 44’s inside the bumper caps. I wish I had thought to put green lamps in the special rollover lamps.... that's a really nice touch.
If I could go back and change something about that restoration I would have used a pastel green or like a sea foam green card stock for the instruction cards instead of that bright neon green.
~Jeff

I remembering seeing this post somewhere and commenting. But I don't see my comment in the thread. Weird. The back glass looks in amazing condition. Mine is pretty rough. Also your pf was pretty sweet even before your improvements. I have only played it a handful of games since its restore but I am impressed so far. Plays pretty damn fast for 1973. Thanks for sharing.

Blake

3 weeks later
#102 3 years ago

Gameplay vid -

Enjoy
Blake

1 month later
#105 3 years ago
Quoted from kibitzer:

Hi Blake, Gideon here. We've chatted a while back on FB about both our Gulfstream PF restorations. So I recently rebuilt my flippers. Various parts needed to be replaced, but not all. While getting the parts that I was sure I needed, the sales guy talked me into getting new plunger stops that sit at the rear end of the coils. After I installed everything, I got extreme buzzing on both flippers. It was really strange, so I replaced the back end plunger stops with the old ones again and that got rid of the buzzing. There's some minor buzzing that no longer bothered me. The old back stops were slightly mushroomed but not too bad so I decided to leave them in.
Regarding the flipper bounce when extended and hit hard by a ball, I think increasing the gap slightly (3/16 ?)might help, especially if your flippers are very strong to begin with.
Cheers.

Quoted from Tuukka:

Gulfstream has flippers operating on AC, and if you use plain steel coil stops, they tend to buzz. For silent AC operation, use coilstops that have embedded copper ring "shading coil".

Thanks a bunch for the info. I've played around with the EOS gap and am pretty happy where things are at now. Talked with about a dozen EM guys and definitely sounds like Williams of this era are plagued by design.

Pretty sure I have the proper stops but I'll double check.

2 years later
#110 1 year ago
Quoted from undrdog:

I just got a project GulfStream. What did you clean your score reels with?

I first use a microfiber cloth with warm water and see if there is any paint loss. If not then I add a little dawn dish soap and check again for paint loss. If all is still good but I'm not getting the results I want I use watered down simple green and start very lightly, constantly checking for paint loss. Sometimes the paint is extremely fragile as you may have found. Other times 50/50 simple green mix is no problem at all and really cleans them up nicely.

#111 1 year ago
Quoted from ourdave76:

WOW. I think I need to dig into my Gulfstream and follow your process. Great work.

Thanks! It was a fun restore.

#113 1 year ago
Quoted from undrdog:

I’ve been using 91% alcohol if the numbers will take it, water , or on the last one I did spit on qtips.

Its really trial and error to see what you can get away with. These reels have been made with different quality inks and have seen different levels of neglect/abuse/hardship so sky is the limit on what someone may come across.

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