Amazing thread! I just recently landing a mostly working Haunted House. The main problem right now is with the motor control board. The speed control on the targets is definitely not working right and changes randomly as the game warms up. The control board appears to have many replaced components and some burned components. To make matters worse the board is broken at the connector and only the traces and contacts are holding it together at the break. I went on GPE and ordered replacements for every component on the board figuring I would not even mess with trying to figure out what is wrong and simply replace all of the 45 year old crusty cracked parts with new ones of verified values. Simple right? I actually thought about having a new PC board spun and just populate that with new components.

Oh well, the game is pretty nice and lights up nice and the targets look sharp. I don't plan on doing a restoration much beyond getting it working 100% at this point, but I am absolutely drooling at the restoration being done in this thread. Great work!

Haunted House 1 (resized).jpg

Would you mind sharing your parts list, if you are certain they are correct replacements? I have two boards to rebuild and it would save me the homework.

I'm about 75% of the way through the swap and so far the parts coming up match up to what is on the schematic. Hopefully it works properly. Once it is up and running and everything is verified I will post a parts list. The board schematic is not part of the game schematic. I will try to post a good picture or scan of that too.

Beautiful work, Pacman!!

Another great PACMAN restore. Most excellent!

Amazing. Brings back memories of helping setting one of them up when it came out.

Thank you !

LTG : )

The board rebuild turned into a project due to the broken connector. As a help to those who might be rebuilding the motor speed board, I will share this tip on the transistors:

If you look at the schematics you will notice that each pair of transistors has a connection from the Collector of one to the Emitter of the other. Rather than having that connection from pin-to-pin on the circuit board, the connection is through the metal on the back of the transistor where it is in contact with the heat sink. I didn't notice this at first, so when I was replacing the transistors it was natural to me to clean off the heat sinks and apply some heat sink grease! It took me a while troubleshooting to figure out that the grease was keeping the connection from being made! So make sure you don't use heat sink grease. Also, if you aren't replacing the transistors you might want to remove the screw hardware and clean all of the backs of the transistors and heat sinks to make sure the connection is good.

I hope to have this complete soon and I will post the parts list and any other lessons learned.

Wow! Just...wow! Great work.

That finished head relay board is a work of art.

I very much want this game in my life. Someday...

This is a wonderful source for the project I am about to undertake. I have just taken delivery of my own HH and intend refurbishing back to 100% playability and a light cosmetic touch up. I like a little patina. But of course the game has many issues. The first being the fuse assemblies are populated with anything but the correct rated fuses. For the life of me I have searched and searched for a relevant fuse list but with no luck. Could you share what fuses your game has please. And whether they are fast or slow blows. Many many thanks in advance.

Oh and by the way....your work on this machine is astounding. I take my hat off to you sir.

Fantastic!!!

Just picked up a Haunted House that is missing these 2 nylon couplings.... anywhere I can find those?

They always seem to be missing on non-working machines.

Seems like it would be a good project for 3D printing?

https://www.shapeways.com/product/J2ECQUANV/arcade-shooter-score-reel-coupling-adaptor

Is this the part?

Sure looks like it!

Guess I need to place an order for spares!

That's awesome! Just placed an order and I'll update when they arrive and are installed

Thanks for posting the link!

I was going to try and find someone local and borrow the part and stop by Pinball Life since they are only 20 min from me. They do some 3d print projects and this seems like it would be the perfect project for them too.

I'm not affiliated with the seller. I was randomly researching 3d printers and came across it. I then remembered reading the warning on pinrepair.com about midway motorized reels and thought how great it was that someone was selling this part. I almost want to buy a couple in case I come across a good deal on one of these..

Does any one have a source for the 8 track player belt? Mine is dry rotted and broken. I've read that the guy who used to sell the 8 tracks and belts is not doing well and his store is closed. Pinpal was it?

I did look in the coin box finally and there was one of the original nylon couplets in there, and a piece of copper that had been pinched on each end for the other couplet..... totally works though and turns the rod through the score assembly, but after 30 sec or so the motor seems to bog down and stop turning.

Seems like the score motor pair may be wearing out but everything is moving freely on the motors themselves when not hooked to the score/shot assemblies.... probably need to take apart the score/shot assembly and clean all that old grease out of there to get them moving nicely again.

3 in 1 oil, or just let it ride?

I started taking apart the shot assembly and the leather washers were stuck onto the metal plates they are sandwiched between.

I also took a pass through all of the contacts on the back door, taking apart the spring and locking piece on the coils to get at the contacts really well and shine them up. I like the little "car wash" looking wheel for the Dremel tool for shining up the contacts and getting all that thick black crusty stuff off. Typically I just use rubbing alcohol and q-tips, but that doesn't always do the trick when its dark and thick. Made a few adjustments on contacts that weren't make/break properly, cleaned up the plug connectors throughout the machine, cleaned up the card edge connectors, replaced some missing screws here and there.... cleaned the contacts and disc for the monster that moves left, right, and I can see the witch and 2 cat assembly needs to be cleaned up as well to get the parts freely moving again.

Lots to do!

Keeping an eye on this thread... Mine is in the same bad condition. Also considering the MP3 upgrade. I am working on a Wild Kingdom but the same type of tape player I'm sure. It's just ambient background from my game.

That is my part on Shapeways and I do alot of designing and help projects for people alot of which is my time donated to help others and favours to help mates and fellow pinheads and make them available - I encourage to support, give feedback, but not copy

all repro parts
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinksrepro&sort=newest

tools
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinkstool&sort=newest

all designs
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinks&sort=newest

Neat products, thanks for the links

Got the score reel couplings in the mail a few days ago and installed them. Working great!

Thanks for your efforts in creating these parts. It was a huge help and I'm sure others will be grateful as well!

Also, here is a pic of the before mentioned copper tubing that was in place of the proper coupling. It worked too! This was not done by me, but was in the game when purchased.

The 2nd pic is of the "car wash" style wheel I typically use on the Dremel that works wonders cleaning contacts and such. It's a little worn and probably time for a fresh one, but they are bigger to start with. Just a quick little zip over the surface and all of the black crusty stuff is gone! That is, if the iso and qtips don't take care of it properly first. If stepper units are really really bad, I use that to clean up the traces too. It works wonders for score reels on old EM games and steppers in puck/ball bowlers and such.

IMG_0749 (resized).JPG

IMG_0751 (resized).JPG

I like those plastic wheel attachments. I will have to try that trick sometime.

How does it work on a really pitted one? I'm guessing you would have to use a file for that job.

It's easy to completely remove pits from the contacts, and since it does a nice smooth job of it all, you can shape the curve back into the contact if need be. I like it. It makes quick and easy work of it.

Thanks!, I have a some contacts to clean with the next couple of projects

20180729_180428 (resized).jpg

Awesome!!

Very cool. You always do the best work!

So beautiful ! I worked on one back when it came out, in my Father's arcade. Thank you for the memories !

LTG : )

It's wonderful! Thanks for the update

Lovely work well done , well worth the wait to see it all going again

Respect for your work fantastic result.

Currently I have a "one million bc" in work, there is a lot to do .... and I'm still looking for a manual or parts list

https://get.google.com/albumarchive/101339907319724020179/album/AF1QipOKiVC2HHZ0OCdEanTX0z1DD9d4-gF_IfM54jrg

Cool, following

Such a satisfying thread as always. While I like my games to have patina/wear and show their age without being ugly or unpresentable, I have mad respect for your restores. You go the distance and spare no expense. Cabinet looks so clean i could eat off it. Lovely restore, lovely game, would love to have one one day.