(Topic ID: 95093)

1970 Williams Rock n Roll

By angrysaladman

9 years ago


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#1 9 years ago

Anyone know where I can find the diagnostic for this thing? Seems like life would be easier with this partially working machine if I could properly troubleshoot it. TIA.

#2 9 years ago

Or is it a take it apart and learn sort of thing?

#3 9 years ago

You try listing some of the problems here and asking for help.

#4 9 years ago

Pictures help too.

#5 9 years ago

As it stands, the kick out holes are the only problem. The don't kick out during play. The spinner goes once the ball hits the hole but there is no score added and no kick out. After tilt and or reset the kick outs kick the ball out... but only occasionally. Seems like the problem is then between the kick out hole scoring because after reset the score will tally but its on a new game then.

#6 9 years ago

Any help for this noob?

#7 9 years ago

Could be a switch in the score motor. There is a switch in there that activates kickout holes. You'll need a schematic to find that switch.

Check also any relay (probably hanging under the playfield) that is labeled eject hole.

#8 9 years ago

Any idea where one can find schematics?

#9 9 years ago

Pinball Resource is the place to buy manuals/schematics:

http://www.pbresource.com/mansch.html

#10 9 years ago

As I understand it this is the same game as Jive Time but single player correct? If so, I found a Jive Time Manual that should help. Playfield looks exactly the same, both have the spinner in the backglass as well.

#11 9 years ago

Rock n Roll (the 1970 version) is an "add-a-ball" version of Jive Time. In general, add-a-ball versions have different wiring than their replay brothers. A seperate schematic was issued for the add-a-ball versions.

#12 9 years ago

Ken thank you. When I power up the machine seems to have a motor stuck in a loop trying to get the ball out of the kick out. Sounds like a locomotive running wild. It did kick out once tonight but as soon as it hit the whole again it was stuck. I can see the 'motor' as I'm calling it and it has a piston like action. Is it this motor that's trying to reset the game but hanging up on the kick out?

#13 9 years ago

you should definitely order a schematic from PBR. It will be a copy, but it's a no-brainer at around $15.

#14 9 years ago

My Jive Time did the same thing--I had someone else take care of it. He was pretty capable, more so w/ SS's. He said he ended up spending hours going through and making sure all switches were adjusted, one by one, and this took care of it. That was going to be my approach, but I also knew I was perfectly capable of f'ing it up. If you're feeling brave, that's what I would do. Or find some EM guys to help out.

#15 9 years ago

How's the jive time as a player? Encouraging if it just took a thorough check to get yours up and running.

#16 9 years ago

Also - I have some wear and tear on the playfield - nothing too bad. What I'm wondering is, how do you guys go about repainting? My father-in-law runs an industrial paint shop and he can do the clear coating for me once I have touched up the playfield, I'm just not sure the best way to go about doing that.

1 week later
#17 9 years ago

I've got some weak flippers on this thing...do I need a complete rebuild of the flippers or does replacing the springs usually do the trick?

#18 9 years ago
Quoted from angrysaladman:

I've got some weak flippers on this thing...do I need a complete rebuild of the flippers or does replacing the springs usually do the trick?

replacing the springs will likely not help... when springs "wear/get tired", it would actually have the effect of making your flippers stronger (less resistance from the spring when flipping)... keep in mind that the springs are there to return the flipper to the rest position...

imo, rebuilding the flippers is pretty much an "automatic" when shopping a machine...

#19 9 years ago

Yes you need to rebuild the flippers. Williams EM flippers are pretty crappy, but with new parts they can be strong at least.

Replace the linkages, coil stops, and coil sleeves, and EOS switches. The only thing you don't need to replace is the coils themselves.

Also file down the cabinet flipper button switches and replace those if they look really bad.

#20 9 years ago

Appreciate the info guys - I haven't had the opportunity to break this down and examine it mechanically so apologies for thinking the spring worked in reverse.

#21 9 years ago
Quoted from angrysaladman:

Appreciate the info guys - I haven't had the opportunity to break this down and examine it mechanically so apologies for thinking the spring worked in reverse.

no worries.... i still get things backwards, and i've been learning for 18 months now...

just for giggles... clean and gap your existing end of stroke switches for the flippers (the switch that opens up when the flipper reaches the, well, end of stroke, you'll see it open)... can't hurt...

#22 9 years ago

And - as an update to my earlier post about the kickout holes - both are operating now and the spinner is working correctly....guess it just needed a few plays to warm up.

#23 9 years ago
Quoted from angrysaladman:

And - as an update to my earlier post about the kickout holes - both are operating now and the spinner is working correctly....guess it just needed a few plays to warm up.

it isn't totally uncommon when a machine has sat for awhile that "things that don't work" turn into "things that do work" after they have been moved a few times... sometimes just opening/closing a switch a few times is enough to clean the contacts enough for it to work...

#24 9 years ago

ccotenj - I was manually rotating the spinner on the back once I hit the kickout hole - very cool - one of the things I love about an EM

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