On startup the stepper is fired repeatedly. (as score motor turns) It drops out from a switch on top of stepper that sets it to position 1.It is the drum that has 1 cam. The switch needs adjusted for this to work.

The 100 point relay is what should pulse unit. There should be one blade on relay for this. The 500 points are pulsed thru score motor and should be dropped out by the other switch on top of stepper (the one with 2 cams, to let it advance 5 steps before dropping out) the AS stepper is just for the light show and as stated can be taken out.

It helps to get the full throw on plastic. With time switches get stiff and stop the full throw. Turn switch over and move all blades until the plastic touches the metal stop on underside. Then reset all blades. This gives you full throw and switches are not as sensitive.

Hi Barry
good - when You have a connection "Wall-Outlet-POWER" - into the pin - to and through fuse - to and through Main Power-Switch to "big black box, transformer", here: http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=823&picno=19015 in the left corner "away from You", sitting on the bottom panel.

Because of Safety Reasons: Have the Main Power Cord unplugged - ONLY plug-in, toggle-on, start a game etc. WHEN YOU NEED electricity for testing / playing.
(((Maybe You have not yet realized: 1) The FUSES are neatly packed - about 4 to 5 fuses mounted side by side. 2) One of these fuses is the 110 VAC fuse. 3) The wiring of the 110 VAC POWER is: ... to and through fuse - THEN to and through Main Power Switch (and then to the transformer) - IF YOU WOULD DO: Pin is plugged-in - You toggle-off the Main Power Switch and think "everything has no connection" - You then touch the 110 VAC fuse - ELECTRIC SHOCK !!! AS THE FUSE STILL HAS CONNECTION TO 110 VAC ( because of 3) ). Please - whenever possible: Have the pin UN-PLUGGED.)))

In Post-49, -50 I have asked some questions ...
Please make up Your mind - do You want to work on the "G-Stepper, Horseshoe" --- or do You want to work on "F-Relay-Stepper and the A-RELAY" ? We can work on both problems at the same time - I would like "we work on ONE problem", greetings Rolf

Hi Barry
the 110VAC-Outlet for "Sheriff" is outdoors - and it is raining. We can do some theory. Have the schematics so the letters A, B ... H, I are horizontal (and the numbers vertical). It is good to look now and then into the part with the 6VAC "lights" - the lights tell us about steppers and relays. In position (schematics) A-4 and B-4 we see: "G-Relay Disc - Advance Unit" --- and we see 10 Lamps - Your 10 "Horseshoe lamps".

From position B-8 / C-8 we learn: The "Number Match Lights***" are controlled by the endlessly stepping forward "F-Relay Disc" (((Gottlieb should note: "round unit, 10 steps per revolution"))).
*** - When reaching "Game Over": The F-Stepper is in a (randomly) position --- ONE of these lights is lit (reaching Game Over) - lets say "30" is lit: IF (if) one or more players accidentally have "...30" on the Score-Drum: Each of these players (having 30 on the Score-Drum) will be rewarded by a REPLAY (added to the Replay-Counter).

In position (schematics) A-2 / B-2 / C-2 we see: A "Make-and-Brake-Switch on A-Relay" EITHER lights "7 Rollover Lites" OR IT DOES light "6 Rollover Lites" - see post-49, second JPG, upper left corner. Some playfield lights "kind of alternate".
In position (schematics) A-10 through B-11 we are told: "Coil on A-Relay is shown at schematics-E-2".
So we look-up at E-2, F-2, G-2, H-2 and we see: "A Switch on F-Relay/Stepper" does feed electricity to "Coil on A-Relay so A-Relay pulls" --- or at some times "NO feeding - so A-Relay does NOT pull".

The "F-Relay/Stepper" has TWO functions - the ONLY thing the two functions have in common is: Both functions are controlled as the stepper steps forward. ONE function is the "Number Match *** function" - the OTHER function is "every other step the Coil on A-Relay shall be feeded with electricity / shall NOT be feeded".
IF (if) we would have some problem with the "Number Match *** Function": We would look at the two bakelite plates (and look at the stepping).

WE DO have a problem with "feeding current to Coil on A-Relay" - WE DO only look at that single Switch on F-Relay/Stepper - (and we look at the stepping) --- WE DO CHECK connection to A-Relay.
WE do NOT look at "bakelite stuff" (as we are not interested in the "Number Match *** Feature).

I could not find in Wiki-english so look here: https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stromsto%C3%9Fschalter - the first picture shoes a "Mini-Stepper having ONE switch" - this switch is sometimes open and it is sometimes closed.
(((In Europe we can buy such ministeppers, see: http://gfinder.findernet.com//assets/Series/408/S26EN.pdf --- but I am confident / sure: We get Your pin running)))
Greetings Rolf

Hi Barry
this post is also "just theory" - a while ago I wrote: A little bit of joking - "VERY sophisticated De-Luxe Jumpering" is: You jumper just an "Score-Motor-Switch in question" (De-Luxe Version) - You are part of the brain of the pin -You are part of the logic of play --- AT THE EXACT MOMENT You hold the gator-clips together and make connection - YOU DO what the Score-Motor-Switch should do ... - end of sophisticated - end of a bit of joking.
Please remember: "De-Luxe Jumpering" and "Very sophisticated De-Luxe Jumpering" are my terms / creations - they are NOT "official terms".

I happen to not like to work on Gottliebs and I happen to not like to work on Score-Motor-Switches. Other pinsiders may not have these feelings - they simply work on such stuff - they do not have my problems.
Because I do not like to fumble on such switches: I do many tests (hoping the fault is somewhere else) - ONLY, at last (when I am convinced the fault IS THIS SCORE-MOTOR-SWITCH): Then I fumble on that switch.

Lets construct a situation (not a problem You have) --- lets just say "the P-Relay does not pull-in when the ball rolls over the 'Through Switch' ". I inspect the Through-Switch (looks good) and I make a simple jumpering on "Coil on P-Relay" (fires when jumpered).
So I come to the question "Is the Score-Motor-Switch-1C good (red question marks)" ? I would like to do the "VERY sophisticated De-Luxe Jumpering" on SCM-1C - BUT: I cannot get to the Solder-Lugs on SCM-1C - no room to clip-on my Jumper-Wires.
Now comes my trick - I look-up in the schematics - I see: There is a DIRECT connection between SCM-1C AND "Anti-Cheat Switch" (my orange line). I also see: There is a DIRECT connection between SCM-1C AND "Ball Return Switch".
INSTEAD of "fumbling and trying to clip-on my Jumper-Wires at (hard to get at) SCM-1C: I happily use the "orange dot" and the "green dot" to clip-on my Jumper-Wires, then I do my testing ...

"Creating an example": Very often there is a "snag / sting in the tail" --- in my "example" it is: I easily can look if the "O-Relay pulls-in / if the U-Relay pulls-in" and the result tells me about SCM-1C ...

Lets neglect the "snag / sting in the tail" in my example and say: When I want to clip-on at some place but cannot --- I look for another place with DIRECT connection.

Last: IF (if) I do tests this way - I must consider: Maybe there is a fault in (JPG) "green line" and/or "orange line" (?), greetings Rolf

zSheriff-Work-18 (resized).jpg

Hi Barry
this post is ONLY theory - words on "soldering".
The stuff we use for soldering is metal - a mixture of Tin and Plumbum (and very little Zinc, Silver and Copper) with Kolophonium*** (Flux) to make the hot / melted stuff flow nicely.
The stuff is NOT Iron / Steel - we easily can drill. Look at an "plugged-in" Jones-Plug in the pin - You look at the "top of the plug" - the male part then goes downwards and at the bottom is the socket. The wire that is soldered-on at the male part actually is soldered-on at the bottom end of "male part is a tube".

I have an Jones-plug and one wire has broken-off at the male part - so I can look at the upper / top end of "male part is tube" - and look down into the tube. I have a drilling machine I can drill strictly vertical*** - see here: https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/S%C3%A4ulenbohrmaschine - a piece of wood (I can drill into) - I carefully drill top - down towards and through the bottom end - I drill through the "male part is a tube" - I simply drill out the old solder stuff (and some "left pieces of wire").

I may have to solder-on a little "extension-wire***" at the end of the broken-off wire. I turn the "male part of Jones Plug" 90 degrees - the "male parts are tubes" lay horizontally - I put in the wire all the way through the tube so (at bottom end) a bit of the wire comes out of the tube --- I solder-on the wire at "bottom-end of 'male part is tube' ".

Kolophonium*** shall make the heated "solder material" to FLOW --- when Your heated "solder material" forms "pearls" instead of flowing: Your Solder-Iron is TOO HOT - the Kolophonium evaporize instead of "beeing there to help the flowing" --- Radio Shack and such stores sell "Solder-Stations" with a knob to turn to ADJUST HEAT.

Extension-wire***: Take a new copper-cable and twist old an new wire / cable. When soldered together You may want to insulate the place - You may wrap "insulating tape" around --- VERY practical: "Shrinking tube" - some spezial rubber-material - You heat it with the solder-iron and it nicely shrinks - much better than "insulating tape" - see Radio Shack, maybe K-Mart and such stores.

I point out: A handy tool to "suck away unwanted solder material" is "solder vacuum pump (?)", see: https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Entl%C3%B6tpumpe --- look at the first picture You push the big black knob leftwards - a mechanism under the little black knob locks -
You use the solder-iron to heat-up the place You want have free of solder material - You hold the pump (as in second picture) and press the little black knob - IT SUCKS.
This tool is HANDY when You have an "solder-lug on a switchblade on a relay" - and You want to have that solder-lug clean / open.

drilling vertical***: Very often we cannot take the Jones-Plug to the "drilling machine" - You may use an "hand-held" drilling machine - a friend holds the "Junes plug" and You carefully drill "free hand" --- ALSO: Look at the bottom end and socket - most likely You can have the Jones-Plug plugged in into the socket - and drill. Greetings Rolf

High on the list of "people I'd like to buy a drink" is Rolf.
He's always been so very generous with his time and expertise.