1973 Hee Haw Chicago Coin issues

0

#1 8 years ago

OP

EAC

Genotyype

Pinside member

8y 19,000 35 27

I never thought I would own a pinball machine...until a relative of mine showed up on my doorstep a few months back with one in tow. It's a Chicago Coin Hee Haw. He said he didn't know much about it, and it wouldn't start up when he got it.

To make a long story short, I've read a lot about how to repair the machine, and I've done a lot of the standard stuff already (changed out the rubbers, fixed up the flippers, cleaned the playfield, installed new lamps, tested the fuses, etc). I'm at a point, however, where there are several issues that I really don't know how to fix. Since I'm completely new to this I'll try my best to describe what's going on.

Issue #1: The machine wouldn't reset the scoring reels when I turned it on. I worked on all of the reels, de-gunked them, and now both players 1 and 3 (on the same relay) will basically reset. Players 2 and 4, however, will not (also on the same relay). If I operate the relay for players 2 and 4 by hand when the machine is on, they will step back one at a time until they are fully reset. So the question is why won't the relay fire to reset them?

Issue #2: Sometimes when I turn the machine on to play, everything works. Other times, the following items will not work: Bumpers lighting, 1000 point when lit bulb (front center target), ball saver popping up between the flippers, and the match lighting up at the end of the game. For whatever reason, if one of those isn't working, none of them work. If one is working, all of them work. If they work it's usually when I first turn the machine on and lasts for the first game or two that I play. It never seems to "come back" the longer the machine is on.

Issue #3a: Neither the 100 point or 1000 point score reel works on player 1. When I tested the coils (which were both black), one read somewhere around 1 ohm and the other did not read at all (all the other coils read somewhere in the neighborhood of 5-6). The previous owner looks like they knew about the issue but decided to disconnect several wires from the reel instead of changing the coil. How can I figure out which wires go back where? Additionally, I have purchased two replacement coils (looked up the proper numbers, etc.) and have them in hand ready to replace. Is it ok to solder them in now even though some of the wires are disconnected from the reel?

Issue #3b: None of the 100-point reels work on any of the other players either. All of them have disconnected wires. So this is a repeat question of 3a. Additionally, the bumpers that register at 10 points each on player 1 register at 1000 points each on player two, so I'm guessing some wires are really wrong.

Any assistance you can give me would be wonderful. Remember, I'm new to this, so I probably won't understand what you're telling me to do at first, so expect some questions. Also let me know if you need pictures and/or video of something specific and I'll do my best.

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#2 8 years ago

KES

scokes

Inactive member

Centerton, AR

8y 18,400 157 1

I have sent you a PM with a couple of questions. maybe I can help a little bit, but I'm fairly new at this too.

the score reel reset issue - first thing, turn the game on so that the scores need to reset. walk around back while the score motor is running and see if the coil is energizing at all. If so, then it is going to be a switch adjustment issue where they may not be close enough to make contact unless you manually press it (more pressure coming from your manual presses). If not then it will fall back on the score motor itself. I don't have schematics, but there is logic in the switches. look at the blade arrangement on a few switches and notice the difference between the long and short blade placements. This will show you the difference between NO and NC ("normally open" and "normally closed") now closely inspect all the switches. if you see anything out of place, make the adjustment.

also while you're at it, inspect all the switches throughout the table closely. this will fix most problems right off the bat.

when it comes to the lighting, try moving the bulbs around a bit. On these old machines they don't always make good contact. a good cleaning will help.

the score reels that don't work will not work until the coils are replaced. you'll be fine to solder them in without the other wires attached. they may not work, but the coil is the first step.

I'm sure others will chime in to either correct or back me up... keep me updated on the progess and we can move on to the other issues if they do not get resolved.

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#3 8 years ago

OP

EAC

Genotyype

Pinside member

8y 19,000 35 27

So a quick update...

I soldered in the new coils on the 100 and 1000 point score reels for player one. There are still wires disconnected from each, however, player 1 now scores 1000 points on most places that he should (like the bonus), and nothing scores on the 100 reel. However, both reels move when I reset the machine now, so that's a step in the right direction.

I'm still baffled by the mysterious "lite red bumper / lite blue bumper / ball saver / 1000 points when lit" either all working or none working at random. The only thing I can seem to find in common with them is that all of them (except the 1000 when lit) are on the relay bank next to each other. I've tried filing down the contacts on anything that looks like it could possibly go to those items, and still no luck.

Also, I still cannot get the player 2 and 4 reset relay to fire on its own (although it does still work if I touch it manually when the machine is on). Any help will still be much appreciated.

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#4 8 years ago

OP

EAC

Genotyype

Pinside member

8y 19,000 35 27

So based on some photos I received, I soldered the wires back to where I think they belong on the 100-point relay for player 1. The 100-point relay still will not score for any of the four players. So, upon further inspection, when something that's supposed to ring up as 100 points is activated, the 100-900 relay fires, the chime for scoring 100 points rings out, but nothing moves. By manually adjusting the individual switches (on both the 10 and 1000 point relays, which appear to work the same), I have determined that the first set of switches on the right (blue arrow) controls the chime and the second set from the right is supposed to move the scoring reel (red arrow). both relays.jpg] I tried cleaning the contacts on the blue arrow, however, I am still not getting any score reel to move for 100 points. I have included the best pictures I could take for both the left and right side of that switch (see below). Is it possible that the switch is just too corroded to work? Is it more likely that something is still wired wrong? Any suggestions would be great. [att=2668700,559563 caption="left.jpg
"left side"

right.jpg
"right side"

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#5 8 years ago

OP

EAC

Genotyype

Pinside member

8y 19,000 35 27

The left side didn't post for some reason, so here it is:

left.jpg

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#6 8 years ago

KES

scokes

Inactive member

Centerton, AR

8y 18,400 157 1

OP
Quoted from Genotyype:
So a quick update...
I'm still baffled by the mysterious "lite red bumper / lite blue bumper / ball saver / 1000 points when lit" either all working or none working at random. The only thing I can seem to find in common with them is that all of them (except the 1000 when lit) are on the relay bank next to each other. I've tried filing down the contacts on anything that looks like it could possibly go to those items, and still no luck.

What about the bonus unit? might be an issue there. I know that controls the lite red and blue bumpers based on the feature wheel. I haven't gotten much playtime with my partially working table since it has no rubber rings on it. I will take a look at my table tonight and see if there is any conjunction between those particular relays.

For the score reel, have you tried using jumper wires to test 100 reel coil? use two and go from the 10pt coil to the 100pt coil. now when actuating the 10pt relay both coils should fire off.

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#7 8 years ago

???

Dr_of_Style

Inactive member

Dallas, TX

9y 28,925 1,334 12

Hey Genotyype .
Those relay contacts are F.R.I.E.D !!!
You are lucky your gettin any life out of that thing at all.
That being said, Heres the scoop...
Something stuck on, and burned everything from the "stuck switch", to the score reel coil.
Somebody tried to "fix" it, and removed some wires, and then left it.
So, here you are, stuck with the aftermath of a bad effort.
Without schematics, and prob a few picks from someone who has one, ...well...
Starting with those 100 and 1000 point relays, measure the coils, they look burned.
Then get yourself some new switch blades and contacts. your gonna need to replace all the burned ones.
You say the reels do step, good, for now... if they have eos switches, make sure they work.
That reset relay thats not workin, is prob controlled by a switch on the score motor, "look for a burned one". That will need help also.
And the RESET relay too, burned contacts. That will get your reset workin.
scokes has you lined up for the feature stuff.
Good luck!
When you get this one done, the hairs you have left, will be pure wisdom.

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#8 8 years ago

RM

rolf_martin_062

Inactive member

Aarau

9y 59,550 4,150 14 8

Hi Genotype
100 points relay / 1000 points relay do fire - but no action on the score-Reels ? In the schema "Stage Coach" I see a unit called "Player Control" - the relays close a swicth - and this unit let the current flow to Player-1 / -2 / -3 / -4. THERE could be the fault.
I (also) cry for a schematic and then would like to to a "Start a game" as (example) Gottliebs: http://user.xmission.com/~daina/tips/pub/emTips.html . It is OK to try to bring the HEE HAW back to (some) live using these (pretty) burnt contacts. Greetings Rolf

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#9 8 years ago

KES

scokes

Inactive member

Centerton, AR

8y 18,400 157 1

issue 3A from original post you state that you already have the new replacement coils. Why not go ahead and throw them in the machine?

Unscrew the Player Control Unit and lay over on side. take of the nut holding the wiper arms to the board. (make note of wiper position with sharpie) Sometimes there are broken traces that you can't see with the wiper arms still attached. Clean with very fine sandpaper and rubbing alcohol. I had to fix two traces on mine. temp fix was using foil tape. I have copper tape coming tomorrow.

heehaw-pcu.jpg

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#10 8 years ago

???

jdapolito

Pinside+ Frequent

Youngstown, OH

9y 31,800 499 15

to get the bonus feature s you need to clean the unit behind the ball count unit.my wasn't working either until i cleaned it and the coil sleeve and selenoid.this unit rotates continuously until a ball goes into a kickout hole this then sends an impulse to the coil on the unit which fires and pushes a "brake" against the large wheel on this unit with teeth,this stops the unit from rotating ,a blade on the unit makes contact with the appropriate feature and sends the impulse to the corresponding switch relay in the row of relays on the rt of the underside of the playfield . after i cleaned my unit up it worked well .
ill look at my hundred point relay and see how its wired,unless you are sure yours is wired correctly,if cleaning the player unit doesn't help

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#11 8 years ago

KES

scokes

Inactive member

Centerton, AR

8y 18,400 157 1

Thanks for chiming in Jim. I sent pics of mine but all of my backbox wires are bleached out to the point of no recognition. Maybe you will be able to help verify that his are in the right location.

20150904_232817.jpg

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#12 8 years ago

OP

EAC

Genotyype

Pinside member

8y 19,000 35 27

Wow, so many great replies! Thank you guys! It's a busy week for me so I probably won't get to test any of this out until the weekend, but it's got some great go-to ideas!

Scokes - I was looking for something that connects all of those items, and I didn't know that the bonus unit would. I can try cleaning the contacts there and see if it makes a difference or not. As for the jumper cables, I don't currently have any made up, but I'm working with Rolf to try to get some made. Again, that's just a matter of time to go to the store, get what I need, and try to create them.

Also, as for the coils, I bought new coils for the 100 reel and the 1000 reel for player one, since neither of them were working (and both were way out of line when tested using a multimeter). After reading earlier advice, I did replace both of those coils, and now both reels reset during the start-up sequence (and the 1000 reel seems to be correctly scoring 1000 point hits from the playfield as well). I do not have any other coils that, while still attached to the machine, tested way off from other coils that have a similar model #, and therefore did not order replacements for any others.

Additionally, what might the player control unit have to do in the grand scheme of things here?

Dr of style - I have the schematics! I would upload them here if I knew how to get a picture of something so massive through my scanner...or should I just take multiple pictures with my camera? I'm not sure how other digital schematics are uploaded as one complete picture. I also have the manual as well.

When I started working on this machine, those contacts were stuck closed (and particularly bad was the one I show in the photos above). The coils for the 100 and 1000 point scoring reels for player one were charred black, with both having the plastic piece inside the coil completely melted. One actually took me over an hour of chiseling and dremel work to remove it from the plunger! So what you're saying sounds exactly right...the previous owner just cut wires instead of fixing the issue. Luckily, I've been working with Scokes to get photos of where the score reels should be resoldered back on, and I think I'm almost there. In terms of measuring the relays, they test about the same as similar relays, but I tested them in the machine. I read somewhere that I may need to de-solder them to accurately test the resistance. Can you comment on that?

Can you point me in the direction of where I might acquire some new (used?) switch blades and contacts? I read a little into that one and there are discussions over silver contacts vs. tungsten?

I checked the score motor, and it only references reset relay 1; the one that's not working is reset relay 2. Which leads me to believe that possibly the coil just needs to be replaced there? I can take some pictures for you to see the connections if that helps. Also when the machine goes through its startup, the player 1 and 3 reset relay fires away, resetting all those coils, whereas the player 2 and 4 does not. If I move the 2 & 4 player relay with my hand while it's in that reset mode, all of the reels on players 2 and 4 will move like they are supposed to. If i keep hitting it by hand, they will continue to move until reset to the normal starting positions and the game starts up. Again, that's why I'm wondering if it's possibly the coil? Or would the could have to be "good" in order for the reels to move?

Rolf - The 1000 point relay fires as it should, and the score reels now move on all 4 players like they should when it does (I just had to replace the one coil for player one). The 100 point relay fires (I can see it move and I hear the 100-point tone), but the score reel does not move. It does not move for any player (1, 2, 3, or 4). All other score reels seem to be working fine for all four players now. I'll also take some suggestions if you have them about how to upload the schematic.

0

#13 8 years ago

OP

EAC

Genotyype

Pinside member

8y 19,000 35 27

jdapolito, you jumped in as I was typing my monster response there. I was actually looking at the constantly-moving unit you're describing last night to see if there was some way it might be the cause. I know it's constantly spinning, which causes that "bonus" to constantly move on the playfield. I could see the unit stop by hitting that "brake" every time I manually operated one of those kick-out holes. I couldn't see how it was directly connected to the relays, but all of the issues I mentioned that are intermittent are all activated via that bonus wheel. I wasn't sure that was it, though, because the other two options that can come up (advance the bonus and open the bottom gate) work 100% of the time when they come up, no matter how long the machine is on or how many times I play it. I will try to clean all of the connections where the fingers are constantly spinning and see if it makes a difference.

0

#14 8 years ago

KES

scokes

Inactive member

Centerton, AR

8y 18,400 157 1

My misunderstanding on 3a. I was thinking of the 10 and 100 point relays, not the score reel coils. Point clarified.

I always test coils with power off which 90% of the time will give you an acurate reading however, i can see how desoldering will work in any other instance where it may be tried to another coil (say an energized hold relay) test soldered dirst and thwn if you have doubt, desolder (example, obvious burned coils giving good results)

You asked about the player control unit's grand scheme. Short answer.... Everything. Because it is a multiplayer game, everything goes through it. Especially scoring because the machine needs to know which player gets the points. Clean clean clean. Check for continuity between traces and the lugs. Etc...
I will look at the pic in my thread regarding score motor cams to find the switch that activates the reset relays. Its either not getting good connection or the 2-4 reset coil is fried.

Patience is key. We'll get there... Eventually.
It's funny how oftentimes when these problems are solved we look back and say "damn, why didn't i think of that before"

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#15 8 years ago

RM

rolf_martin_062

Inactive member

Aarau

9y 59,550 4,150 14 8

Hi Genotype +
in this post I only write about "making a copy of the schematic" - to show in pinside.com - or (please do) "donate a copy to ipdb.org".

Steve Young does not allow ipdb to show Gottlieb material - so do not donate Gottlieb Schemas / Manuals. To make a donation to ipdb (Schemas / Manuals they do not have) - simply use this button (in ipdb, beeing on a specific pin): "Submit Changes" - this button is far to the right of the name of the pin. Use this button -> (they will guide You) -> add Your EMail-address (for possible questions) - thats it. It will take weeks until ipdb shows Your donation. ipdb.org will NOT BOTHER YOU (sending advertisement / giving away Your EMail-Adress). You simply help, so we (all) can look-up a schema / Manual in ipdb ...

In ipdb.org there are a few "BMP-Format" schemas shown. Some schemas are shown in JPG-Format (one picture) - maybe (overlapping a bit) two pictures for a schema. Many schemas are shown "PDF-paginated" - deluxe is "one PDF (one page) showing the complete schema".

I have a cheap camera producing JPG-pictures. I tried, but the result is: I can see the lines in the schema - but NOT the text (maybe my camera is to cheap or I am to stupid to use my camera (?)).

So this is my way: The shopping-Center nearby has a nice copier - I can copy and printout that paper in the size*** "Double-Letter-Format (two pages of Letter-Format put side by side, long-sides touching). I make copies of the schema (overlapping) - the button for "brighter <-> darker" copy a bit towards "darker" -> with a scissor I cut the resulting paper to make the horizontal lines (in the schema) as horizontal as possible. That wonderful copier can do: Making a copy of "Double-Letter-Format" AND PRINT-OUT (the result, half of size) Letter-Format. These papers I can scan at home making PDF's or BMP's (I might want to use MS-Paint to clean out dirt-marks in BMP's). I use a free web-service*** to produce a "PDF-paginated" to donate to ipdb.org.

Free web-service***: I made a google-Search for / with: BMP to PDF - or: PDF to BMP - or: PDF to JPG -> I can make a paginated PDF. If ipdb.org has a "Manual-AND-Schema in one" - example: http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/438/Bally_1976_Capt_Fantastic_and_The_Brown_Dirt_Cowboy_German_Manual.pdf I use the free service to take apart the data into single pages and extract the wanted SCHEMA (to be seen on (ipdb-manual) pages 25 to 31). Greetings Rolf

P.S.: "ipdb-Captn-Fantastic": Maybe (page-17) You want to learn: "Bonusrueckstellschrittwerkrelais" is the "Bonus Unit Reset Solenoid" ? Then complain: "relais" is relay - do they actually mean Bonus Score RELAY ...
Also nice (page-20) and good to know: "Top Bumper Lite" is: "Obereschlagturmbeleuchtung".

P.P.S Size***: a yard is a bit more than 0.9 meter. An international yard equals 0.9144 meter, a survey yard equals 0.91440183 meter.
One meter has 10 dezimeter has 100 centimeter has 1000 millimeter (mm).
Letter-Format is 216x279 mm. Our A4-Format is 210x297 mm - a bit narrow but a bit longer. A3 is twice the size of A4. I do all my work using A3 -> A4 -> in the end transfoming into "Format-Letter".

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#16 8 years ago

RM

rolf_martin_062

Inactive member

Aarau

9y 59,550 4,150 14 8

Hi Genotype
"The 100-Point-Relay fires - but no Score-Reel steps" - I look in the schema of "Stage Coach" -> F-2 / -3,4,5 -> a so callec "Player Control #2" routes the current to the appropriate Score-Reel (of Player-in-Play) - one for the single points / one for the 10-Points / one for the 100-points. So look for that Player-Unit, watch the working path and clean contacts and look for broken-off wires.

"Reset problems" - I look -> schema-E/F/G/G-18: There are "Score Reset Control Relay", "Score Reset Relay", "Score Reset Relay #1" and "... #2" - relays moving, contacts clean, wires soldered-on ? Greetings Rolf

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#17 8 years ago

???

Dr_of_Style

Inactive member

Dallas, TX

9y 28,925 1,334 12

scokes has you on the right path for testin those coils. If you have doubts, replace, it cant hurt.
Blades can be had from PBResource. may not match perfectly, but you can work with them. "cut to length etc".
Higher quality points last longer. I have had to modify a few. points need to be "riveted" on to blades, hammer on wood block works good. it is not hard. the spacing, can be tougher, "different lengths etc." if you have doubts, get a couple different types.
sounds like you are gonna be flippin in no time!
Good luck

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#18 8 years ago

???

jdapolito

Pinside+ Frequent

Youngstown, OH

9y 31,800 499 15

i will post a pic of the wires to the 100's score relay
also since the only bonus features that aren't working are the lights on the bumpers could it be the bulbs are out in the bumpers or not making good contact ? ,just a thought. i usually get tripped up by overlooking the obvious ,

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#19 8 years ago

???

Dr_of_Style

Inactive member

Dallas, TX

9y 28,925 1,334 12

Quoted from jdapolito:
could it be the bulbs are out in the bumpers or not making good contact ?

Yup

0

#20 8 years ago

OP

EAC

Genotyype

Pinside member

8y 19,000 35 27

So I finally got some time today to work on the machine again (and probably won't again until next weekend). Anyway, I have some great updates!

First, the intermittent bumpers lighting/ball saver going up/1000 when lit light - issue seems to be resolved! I cleaned the contacts on the "flash-o-matic" unit, as it's called, as recommended and I have not run into any issues since. So I"m going to call this issue fixed unless it starts acting up again.

The score reset relay for players 2 & 4, which was not firing, is now finally firing! After not seeing it listed in the score motor descriptions, I decided to carefully review the schematic. It was listed in the schematic as...either c6 or e6. At any rate, cleaned that contact, and it's now working as it should.

So the main issue that remains, that I made no progress with, is the 100-point (100-900) relay. It still fires whenever I hit something on the playfield that should score 100 points, it still rings the chime when it does, but it won't turn the score reel. It doesn't matter which player I'm on, it still won't score it. I have an email into pinball resource about getting some replacement relays/contacts, so hopefully I can try that route by next weekend. Is there anything else I can use to test it while I'm waiting? Also, I tried to take some pictures of the schematic, and I'm not sure how they'll upload, but I'll give it a try if that will help.

0

#21 8 years ago

OP

EAC

Genotyype

Pinside member

8y 19,000 35 27

top to bottom, 5 pictures:

1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg4.jpg5.jpg

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#22 8 years ago

???

jdapolito

Pinside+ Frequent

Youngstown, OH

9y 31,800 499 15

Not sure if this helps or not .you may already have this info but here is a picture of how my 100 and 1000 point relays are wired maybe your wiring is off.

IMG_20150910_220449234.jpg

0

#23 8 years ago

RM

rolf_martin_062

Inactive member

Aarau

9y 59,550 4,150 14 8

Hi Genotype
great, You made progress. About "100-Point-Relay fires - but no Score-Reel (of the players) fires" - I refer to my post-16 -> watch the working 10-point-issue -> gently pull on every single wire in question. Wires can brake-off --- but (beeing stiff) they look like "soldered-on". As You have a schema: We could start "jumpering" parts of the wiring "here there SHOULD be a connection - lets put a jumper to have "connection GARANTEED"". Write if You want to "Search for the fault using Jumper-Cables". Greetings Rolf

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#24 8 years ago

OP

EAC

Genotyype

Pinside member

8y 19,000 35 27

OK Rolf, the weekend is finally here, and I'm ready to start up again. Suggestions on testing this out using the jumper cables would be appreciated.

0

#25 8 years ago

RM

rolf_martin_062

Inactive member

Aarau

9y 59,550 4,150 14 8

Hi Genotype
Here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/using-schematics-and-8-foot-jumper-wires a topic about using Jumper-Wires.

Your problem is: The 1000-points Score-Reels do reset - when playing (after the Reset) the 1000-point-relay does fire - BUT NO SCORE-REEL TURNS. (Do I remember right ?)

The first picture (Your post-21): I can not read it - we need a better picture - maybe want to scan just that part of the schema ?
I have taken the schema "Cinema, ipdb.org" and show what we should look for (in Hee Haw schema). It also is not of good quality - just to show "What to look for":

(Ten-Points) "Red lines": the connection for the Reset. "Green lines": the connection for scoring. I see a "Switch on Game-Over-Relay, must be securely closed", I see a "Switch on 10-point-relay (must be securely closed", I see a "wiper on Player-Control Unit, must make contact", I see wires (also drawn green, must be soldered-on, shall not be broken inside the insulation (of the wire)).

Thousand-Points "Blue rectangles": I marked the text informing about "Color of wires". "Curved blue line": Unplug the 110VAC Main-cord (Safety reason) -> clip-on one side of a jumper-wire onto the "Lug on 1000-point-score-reel-player-1" (the color of the "wire solderd-on onto that lug" is shown in the schema). Carefully lay the long Jumper wire -> -> -> the 1000-point-relay: there. Have the other end of the Jumper wire NEAR that relay NOT TOUCHING ANYTHING.
Plug-in the 110VAC -> start a game -> reset is done -> You are ready to play (player-1-ball-1): carefully take the end of the Jumper wire (HOLD THE INSULATED WIRE, NOT the blank metal-clip) and touch the blank metal to "One side of "Switch on 1000 point-relay" - then try the other side on that switch. With this You are bypassing a lot (connecting wires / Player control Unit)

If the Score-Reel of player-1 shows no reaction: Please report, we then do jumpering on another place (from transformer to that switch - please: first write).
If the Score-Reel of player-1 shows reaction (it fires): (My JPG-Pic) "Yellow curved lines" show places to put Jumper wires: Looking for "wire has broken inside of insulation-of-this-wire". Greetings Rolf
CINEMA-wiring-Work.jpg

0

#26 8 years ago

OP

EAC

Genotyype

Pinside member

8y 19,000 35 27

Well, after spending several hours today working on a few of my machines, I went back over the thread to double-check everything that had been suggested. I probably hadn't spent as much time on the player control unit as I should have, since I had already checked it over and it appeared to have all of its arms working (that and the fact that I'm stubborn and really didn't think it could be the issue).

Anyway, after spending some time cleaning it and examining it more closely today, I finally noticed this:

foil missing.jpg

I probably still would have missed it had I not been reviewing your photo of you unit from earlier in the thread, Scokes. Wouldn't you know, that's the issue!! You guys were 100% on the ball here (even though I dropped it until now). So now the new question is, how do I fix it?

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#27 8 years ago

KES

scokes

Inactive member

Centerton, AR

8y 18,400 157 1

pm or e-mail me your address and I'll mail you a strip of copper conductive tape. no charge...

have the real stuff now, not the foil tape I used in my earlier images.

got mine from McMaster Carr - 76555A711

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#28 8 years ago

KES

scokes

Inactive member

Centerton, AR

8y 18,400 157 1

got a strip in the mail yesterday. made delivery by the skin of my teeth. you should see it Thursday at the latest.

I jumped back on my machine yesterday and it is frustrating the mess out of me. same problem remains. gonna head over to that post and see if I can get a response.

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#29 8 years ago

RM

rolf_martin_062

Inactive member

Aarau

9y 59,550 4,150 14 8

Hi Genotype +
This is a question to scokes: Do You mean https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cc-hee-haw-tilt-start-up-issue#post-2675552 ? -> Post-23 -> manually activate the Reset Bank ...
Want to "freshen up" the topic ? Showing a snippet of the schema (Coil on Reset-Bank) - asking for such a snippet of schema ? Greetings Rolf

0

#30 8 years ago

KES

scokes

Inactive member

Centerton, AR

8y 18,400 157 1

yes Rolf. that is the topic. The title has changed, because we have determined it is not a tilt issue. I will take the best pics I can of the schema and post tonight.

0

#31 8 years ago

KES

scokes

Inactive member

Centerton, AR

8y 18,400 157 1

genotyype. looking at your score reel picture again over in my thread, it looks like your EOS long blade is broken and the switch is open. should be closed. right?

location 3-D on the schematics (which by the way are now posted in my thread. first post)
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cc-hee-haw-tilt-start-up-issue#post-2675552

0

#32 8 years ago

OP

EAC

Genotyype

Pinside member

8y 19,000 35 27

I'll have to go back and check, but I know that there were some funky blades on several of those EOS switches (various players; various reels) where it was supposed to be open but closed, or vice-versa. That's one of the things I was looking at when I couldn't get the 100-point reels to move (and after fixing several it still didn't change anything). Since it appeared that it was working as intended, I didn't play around with other reels/eos's that seemed "wrong" to find out why.

0

#33 8 years ago

OP

EAC

Genotyype

Pinside member

8y 19,000 35 27

I got the copper in the mail today. All installed and working as intended now! The only thing left to do is to play around with the credit unit to find out why it won't go below two credits and this machine will be back to 100%! Thank all of you for your assistance!

By Genotyype

8 years ago

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