I just got a 1968 williams lady luck em machine, everything seems to work on the machine except that it will not move the 3rd scoring reel, after you get 99pts it just starts a 00 again, thought it was the reel maybe but on 2 player the 3rd reel does not work either. Any ideas? (this em stuff is crazy!)

2nd question (see pics)

What is this paper in pic 1 telling me? It looks like it is talking about the thing in pic 2 but I have no idea what it means, very confusing. thought this might be related to above issue but I tried plugging these pins in every combination and it did not seem to change anything.

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Thanks for the replies, starting to learn a little bit about the switches and relays. I checked and the 100 reel does not work in 2nd player either?? Looked at the nine and zero switches and compared them to 1st reel and they work the same, looks like 100 relay on bottom gets stuck closed when it's activated so I think that might be the issue but no idea how to fix. Worst thing is after checking that and taking playfield out and just looking at things and putting it back in, game now does not advance to 2nd ball... Looks like I am going to just file and go through all the switches.

How do I know if a switch is supposed to be closed or open? Can I get a schematic from somewhere? I googled but did not find one.

Thanks!!!

Ok so I found the 100pt relay and it never activates when reels go to 100. Reels look good, I checked the 2nd Player one and they look the same. If I try to activate the 100pt relay manually with machine on it gets stuck closed and is hard to release. What does this mean? Do I have a bad coil? What is my next step? Thanks for the help!

Thanks for the reply. I tried what you suggested but did not see anything wrong, the colored wire from the coil goes to a switch on that relay and then off to somewhere else which is impossible to trace. This might be a clue though, that 100pt relay is the only relay that is warm, even when game is off (but plugged in)

Nope have not found schematics yet, this thing is turning into a nightmare, now the 2nd player 1st and 2nd reels will not reset, it trys to but its like the stepper solenoid is not getting enough power, I can feel it trying to advance to 0 and there is a blue spark coming from a switch on the game reset relay so I am assuming this is the switch for the reel, tried cleaning but still not working---just took a 2min break from typing this reply to put the game back together and give it one more try and now player 1 reel 1 will not go to 0.....AHHHH!!!

To Top it off now the game never advances, stuck on ball one...but if you play long enough it will switch to ball number 2...so crazy. Looks like I need to do some more reading on em machines, maybe find someone local that can come by and help.... so frustrated right now...

Could this just be the switches? I cleaned them and now it seems like it messed up more stuff...

Thanks
T

I will give the solenoids a look here in a bit, I think it might be the switches though because that is really the only thing I have touched, just need a break and then I will take another look. Live in southeast michigan, is that close????....haha

bummer!! so I got all of the reels reseting except one...it was just the switches that needed to be closer together, not sure whats up with the one, the reel does work with points so I dont know... also some how I managed to get the 100 reel working on the 2nd player, still not working on 1st player and ball still does not advance like it should, seems to be like every 3 balls it will advance, totally random. I was trying to trace wires and see what exactly triggers the next ball but could not figure it out.. Hoping to find a schematic soon. Also seems like none of the winner lights, replay, play again work.

Wow this em stuff is fun....at least I made some progress today...I think.

holy cow I think I am making some progress. looked at the ball reset unit and one of the switches appeared to always be closed when I stepped it, so I adjusted it to open at first position and then when it steps it closes....balls count is working correctly and 1st player 100 reel is working!!! Still need to figure out why the one (10pt 2nd player) reel will not reset and need to figure out the replay, winner, play again stuff.

Should be easier now that I know how many points I have and the ball count is working! thanks for all your help!!!

Well after messing with this and not getting it to work fully I deceided to call in a professional to get me up and running. So the pinball expert shows up and adjusts my switches and gets all the reels and everything working except it still wont do anything on a 21, it still acts like the dealer beats you, he finds a wire connected to the replay on 21 switch that is not on the schematic so he disconnects it and puts in right spot then goes to turn on game and it blows a fuse....crap! so he puts wire back and it still blows a fuse! so I walk away to let him figure it out and 2 hours later he tells me that he can't figure it out and sorry but he is finished, "he has spent 3 hours on the machine and can't fix it."

He tells me that it is just coincidence that the game is shorting out now and has nothing to do with anything he did. He also tells me that it is something on the playfield that is blowing the fuse and shows me how to test.

Guy was very nice and I have no reason to doubt him but the more I think about it the more pissed I get. I had a working machine that just needed some adjustment and now it wont even turn on!!! Worst thing is that this guy is suppose to be the expert! He even has a very detailed website telling you how to fix em pinballs!!! and check for shorts!! I am not trying to bash this guy he was very nice but I work with computers and could never imagine working on a clients computer and then leaving them with a none working machine...

Shouldn't the cause of a short be a fairly straight forward thing for a professional to figure out with a schematic and multimeter?

Rant over...(for now)

I think I should be able to find the short by disconnecting blackwire and working my way back and see what is shorting out. Hopfully get some time this weekend to work on..

So pissed!

Still have some hair, but I have almost chucked the soldering iron a couple times...haha

Thanks for the support

need some help with some logic here, maybe typing it out will help me.

So I have a black wire and a blue-yel-white wire that seem to be the problem. They are on the bottom board and playfield but only blow a fuse when playfield is plugged in. I think both of these wires are power by looking at schematic (not to good at reading the schematic)

these 2 wires run from the female connector on bottom to the fuse block on bottom. blue-yel-whit connects to one side of a 10amp fuse and the black goes to one side of a different 15amp fuse. Game will not blow a fuse when playfield is not plugged in.

on playfield the wires are the same color and connect via the male connector from playfield to the female connector on bottom, these wires both run directly to the "game over relay" on the playfield and they are both on the same closed switch. so as soon as the game is turned these are connected together via the closed switch and boom fuse blown.....

not really sure where to go from here...seems to me like the wiring is not correct but having a hard time reading this schematic...any thoughts?

Thanks
T

just found on schematic that blu-yel-wh and black are suppose to be on a normally closed switch on "game over relay" so I am thinking that problem has to be between female connector on bottom and fuse block on bottom...

oh and I found a little blue jumper about an inch long with laying on bottom....hmm could this jumper go somewhere and fix.....this is fun....

I will get the schematic scanned and upload it

Fuse blows once you hit the left flipper button or power button. Fuse only blows when play field is plugged in. I am going to make a little YouTube video tomorrow explaining it. Thanks !!

going up to copy store shortly to get a digital copied made. lets see if this helps the confusion. with all wires hooked up once you hit the left flipper button or red power button the 24volt fuse will blow. to troubleshoot I have disconnected the black and blu-yel-white from the game over relay on playfield (closed switch)

I was also able to trace these wires back to where they plug into the bottom board. So I took a jumper wire and jumped the 2 together via the female connector on bottom to rule out the playfield as being the issue.

So it looks like these 2 wires start at the fuse block (black is on one side of the 24volt and blue-yel-whi is on opposite side of 120volt fuse) and work there way up to the female connector that the playfield plugs into. looks like I will need to work my way back.

Going out of town for 10 days tonight so it might be a couple days before I am able to test again. will post schematic shortly...

THANKS!!!! so much for all the replies!!

T

Here is the schematic

ok was wrong above about blue-yel-white wire, it does not go to the 120volt fuse. it goes from the female connector on bottom to a closed switch on the reset relay, the other side of this switch is a red wire that goes to the coils and diasy chains to other coils.

so basically the blue-yel-wire goes from reset relay to game over relay and the black wire goes from game over relay to one side of 24 volt fuse. once these wires meet at the game over relay it blows fuse, hopefully someone can look at schematic and help. Thanks

Thanks guys I will look at this when I get back in the town July 1st. Is there somewhere I should put that schematic so other people can find it if they need it?

been awhile but I am finally back to working on this, moved the pinball machine inside so its warmer! Trying to read this schematic is like chinese and I thought I was technical.. I really think the short is coming from the missing blue jumper that I found on the bottom of the machine, I see other blue jumbers on relays.

Question where on that schematic that I uploaded does it show where jumpers are or go ? this might be crazy thinking but the jumpers are plastic coated wires not like the other wires in the em game?? is this normal or did someone add jumpers for some reason??

They look like wire you would buy today, plastic coated, I uploaded a pic of one. (the more I think about I don't think they were added since there are a lot of them). Its just that I have looked at everything and nothing is shorting out. (wires touching, solder, etc) so I am thinking that this jumper wire that I found on the bottom was jumping something on the "game over" relay or another relay on the play field which without it is causing it to short...does that make sense? Just cant figure out on the schematic where I would find out where jumpers are connected.

I did just find that the game immediately blows the 24 volt fuse when turned on with play field plugged in, If I disconnect the 2 black wires that attach to the game over relay, the fuse will not blow and lights on play field will light up. Does that tell me anything?

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bump . can anyone help?

I am going to start a new post with all my findings, this one is old and has other stuff not needed in it