On some machines the credit unit must have zero credits on it before the lockout coil energizes.

It should be controlled by your credit relay,which contains a N.C. leaf switch ,that influences the coin lockout ,according to how it is listed on one of my similiar vintage manual/schematics.
Hope this helps.
Good luck,EM-Pinman

Clean the contacts.

Excellent its alive ,always fun fixing multiple symptoms at one time and then getting rewarded with good game to boot following all those fixes.

Just got a bunch of 3 prong cords the other week so I changed out a shorter one I had on a pin to a longer 7 footer which is plenty compared to my previous 3 footer 3 prong but at the time I put it in that was all I had ,still better than the former 2 pronger though.

Enjoy the Gulfstream.

IMG_2329.JPG

I always pick up the 14' ones from PBR.

Got one from there ^^^ nice quality and the price isnt too bad either.

I got those for free from a fellow Pinballer my brother knows in NJ. (only needed 2 gave me 8, nice!)
7 feet is fine as long as you have properly spaced electrical outlets otherwise the 14 is a good option.

If you ever need cords go to your local elecronics depot aka: local town electronic recycling center and grab them from an old computer.
Just lop of the end.

They are usually 18g SJ rated which is good.
No need to worry on the gauge size as it would have to draw as shown in the Voltage Drop Calculator before there is a problem:

Voltage Drop Calculator -> http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

12 feet @ 15 a draw would just fall under the 2% rule!

After my new cord install I went to check the draw on reset and got -> No where near overload!

IMG_2400.JPG

When you replace the two conductor power cords on your EM's with a grounded cord, do you attach the machine common to the ground wire? Curious what you do before I change out all mine.

So....was the broken wire on the jones plug the coin lockout coil problem?

Still no luck on the coin lockout then? On Klondike, it is energized by the Replay unit zero position switch.

When you replace the two conductor power cords on your EM's with a grounded cord, do you attach the machine common to the ground wire? Curious what you do before I change out all mine.

First get a good pair of strippers.
No not those.

Makes it easier to do the job. Not mandatory the other plier stripper style works too!

On your replacement plug like you are going to plug it in to an outlet , from the outlet perspective you have three slots ,hot ,neutral,and ground.
the one on the right assuming the ground slot is an the bottom,just like a smiley face,the left wider slot is neutral the right narrower slot is the hot.
Check for continuity with a meter so as to put the wires in the correct positions.

On image #2064 #2065 I put the ground wire (green) on the tranformers frame ,run the hot to the fuse,and the neutral to the transformer terminal Neutral tap.
Then for grounding other items such as the relay bank(#2064),coin door,and other potential shock hazards you run wire from the frame of the transformer or * note* some machines have a common ground point set up on them too ,just connect to the proper place that works for you using ring terminals for your Grd connection is good option.

Then connect your new cord ,solder, wirenuts ,ect . then use either shrink wrap or electrical tape ,use 3M brand 88 as the quality is better than the cheena stuff! use the cheena stuff to bundle the wires together.
Use wire clamps to hold the wire fast to the cabinet. #2398 last pic ,this was soldered to pig tails of wire so that pic is a different pin! * note in-line fuse because I used that for the run to the front of the pin for a switch I installed,basically the hot comes in on the cord I splice it to a cut to size 2 wire extension cord zip tie it to the harness connect to the switch then connect to the hot load wire to the pin.

Good to go.

Sorry for the hi-jack EM-Pinman
Now back to the regular scheduled program.

IMG_2384.JPG Go_Go!.jpg IMG_2064_Ground_terminal.JPG IMG_2065_New_cord.JPG IMG_2398.JPG

So if my machine has a common ground point, Attaching the power cord ground to the transformer frame is good enough?

I would ground the frame of the transformer as it would not hurt even if you have a common Gnd point.
Overkill?
Look at it this way its not a bad habit to get into.

To ^^^ use as a ground to emerge from ? Yes I would consider it a good place to start
your Ground as it is easier because all the wires terminate in the same general area which helps with the install.

Unless your transformer has a crappy metal attachment and not up to par for a ground.

Ground it anyway , just in case your transformer decides to go death row electric chair style!

Thanks!

Curious what you find. And for more clarification of the purpose of the coin lockout coil. For me it is just a noise maker. My machines didn't even have coin mechs when I got them so I have the replay unit set to free play.

If it disengages when power is off so someone who drops a coin ends up getting it back then it makes sense for it to engage when there are 0 credits (so a coin can be added to start a game). But as soon as there are more than 0 credits the coil disengages again? Why would williams bother printing a credit wheel that goes up to 30 or more credits then? Other than earning a replay, how could you put extra credits on the machine? I have to have something wrong here, right?

There is a metal bar that when the coil releases it it makes sure the coin bypasses the trip to the cash box and sends it to the return.
With no credits it has no reason to stay engaged.

Besides imagine someone walking up to a machine that is out of order/off and dropping a coin then getting ripped off!
They probably beat the hell out of the machine to get their money back so i guess someone figured we better come out with something to prevent this from happening.
Look at some of the old coin doors.

Maybe they made so many it made sense to use them and not produce ones with lower credit amounts.

still doesnt answer my question about extra credits. Could you plunge coin after coin to load the game up with multiple credits? I don't see how this works if the coin lock coil releases once a credit is added to the replay unit.

Doesnt really matter I guess but just curious.

Yes you can^^ especially if its 3 games for a quarter and you want to hog the game for yourself plus dont forget multi-players can add it up quick.

No its quite the opposite, When the machine is on the coil holds the bar to allow coins to pass thru into the cash box awarding credit,but when a machine is powered off there is nothing holding the coil anymore therefore the bar moves to a position forcing coins to go in the return.
I hope I did not confuse you.
I prefer it off for home use and I hate the buzzing too.

The lockout coil only buzzes from dirt or mechanical linkage binding. If it is buzzing, it should be serviced. A properly working lockout coil and linkage is whisper quiet.

I agree ^^^ but I prefer to neuter it. I have mine set for free play so no need for me ,but the coin mechs are still operational ,plus less on the electrical draw.

Did not know that ^^^ I guess every manufacture had a way to do there things.

So we are all correct! Just have different machines in front of us...

Its purpose is, as stated in this thread, to return coins while the machine is off or resetting or maxed out credit reel. It is controlled by cam one on the score motor.

Right, thank you for this thread on the Williams Coin Lockout! I am working on our Straight Flush (single player) and it only engages the coin lockout coil on 'zero'. I just replaced the door (the previous was a hot mess) and on the 'new' door I had to replace the coin lockout bar and coil. It had been previously disabled to always be engaged by 'bending' the bar to keep coins going into the cash box :-/

So after all that repair, I was like 'WTF'! Why will it only work at 'zero'! What a waste of a Reply wheel LOL - though perhaps a player could rack up 37 free games (serious doubt it).