1973 GulfStream

http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1094/Williams_1973_Gulfstream_Instruction_Manual.pdf

I just picked up a 1973 Gulfstream pinball but it doesn't power up.

The Transformer seems to be good. Checking the voltage across the common lug I get:
6v lug - 6.9v
24v lug - 29.9v
High lug - 31.6v

I also see the Lock Relay (Z-29-1250) solenoid is bad or at least the plastic tab on the bobbin is broken. The solenoid wires appear to be attached and unbroken but not sure. If you manually trip or push the contact arms, the table lights and back lights come on but that is it.

There are no sounds of anything else working. Nothing works if you manually push any of the other solenoids. It appears that the magnetic coin door switch has been altered or added but the cable is not hooked to anything else on the machine. I can see where there are some new solder points on some of the solenoids but appears to be ok.

I'm not sure what I should check on the Game Over solenoid but the contacts appear to be making the contacts and open on the two contacts when the other 3 contacts are closed.
The coin mechanism is missing. Here are some pictures. I'm reading the repair manual posted for beginners and would like to order some parts to have on hand but not where to start specifically what is needed for the Gulfstream.
Thanks for your help!

Coin mechanism (resized).jpg

Solenoids 2 (resized).jpg

Back (resized).jpg

Solenoids 1 (resized).jpg

Solenoids 3 (resized).jpg

Stepper 1 (resized).jpg

Table (resized).jpg

#2 7 years ago

WOT

Atari_Daze

Spd

Houston, TX

7y 141K 10,052 7

If you don't have the manual yet, you can download it here:

#3 7 years ago

OXO

Pecos

http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#start

OP
Quoted from BalanceGuy:
If you manually trip or push the contact arms, the table lights and back lights come on but that is it.

When you turn on the machine and press the left flipper button, the lock relay coil should energize and pull in the armature. These always get toasty and burned looking because the coil is on all of the time that the machine is powered up. If the GI lights stay on when you manually trip the relay, then the coil is probably good.

The next best advice I can give you is the start up sequence that should occur:

Gulfstream is the one player version of OXO which I own so I can get you some pics that should be helpful if you need them.

#4 7 years ago

ROB

RCA1

Pinside+ Addict

OP
Quoted from BalanceGuy:
There are no sounds of anything else working.

If I'm reading your post correctly, you haven't been able to start a game.
Noticed in the pictures that the credit wheel is at blank, at zero credits.
Nothing will happen until a game is started, and you can't start a game with no credits.
EM's don't have an active attract mode, so lights on and nothing happening is normal until a game is started.

#5 7 years ago

OXO

Pecos

http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#free

Quoted from RCA1:
Noticed in the pictures that the credit wheel is at blank, at zero credits.

Since you don't have coin mechs, you will either have to buy them or borrow them from another game in order to 'coin up' the game and put credits on the credit wheel. Yes, you can also manually trip the coin switch. Manually tripping the coin switch is how they get damaged, so do be careful.

OP
Quoted from BalanceGuy:
The coin mechanism is missing.

25 cent coin mech example:

oxo_25cent_coin_mech (resized).jpg

There is another option. You can set the game to free play. This is easily done on a Williams EM.

You can also add credits by manually pressing the step-up solenoid on the replay unit. This is best done with the game off until you learn your way around the machine.

#6 7 years ago

rolf_martin_062

Inactive member

Aarau

9y 59,550 4,150 14 8

Hi BalanceGuy
ipdb has no schematics to Gulfstream - I use the "Superstar" schematics. Look at it (ipdb) - on top is the transformer , the lower side of the transformer has 6VAC-Power, Two wires Yellow means Common, High-Tap-30VAC, Normal-Tap-24VAC AND A WIRE TO Fuseholder, 15 Amp Fuse then WIRE "BLACK".

I look at second-last JPG in post-1 - I see on top of the transformer these lugs - from left to right: 6VAC-Power, Common (two yellow wires), Normal-Tap, High-Tap. It is not clear to see if the wire starts at "Normal-Tap" or at "High-Tap" - whatever --- follow this wire to a fuse - the other end has soldered-on onto the fuseholder: Wire BLACK.
Question: Do You have 24VAC or 30VAC at "Solder-lug-24VAC-fuse-side-wire-BLACK" ? Greetings Rolf

#7 7 years ago

ROB

RCA1

Pinside+ Addict

Quoted from rolf_martin_062:
ipdb has no schematics to Gulfstream

I have the schematic on paper. No way to scan it since it is on an oversize sheet.
I can take pics and post/send those if it would help.

#8 7 years ago

???

BalanceGuy

Inactive member

Nothing powers up at all. If I push the Lock armature manually then the table & back lights come on but nothing else powers up. I have a lock coil on order, but wasn't sure if I have to have the coin mechanism in order for everything to cycle. Who ever had this unit certainly did not take care of the coin switch on the door (the spring that operates the coin switch is bent and hanging on the outside of the door mount frame (I will upload a picture when I get home). I did close the left flipper switch so that it should power on when the power switch is turned on.
I wasn't sure if the lack of a coin mechanism would prevent me from powering on or if the lock relay coil being bad would prevent everything else from powering up (or both). If I manually trip the lock relay, will this allow the rest of the start up sequence to cycle?

Atari - Thank you for the manual link.

RCA1 - You are correct, I haven't started a game. I manually tripped the Step-up solenoid and it shows credits now but nothing has started.

#9 7 years ago

MEH

MotorCityMatt

Pinside member

Canton, MI

10y 55,300 1,193 9

Fuses good? Fuse holders ok?

#10 7 years ago

OXO

Pecos

BalanceGuy, here are a few more items to check on your journey to fix Gulfstream:

There are two slam switches in Gulfstream. These are (NC) 'normally closed' switches. Make sure that both switches have good contact. Clean these contacts! I go straight to 500 grit sandpaper to clean these contacts, unlike other switch contacts, as they can be problematic. They have tripped me up twice now trying to fix my EMs and can be a real bear to try to diagnose.

gulfstream_coin_door_slam_switch (resized).jpg

gulfstream_kick_off_switch (resized).jpg

You can test for continuity to be sure that the switches are working properly.

Verify that the Tilt lamp is not lit on the backglass. If the Tilt lamp is on, check the three tilt switches that are NO 'Normally Open' switches - The ball roll tilt, the tilt bob and a weighted tilt switch under the playfield.

Next, with the machine turned on, slowly manually turn the score motor nylon cams clockwise as viewed from the front. The score motor should turn on and return the cams to the 'home' position.

You do not need the coin mechs to start a game.

OP
Quoted from BalanceGuy:
Who ever had this unit certainly did not take care of the coin switch on the door (the spring that operates the coin switch is bent and hanging on the outside of the door mount frame (I will upload a picture when I get home).

Yeah, that's what happens to these delicate switches. You may be able to fix it later but skip them for now.

OP
Quoted from BalanceGuy:
If I manually trip the lock relay, will this allow the rest of the start up sequence to cycle?

The start button should energize and close the lock relay and the rest of the start up sequence should continue.

Once you have tested all of the above, you can manually trip the relays in the start up sequence, one at a time, to see if you can get the game to start.

#11 7 years ago

???

BalanceGuy

Inactive member

MotorCityMatt - yes the fuses and holders are all good.

Pecos - Thanks, I will check these switches. I have not cleaned any switches thinking I might cause more problems than I'm starting with.

#12 7 years ago

rolf_martin_062

Inactive member

Aarau

9y 59,550 4,150 14 8

Hi BalanceGuy
did You use Your meter and have measured "24VAC or 29VAC power" on "Fuse-Holder-side-Wire-color-BLACK-is-soldered-on" --- or did You (just) look at ? A fuse can look good --- but the fuse is shot (can happen) - also: Wire-BLACK can be broken-off the solder-point on the fuseholder, greetings Rolf

#13 7 years ago

OXO

Pecos

OP
Quoted from BalanceGuy:
I have not cleaned any switches thinking I might cause more problems than I'm starting with.

Smart move. We should be able to narrow the start up problems down to the point where we can start looking at dirty/misadjusted contacts on switches.

#14 7 years ago

???

BalanceGuy

Inactive member

RCA1 - can you show me a picture of the schematic which shows specific fuses? I cleaned the slam switches like Pecos suggested and it powered up but blew the 24v fuse after one of the motors in the back glass was continually running (clicking). The fuse blew before I could see what was running. In looking at the fuses, they all appear to be 15 amp. The only one labeled is the top fuse which indicates 10 amp. I would like to put a small circuit breaker on each of these to prevent replacing a ton of fuses. I also have a list of coil resistance readings I'm going to check to see if one of the coils is too low (am I thinking correctly?).

image (resized).jpeg

#15 7 years ago

???

BalanceGuy

Inactive member

Update: I found the Lock Relay coil Z29-1250 has a resistance of 2.1 ohms (should be 18 ohms). Also the Game Relay coil Z27-1000 checks 2.0 ohms and should be 10 ohms. I will replace both of these. Does anyone have a good source to purchase parts for EM machines?

#16 7 years ago

MJG

Mikala

Pinside+ Frequent

9y 78,800 1,390

The pinball resource, (PBR). Google it. You may not find your exact coil on his web site, just call Steve and he will give you comparable. But to be honest, I don't believe these are the main issue of your problem. Although, replacing the 1250 is always a good thing

#17 7 years ago

ROB

RCA1

Pinside+ Addict

OP
Quoted from BalanceGuy:
CA1 - can you show me a picture of the schematic which shows specific fuses?

At work right now. Will try to put something up when I get a chance.
The circuit breaker idea is a good one. Just be sure to use the right size breaker so you don't over-fuse and set anything on fire.

#18 7 years ago

???

BalanceGuy

Inactive member

I found when I turn on the machine everything lights up and stays lighted up, then when I push the credit button theBall Count Unit starts cycling several times and then it stops and blows the 24v fuse and everything shuts down. Any ideas as to why?

#19 7 years ago

OXO

Pecos

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/oxo-24-volt-fuse-blows#post-3497895

Don't thank me, thank TimMe:

#20 7 years ago

???

BalanceGuy

Inactive member

Quoted from Mikala:
But to be honest, I don't believe these are the main issue of your problem.

I ordered the coils from Steve. Thank you Mikala. I've been going through the startup sequence (see below) and it appears if I'm looking at it correctly, if there is credit showing on machine and I power it up the lock solenoid energizes and everything is fine. If I push the credit button to start the game then the Game Relay energizes and the game-over relay energizes and then the Ball Count Unit Disc cycles until the 24v fuse blows. This all takes 10 seconds or less.

If there are no credits showing on the machine then the same fuse blows almost instantly.

Williams Start-Up Sequence.

1. When the start button is pressed, the credit unit is decremented. This is done through the credit unit zero position switch and the 2nd coin relay (and the ball count zero position switch).
2. The end of stroke (EOS) switch on the credit unit decrement coil will energize the coin relay.
3. The coin relay will trip the game over relay.
4. The coin relay will energize the reset relay. The score motor will run.
5. The reset relay will energize the ball count unit reset, through the score motor.
6. The reset relay energizes the 2nd coin relay latch and game over relay latch coils.
There are more sequences than listed above, I just listed the ones down to where I'm having trouble.

#21 7 years ago

MJG

Mikala

Pinside+ Frequent

9y 78,800 1,390

So, are you saying with no credits, you hit the left flipper to activate power, then the fuse blows? Before you hit the start button.

#22 7 years ago

???

BalanceGuy

Inactive member

Quoted from Mikala:
So, are you saying with no credits, you hit the left flipper to activate power, then the fuse blows? Before you hit the start button.

Yes. If the credit is blank (no numbers) and you flip on the power, push the left flipper button, the back screen and play field will light briefly and fuse will blow.

If there are credits showing and you do the same sequence, the lights will stay on. When you push the start button the GAME RELAY & GAME OVER energizes and then the BALL COUNT UNIT DISC starts cycling and then the 24v fuse blows. This all happens very quickly.

#23 7 years ago

BLM

wizardblom

Pinside member

's-heer Hendrikskinderen

11y 56,650 411 8 19

Try to release the game over by hand.
Look if you see a spark on one of the coils.

Could be a shorted coil, kickoutcoil for the ball for instance, it must be the function just after the game over resets (current to all the contacts).

I do not think it will be one of the bumpers or slingshots because they have a separate fuse under the playfield (DC converter)

#24 7 years ago

rolf_martin_062

Inactive member

Aarau

9y 59,550 4,150 14 8

Hi BalanceGuy
Your pin has an Information-Light on the apron to inform the player "HAVE credits on the Replay-Counter" --- unlit: NO Credits. See in the lower left corner: http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=1094&picno=1068

Here http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#free on the Williams picture "RED ARROW" there is ONLY ONE Switch --- Your pin has TWO switches to open when the Unit reaches Zero-Position. One switch is for "hindering to start a new game when there is no credit on the Replay-Counter" - the other switch is for the Information-Light. Want to investigate for some short / crossover 24VAC faulty feeding into 6VAC-Circuitry (?).

"Ball Count Unit Disc starts cycling and then the fuse blows" - Want to try (?): Unsolder at "Coil on Ball Count Unit the wire color-NON-black" - then MANUALLY step the Ball Count Unit back (You are beeing nice and helpful to the pin) - THEN start a game --- maybe THIS coil is bad (?)

Questions - You press the Credit- / Start-Button: LATCH-Coil or TRIP-Coil do actuate on Game-Relay ? On Game-Over-Relay ? --- On Ball Count Unit: WHICH Coil fires - the Step-DOWN-Coil or the Step-UP-Coil ? Greetings Rolf

#25 7 years ago

MEH

MotorCityMatt

Pinside member

Canton, MI

10y 55,300 1,193 9

With a multimeter check every coil in the game. This is the first step when you buy an old em. Should take you 10 minutes to do every coil.

#26 7 years ago

ROB

RCA1

Pinside+ Addict

Heres the schematic.
Sorry about the delay.
Happy New Year!

20160710_204619.jpg

20160710_204602.jpg

20160710_204538.jpg

2 weeks later

#27 7 years ago

???

BalanceGuy

Inactive member