(Topic ID: 259812)

1973 Williams Gulfstream Restoration

By Blake

4 years ago


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  • 114 posts
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  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Bakchos
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There are 114 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 3.
#1 4 years ago

Started working on bringing my Gulfstream back to life last week. Haven't barely touched it up until now.

Up first is the back box. Issues were mainly gummed up steppers with old steel coil sleeves and over lubed cog assemblies. I will be going back over poor solder joints after everything is functioning smoothly. Much more to come.

Cleaned up and adjusted:

-Ball Count Stepper
-Replay Stepper
-Match Unit

Up Next:

-Score Reels
-Relay Bank

Thanks
Blake

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#2 4 years ago

What did you have that stepper disk soaking in?

#3 4 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

What did you have that stepper disk soaking in?

91% alcohol.

Thanks
Blake

#4 4 years ago

I hope you'll show this off at Pintastic New England in June!
.................David Marston

#5 4 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

What did you have that stepper disk soaking in?

Have you tried putting it in the ultrasonic cleaner? I may try it on my Jacks Open stepper.

#6 4 years ago

Coming along nicely!

#7 4 years ago

looks great! Don't forget to lightly lube the contact plate and metal ratchet teeth with superlube or similar dielectric grease.

#8 4 years ago
Quoted from dmarston:

I hope you'll show this off at Pintastic New England in June!
.................David Marston

Not sure it’s worthy but I would be happy too bring it if people would like to play it.

I’ve been the last three years and have yet to bring a game so I guess it’s about time.

I certainly have enjoyed the variety of pins folks have brought in the last few years.

Thanks
Blake

#9 4 years ago

Thanks for the kind words.

I will be adding Teflon lube. Or the PBR stuff.

I have not heard of folks using ultrasonic cleaners but could see them having value in certain applications.

It really is a nice change of pace after working on SS. I seem to find a calming pace while working in EM’s while SS seem to have a lot of highs and lows.

There’s something about being able to remove a portion of the game (head, lower cab, pf), work on it and then see the improvements made without plugging anything in or having to power up.

Thanks
Blake

#10 4 years ago
Quoted from Blake:

Not sure it’s worthy

You are doing a great job here. I have played some terribly tuned or untuned pins at shows and yours certainly won’t be one based on your work here. Keep at it, I’m enjoying this thread.

#11 4 years ago

Score reels are now clean. Back box has now been completely gone through. I attached the head back to the cab to test my work and we now have a functioning machine.

Lower cab is next. Then the bottom side of the playfield. Lots more to come.

Thanks
Blake

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#12 4 years ago

Wow that looks great.

#13 4 years ago

Yes nice... just curious, are you cleaning your coil sleeves or replacing? If your game has a ton of plays And you plan on keeping it, I’d replace them... at least the 10 and 100 point counters, flippers, kickers, and pop bumper sleeves.

#14 4 years ago

What’s your method of cleaning all of these components? It’s looking great.

#15 4 years ago
Quoted from Dono:

Yes nice... just curious, are you cleaning your coil sleeves or replacing? If your game has a ton of plays And you plan on keeping it, I’d replace them... at least the 10 and 100 point counters, flippers, kickers, and pop bumper sleeves.

All metal sleeves get replaced with nylon. If they already have nylon I clean, inspect and then decide whether or not to replace. I have had to replace 3/4 of all coil sleeves so far.

Thanks
Blake

#16 4 years ago
Quoted from Murphdom:

What’s your method of cleaning all of these components? It’s looking great.

I have broken down each unit in full. Then decide what cleaning steps to take based on how bad it is and what it is that I'm cleaning. Bakelite boards have all been cleaned with scotch brite (green) and wiped down with 91% alcohol. Springs, metal gears, and metal actuator arms have been cleaned with some level of degreaser. Different concentrations of simple green for the lighter stuff and brake cleaner for super stubborn, rusty or seized up parts. All which then get cleaned with alcohol and then hit with scotch brite pad or 400 sand paper, then again with alcohol. Plastic pieces soak in alcohol and scrubbed with toothbrush.

Thanks
Blake

#17 4 years ago
Quoted from Blake:

All metal sleeves get replaced with nylon. If they already have nylon I clean, inspect and then decide whether or not to replace. I have had to replace 3/4 of all coil sleeves so far.
Thanks
Blake

That’s perfect!

#18 4 years ago

I actually think 70s Williams score reel units of are a lot easier to get dialed in than Gottlieb units of the same period. Nice job on those units, Gulfstream is an underrated game; You’re getting me pumped to get mine shopped and playing 100%.

#19 4 years ago
Quoted from Dono:

I actually think 70s Williams score reel units of are a lot easier to get dialed in than Gottlieb units of the same period. Nice job on those units, Gulfstream is an underrated game; You’re getting me pumped to get mine shopped and playing 100%.

Yea I have been enjoying the restoration. Should be starting on the lower cabinet this week.

Thanks
Blake

#20 4 years ago

I'm working on a Little Chief right now and am about to start cleaning up the steppers and scoring reels. This is the first Williams game I have worked on and the steppers and reels are harder to access than on the Gottlieb EMs I have worked on before.

Did you desolder all of the wires from each stepper unit to pull it off the game? Or did you work within the cabinet/head as needed.

Your cleaning work is amazing! I will be attending my first Pintastic this year, it would be awesome to see this EM there.

Alberto

#21 4 years ago
Quoted from Peruman:

I'm working on a Little Chief right now and am about to start cleaning up the steppers and scoring reels. This is the first Williams game I have worked on and the steppers and reels are harder to access than on the Gottlieb EMs I have worked on before.
Did you desolder all of the wires from each stepper unit to pull it off the game? Or did you work within the cabinet/head as needed.
Your cleaning work is amazing! I will be attending my first Pintastic this year, it would be awesome to see this EM there.
Alberto

Thanks for the kind words Alberto.

I did not unsolder. Once you remove the head and get it up on a table in front of you there should be plenty of room to work. Most of the holding brackets can be removed easily if needed for extra slack. I found that it made it more difficult on some of the steppers though and chose to leave them mounted.

If your restricted from the side walls of the back box you can remove the whole board that there mounted to and work flat.

Take your time and take pictures as you work so putting it back together is not a struggle. I am having a lot of fun with mine.

Thanks
Blake

#22 4 years ago

Lower control panel is now done.

- Everything removed from the board and board thoroughly cleaned. (Mice piss was bad)
- All heavy rust spots cleaned (still not satisfied with some spots. Will probably pull and put in tumbler after using Dremel.)
- Score motor cams cleaned. Oil window oiled.
- All switch stacks tightened
- All leaf contacts Cleaned
- All leaf switch gaps adjusted as needed
- Fuse block cleaned. (Proper fuses installed)
- All relays inspected/adjusted for proper full throw
- Male Jones plugs cleaned

Up next is the lower playfield. Will also be rebuilding the chime box and inspecting the coin door and rest of lower cabinet.

More coming.

Thanks
Blake

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#23 4 years ago

Huge difference. That looks great.

#24 4 years ago
Quoted from Silverstreak02:

Huge difference. That looks great.

It’s amazing how much easier it is to track wires down and follow schematics when there’s a nice clean backdrop.

Thanks
Blake

#25 4 years ago

Looks nice! I found that my Gulfstream's fuse holders were intermittently failing over time... ordered some from PBR; they can be screwed directly into the game's current fuse block, easy squeezy and highly recommended. I also replaced the one under the playfield.

#26 4 years ago
Quoted from Dono:

Looks nice! I found that my Gulfstream's fuse holders were intermittently failing over time... ordered some from PBR; they can be screwed directly into the game's current fuse block, easy squeezy and highly recommended. I also replaced the one under the playfield.

I was expecting the need to replace mine. But after a good cleaning and close inspection they still are very springy with good tension. Not to mention they cleaned up pretty decent so I’ll be keeping them.

Thanks
Blake

#27 4 years ago

Following this thread since I love watching this kind of cleanup.

What did you use to clean the bottom control panel board? I took mine outside and used a Shop-Vac to blow and suck away all the dirt and metal dust. It would have been nice to scrub the wood, but it was too tedious to get in all those nooks and crannies. Mine looks a lot better, but not quite as bright as yours.

I'm also in love now with using the Dremel polishing/cleaning tips for the stepper contacts (and anything else I feel like shining up).

Was your score motor making weird noises? I didn't think they really ever needed to be oiled unless something was acting up.

#28 4 years ago
Quoted from LeChuck:

Following this thread since I love watching this kind of cleanup.
What did you use to clean the bottom control panel board? I took mine outside and used a Shop-Vac to blow and suck away all the dirt and metal dust. It would have been nice to scrub the wood, but it was too tedious to get in all those nooks and crannies. Mine looks a lot better, but not quite as bright as yours.
I'm also in love now with using the Dremel polishing/cleaning tips for the stepper contacts (and anything else I feel like shining up).
Was your score motor making weird noises? I didn't think they really ever needed to be oiled unless something was acting up.

I removed assemblies as I went around the board and cleaned the wood with a cloth rung out with dish soap and hot water. It certainly was tedious. No getting around it. At times I may have had as many as 3 coils lifted off the board to properly clean but never had to unsolder anything. I did the vacuum job like you did but felt it wasn’t enough in my case. I also really wanted to get rid of the mice piss smell which I think I accomplished pretty well.

My score motor was working perfect, no noise. But adding a few drops to the oil window just ensures it’s continued success. Never add the oil anywhere but the window.

Thanks
Blake

1 week later
#29 4 years ago

Nice work Blake! Coming along nicely. Always happy to see you (and everyone) giving love to the well deserving EM's. I agree with Dono, even though they look good those fuse blocks on EM's suck hard. That's always one of the first things I do. Even if I know I'm not going to keep it it makes it easier for the next guy.

#30 4 years ago
Quoted from V_piscopo:

Nice work Blake! Coming along nicely. Always happy to see you (and everyone) giving love to the well deserving EM's. I agree with Dono, even though they look good those fuse blocks on EM's suck hard. That's always one of the first things I do. Even if I know I'm not going to keep it it makes it easier for the next guy.

Thanks buddy,

These older machines are a lot of fun to work on. And the advances that take place as you work your way through a game keep you wanting more. Really is special to get done a head box or control board and have a games score reels all reset to zero for the first time.

I have the fuse blocks and was anticipating changing them as is so common in vids. But man this block currently has no resistance issues and is clamping down nicely around the fuses. Who knows I might end up swapping it regardless. The new style blocks would really throw off the look of the control board too.

Thanks
Blake

#31 4 years ago

Working through the bottom of the PF. Plenty to do. Nearly every mech is gunked up. Lots of bad/dirty/pitted switches. Stripped mounting holes. And mixed bag of hardware.

Not to worry, we will take care of that.

Thanks
Blake
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#32 4 years ago

Nice job on the cleaning.

#33 4 years ago

looking great... when you reassemble the mechs and fire it up, you will be excite at the quickness of this game; I think it plays better at a 6-8 degree angle.

#34 4 years ago

makes a huge difference. also make sure you replace those coil stops.

#35 4 years ago

Thanks for all the kind words. I have spoke with a few folks who own this table and they all love it. One of them said at parties it gets played more then their DMD's. I thought that was interesting. I will try the steeper pitch when its all said and done and report back.

All coil stops, worn out plungers, worn links, steel sleeves, exc. are getting replaced. Coils that are not up to spec will be replaced too.

Here are a couple more pics from last night. Reassembled kickout mech and a start on the other flipper assembly.

Thanks
Blake

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#36 4 years ago
Quoted from Blake:

I have spoke with a few folks who own this table and they all love it.

It's a great game!
The tic-tac-toe bonus is easy to understand, classic Christian Marche artwork, and cool day at the beach theme.
You're going to like it.

#37 4 years ago
Quoted from Blake:

Thanks for all the kind words. I have spoke with a few folks who own this table and they all love it. One of them said at parties it gets played more then their DMD's. I thought that was interesting. I will try the steeper pitch when its all said and done and report back.
All coil stops, worn out plungers, worn links, steel sleeves, exc. are getting replaced. Coils that are not up to spec will be replaced too.
Here are a couple more pics from last night. Reassembled kickout mech and a start on the other flipper assembly.
Thanks
Blake[quoted image][quoted image]

I see that coil with the Segasa logo... do you have the Spanish version of this game, or did you buy a replacement coil? Curious about where this coil came from.

#38 4 years ago
Quoted from Dono:

I see that coil with the Segasa logo... do you have the Spanish version of this game, or did you buy a replacement coil? Curious about where this coil came from.

You know I'm not sure. I did not know there was a Spanish version. I know there is the OXO multiplayer version with different art. Other then the coil what are some other identifying features? I don't recall any of the text or instructions being in Spanish.

Thanks
Blake

#39 4 years ago

Wow. It looks like there is a full Segasa version! I knew that Tropic Fun is the Add-A-Ball version, but I had no idea there was a Spanish one.
Does yours have the "Segasa" on the backglass, below the score windows?

https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1093

#40 4 years ago

Nice work... can't wait to play this if you bring it to Pintastic.

I restored one and brought it to Pintastic a few years ago.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-gulfstream-restored-for-pintastic-2017

Every time I looked there was someone playing it.

#41 4 years ago

Gulfstream was THE GAME that got me hooked on pinball back in 1973... I thought it was the perfect game providing success for ball control and made shots; I still have mine today. I've never seen a Segasa version in the field... examples of all versions of this game are on the IPDB; it's a great resource.

#42 4 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

Wow. It looks like there is a full Segasa version! I knew that Tropic Fun is the Add-A-Ball version, but I had no idea there was a Spanish one.
Does yours have the "Segasa" on the backglass, below the score windows?
https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1093

Still have not had a chance to check on this. But I doubt its a Segasa as all the other coils under the PF were Williams. Probably a swap, which on this machine would be par for the coarse.

I will confirm this week though.

Thanks
Blake

#43 4 years ago
Quoted from Redfive05:

Nice work... can't wait to play this if you bring it to Pintastic.
I restored one and brought it to Pintastic a few years ago.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-gulfstream-restored-for-pintastic-2017
Every time I looked there was someone playing it.

If mine turns out as nice as yours I'll be happy!

Love the additions of green and purple you added.

Thanks
Blake

#44 4 years ago

Left flipper bushing holes were really damaged. One was non-existent (An unsharpened pencil could fit in the hole). Holes for the coil mounting bracket and link stop were all a bit sloppy so I figured I would repair the whole section. Wood skewers and toothpics worked nicely. Add your wood glue, find the best fitting skewer, push into hole and cut flush. Results came out clean and I now have a good structure and strong bond to mount too.

Replaced a deck screw or two as well.

Thanks
Blake

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#45 4 years ago
Quoted from Blake:

If mine turns out as nice as yours I'll be happy!
Love the additions of green and purple you added.
Thanks
Blake

Seeing what you've posted here your's looks on track to be even nicer than mine

#46 4 years ago

Great work with the skewer sticks... I did the same on mine, but bypassed the old chewed up areas by drilling new holes.

#47 4 years ago
Quoted from Dono:

Great work with the skewer sticks... I did the same on mine, but bypassed the old chewed up areas by drilling new holes.

Good idea with the drilling technique. I was very impressed with how well everything lined up afterwards. Not to mention how secure all the assemblies felt.

Thanks
Blake

#48 4 years ago

Replaced a burnt up coil last night for the left flipper. Still worked and tested good ohm wise but it had heated up to the point of choking the sleeve.

Don’t mind the flux residue on the new coil. It got a good cleaning.

Thanks
Blake

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#49 4 years ago
Quoted from Blake:

Replaced a burnt up coil last night for the left flipper. Still worked and tested good ohm wise but it had heated up to the point of choking the sleeve.
Don’t mind the flux residue on the new coil. It got a good cleaning.
Thanks
Blake[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice soldering!

#50 4 years ago
Quoted from Dono:

Nice soldering!

Thanks! Certainly more challenging on 46 year old wires.

Blake

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