(Topic ID: 116164)

1972 Gottlieb Flying Carpet pop bumper

By Scfarrell81

9 years ago


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  • 24 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by jjpm
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#1 9 years ago

I have had this machine and it has worked well forever. Recently had a blown fuse and I believe that a stuck pop bper is the reason.

The left pop bumper coil appears burnt and is permanently retracted, holding open a switch. Whenever I manually hit the skirt, the pinball machine shorts and turns off.

Obviously this coil needs replaced, but I am not sure if there are other areas I should check before ordering replacement parts. i have metered across the coil to see if it is being powered all the time and that does not appear to be the case, I think it is just jammed retracted.

I am new to working on the machine so any thoughts are appreciated. Still trying to learn how to read the circuit.

Thanks, Sean

#2 9 years ago

Pics of good coil, bad coil and circuit

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#3 9 years ago

it is toasted, get a new coil and sleeve and you should be back in business

#4 9 years ago

What Boilerman said. Replace it.

It is probably shorted internally, instead of disipating the current draw, which is why it blows the fuse.

Be ready to track down the reason it stuck on. This did not just happen by chance. There will be a switch stuck somewhere that kept this energized which caused it to burn up.

#5 9 years ago

The right pop should be on the same circuit and operates normally. Although when right pop is activated the machine kicks power off, i assume this has to do with the failed left pop.

If a switch were holding it closed, wouldnt it also be holding the right pop closed?

#6 9 years ago

The Right and Left pop bumpers are both controlled by the D relay, however by separate switches on D.

D is activated if either the Right or Left pop bumper spoon switches closes.

Once activated, D remains locked on until both EOS switches on the Right and Left pop bumpers open (so they both need to fire when D activates).

So if one of the switch contacts on D doesn't cause one of the pop bumpers to fire, then:
- D gets stuck on,
- the 'other' pop bumper gets stuck on,
- the pop bumper coil overheats,
- the plastic sleeve melts,
- the plunger gets wedged in the coil and can't release

which probably contributes to the fuse blowing.

After replacing the coil and sleeve, make sure that both pop bumpers are activating and opening their EOS switches, so that D doesn't get stuck on.

#7 9 years ago

So the eos switches are labeled (On Right/Left "Pop Bumper") and my fried pop coil,is labeled (Left "Pop Bumper")

Is that correct?

#8 9 years ago
Quoted from Scfarrell81:

So the eos switches are labeled (On Right/Left "Pop Bumper")

Correct

Quoted from Scfarrell81:

my fried pop coil,is labeled (Left "Pop Bumper")

I can't quite tell from the picture which one is left or right (too close in, no reference point).

#9 9 years ago

I will testify that the burnt coil is directly under my left pop bumber.

I was just wanting to confirm that it was listed on the schematic as (Left "Pop Bumper") so I ordered the correct coil as a replacement. i believe the coil labeled 'D' is the relay located remotely from the pop and not the coil on the pop.

#10 9 years ago
Quoted from Scfarrell81:

i believe the coil labeled 'D' is the relay located remotely from the pop and not the coil on the pop.

Correct. D is a relay, not a solenoid.

(Incidentally, on Gottlieb schematics, relay coils are depicted with the 'loops' hanging down and solenoid coils are depicted with the loops pointing up.)

#11 9 years ago
Quoted from MikeO:

What Boilerman said. Replace it.
It is probably shorted internally, instead of disipating the current draw, which is why it blows the fuse.
Be ready to track down the reason it stuck on. This did not just happen by chance. There will be a switch stuck somewhere that kept this energized which caused it to burn up.

The pop bumper relay is activated by the spoon switch closing, and when the EOS switch opens, the bumper should release.

I think it's entirely possible the skirt got outside the spoon switch and caused the bumper to lock on. I have had that happen. It's interesting that the other bumper didn't burn up.

#12 9 years ago
Quoted from DirtFlipper:

(Incidentally, on Gottlieb schematics, relay coils are depicted with the 'loops' hanging down and solenoid coils are depicted with the loops pointing up.)

That's cool; I didn't know.

#13 9 years ago
Quoted from DirtFlipper:

Correct. D is a relay, not a solenoid.
(Incidentally, on Gottlieb schematics, relay coils are depicted with the 'loops' hanging down and solenoid coils are depicted with the loops pointing up.)

Wow you learn something new everyday.

1 week later
#14 9 years ago

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Need help. Have the replacement coil, but am having trouble disassembling the old coil. THere is a small gold disc retaining ring on the bottom side of the coil. I tried to remove it, but chipped it and don't want to do any more damage by forcing it.

Any guidance on my next steps to disassemble this would be appreciated.

Sean

#15 9 years ago

That's the coil stop stuck inside the old sleeve. Since the old coil heated up, the sleeve contracted around the coil stop and probably the plunger. (The coil stop is the piece with the threaded end sticking out.) The coil stop should be attached to the coil bracket, and normally doesn't get stuck inside the sleeve.

The chipped part is just the plastic lip on the sleeve.

You'll probably need to get the coil stop out first, and then tap out the plunger from the newly opened end (once the coil stop is out of the way).

#16 9 years ago

so can i grab the threaded end and pull?

#17 9 years ago

screw it back to the bracket then knock of the coil that way you don't damage the stop threads

#18 9 years ago

Or put the nut back on it and grab that.

#19 9 years ago

Used the screw and a spacer to attempt to jack the thread out of the end of the sleeve.

It was pulling the far side with it, and bottomed out the spring/bakelite/bracket.

So I ended up uncoiling the wire and whittle through the old sleeve to the metal.

SO my next question is this picture supposed to be 2 pieces or 1? there is a thin connection of metal that makes me think i broke it, but the other hand if I understand the workings of this piece, it would need to be 2 pieces.

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#20 9 years ago

Two pieces as shown.

Your thumb and fore finger are holding the coil stop.

The rest is the plunger mechanism - the working parts.

Get a new coil and put it back together and then see what caused it to stick on and fix that.

#21 9 years ago

If you really are unclear, disassemble the bottom side of the other pop bumper to see how it is set up.

#22 9 years ago
Quoted from MikeO:

Two pieces as shown.
Your thumb and fore finger are holding the coil stop.
The rest is the plunger mechanism - the working parts.
Get a new coil and put it back together and then see what caused it to stick on and fix that.

Great, there was some thin metal that looked like breakage. I have a new coil & will reassemble to see what is up.

#23 9 years ago

New coil is installed and the pop is operating correctly. Not sure why it stuck on and burned the original coil, but so far that ghost is gone.

I have a 3 small fixes to get the game 100%, including a rollover that has never worked in the last 30 years. All that is for a different thread, if (when) I fall into trouble on those.

Thank you to everyone who helped on this issue.

#24 9 years ago

The rollover could just be a simple contact clean and adjust. With the hood up, try lightly contacting the relay to see if it engages a score. If it does, lightly press down the playfield rollover to see if it contacts the relay and gently bend/adjust until the two contacts make contact when the rollover is engaged. If it registers nothing, trace the wires and check for a bad solder contact, loose wire, or wire crack. If nothing there, check the ohms running through the coil that powers that relay to see if the coil is fried.

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