I'm not sure what that guy was doing in the head of the machine, but he was messing
with things that had nothing to do with getting it to start up with coins, but what Mark
had stated is where to start. Although not registering strikes and spares properly, it does
show that the 1 - 10 Relay (in the Relay Bank) is energizing which tells us that most likely
all Pin Relays are energizing. There is a way this could be false, but it's very slim. I have
confidence they are all energizing. So as Mark said, you could activate each Pin Relay
one at a time and hit the last set of rollerovers twice. The first time will energize the 1st
Shot Relay, and the 2nd time will activate the 2nd Shot Relay. Then see if the amount of
pins that went up scores that amount of points. With a small screwdriver, you can also
manually activate the Pin Relays (in the Relay Bank) to place them in the energize position..
To be truthful, all the wiper boards should be cleaned and lubed but especially the Score
Motor's Wiper Board (and actually the Flash Motor's also). The Score Motor's is a little pain
(as is a couple of the steppers) because it has a double Wiper Board. But not only the Wiper
Board's contacts should be cleaned, the contacts on the wiper should be inspected. I have
to think there's a good chance the machine wasn't properly service in some time. I got in
bowlers (actually Chicago Coin goose neck bowlers) where the wiper's contacts were worn
right off of the wiper blade. The blade was partly worn also. I was surprise when you said
that it was working properly before that guy stuck his hands in there. Not sure what he
could have done to create the problems the machine is having unless he messed around with
the Score Motor's wiper blade. The Strike/Spare Advance Relay circuitry also goes through
the Score Motor's wiper board. I can't remember if it is the inside or outside board, but I'd
also check the contacts in the Strike/Spare Advance Relay.
From the 3 Goose Neck bowlers I still have, Top Hat is one of them. Chances are slim, but
by any chance are you on the East Coast? I'm in Upstate N.Y.

This is what many (along with myself) recommend. On the small wiper boards, which are
on some score reels, I like applying only a film of Remmington Gun Oil which contains teflon..
When apart, I wouldn't mind seeing a pic of the wipers' (there's two on the Score Motor)
rivets..

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Since the early 90s, no problems, and I had/have ball bowlers out on location that got played a ton.
Tomorrow I'll do what I normally do on a piece of board and put a lighter to it. I'll post the results..

There's many different ways, but what I do is put a solvent (I use carb choke cleaner) on a piece
of scotch brite and rub the wiper board. (Of course after the wiper is off). Then right after, I wipe off
with a piece of paper towel. One things for sure, you never want to use steel wool.

I had a few minutes, so I gave it the test. This was holding a lighter on each trial for 10 seconds.
1. Lube with a film of Remington Gun Oil - didn't ignite. 2. Lube alone - didn't ignite. 3. Remington
Gun Oil alone - didn't ignite. One of the times the edge of the piece of board started to slightly ignite.
Maybe I'll try it on a piece of metal and hold the lighter for 30 seconds, but I pretty sure I'll get the
same results..
Back when, I had to replace many Score Motor wiper's rivets. To this day, they show very little if any wear..

Yes, that one blade's rivet looks quite worn, but should be okay.
Did you first clean the wiper boards before lubing? I spray a solution
on a piece of Scotch Brite to clean. It looks like the wiper boards have
quite a bit of lube, but it should be okay..
If some of the pin relays in the Relay Bank seem not to be energizing,
it could be a close switch (when the pin relay is not in the energized
position) in that relay. If you run your hand over the rollovers in the strike
zone (without hitting any of the rear rollovers), all pin relays should be in
the energized position. Which ever aren't, I'd check the closed switches in
that relay(s)..

If you use this lube, you should be okay for a long time. I actually put a light film of Remmington Gun
Oil over the lube..
I've repaired the wiper rivets different ways, but the last one I did, all the rivets had to
be replaced, so I trimmed the tip off of each blade, and epoxied a blade with a good rivet
to the original blade. I then spot soldered the end of the blade so they had good conductivity
with each other. In the passed, I filed the backside of the rivet and replaced it with a new rivet,
but now my new rivet supply is low. There's probably rivets still available someplace, and if you
can get a variety of rivets, you may want to take that route. Many years ago I got mine from Wico.
I'm not even sure if they're still around. Perhaps Pinball Resource may have rivets..
btw: I spot soldered the blades on the other side. I had a pic of that. Must have gotten deleted..

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