Gulfstream
Williams, 1973Getting close to the end on the bottom side mechs. Still have the 3 pops and 2 large bank resets to do. Then its onto cleaning/adjusting switches and relays.
Looking forward to cleaning up the PF art.
Thanks
Blake
IMG_1868 (resized).JPGIMG_1869 (resized).JPGIMG_1871 (resized).JPGIMG_1872 (resized).JPGIMG_1873 (resized).JPGIMG_1874 (resized).JPGIMG_1875 (resized).JPGIMG_1876 (resized).JPGIMG_1877 (resized).JPGIMG_1879 (resized).JPGFinished working on the bottom side of the pop bumpers. Same old story: Gunked up, missing screws, bad adjustments, burnt contacts. Check out the mushroomed skirt stem that comes in contact with the spoon. Note that some parts will be getting replaced when I complete the top side tear down.
Thanks
Blake
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Quoted from Dono:Nice pix! Not sure if you're aware, but PBR has those white ball stops reproduced... I used them on my Gulfstream and really helps those kickout holes pop when the lights are on underneath.
Yes I look forward to putting a nice size list together for Steve. Thanks for letting me know. Very close to turning this PF over and stripping the top side. Really looking forward to that. Still have the two HUGE reset bank coils and assemblies to disassemble and all the switches/relays. I'm excited to power everything back up and see the differences made so far.
Thanks
Blake
Last of the pics from the bottom side playfield. More of the same with gunked up mechs, missing hardware and stripped out screw holes. Sure does look nice now. And will be much easier to work on in the future.
I have reinstalled the playfield and reconfirmed everything is still working appropriately. YAY! This time everything is much snappier as expected. Played a couple games and was pleasantly surprised how fast and great the rule set is. The Add-A-Ball design really drives home the rules too.
But the PF was way to rough to keep playing as is, even with a new ball. So I have stripped the entire topside, right down to nothing. Only the side wood rails and top arch remain. Both of which will probably be coming off at some point for cleaning/refinish.
Topside playfield pics coming soon.
Thanks
Blake
IMG_1939 (resized).JPGIMG_1938 (resized).JPGIMG_1940 (resized).JPGIMG_1941 (resized).JPG60468519472__92E3756F-1E42-4380-8611-DB075FF3CA31 (resized).JPGIMG_1943 (resized).JPGIMG_1919 (resized).JPGIMG_1921 (resized).JPGIMG_1922 (resized).JPGIMG_1934 (resized).JPGIMG_1926 (resized).JPGIMG_1925 (resized).JPG60471367533__7E0AA79B-4B0D-4836-8919-4A7B36EC2AE2 (resized).JPG60471363953__C5C3FCAF-66A0-47A2-B007-0E69402A4787 (resized).JPGTopside pics before and after stripping. I've started the cleaning process with what was obviously a frequent hideout of the mice and probably the dirtiest part of the playfield. The whole area was nearly black and felt like sandpaper even after a thorough vacuuming. Between Naptha and Novus 2 I was able to get some good results and was excited to see and feel that the finish was still intact on this playfield.
The rough spot around the left kick out hole will probably be addressed with bondo. And touchups will most likely be done where needed and then the playfield will have to have a final finish to lock in the new paint and help protect the old. Top steel playfield arch will eventually be removed, sanded, primed and repainted.
But for now its all about cleaning.
Thanks
Blake
IMG_1952 (resized).JPGIMG_1979 (resized).JPGIMG_2001 (resized).JPG60486510714__4B9707E9-5092-459D-B0E9-F18C45B1DE50 (resized).JPGIMG_2043 (resized).JPGIMG_1953 (resized).JPGIMG_2025 (resized).JPGIMG_2026 (resized).JPGIMG_2038 (resized).JPGIMG_2034 (resized).JPGIMG_2035 (resized).JPGIMG_2036 (resized).JPGIMG_2039 (resized).JPGIMG_2049 (resized).JPGIMG_2050 (resized).JPGIMG_2051 (resized).JPGIMG_2052 (resized).JPGQuoted from Peruman:blake --> Are you applying the naphta and novus 2 with a micro-fiber cloth? Curious as to what your cleaning process is. That is a nice job!
Alberto
Thanks.
- Thoroughly vacuum with brush attachment
- Microfiber or other smooth cloth (I've used old cotton T-shirts with great results)
- Naptha several times (apply directly to cloth NOT playfield) rotating to clean spot on cloth until nothing is removed
- Novus 2 (apply to playfield in small areas) rotating to clean spot on cloth until nothing is removed
Naptha works great for old playfields that have wear or planking (most EM's) as it evaporates quickly and is not water based. It doesn't remove paint or the finish. And has no grit. I personally think it helps to prime a rough area that has caked on dirt/grime for the second cleaning using Novus 2. The Novus 2 has a grit to it (hence polishing) and therefore does a good job removing the stuff Naptha can't remove.
After the area is thoroughly cleaned to my liking I use a clean microfiber cloth to wipe off any of the Novus residue and this usually reveals your finish. Of coarse waxing is your next step if you were just cleaning.
Thanks
Blake
Quoted from Dono:Just curious, do you plan on removing those pop surrounds? Mine were pretty chewed up, and then removed. I ended up clearing the PF later so it was necessary step.
Are you talking about the Mylar around the pop bumper skirts? If so mine are surprisingly in good shape with nearly no lifting or paint peel. So I will be leaving them.
Thanks
Blake
Playfield cleaned up very nice. Still has a considerable amount of protection from its original finish. Touch ups will be next on the To Do List.
Thanks
Blake
IMG_2085 (resized).JPGIMG_2087 (resized).JPGIMG_2062 (resized).JPGIMG_2074 (resized).JPGIMG_2082 (resized).JPGIMG_2090 (resized).JPGIMG_2067 (resized).JPGIMG_2075 (resized).JPGIMG_2066 (resized).JPGIMG_2068 (resized).JPGIMG_2073 (resized).JPGIMG_2083 (resized).JPGIMG_2088 (resized).JPGIMG_2092 (resized).JPGIMG_2071 (resized).JPGWhat type of touchup paints are you applying to those areas? Not sure if you know, but just in case, acrylics won't last long at all if not protected with a clearcoat. If no clear is planned, I'd go with Testors or similar enamel.
Your PF looks really nice all cleaned and shiny!
Quoted from Dono:What type of touchup paints are you applying to those areas? Not sure if you know, but just in case, acrylics won't last long at all if not protected with a clearcoat. If no clear is planned, I'd go with Testors or similar enamel.
Your PF looks really nice all cleaned and shiny!
Originally I planned on using acrylics and then putting a clear over the whole playfield. And I agree the enamels are the way to go if not putting a finish on the PF. But now I am leaning toward doing the touch ups and installing a custom playfield protector that a friend of mine has got really good at making.
I've played several machines of his with them installed and they all look and play amazing. From SS to EM's from the 60's and 70's. This will also help with the slight cupping of the inserts. And the fact that this machine and others I'm restoring will end up in my future public arcade, the additional protection will prove invaluable.
Thanks
Blake
Quoted from Dono:Great idea; would love to see a few pix of the protector installed. Keep up the great work on an awesome pin!
I will be sure to post some. Probably be a week or two before that gets done.
Thanks
Blake
Did some cabinet work the other day. Front left joint was pretty bad. Take a look at the linked videos to see where it started and the full process to completion. They are all pretty short. I'm happy how it came out.
Video Links In Order:
Part 1 - https://www.facebook.com/blake.cameron.121/videos/2500524673545494/
Part 2 - https://www.facebook.com/blake.cameron.121/videos/2500584743539487/
Part 3 - https://www.facebook.com/blake.cameron.121/videos/2500644403533521/
Part 4 - https://www.facebook.com/blake.cameron.121/videos/2501375130127115/
Part 5 - https://www.facebook.com/blake.cameron.121/videos/2501414996789795/
Thanks
Blake
IMG_2102 (resized).JPGIMG_2110 (resized).JPGIMG_2111 (resized).JPGIMG_2112 (resized).JPGIMG_2113 (resized).JPGQuoted from Dono:Nice! Can you share any tips for making sure that new leg support bracket lines up perfectly to accept the leg bolt with no binding? I've heard that this can be a bit tricky. Thanks for sharing your vids!
Sorry I missed this.
Yes if you are using a new wood corner brace I simply install with glue and screws if necessary and then drill from the outside in. Staying aware of my angle while using a bit size that provides a little wiggle room. Remembering the screw should not need force to push through and the leg plate threads are what provide the mend between leg and cabinet. With the cabinet corner propped up and exposed you can then screw the bolts into the unmounted plate until secure. Usually at this point you can tell if there is any binding and if the angle of your freshly drilled holes is accurate. If all is good I then screw in my leg bolt plate (if its a screw type) or if an older style that is recessed into the wood brace I then mark my mounting holes and trace out the plate outline so I can remove everything and prep the wood brace.
Hope this helps. New photos of Gulfstream coming very soon!
Blake
Paint touch ups. A good color match is not easy to mix. This won't win any beauty contests. But we blended in the eye sores pretty well. I'm pretty pleased with the outcome considering these were my first touch ups on any playfield.
If interested here is a video with more detail: https://www.facebook.com/blake.cameron.121/videos/2558402674424360/
Thanks
Blake
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Quoted from Dono:Damn good for your first one... I've touched up three Gulfstreams, and it's never got easier... the purple, blue, and skin tone color match is absolutely brutal to get correct. My experience for purple was that a really good color match on one side didn't match the other areas... that purple was extremely subject to fade, and fade differently on different sections. Blue was almost as tough... took me forever to nail it; fortunately I've never had to touch up the bodies of the playfield characters.
Thanks!
I agree 100% on the purple. Took a long time of me failing before I got a good match. Nearly gave up on that color. Skin tone I got after a couple tries and blue was pretty good as well. The fade is definitely what makes them tricky almost putting a transparency on certain areas. And mine was like yours in that the color tones were different depending on which part of the playfield you were looking at. The worst being the white “cream” color. Which in the end I decided would be mostly unseen and so I left it as is.
Thanks
Blake
Quoted from Blake:DIY playfield protector made of very thin PETG plastic. Super clear after film is removed. No more issues with leveling inserts and no need to clear to protect touch ups.
Thanks
Blake
[quoted image]
Do you have a CNC machine or did you hand cut it?
I'm curious as one of my EM's (a Little Chief) could really use one.
Alberto
Quoted from Peruman:Do you have a CNC machine or did you hand cut it?
I'm curious as one of my EM's (a Little Chief) could really use one.
Alberto
All by hand using a small pair of high end scissors (otherwise you get rough edges/bending) and several sets of hole punches. With the hole punches you need a surface that is durable but allows the punch to penetrate. We used 3/4" plywood and had good results. Make sure its not warped or you quickly lose all your force from the give of the wood. Also helps to place the plywood on a hard surface again to minimize the play.
Prep work with your tracing and or measurements is the most important part. Small details that become important to the overall shape of the protector are easily overlooked. Double/triple check your work.
Thanks
Blake
Quoted from Blake:Paint touch ups. A good color match is not easy to mix. This won't win any beauty contests. But we blended in the eye sores pretty well. I'm pretty pleased with the outcome considering these were my first touch ups on any playfield.
If interested here is a video with more detail: https://www.facebook.com/blake.cameron.121/videos/2558402674424360/
Thanks
Blake
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I think you qualify as a dermatologist after cleaning up all the skin cancer on those poor beachgoers. Must be too much sun over the years. 
Nice work!
Quoted from RCA1:I think you qualify as a dermatologist after cleaning up all the skin cancer on those poor beachgoers. Must be too much sun over the years.
Nice work!
Dr. Van Nostrand hard at work.
Thanks
Blake
Upper apron is now finished. Sanded, primed, top coat, sand, second coat.
All other steel apron parts got cleaned, sanded and will get a clear coat.
Thanks
Blake
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All other steel apron parts got cleaned, sanded and will get a clear coat.
Thanks
Blake
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Looks great!
Quoted from Dono:Looks great!
Still some slight pitting visible. And painting outside with the elements (wind/bugs) is starting to grow old. But it’s what I have to work with as of now.
Plan to build a portable paint booth soon.
Thanks
Blake
Playfield protector film has yet to be pulled off so forgive the haziness.
New rollover guides, pop bumper (bodies, skirts, bases, springs, lamp sockets) I forgot to order the rings WTF, full flipper rebuild, rollover buttons, playfield rubber and a freshly restored upper apron. Lower apron to be reassembled next. Followed by plenty of odds and ends, then fine tuning.
Better pics coming soon. Without PF protector film!
Thanks
Blake
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Something you may want to consider. I added cabaret lighting to the top arch. I used amber #44 bulbs along with the amber sleeves. Adds a nice touch to an area that is kind of dark during play. Photos with flash and without.
C7A2099C-608B-4964-89D3-FAAA156BB6B1 (resized).jpegE39DFD07-D919-4FD6-9FC3-39036E07D11E (resized).jpeg01FD3FCC-52C9-408D-A503-DE2DDCB0855C (resized).jpeg6DDEB357-BEB1-4567-B83F-3E834B14F6E8 (resized).jpegQuoted from Mikala:Something you may want to consider. I added cabaret lighting to the top arch. I used amber #44 bulbs along with the amber sleeves. Adds a nice touch to an area that is kind of dark during play. Photos with flash and without.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Hey I like that! Did you have to drill out or use existing holes?
Thanks for sharing.
Blake
Your middle apron already has the holes in it. I drilled the holes in the playfield for the sockets. Wiring was a little tricky, it’s best that you tap into the positive and negative where the lights start under the PF. You can’t just find the nearest light socket and tap into it. You will notice some weird wiring going on under the playfield, some of the sockets are wired backwards for some reason.
Quoted from Mikala:Your middle apron already has the holes in it. I drilled the holes in the playfield for the sockets. Wiring was a little tricky, it’s best that you tap into the positive and negative where the lights start under the PF. You can’t just find the nearest light socket and tap into it. You will notice some weird wiring going on under the playfield, some of the sockets are wired backwards for some reason.
Right on. I'll look into it. Your machine looks very nice.
Thanks
Blake
This one is just about done! Top side is put back together and game is playing 100%. I love Add-A-Ball pins 
Added:
- New flipper button switches
- New kickout housings
- New flipper bats
- #47 bulbs throughout backbox
Cleaned up lower apron (no more sticker residue). Dialed in lane guides. Still need to rebuild chimes and swap in new pop rod and rings. Have new bolts to install on legs. May touch up cab and back box. Video of playfield close up: https://www.facebook.com/100007639562581/videos/2574353502829277/
Thanks
Blake
IMG_3394 (resized).JPGIMG_3398 (resized).JPGIMG_3399 (resized).JPGIMG_3396 (resized).JPGIMG_3397 (resized).JPGIMG_3368 (resized).JPGIMG_3369 (resized).JPGIMG_3374 (resized).JPGIMG_3371 (resized).JPGIMG_3370 (resized).JPGIMG_3372 (resized).JPGIMG_3373 (resized).JPGIMG_3392 (resized).JPGIMG_3393 (resized).JPGIMG_3388 (resized).JPGIMG_3378 (resized).JPGIMG_3382 (resized).JPGIMG_3383 (resized).JPGIMG_3391 (resized).JPGIMG_3385 (resized).JPGIMG_3387 (resized).JPGIMG_3401 (resized).JPGIMG_3402 (resized).JPGLooks great! I did notice your flipper angle is just a bit too steep... I can see the lighter wood color hinting where the flipper alignment should be.
Reason I bring this up is that a steeper flip angle limits center shots and makes the game harder than it was designed to be IMO. I grew up playing Gulfstream, and its the game that got me hooked, so I've played a bevy of them, and have one in my collection today. I remember playing an example years and years ago with a steep angle, and even with timed passes and bounce-overs, the center target was much more brutal than designed, limiting the fun factor. Don't get me wrong, I love a game set on conservative settings, and my example is set brutally hard, with a steep playfield angle, and I actually moved the posts next to the center target even closer than the most conservative setting.
I like your treatment of the SPECIAL insert lights... what type of lamp did u use for the green?
Quoted from Dono:Looks great! I did notice your flipper angle is just a bit too steep... I can see the lighter wood color hinting where the flipper alignment should be.
Reason I bring this up is that a steeper flip angle limits center shots and makes the game harder than it was designed to be IMO. I grew up playing Gulfstream, and its the game that got me hooked, so I've played a bevy of them, and have one in my collection today. I remember playing an example years and years ago with a steep angle, and even with timed passes and bounce-overs, the center target was much more brutal than designed, limiting the fun factor. Don't get me wrong, I love a game set on conservative settings, and my example is set brutally hard, with a steep playfield angle, and I actually moved the posts next to the center target even closer than the most conservative setting.
I like your treatment of the SPECIAL insert lights... what type of lamp did u use for the green?
I believe you 100% when you say you played this pin a lot because your description of how hard it is to hit the center target is dead on. Great observation and thank you for pointing it out. I will be changing them.
I’m not sure what you’re talking about with the inserts but all of the bulbs used on the machine were #47 bayonet incandescent.
You may have some good insight into this as well. Flipper bounce back. I’m assuming you know exactly what I’m taking about owning this era of Williams EM.
Flipper in upright cradle position. Ball strikes end of bat and engages the power winding of the coil sending the ball flying up the playfield.
On my Gulfstream it pushes the ball pretty far (ave. 6-10”). I have read many places where this is the behavior of the this era’s mechs. What are your thoughts and how is your machine in regards to this behavior?
I have done the following:
- new coil stop, spring, link, pawl, sleeve, EOS, bats/shafts, flipper button switches
- EOS gapped at 1/8” at very end of stroke
- Flipper button switches gapped 1/8”
- One coil is brand new. Resoldered all connections on each coil.
- installed spring washers behind coils
- played around with tension of spring on plunger. No change
- spent some time aligning plunger/coil stop for good seating. (Need to spend more time on this)
I still get buzzing. Which again sounds like is a result of A/C powered flippers. 60 cycles/second of back and forth results in vibration and hence the buzzing noise.
It sounds like this can be minimized by alignments and EOS positioning.
So am I crazy for looking into this further? Does your Gulfstream perform the same way?
My flippers are very powerful too note.
Thanks
Blake
Quoted from Blake:I believe you 100% when you say you played this pin a lot because your description of how hard it is to hit the center target is dead on. Great observation and thank you for pointing it out. I will be changing them.
I’m not sure what you’re talking about with the inserts but all of the bulbs used on the machine were #47 bayonet incandescent.
You may have some good insight into this as well. Flipper bounce back. I’m assuming you know exactly what I’m taking about owning this era of Williams EM.
Flipper in upright cradle position. Ball strikes end of bat and engages the power winding of the coil sending the ball flying up the playfield.
On my Gulfstream it pushes the ball pretty far (ave. 6-10”). I have read many places where this is the behavior of the this era’s mechs. What are your thoughts and how is your machine in regards to this behavior?
I have done the following:
- new coil stop, spring, link, pawl, sleeve, EOS, bats/shafts, flipper button switches
- EOS gapped at 1/8” at very end of stroke
- Flipper button switches gapped 1/8”
- One coil is brand new. Resoldered all connections on each coil.
- installed spring washers behind coils
- played around with tension of spring on plunger. No change
- spent some time aligning plunger/coil stop for good seating. (Need to spend more time on this)
I still get buzzing. Which again sounds like is a result of A/C powered flippers. 60 cycles/second of back and forth results in vibration and hence the buzzing noise.
It sounds like this can be minimized by alignments and EOS positioning.
So am I crazy for looking into this further? Does your Gulfstream perform the same way?
My flippers are very powerful too note.
Thanks
Blake
Not exactly sure that I understand what your flips are doing... could you attach a short video?
Quoted from Dono:Not exactly sure that I understand what your flips are doing... could you attach a short video?
Its basically exactly whats happening on this MET but not for the same reason obviously.
I have read topics about it and many say its normal for Williams EM of this era. Some find it on other makes such as Gottlieb too. But Williams seems to be the worst culprit.
Thanks
Blake
Quoted from Redfive05:This machine looks amazing! I think it came out better than the Gulfstream I restored!
Do you have pics or a link? Love to see other Gulfstreams and EM restores.
Thanks
Blake
Quoted from Silverstreak02:Your game looks great. I have a Williams Space Mission that has the same flipper problem that you described. I did all the same things you mentioned with no results. I live with it.
Thats what I have been finding. A select few say it isn't normal but the overwhelming vote which includes quite a few hardcore EM guys, says its the mech design and the fact they are A/C powered.
Thanks
Blake
Quoted from Blake:Do you have pics or a link? Love to see other Gulfstreams and EM restores.
Thanks
Blake
Naw, I’ll just hijack your thread. I show the mods I have done to my machine. Starting with the “special lights”, I put green 44’s under each one. This colors up the playfield much better than standard clear, plus it makes it easier for me to teach people how to play the game.
8B717EBA-85FB-443E-9AC8-CC2DBBB9AC2F (resized).jpegI already mentioned how I added the amber cabaret lighting, I also added a light under each saucer with a red 44 that turns on when you complete three in a row. In addition, I put blinking 455‘s under each arrow pointing at the saucers and red 44’s in the special inlane arrows. You won’t be sorry if you do this.
8BE4589D-4B92-48B4-8990-E99E4E230FE8 (resized).jpegQuoted from Blake:Do you have pics or a link? Love to see other Gulfstreams and EM restores.
Thanks
Blake
Here's My Restoration: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-gulfstream-restored-for-pintastic-2017
I did the same thing as Mikala and added a light under each saucer with a red 44 that turns on when you complete three in a row, and the green 44’s inside the bumper caps. I wish I had thought to put green lamps in the special rollover lamps.... that's a really nice touch.
If I could go back and change something about that restoration I would have used a pastel green or like a sea foam green card stock for the instruction cards instead of that bright neon green.
~Jeff
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Vergennes, VT