Manples, I just sold my Space Time - its a great machine. Yours looks in good shape.

There are plenty of threads on Pinside to help when it comes to cleaning, repairing, etc, and yes to this:

Mine cleaned up pretty good, plus this set of cheap paints from Michael's has colors that matched pretty close to the machine:

f07090b128523ca2600ba95b4a43c26fa6a25345 (resized).jpg

One more thing I remember with mine was that I had to completely disassemble the motor that drives the time tunnel. At first I thought I could get away with a cursory clean, but that thing has to run super smooth to avoid blown fuses. Once I gave it the cleaning it deserved, it ran beautifully.

Finally, its one of the few EM machines where the schematic is on IPDB:

http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2262

I got it printed at Staples for $6.

Great game to restore, and there's plenty of people here to help....

They printed it on 48 x 24 paper, its about 44 x 12 when printed - so folder longways it looks pretty much like an original.

Certainly true on SS machines, Gmkalos, but flexstone should be good for EM low voltage points (all except flipper buttons, EOS flipper coils, where metal file is required).

Anyway more to the point, before others ask, Manples how did you get that coin door looking so amazing?!

Manples,

Be careful that the low reading is not a failed coil if you did not desolder one of the connections to it - you have to do that to get a true reading otherwise it may be making a circuit via another way (coils, even though your recent experience does not support this, rarely fail).

And the "Lock" relay is often missing its wrapper, or at least has a charred wrapper, as its always on once power is applied.

I would desolder one connection and recheck it before you order - I think its highly unlikely the hold coil is causing your issue. I would go back to your original test, and with power off, set all the reels to "1". Then try the reset. I would guess that one or more score reel switches are not quite closed on 1-9 given that's where you have been working. Good luck!

Cool, its getting better each time. I recommend you focus on just one issue, run that down, move on to next.

So, I would start with that P4 issue. At start up that should reset to player 1, by a pulse of the reset solenoid (rather than the one that steps up to 2, 3, 4). Do you have the schematic? If so, look to see what switches need to be made for that to fire. Its good to also use a jumper cable to eliminate each switch in turn - thats all again in the pinrepair bible.

Good luck!

Well, 3 years ago I looked at my first schematics and thought...yea, right, as if - plus I have never been an electrical engineer, etc, but...after about 3 months of advice from great people on here and a bit of trial and error (and sticking to one issue at a time) I am now fairly confident (only "fairly" as there's always more to learn)

Anyway, I still have a soft copy of the schematic, and seems to me it may just be as simply as ensuing a couple of score motor switches are both clean and adjusted correctly.

Capture (resized).JPG

I assume the numbers on tunnel disc align with number of 1,000's, so for 4 (4k) to score correctly looks like 4C and 9A would be worth a look.

For score motor switch numbering, see here:

http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#motor

Manples, I too had bad paint loss around the pop bumpers. Used this trick and was very pleased:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/em-worn-playfield-pop-bumper-area-cover#post-3441311

Also, I find that this set of (very cheap) paints from Michaels is very useful for simple playfield touch up as many are a good match with no mixing:

paints (resized).jpg

If you look at my before and after pictures from the post above you will see I had similar wear to yours, but those paints (plus a set of ultra fine Sharpies) did a good enough job for me.

Now, back to that door of yours I have never done well with my Harbor Freight buffer, so was interested to see the tools you used, could you provide a little more detail about what you used in what order, as none of my doors look that good!

thanks

Well you are certainly going "all-in". I have not had the brass cojones to clear coat a playfield.

Thanks for the run down on the door, I'll take that challenge on my next machine.

"Nico's magic brush" what's that?

As for the issues you had, I think we all have those and have to put that down to "great learnings" ready for the next one

Nico,

I need to ask a stupid question on the Magic Brush, as I see you used it on stepper contacts, but you also use it on relay switches? It just looks like its quite big to squeeze inbetween them?

(Saying that, I've already put a Dremmel 8220 and the brushes in my Amazon basket awaiting your response - any excuse for a new tool )